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as you can see i cut about a half inch off the end. so the end of the spark plug is not quite sticking out the wrench end of the socket.

 

and the only issue i had with my headers were the air tubes were set about a foot back. so i had to buy a length of 5/8ths??? heater hose.

 

Ah okay, thanks.

Really? why were the hoses set so far back? I could understand a couple of inches, but a foot?

 

yeh i duno, just designd wrong i guess...either way a foot of heater hose was like 2 bux...no biggie.oh i just re read my last post.....drivers side was ok it was the passenger side that was back a foot.

 

Glad you guys are getting the A.I.R. figured out.

Have any of you put on your Stage 8 locking bolts? The bolts themselves are nice and tight, but the snap ring and washer thing that locks them are kinda loose and jangly. I think i'm going to put a neat dab of 700* RTV on them to see if it will help.

What have you guys done?

 

do you mean the bolts holding the headers on or the bolts holding the y pipe on?.....i didnt have any issues with them.

 

The bolts holding the headers to the heads. In the pics below the two pieces that hold the bolt from spinning are jangling.

 

hah crazy...all i got were black 6 point bolts....i just used lots of thread locker.

but i would assumed they should be loose and that flat spot is the "locking" part. and the c clip just holds the tab on.

 

Yea they cost me over 40 bucks lol.

I'm gonna try the high temp RTV on the back pass. side bolt. Then i'll drive around a while and see what happens. If it melts off i gues they'll stay jangly. If it holds i'm doing all 12 of them.

 

well good luck with them. im sure for 40 bux they will work lol.

 

Oh they work great! it's 99% impossible that they'll ever come loose, the clip would have to bust off and there's no way in hell that could happen lol.

 

Yeah, I got those, I've just started taking off my old manifolds, well the process anyway. It's been really difficult, I don't want to try to install them from the bottom because it looks tighter from the bottom than the top.

But I've been having a hell of a time with the passenger side manifold, there's some like metal heat cover on it and it's connected via the first bolt on the manifold and another one in the middle. But the edge of the cover that's attached to the first bolt is like wrapped around the bolt so neither a socket or box-end wrench will fit, so I've been having to like pry it away from the bolt with a flat heat screwdriver and rubber mallet. It's ridiculous, has anyone else had a problem like this?

The driver's side looks like it will be a breeze but I figured I'd start with the hardest part.

 

Keep at it! I had the same type of issues with my install, plus about 5 pounds of rust on the bolts. Pliers and a screwdriver work eventually just remember to bend away those little metal tabs that are on the bolts.

 

Keep going the final product is well worth the scrapes you get lol. The nuts do have little tabs on that you have to pry away with a screwdriver. The heat shields can be a ***** but just keep twisting them, they'll break loose. BE SURE TO GET THE REAR PASS SIDE BOLT HOLES CLEAN!!!! That means all of them. The headers use a hole that the manifolds dont so its all full of crap.

Any more questions please ask, you'll get it done don't worry.

 

Alright, yeah, I'm just keeping at it, I got all of the bolts removed on the pass side manifold except the last one near the firewall, which also happens to have that stupid metal tab on it, I went back inside to get a longer flathead to use with a rubber mallet to peel it away. I think I'm going to have to remove it from the bottom though because there isn't enough clearance for a box end to fit, I might try a socket. It's very difficult, should I try to remove those air tubes? I have pretty thick forearms and it makes it really hard when I have to squeeze my arm into a like 4 wide gap between the air tubes and the frame.

Thank god for ratcheting box end wrenches.

 

Okay, well after a few hours in hell, I got the passenger side manifold loose, all the bolts are removed, it's obviously still hanging there because of the y and the driver's side manifold still bolted on.

I thought that stupid little metal tab around the bolt was the worst of my problems, no way, I got that peeled back in about five minutes but then I realize there was no room to do ANYTHING with that stupid effing bolt. I spent maybe an hour or an hour and a half alternating between climbing underneath the car trying to loosen it and attempting from above the motor, well, with alot of cussing I finally managed to use my 14mm ratcheting box end being held against the bolt with a giant 2 foot long screw driver (that damn A/C box is huge and inhibits virtually all movement that doesn't occur above it) and finally got it loose.

I thought replacing my torque arm bushing was difficult, this is easily ten times worse. I had no idea it would be this hard.

Someone PLEASE tell me it's easier installing the passenger 2055 than it is to remove the passenger side manifold.

 

Well, installing can be a little difficult since you want to be carefull to not scratch the paint all off. I have the ac delete box and man that made a HUGE difference at space available. I actually got all bolts on the new headers from the top with no problem at all.

 

Dammit I'm so jealous.

