I want to run longtubes on my tpi motor. How do you wire up a heated o2 sensor? Is it just a ground, 12v keyed, and the sensor wire? Also, are they all the same or is there a certain part number i should look for? Computer is '91 model speed density. I was thinking of using o2 sensors for a 5.0 mustang. Will they work?

 

The ones for a 90-95 Corvette ZR1 are the most popular.

There are two same-colored wires and one wire that is different. The one wire by itself is your signal wire. The other two same-color wires go to ground and ignition power. It doesnt matter which ones.

 

I'm wondering if a heated O2 sensor might help my idle surging problem. Does anyone know what the symptoms are when you need a heated O2? What does it do or not do?

Thanks

TA

 

I just recently read in an exhaust/header thread, that 'one' should use a heated O2 Sensor when using aftermarket headers. Is this true? I am about to be buying my O2 for my Hooker 2055's

As stated above, someone post why you would need a heated O2. Thanks

Also what brands; AC Delco, Bosch, NTK etc...

 

A long tube header will lose more heat than a stock manifold, and more importantly, puts the o2 sensor farther back in the exhaust stream. Sometimes this will make a one wire o2 sensor have a inaccurate reading, as they need to be a certain temp to work right. I'll be running longtubes and no cats, which is why i'll probally go ahead and use a heated o2 sensor. And thanks kevin91z for the info.

 

my o2 sensor was up close to the heads on the hooker 2055, so i use the stock sensor. its a two part issue. one is making it work but the other is having it transmit information to the computer.
are you saying your sensor goes at the end of the header?
if you have headers and you want to redirect the heat, get them jetcoated. it holds the temp inside and lets less of it escape.
use the stock system, after all gm spent millions to develope it. why reinvent the wheel?

 

i use 2055's and the sensor is very close so i dont think you will need a heated one.

 

Cuz i want my wheel to go faster!

 

You probably wouldnt be able to notice it while you're just driving around, but when you hook up a scan tool, you'll notice the engine will not go into closed loop at idle. The exhaust isnt hot enough at idle to give the O2 sensor an accurate reading. Unless your open loop fuel tables are spot on perfect, you'll use more gasoline when in open loop, and the engine might run a bit rougher.

Most of the time when you switch to headers, you should get a heated O2 sensor, too. I've had good luck with AC Delco sensors.

 

Does this include the hooker headers part# 2055, as stated above the O2 bung is close so should I still go with a heated O2 anyway?

 

I have the hooker 2460 or something like that I ran it with a one wire sensor for a while then I got a WB zietronix ZT-2 the NB sensor was off considerably.
I have a 99 and a 98 jimmy and I used the heated sensors off that it was a 4 wire sensor

one goes to ECM
one goes to 12v for heater
one goes to grond for heater
one is the sensor ground

I liked using the heated o2 so much I stopped using the WB and put it in the box. MHO would be just get a Heated one while installing headers so there is less problems in the future

 

Its always recommended to get a heated O2 sensor and wire it in when you install headers. You dont have to, but its recommended.

 

i have a ford o2 sensor in mine , and i am using stock manifolds