theimpaler68

iTrader: (1)

i just pulled the dipstick out for the install then put it back in. didnt bother trying to bolt it to anything the mounting tab was broken off during engine swap in september. i would have to use a mounting strap to do anything. it fit in just fine though. doesnt move around. thanks scooter it really wasnt that much of a pain just the double install on the pass side. sounds nice and feels good going down the road. doesnt appear to be leaking anywhere. i really really really want my magnaflow cat back NOW though. stupid back order! site is showing 3/30 for arrival date that sucks good luck to everyone else. 89roc-z i didnt check bolt size. i ordered stage 8 locking bolts for a small block chevy.

Aarons92Maro

Will these headers work on a 92 RS with a 305 TBI??? It says it's only up to the '90 model year, but they didn't change the LO3 engine from '87 to '92!!! What headers do most people use for L03's?

89ROC-Z

iTrader: (7)

If you have a single cat I would assume they will bolt on with no problems. They only say to 90 because those cars could have dual cats.

scooter500

iTrader: (1)

I found source for 1/4 inch female to female flex airless extensions in various lengths that look promising (28" & a 5' length). I have a 9 " flex one already, so will see how it does attached to my Wagner Power Paint gun with a stain tip; will be testing using a watered down water base paint as the header coatings advertise thier products are very thin. If it's shooting a mist concentrated in a 5 to 6" area then I think this shoud work well as a good home applicator option.

trents92rs

i used the aluminum metal gaskets for mine since header bolts have a tendency to to loosen up slightly and cause a exhaust leak (and cook the paper gasket no fun to replace)if not checked reg. the brand is percys seal for good. sold at most auto zones and usually the same price as online. summit's part no. PHP-66011

Aarons92Maro

How much does a full setup with installation run? With all the parts needed for the headers to work?

theimpaler68

iTrader: (1)

i got mine uncoated for $469 comes with bolts and gaskets and ypipe. i also got a new cat since factory one is welded on and a 3" exhaust clamp. locking header bolts are a must and everyone swears that you should get new gaskets too. but hooker does provide you with theirs. aluminum metal ones are better. i used hookers for now because i am unsure about next mod and i may pull headers off again in the future so ill do better gaskets then.

86transam383

only problem i have with the headers is the fact i didnt buy them ceramic coated.. and the fact i didnt cut off and weld in the air tube holes.. after 5 months of hard daily driving.. they rusted and 2 of the 4 tubes that attach to the header broke. haha

86transam383

oooonly difference is i think either the collector size or the primary size.

theimpaler68

iTrader: (1)

my magnaflow cat back will be here tuesday. so either next thursday or saturday that will go in and exhaust will be complete!

so then entire system will have been replaced

89ROC-Z

iTrader: (7)

Thats great! I think i'm cutting the flange off of the cat bend on the cat back and expanding my test pipe to 3" ID to slipp over the cat back bend. No one around here can make the ball end for the flange on the cat back. I need a flange like what this has. http://www.macperformance.com/store/...Product_ID=453

theimpaler68

iTrader: (1)

you are gonna have to. or else cut the flange off the cat and weld it to your test pipe so that you can still "bolt" it in. for me it was just easier to keep the cat. if i ever get rid of it $74 isnt bad for the mac one. my new magnaflow cat is great though.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

I don't know about "most people", but these are your best off-the-shelf choice.

They are made to bolt into the '86-'90 TPI single cat application cars. They will fit your engine and chassis just fine, but your existing cat will be too small, and the A.I.R. system hook-up is different. Easy to work around; get an '86-'90 TPI single cat application direct-fit cat and same application cat back, and you'll be in exhaust flow heaven.

If you're paying someone to install them, figure on another $300-$600.

Aarons92Maro

So... I have a problem... I already have a cat back... just put it on. Do I really need to switch just for headers? I really hope I can get some power out of this... if I spend $1,000 on this setup and get like 5hp, I'm going to be really mad.

theimpaler68

iTrader: (1)

headers free up power not create power. if your cat back is in stock location and 3" then the y pipe with this setup should bolt right to your cat. install it yourself you will feel better about it in the long run

89ROC-Z

iTrader: (7)

Should be getting mine on this week if i can get them painted soon. Im using VHT silver and doing the whole curing process in a junk oven i got. I also ordered Percys Seal-4-Good (dead soft) gaskets, Stage 8 locking bolts, and the Accel 0276S plugs. Can't wait to get them on!!