 

If you were closer i would be willing to help one afternoon.

Did you take the Y pipe off yet? There's alot more room underneath when thats gone.

 

Lol, thanks, yeah, too bad Minnesota and California are so far away.

Well I got that passenger side off, and the driver's side looks like a breeze, so I'll just take it all of together (manifolds,y-pipe, cat-back)

I briefly attempted to remove the y-pipe because I thought it could be easier but there wasn't enough room to remove one of the bolts so I just figured my best bet was to get that last manifold bolt off.

I just hope the install of the 2055's easier than removing the stock manifold. It looks like it should be easier to install the bolts, but do you think it'll be hard to slide it in right there on the pass. side? I don't really want to jack up the motor, I was looking at the motor mount earlier and it looks like it'll be difficult to loosen maneuver around there also.

 

i dont think that you should have to jack the motor. i didnt. took me one day for the install. didnt have to cut a wrench for the back pass bolt either since i had a stubby 11mm wrench here. the stage 8 locking bolts jaggled because they got loose after first tighten. you should pull the clips back out and retighten the reclip and if they jaggle again at least you know that they are tight enough. gotta pull mine back out because i blew out the header gaskets on both sides. the install on the pass side will go easy as long as you CLEAN the holes first. i had to double install that side because i didnt think i needed too. you do trust me. 89ROC-Z did you get that heat shield on the starter? pics? i might need to get one if i put a powermaster starter on later on down the road.

 

No that heater shield shield isn't on yet. I tried to put it on while installing the front bumper (car was a foot in the air) and it's a really tight squeeze. I might try again today when i put my clear lights on.

 

Which holes are you referring to impaler?

I meant to ask you also 89IROC-Z when you said the 2055's use holes that the stock manifolds don't, bolt holes? So I have to clean out bolt holes that were never used before?

 

Just finished unbolting the driver's side manifold, all went well except for the alternator connection to the alternator bracket, for some reason that one had a torx bit screw instead of a standard bolt, so it took me some time to locate my set of torx screw drivers.

Now I'm going to saw the air tube off of the cat and it all should come off.

 

Yes you have to clean out holes that were never used before. To be 110% sure clean out EVERY SINGLE bolt hole near the exhaust ports.

 

Manifolds, y-pipe back is off, going to do the spark plugs now.

 

Alright, I need some suggestions, I can't get the passenger side header in. It just won't fit, I believe I have three options.

1. Remove the starter, try to maneuver it in from either bottom or top, either way it will help because there are wires in the way that inhibit movement from the top.

2. Remove A/C belt driven compressor, it will allow me to slide the header in first then move it backward into position, the collector is too big to fit in that small area without the starter removed.

3. Remove the evap? I think that little canister that looks like a bullet is the evaporator right? Well is it safe to remove that? It would really help if I could do that.


Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.



ALSO, a sensor broke. It was one right in the passenger side head, between the last two exhaust ports, if you will. It is blue. CTS? The computer one or the gauge? I'll check tomorrow whether it's the gauge.


That's all I can do until monday on the car, I have to go to work all weekend.

 

The sensor is the one that turns your fans on. Might as well get a hypertech switch right away to run a cooler temp. When i put my headers in from the top i did not have to take the starter off. i did however have the a/c delete pulley installed.

 

I don't have the money for an A/C delete box right now, gf's birthday, damn money sucker.

But do you know whether it'd be okay to remove that canister? It wouldn't explode when I remove the lines to it would it? Or like shoot stuff in my face?

Because that's probably the biggest inhibitor at this point.

 

Do you want to keep A/C on your car? If not just take all the lines and canister off but leave the compresor and box on for now if money is tight.

About removeing the lines with pressure...There is pressure there so idk what could happen? Maybe call a dealer or somethin.

 

I hate my A/C, it does nothing but blow outside temp air, it's just a fan pretty much. The only reason I use it is because I set it at the lowest setting to run my fans, will it still run the fans with the canister removed? I will rig up a switch sometime this summer.

I've heard that it will shoot crap at me, I think I'll wear a mask or something. It shouldn't have much pressure at all because it's for sure out of R12, it doesn't blow cold at all.

 

Got the passenger side header in. The only problem is that I attempted to remove the serp. belt and remove the A/C compressor but realize halfway through removal (removed the bolts from that little backing plate and the compressor) that the only thing inhibiting the install of the header was the pos. battery cable going to the starter.

And now the compressor is not lined up with the backing plate that the bolts screw into, it's off by about three or four millimeters. I tried hitting the plate with a rubber mallet but it did not move it at all.


What should I do to line it up properly? The haynes says something about an adjusting screw, where is it?


