went to the local swap meet sun. walked through the show, and almost ready to go, i see a 4 gauge a piller pod for a 3rd gen. next to it, a set of 1 3/4 slp stainless headers and y-pipe for sale. guy asking 75$ i ask him if he'll take 60$ and he says yes. woohooo! i was so excited i didnt even look to see what else he had. i dont know if this is the proper forum, i just wanted to share the good word. happy swap meeting.

 

You bastard! Stainless SLPs for $60!!

 

Lucky son of a gun. I'm keepin' my eyes peeled but haven't been too lucky yet. Swap meet season is kickin' into full gear soon so maybe I'll get lucky once or twice this year.

 

Lucky, post pics man.

 

nice! better than the $7-800 I paid. congrats!

 

heres a couple pics. i dont know what the p# is, but they dont appear to have been coated. even for that matter im assuming there 1 3/4. maybe someone else has the dl. i have another set of headers, but its obvious how much more material these beauties have.

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Those things are beautiful! I need to start going to swap meets.
You know, good thing you talked him down! $75 would be a total rip of

Just noticed, there is no a.i.r tubes. I thought SLP were one of the few to be totally emissions legal, i.e. "Street Legal Performance"??

 

I think there is a choice. My 1 3/4 SLP's have the air tubes. I do regret not having them jet coated though.

 

Rusty stainless???? Still a hell of a find @ that price!!!

 

Well, he could have any powdercoat shop sandblast them, and do a quick hi-temp coating for cheap enough.

 

Actually, once they are on, all it takes is to get them hot then wipe them down with a ATF coated rag and they will keep a clean natural finish.

 

A misnomer. More technically correct is "corrosion resistant steel", or CRES.

SLP was ceramic coating them in the later days. The benefits go beyond corrosion protection.

 

corrostion resistant steel...what is that?, tool steel or something. good advice with the oily wet rag, i dont know if i should jet hot em or not. but i like the natural idea.

 

Personally, if those were mine, I wouldnt worry about it. Yeah they have a little surface rust, but its not like they are rotting through or anything. You cant expect them to stay gray steel forever, they do see huge temperature fluxuations.

I think leaving them a little rusty like that keeps them stealth. If you pop the hood, the un-trained eye might not notice anything special.

Mr Brook, good call on the ATF. My buddy said when he worked at Boyd's hot rod shop, they would wipe all the uncoated chassis and parts with ATF untill they were ready for paint, then they would just have to degrease really well. But it keeps stuff natural looking, that otherwise would have surface-rusted overnight.

 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stainless_steel

Can't say I'm all that excited about it.

Ever heard of WD-40? Know what the "WD" stands for?

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/WD-40

It's still used on CRES rocket tanks. By the drum. Applied with rag mops. (Ask me how I know.)

 

Dont ask me how it works. It just does. Thats what the guy who built our first custom set told us to do. Smokes like hell the next time you crank it. but that quickly fades. When they start to look a lil off just do it again. They need to be good and hot when you apply it, like ware a welding glove or somthing kinda hot. Have you ever seen a rusty header on a T/F or T/A rail or funny car?? They stay oily from round maint which keeps them lookin good

 

What about if you get the headers in black paint? Like non stainless.

 

Black paint = shipping paint. Intended to keep them from rusting until you get them installed on your car. After you start it up, the paint will burn off.

You can use high temp paint on headers, but you need to remove all of the shipping paint first.

Ceramic coating is really the way to go. Only down-side is up-front cost.

Smoking exhaust from burning off ATF isn't my idea of effective corrosion protection. Other thoughts do come to mind, though. . .