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Old Aug 4, 2008 | 08:05 PM
  #1  
anesthes's Avatar
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From: SALEM, NH
Car: '88 Formula
Engine: LC9
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.89 9"
ceramic coating

Have any of you guys ever done a before and after with infrared to determine if the coated headers actually put less heat into the engine bay?

I need new headers and I'm not sure of coughing up an extra $250 is worth it for the coating. On my last couple of engines my engine bay got pretty hot with the coated headers.

Any real data other than gospel?

-- Joe
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Old Aug 4, 2008 | 10:19 PM
  #2  
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From: Virginia
Car: 1992 Firebird
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Re: ceramic coating

If you dont want to pay the extra 250$, they sell like a paint kind of thing at a lot of auto stores, my friend did it to his little eclipse's header.
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Old Aug 4, 2008 | 11:43 PM
  #3  
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Re: ceramic coating

I'm sure this isn't much help. But with stock manifolds, 45 minutes after the car was shut off, you still couldn't touch them they were so hot. With my coated 2055's, I can wrap my hand around them after sitting only 15 minutes.
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Old Aug 5, 2008 | 04:02 AM
  #4  
z 28 jari's Avatar
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Re: ceramic coating

I did.Stock cast iron manifolds were ~370c after 10km drive.Coated SLP tri-y's were ~170c after 15km drive.
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Old Aug 5, 2008 | 05:07 AM
  #5  
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From: SALEM, NH
Car: '88 Formula
Engine: LC9
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.89 9"
Re: ceramic coating

Originally Posted by IROCThe5.7L
I'm sure this isn't much help. But with stock manifolds, 45 minutes after the car was shut off, you still couldn't touch them they were so hot. With my coated 2055's, I can wrap my hand around them after sitting only 15 minutes.
I think that is more of a cast iron vs tubular thing. I have err had until last night stainless and you could touch them after about 10 minutes.

I'm really curious if someone has any data either way with the ceramic vs not.

-- Joe
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Old Aug 5, 2008 | 09:44 AM
  #6  
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From: Tucson, AZ
Car: 1991 Z-28
Engine: Can you say stroke?!?!
Transmission: 700-r4
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Re: ceramic coating

I can tell you that for a fact it is worth the cost with heat related issues. Now granted my data is not from a thrid gen but is definately valid. I live in AZ and everything here runs hot, including my quad. After riding my quad for an hour or so my right leg would be on fire! Now this was also with the stock jetting so I was not running lean or anything like that. After swapping out my ceramic coated header, I can say that the temps dropped at least 100degrees...easily. I can now ride all day long without having my leg suffer from heat related hair removal.

And, as stated earlier, with the stock configuration my exhaust would remain hot for a long time. With the new header it is cool to the touch within minutes. Hope that helps you out!
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Old Aug 5, 2008 | 10:34 AM
  #7  
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From: SALEM, NH
Car: '88 Formula
Engine: LC9
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.89 9"
Re: ceramic coating

Originally Posted by CraZ-28
I can tell you that for a fact it is worth the cost with heat related issues. Now granted my data is not from a thrid gen but is definately valid. I live in AZ and everything here runs hot, including my quad. After riding my quad for an hour or so my right leg would be on fire! Now this was also with the stock jetting so I was not running lean or anything like that. After swapping out my ceramic coated header, I can say that the temps dropped at least 100degrees...easily. I can now ride all day long without having my leg suffer from heat related hair removal.

And, as stated earlier, with the stock configuration my exhaust would remain hot for a long time. With the new header it is cool to the touch within minutes. Hope that helps you out!
Do you have any actual data though? A lot of people feel a lot of things, when in reality it's their brain psychologically gratifying them self.

I'm really looking for a before and after temp. I can't seem to find anything.

-- Joe
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Old Aug 5, 2008 | 11:14 AM
  #8  
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Engine: 355 TPI siamesed runners
Transmission: Tremec T56
Axle/Gears: 12-Bolt 3.73
Re: ceramic coating

I have an infrared thermometer, and on one friend's car with regular headers, the temps are in the 500-600 degree range. On mine and my dad's car with coated headers, they are in the 300-400 degree range. This is measured within four inches of the exhaust port at the head. By the time you get to the merge collector, the temps are down in the 200 degree range or less.

Coated headers are DEFINITELY worth the extra expense, both for lower temps, longevity, and looks.
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Old Aug 5, 2008 | 11:16 AM
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From: SALEM, NH
Car: '88 Formula
Engine: LC9
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.89 9"
Re: ceramic coating

Originally Posted by Kevin91Z
I have an infrared thermometer, and on one friend's car with regular headers, the temps are in the 500-600 degree range. On mine and my dad's car with coated headers, they are in the 300-400 degree range. This is measured within four inches of the exhaust port at the head. By the time you get to the merge collector, the temps are down in the 200 degree range or less.