Also, how exactly do I remove the serpentine belt? Do I unscrew the little bolt on the pivot pulley? The haynes mentions something about a half inch socket. There is a little square hole at the top of the tensioner, how do I use that with the half inch? Just put it in and pull?

 

place the ratchet in the square hole and crank back on it. that is a tensioner.

 

For a spark plug socket - Snap-On has a shorty spark plug socket that works well with a ratcheting box end wrench. Great Sticky!!

 

WOOHOO. Getting my new knock sensor, temp switch, fan switch and coolant sensor tomorrow. Now I can install my headers, plugs, wires, valve covers, wire looms, battery and start the car...Uh oh, I'm close to driving my Roxie. Ill update with pictures and comments on install.

 

If you take a spark plug socket and cut about 1" off the end, its MUCH easier to install several of the spark plugs as the primary tubes block direct access. #7 is probably the hardest to get with the 2055 headers.

In any case, a short socket is very useful. Without one, I have to undo almost all the header bolts and back the headers off the head a bit while I do the plugs. With the short socket is unnessecary.

 

I'll have the plugs installed when I install the headers, but for future reference, thanks. Might look into some shorty plugs in the future? Glad plugs are cheap.

 

IIRC you'll have to have #6 and #8 plugs removed to get the header in.

 

I never noticed the plugs to be very difficult to install. I guess that's because I had a hard enough timing removing the old manifolds and making room to install the headers, that it made the plugs feel like a walk in the park.


But what helped me out is that I'm sure you guys know how a spark plug socket is notched at the end like a big (17 mm I believe) bolt. Well the plug that gave me the most trouble (probably #7 or whichever is difficult to gain access to) had enough room between the tube and plug to fit the socket over the plug, but not enough room to fit my ratchet on the end of the socket. So I used my ratcheting 17 mm. combo wrench and did it like that.

Other than that I had no problem.

 

Thanks guys, I will be sure to address these when doing mine.

 

Need a question answered and hope I didn't screw myself (no pun intended).

I bought Stage 8 Part #8911A which are the 1" bolts, are these too long? I hope not I can't return them to Summit since it's been more than 30 days, maybe they will allow an exchange of some sort, they are unopened. Let me know guys, headers going on this weekend, hopefully....if these are to long a ride to summit is in order. Might see if I can exchange my cat for the direct fit 3" cat from Magnaflow as well.

Also, can I just use a battery terminal cleaner (the side for side post batteries), to clean these holes out? Or should I get some thread chasers?

Thanks guys.

 

Sorry for multiple posts but getting off work soon, need to know if I have to return these or not for the 3/4" ones.

 

Summit will accept returns for the full price within 90 days

 

OH YES YES YES...how did I miss that in the 3 years buying parts..haha thanks, but do I need to return the 1" ones or will I be okay using them? Someone stated they would punch through into the water jackets.

 

like the idea, seen it once or twice before - good work.
i think sears sells something like that but we all over 3 or 4 plug sockets.
how long did it take you to cut them?

 

thanks. it took mabey 30 mins total...3 inch cutting wheel and then some sort of metal die grinder bit (worth $30 lol) the most time consuming part was running back and forth between the vice and the car fine tuning the cut in the side lol.

much better buying a cheapo sparkplug socket to cut than buy a socket made for the job that your really only going to use once a year.

 

Either use the correct tap or just take the old manifold stud and cut a slit down the side with a cutting wheel and grind the end flat. Remember to do ALL HOLES the headers use a hole on #8 that the manifolds don't so it's full of crap. i blocked all the exhaust ports and used some finer sand paper and made sure the surface was clean. Then blow everything with air and your set.

IIRC the 1" bolts will work. To make sure, before you put the headers on screw the 1" bolt into the head all the way and see how much is sticking out. If its thinner than the header flange your fine. I think my .75" bolts screwed all the way into the head so i think the 1" will work without a problem. Good Luck man!

 

I've never ran my car for more than about 15 minutes since I installed my 2055's about two months ago. Because it's just the headers-y-pipe-cat. And as a result it's ridiculously loud, it hurts my ears inside the car.

I bought a muffler about a month ago, and I am going to take it to a shop to have it welded up with piping in about two weeks.

But I just want to make sure I installed the y-pipe correctly.

The flat surface of the corresponding header collector and y-pipe never actually fully touch correct? There is about an inch or maybe a bit less between the two flat surfaces of the ball and socket set up.

Is this correct?


Please tell me it is, I'm dreading going back down there to reconnect my temperature gauge sensor.

 

if i understand correctly then no they do not touch

 

yes it is correct. just evenly tightening them back and forth till there tight.