kkingsrulee

I've got a '90 305 TBI, and while reading through this thread I've come up with two possible problems with the install if I did it on my car.
My stock cat, according to what you guys have said, will not fit with the 2055 set up? So I'll have to buy a new one correct?

and I'm not really understanding what you guys are saying about the AIR set up, I read that five7kid said something about the AIR injection tubes on the headers not being the same as the TPI, and then I saw something about welding holes and whatnot, so can someone tell me if the AIR injection will bolt right back in? What needs to be done? Just some clarification please.

theimpaler68

iTrader: (1)

1) your stock cat is probably welded to the y pipe. new one if you dont plan on cutting it out and rewelding it back in. and is your stock cat 3"?
2) what five7kid was saying was that the headers come with air tubes welded to them. i believe that one side is pointing the opposite dirretion than what it needs to be facing to use it the way it is.
3) i think some one said that theirs was right so that might depend on years.
4) some one else needs to add the correct placement of tubing since i dont use air all my stuff is gone. i just put caps over the ends

kkingsrulee

is this good enough for a replacement of mine? I don't know if my stock converter is 3', it's a stock '90 305 TBI,

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

kkingsrulee

So what needs to be done if the AIR tubes are pointing the other direction? Should I just disconnect the AIR system then? What are my possible options?

kkingsrulee

I just read the "can i run my engine without AIR" thread and I want to ask a question here about it instead of waking up a sleeping giant on that thread. So If I want to remove the AIR system I just disconnect those hoses, and take out that little black box correct? What else needs to be done in the event that I do remove it?

Thanks alot for all the advice guys, it's priceless

theimpaler68

iTrader: (1)

if you get the magnaflow cat then you will need 3" inlet and outlet for the 2055's to hook up to it.

on my air system. i have all the hoses and little black box and smog pump taken off. dont get a smog delete pulley because you would only need a shorter belt. look in the tech articles for smog pump removal for the instructions and right belt #. i used either 968k6 or 967k6 works great. the two harnesses that go to the black box i just tucked away.

btw are you replacing cat back on the exhaust as well? just curious. i just finished entire exhaust this morning. headers y pipe and cat last saturday. cat back this morning

you being in cali you may have to keep the air stuff. and i think you may need a special cat ask dyno don or kevin91z the moderator. they are father and son. they live in cali

kkingsrulee

So what you're saying is the magnaflow cat has to have a 3" inlet and outlet in order to bolt up to the y-pipe that comes with the 2055's correct? And since the one i linked right here says 2.50 it is incompatible correct?

As for the AIR, So I need to remove the smog pump too correct? I am a little bit confused as to what you mean about the belts here in this situation, don't get the delete pulley because I will need a shorter belt? But then you said to look up the belt number, so I will need a new belt regardless? and in a size other than the stock size?

Well I'm trying to keep it as low budget as possible, currently on my car I have the cat and then a single pipe running to the back of the car, that's it, no muffler or anything

theimpaler68

iTrader: (1)

first set of ?'s:yes and yes

you should have a serpentine set up being a 90.
the factory size is 980k6 with all the original options. you take out the smog pump and then just get a shorter belt instead of a delete pulley

shorter belt $15 or keep belt and spend $75-$80 on delete pulley

kkingsrulee

Ahh, alright, I thought you were suggesting that I needed some special adapter or some crap for the magnaflow, alright, so I'll just get a 3" one then, and if I take out the AIR I should get a cat without the AIR connection right?

oh okay, Alright, nice man, that sounds good, So there is a specific belt I can buy that just routes out the smog pulley/delete/hole that it used to be then.

As for the catback, I've heard the infamous "without back pressure your car can't perform as well" speech that suggests that without a muffler or some sort of back pressure then my car won't be as powerful, and that's all I'm really concerned about, I just don't want to have to spend a big amount of money on something that I don't really have to. Because the sound is great on my car right now with everything stock, with my pipe just coming from the cat and ending in the back of the car with no muffler.

theimpaler68

iTrader: (1)

i got the direct fit cat for a 3" system. it says no air on it but the little piece of tube is there BUT it is capped off when you get it. i just left that capped too.

kkingsrulee

And if I do remove the AIR I should just cap the metal AIR tubes off that come on the 2055's?