Coated headers are DEFINITELY worth the extra expense, both for lower temps, longevity, and looks.
Hi Kevin,

Thank you for the response.

On a supercharged application that sees a lot of exhaust heat, what is your feeling on coating longevity? A lot of blown applications see EGT's upwards of 1800 degrees.. ?

-- Joe
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Old Aug 5, 2008 | 11:18 AM
  #10  
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From: Bedford Tx
Car: 1991 Z28 1LE
Engine: 370CID GenIII
Transmission: 4l60e
Axle/Gears: 4.33 Moser 9inch
Re: ceramic coating

plus u want the header to hold in the heat to help exhaust gasses flow better...the hot headers keep the exhuast gasses hot and flowing easier so another advantage of the ceramic headers....
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Old Aug 5, 2008 | 11:33 AM
  #11  
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From: SALEM, NH
Car: '88 Formula
Engine: LC9
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.89 9"
Re: ceramic coating

Originally Posted by igotta355z28
plus u want the header to hold in the heat to help exhaust gasses flow better...the hot headers keep the exhuast gasses hot and flowing easier so another advantage of the ceramic headers....
I'm just finding it hard to pay $680 for headers, then another $30 for reducers, etc.

-- Joe
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Old Aug 5, 2008 | 11:44 AM
  #12  
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From: Bedford Tx
Car: 1991 Z28 1LE
Engine: 370CID GenIII
Transmission: 4l60e
Axle/Gears: 4.33 Moser 9inch
Re: ceramic coating

yeah well u could go the cheaper route with header wrap but they will eventually rot and u will have to replace them...just dont think about it save up and get it. u get the best performance and good looks all toghether....sucks that its so expensive but unless you can find some good used ones u wont get a better performing header for less...
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Old Aug 5, 2008 | 12:38 PM
  #13  
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Car: 1991 Z28 Camaro
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Re: ceramic coating

By the way, with regard to the header wrap- I read an article recently that documented an actual loss of material from the headers with the wrap. It seems that the wrap, while keeping the heat in the pipe, actually raises the temperature of the tubing itself beyond what it is designed for, causing the header to break down molecularly and to be expelled through the tailpipe! Something like a 10-25% loss by weight over the period of the test!
So it appears that the old 'wrap gets wet and headers rust out' is the wrong side of the pipe! The breakdown is on the INSIDE...
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Old Aug 5, 2008 | 12:42 PM
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Transmission: Tremec T56
Axle/Gears: 12-Bolt 3.73
Re: ceramic coating

Originally Posted by anesthes
On a supercharged application that sees a lot of exhaust heat, what is your feeling on coating longevity? A lot of blown applications see EGT's upwards of 1800 degrees.. ?

I'm just finding it hard to pay $680 for headers, then another $30 for reducers, etc.

-- Joe
Check with the coating company. Most say their coatings are good for 1500+ degrees. Since you're supercharged and will see the temps that high, I would definitely spend the money. Your headers will last much longer that way. You have to spend money to make horsepower.
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Old Aug 5, 2008 | 12:42 PM
  #15  
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From: Bedford Tx
Car: 1991 Z28 1LE
Engine: 370CID GenIII
Transmission: 4l60e
Axle/Gears: 4.33 Moser 9inch
Re: ceramic coating

Originally Posted by micktroup
By the way, with regard to the header wrap- I read an article recently that documented an actual loss of material from the headers with the wrap. It seems that the wrap, while keeping the heat in the pipe, actually raises the temperature of the tubing itself beyond what it is designed for, causing the header to break down molecularly and to be expelled through the tailpipe! Something like a 10-25% loss by weight over the period of the test!
So it appears that the old 'wrap gets wet and headers rust out' is the wrong side of the pipe! The breakdown is on the INSIDE...
cool cool, yeah end result is the same bye bye headers so thanks for the lil tidbit of knowledge
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Old Aug 5, 2008 | 12:54 PM
  #16  
anesthes's Avatar
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From: SALEM, NH
Car: '88 Formula
Engine: LC9
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.89 9"
Re: ceramic coating

Originally Posted by Kevin91Z
Check with the coating company. Most say their coatings are good for 1500+ degrees. Since you're supercharged and will see the temps that high, I would definitely spend the money. Your headers will last much longer that way. You have to spend money to make horsepower.
I spoke with Jethot. They said the sterling coatings are good to around 1700, but if I see EGT's beyond that I need the 2k coating. They said the 2k coating however doesn't cut down the underhood temps as much as the sterling.

Hooker said their own coating is ONLY on the outside, and is only for cosmetics and it will flake off at those temperatures.

I dropped a line with Chris Eckard to see if he can do something for me. Maybe I'll send him a set of bare headers and have him coat them if he can guarantee <2000f operation.

-- Joe
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