The Hooker 2055's use a ball and flange setup. The two flat plates that you screw the bolts into are meerly there to apply pressure and keep the ball and flange sealed.

Its a machined surface fit, and no gaskets are neccesary.

 

Alright, good, thanks for clearing that one up.

 

hey i have one quick question about the stage 8 locking bolts. i can only find them in quantities of 12. do i just have to double my order for an extra 4 bolts? hardly seems worth the almost $50 extra.

 

The two center exhaust outlets on SBC heads used to be siamezed.

So you have two bolts on #1, 2 bolts for ports 3 and 5, and then 2 bolts for #7. Totalling 6 exhaust bolts per side.

The 12 pack is enough.

 

just to double check, they offer different length cats. im diong 2055's with american thunder catback. how long of a cat should i get to bridge the gap?

 

what i ended up doing: there was a 1.5 inch gap from the ypipe out to cat in. i got a 3 inch wide exhaust clamp and some of that red exhaust tape. clamped the red tape in and tightend it down. no problems yet lol

 

i just bought a direct fit magnaflow cat and there was no gap. 3" in 3" out with the flange to bolt up the catback.

 

Thanks guys. theimpaler68, do you have a part number by chance? thanks for the feedback

 

hey squatingeagle, hey is the link to the exact converter i bought at summit

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MPE-93441/

i actually just finished locktiteing my header bolts the stage 8 bolts i had didn't lock into place and i got tired of tighting them so locktite red. hope they hold now.

 

perfect! thanks for the help just ordered the cat back hopefully headers and cat soon to

 

my stage 8s are just fine? did you have a hard time "snapping" the ring into place?

 

Anybody want? Brand new, never used. $70 shipped to your door. Magnaflow #94109 High Flow Catatlytic Converter.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MPE-94109/

I can get actual photos if needed, but its no different since its never been used. Thanks for looking.

Edit: SOLD!!!

 

i tightened them all the way down put in the lockers then the snap rings just like you are supposed to but i would keep hearing a jingle. the rings went in fine just didnt preform the way i wanted. didnt like that so i put lock tight in after what a year now. if i can find better ones later i might do it. or if i put this motor in the 86 i will fix it. but for now locktite! luck of the draw i guess

 

Nice thread

One question, wich catalytic converter shall I buy if I want to install the
Hooker 2055 Ceramic Coated headers, Borla 14888 cat-back. (3inch)

I want to keep the A.I.R so the catalytic converter need AIR inletpipe.

So wich one to choose so I can pass inspection and exhaust emissions etc!?

I will buy the headers and exhaust from summit, so the catalytic converter would be nice to be bought from there to, to save shipping etc.

Thanks in regard.


EDIT: Also as good fitment as possible dont wanna cut and bend stuff "to much" I want a good fitment with as little force as possible

EDIT2: btw, I have brand new MSD 8.5 Super Conductor wires (not every wire is 90deg connections.) will this work with those headers or do I need to buy new cables ? would love not to change them again (replaced them last year at autumn) and the last question, can I use AC Delco RJ45TS plugs or do I need new ones ? Please help me out guys and girls, need to know this before I can order the stuff.

 

all 90* plug wires is better. i just put the 4 180* to the distributor til i can afford wires. converter depends on where you are located and the laws. the direct fit magnaflow 3" in and 3" out listed earlier is what i used also on summit. it says no a.i.r. but it has it just capped over. no bending or moving anything or cutting required. someone else chime in for the plugs i have shorty header plugs.

 

just installed my 2055hkr's this last week. pulled the engine to do it so i had plenty of clearance piece of cake. got it all back in and noticed a huge problem... the y pipe that came with them didnt fit! it had about 1/2" too much pipe between the to down pipes so when you bolt one in place the other wasnt even close to lining up. really aggravating. i dont mind the fabrication but i had to grind off the ceramic coating so i could weld! now the cat back is all tweaked because i had to take some pipe out so the angles are off! its not like these headers we built for multiple cars. they were built for an 86-90 camaro... and they didnt fit... a camaro. not very happy with the y pipe but dont mind the project. the headers were super easy to install. dropped the engine with them on had no clearance issues with the brake booster or ac box.

as for spark plug wires. i bought a set for a 79 z28. they are all 90* boots. i bought the cheapo duralast ones and the boots have to much length to them so i had to take them back and i bought the accel ones. worked out great they even came with some clips so you can route them neat.

i used accel 276s for the plugs. plenty of clearance

 

What you SHOULD have done is contact Hooker and they would have replaced it for you.