Does anyone know how much shipping would be on the headers? 50? 100?
I'm trying to work out a price list, the headers are probably like 500 maybe with everything, probably more, plus the cat which i found for 150, so is 700 a fair estimate?

scooter500

iTrader: (1)

$700 is low if you add in angle wires, shorty plugs, wire looms, etc... unless you get a deal on the major parts. you're in luck. check out the group purchase on the 2055's and there a post by T.Chicken selling one set of new coated 2055 headers. Why did I order toooo soon? oh well, if you get them then enjoy.

kkingsrulee

Well I'm going to get the plugs and wires on a separate occasion, so I'm actually only going to be buying the cat and headers, is 700 a fair estimate for that only?

my89

I was just wondering if any of you have an idea as to how much having a y-pipe fabricated for the 2055s would run? I may buy a pair of the headers (used) but there is no y pipe, which is a good feature for the 2055s.

luvofjah

iTrader: (2)

One of the nice features of the 2055's IS the Y pipe...

Keep in mind that there are crush bent tubbing and mandrel bent tubbing... Crush bends do just that, crush the corners and create ridges / unsmooth... this would negate the effect of the headers, making them less efficient... Mandrel bent tubbing has smooth bends, no ridges, etc... The Y pipe from Hooker uses mandrel bends...

Most muffler shops do not have a mandrel bending machine, too expensive... You can buy mandrel bent tubing, but unless you do the work yourself, finding someone to fab you up a y pipe with mandrel bent tubbing, measue, cut, weld, grind, etc... It's probably cheaper to get it from Hooker with the complete set...

Raf

89ROC-Z

iTrader: (7)

Got everything off my motor, even got my A/C delete box in. FYI with the delete box, the header literally slides in without hitting a single thing! There's SO much more room on the pass side without A/C and without SMOG.

I do got a question though...When test fitting my headers i realized that the starter (i didn't need to remove it to put headers in) is REALLY close to the header collector. Should i put a shield of some sort on there? Also the fan temp switch sensor on the pass. side head will be on my primary tube, what should i do about that? The wires that go to the starter i will ziptie down in place to give enough clearance. Impaler i hope you chime in. Thanks

theimpaler68

iTrader: (1)

about the fan switch... my fans are on a toggle that is mounted in my console. i will look tomorrow while i am working some more on my beast to see if i have any better ideas. was thinking of a heat shield for the starter. dont remember how close though. will look tomorrow as well at that too. i will get back to ya tomorrow.

scooter500

iTrader: (1)

might check summit for flex starter heat wrap - easy to put on a works. your starter will and fail suffer if it doesn't have heat protection.

89ROC-Z

iTrader: (7)

Got my drivers side all put on (can't get much done an hour a day lol).

Question: Should i start the motor and let everything get warm and re-tighten the header bolts? How tight? Thanks

theimpaler68

iTrader: (1)

i drove with mine for a few days then retightened the a few more days and retightened again. just to make sure every thing was secure. tight as i could get it

thirdgen_man718

Hey I have a set of Hooker 2055s I bought brand new from jegs that I will install here shortly, but from reading this thread I will order some new alum. gaskets and header locking bolts. I have to order my exhaust and new cat 3 inch inlet/outlet. Going with the Catback exhuast from Magnaflow Model: MPE-16829, off summit. And the Catalytic Converter from Magnaflow Model: MPE-93441. I have already removed the smog from my car so thats one thing out of the way 1 question I do have is... was it really necessary to remove the A/C? Mine is still in tact and blows cold as hell, with R12. So I didnt really want to mess with that if possible. Let me know what you guys think and if you have any suggestions. The car is the one to the left under my screen name.

kkingsrulee

I don't understand why you removed the smog pump. correct me if i'm wrong but the smog pump is what performs the AIR function, and the 2055's come specifically with AIR tubes, so why didn't you just go with the 2466's that come without any AIR tube attachments if you were going to remove the smog pump, instead of you having to block off those AIR tubes on the 2055's

Thirdgen89GTA

iTrader: (5)

246x's are not the same. Much worse performing compared with the 2055s.

I just had my AIR tubes cut off, and welded over.

kkingsrulee

aah, alright, another quick question. Would it make a difference if I don't connect the AIR tube that runs from the headers to the cat? Because I've heard that part of the install is a little bit difficult, just take a precaution.

JamesC

iTrader: (5)

AC works fine with the 2055's. For those looking for a complete, direct-system, check the following: Hooker 2055's (Jeg's 520-2055). Catco high-flow converter (Summit CTO-9118). Hooker catback (Summit HOK-16823HKR).