Instead, now you have voided your warranty, as well as your ceramic coating warranty.

 

Just installed a secondhand set of 2055's on my '88. The car has AFR heads, serpentine brackets removed and replaced by generic ebay accessory brackets, AC and heat removed but the AC box still in place.

Install took 1.5 hours, but I didn't have to touch anything but the plug wires to get them both in from the top.

 

Are the Accel 276S and 8199 the same plugs? Jegs sells the 276S and Summit the 8199. Went to the Accel website and they don't even have the 8199 listed. I'm looking at installing the Hooker 2055's and want to make sure I've got the right pieces. Bought the 8199's at Advance yesterday. Also, what about a part number for the wires? I got the Accel 4065's.

 

You can run normal plugs, its just a PITA to change them without pulling the headers away from the engine.

Aside from the #8 plug I can do them all in about 5 minutes. I usually spend about 20 on the #8 plug because its such a pain to get a socket on there.

Also, if you don't want to spend forever, find a set of Cap Head hex header bolts for a few of them. I use a mix because the cap heads are way easier to get in some places and I don't want to dent the headers. They are ceramic coated and I don't want the ceramic coat to crack.

 

Anyone have the part number for the wire set? Are some of the wires 90*'s and some straight or are all 90*'s?

 

I believe you can just get the plug set for a TPI Vette. They are 8mm wires and about the same price as the normal bird set with angled boots.

The vette set should have angled boots as well.

 

Thirdgen89GTA, thanks for the info and taking the time to reply, but...

I know everyone is busy, but I can't believe no one has the time to simply look under their hood to see if all/some of the boots are 90 degrees or not. A part number would be even better. I'm running out of time as I'm getting ready to once again deploy to Afghanistan at the end of the month and would really like to get all of my mods done prior to leaving. It's gonna be a long six months...

Thanks Brothers...

 

I thought someone answered this already, they have to be 90* boots. Straight, or 45* will hit the headers and melt your wires. You cannot run straight boots with the hooker headers.

 

Copy... Went back and looked and noticed squatingeagle posted that wires for a '79 Z-28 will work (post 216). I'll be heading to Advance to return my 4065's for a set of Accel 4048's.

Thanks Thirdgen89GTA...

 

The TPI Vette wires are the best to buy. They are already 8mm cores and include angled plug boots I believe.

 

Here's what I'm looking at: http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...AMS_1316847699____# I'm not familiar at all with the TPI Vette's and wouldn't even know where to begin as far as searching for the correct ones to use.

 

You just go to your favorite parts store, ask for a set of wires for a vette from 85-92 with the TPI 350 motor.

 

I will do a "ditto" on this. 90* is a must, nothing else will work.

Also, it's a good idea to run spark plug boot protectors, they run about $40.00 a set from Jegs though Checkers or O'Reilly's might have them. I've gone through two sets of wires on my #'s 5 and 7 plugs. Gets hot down between all the collectors. Also the 3 and 4 were cracked but not arcing yet. Lastly, all my wires by my starter ahve started to melt from th heat (The plasic around them) and on the fan switch and knock sensor. running some protectors around them might not be a bad idea also.

 

Im having a problem with the supplied y pipe hitting my oil pan. There is no clearance at all and it looks like i either have to dent the pipe or the oil pan to get it to fit. Anyone else have this problem???

 

This is why I paid the extra for ceramic coating. Made my life easier.

Call Hooker tech support. Where is the y-pipe touching on the oil pan? front/rear, pass/driver.....

 

I saw Ozz1967 post #229 talking about boot protectors. I have 1700* coated 2055's but still went with these. Extra safety never hurts.

NOTE: They come with a metal ring on the boot end which makes it very hard to fit the wires through even with straight boots. I turned the protectors inside out, removed the metal ring, and slid them right over the whole spark plug boot and they sit right up against the motor itself. Full boot and plug protection. I recommend.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DEI-010512/ *Black Version*

 

Its hitting right on the whole front face of the pan. I cant even connect the collectors on the headers because i get one on and i hit the oil pan before i even get close to the other collector. I will definetly try to get ahold of hooker.

 

I say post up pics because I'm having a hard time picturing what you are saying.

 

i had them on my first 1991 camaro i got mine on trade traded the old 5.0 for them to put on my 355 that was going in i had installed them in the car on the street infront of my house everyone told me the pass side was the hard side so i started there it was easy i was really happy till i tried to do the driver side ha after unbolting the motor mounts and going in from the bottom i got it in then the hooker y pipe had to go in and again had issues with the driver side once it was in it was well worth it and you want locking nuts some of the header bolts are a sob to get to
i now have long tubes on my 91 vert those are the sobs to put in

 

i had the same issue with mine hitting but it will fit it just takes alot of moving them around and cussing

 

painted mine today with Techline's satin black

 

anyone have an issue installing the 02 sensor?.....I can't get mine in because one of the pipes is sticking down too far inside the ball flange.

 

QFT!

After my old set of edelcock (sic) headers totally destroyed my last set of wires, I picked up a set of these off eBay at the same time I purchased a new set of DIY accel wires.

Been over 10k miles and 2 years now, now on a set of hooker 2055s. 3 or 4 of the wires are right up against the primary tubes actually resting them on them and with these protectors I haven't had any further BBQ problems.

 

Two years and almost 15K miles on mine since installing the boot protectors and I've got with no more issues since my first set of wires got baked. One thing I ran into though was that the JEGS brand fit my MSD wires better than the name-brand boot protectors did. I'm using the name-brand ones now to protect my wiring for my knock sensor and fan swtich.

 

Those of you who have the hooker 2055's, does anyone know the length and thread pitch of the collector bolts that hold the ball flanges to the Y-pipe?

Somehow, after 3 years one of the bolts has decided to walk its way off the car. Hence, I now have a massive exhaust leak. Ugh. And there is a car cruise tomorrow that I want to go on.

I still have one, but don't have the opportunity to pull the other one off tonight to match for a bolt.

 

Solved my own issue through the power of Google and a reference to TGO's page.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tech...-nut-stud.html

Hooker 2055 Collector flange bolts are 7/16"-14, 2" long.

That thread saved my butt for tomorrow's cruise. Now if only Mother Nature would cooperate.

 

Hi !

Tell me please, this header (HOK-2055-1HKR) can to install, in my Firebird 1991 , 5.0 TBI ? what problems may arise?
I wanted to buy HED 66481 - a big problem !!!! manufacturer breaks the terms of
I waited for 1.5 months, in the end, I refused


Thank you !

 

hey i got the hooker 2055 headers hooked up to my 350 tpi, im wanting to do an lt1 swap soon and would like to know if my current exhaust setup can work with it. thanks.

 

LT1 bolts in place of the TPI. Same exhaust ports, same place. Headers are interchangable there. LS1 is when you need to change your exhaust.

 

For future reference of any that are yet to be added. Use these guides to help.
http://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-in...IandPitch.aspx

 

Can I install Hooker 2055's on my stock 305 TBI? Or do I need to install angle plug heads?

 

They work with all stock headed thirdgens.

 

Thanks!

Can anyone recommend a good 3" cat and cat-back that are to go with these headers (and will fit)?

So far I picked out a MagnaFlow 94000 (3" in/out), and Magnaflow 16829 Stainless Cat Back Exhaust

 

I believe Dynomax makes a high-flow cat. Do a search for it on the board in the exhaust section and you should find it. It's a 3" in/out. For the catback, I love my Hooker Aerochamber muffler. WIth that, just have a shop fab up a 3" "catback" from the cat to the muffler for you.