JamesC

kkingsrulee

Do you think it would affect performance much if I ran 2055's with a cat but without a muffler, that's how I run my car right now with everything stock and it sounds great. the pipe just ends like three feet after the cat.

Thirdgen89GTA

iTrader: (5)

Ugh, Personal taste aside and state laws aside, it should run okay. However, you aren't gaining much power over a good aftermarket cat-back. Maybe 5rwhp. There have been tests that show this. Over stock sure, but some of the aftermarket cat-backs flow very well.

89ROC-Z

iTrader: (7)

Installing them with the blower box would be MUCH harder than the install went with my delete box. The rear 2 or 3 bolts would probably have to be done from the bottom.

Thirdgen89GTA

iTrader: (5)

its actually only the rear most passenger header bolt that will give you problems. Generally its reached from under the car. Can be a pain, will take a while to tighten.

thirdgen_man718

This is what I believe as well, from just searching on here and reading peoples thoughts on the headers. the 2055's are much better the 2466's and it was commonly shared and thought that way. Which is why I ordered the 2055's.

I can get under the car, thats not a problem. Thanks for the pics Helps out a lot. I was just wondering if the header would slide in without having to remove the A/C, then put it back in and such. What did you ever do about that Fan switch? I also like the coating you did on the headers looks good. Another thing I was wanting to ask was, the catalytic converter I was looking to order does have a 3inch inlet/outlet But the inlet/outlet attachment says "Stock Flange". I was just wondering because some people were saying they had to cut the old flange off there old Y pipe and weld it on to the new one. So the Y pipe on the 2055's will bolt right in to the cat? or does it need a splicer? Thanks again all!

thirdgen_man718

I looked at that and was tempted to order it a long time ago. But I waited for the Magnaflows bolt on exhaust system, made exactly for our cars. Which came out last year, but my expenses were tight at the time. One of the main reasons I choose it over the hooker is because of the stainless steel complete system.

89ROC-Z

iTrader: (7)

No problem.

I know with the a/c box in place, i really had to wedge/manuver the header in place. With the delete box it literally slid right in.

What fan switch are you referring to? If your talking about the blower (ac/heat) i cut the relay mount in half, painted, then used double stick tape to adhear it to the box (in the first pic i put it between the resistor thing and the silver hose adapter).
If your talking about the coolant temp sensor i left it alone, car goes to 220* fan turns on, cools down to 210* or so. I do need to hook both fans together so when it hits 220* they BOTH turn on.

Coating was VHT, i cured them on the car.

I do not know about the cats. The hooker Y is 3" O.D. so i had my cut-out expanded to 3" id to slip over the Y. Hope this helps

thirdgen_man718

I was talking about the fan coolant switch, but that wasnt a problem for ya so nvm . I noticed you ordered some new spark plugs and wires? I read on here that 90 deg boots are a must for headers. I checked mine and they are the 8.5 mm MSD Super Conductor Wires and they are the straight boots. I just put those on a couple months ago with the Bosh platinum 3 plugs. But if its necessary to prevent burn dmg or other injury ill replace them. Just purchased exhaust and cat today so im on my way, itll be nice not to smell fumes while driving around and have a hell of a sound on the car. Thanks!

MiScHiEf

I'm planning on getting these as well.

For the cat I'm using ( http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku ) nice and cheap, and is slip fit on both ends, i suppose that's good, it has air which I'll still be using.

I already have a 3" flowmaster exhaust, currently I have a straight 3" pipe in place for the cat, which is going to crap because it was welded horribly.

Also, someone said one of the air pipes on the 2055's is backwards? will I still be able to get this to work fine with Air?

My local exhaust job quoted $300 for install, so I'd rather try and do it myself with the help of a mechanic friend.

I have ACCEL Extreme 9000 Ferro-Spiral wires right now, some straight, some 90, I'd hate to change these wires since the description states this "These ACCEL Extreme 9000 Ferro-Spiral spark plug wire sets can withstand up to 1,000 degree F heat from an exhaust manifold only 1/2 in. away from the boot." I have regular length NGK platinum spark plugs which Im going to change anyway, these things might be the cause of my voltage issues after my tune up.

ALSO! I have a custom hypertech fan-switch installed, set to turn on my fan @ 176 degrees, so I hope this won't be a problem with the header being in the way.