I H8 WWD

iTrader: (5)

I have this exact setup installed. Instead I used the Magnaflow #93441 to mate from the #2055 3" outlet y-pipe to the 3" inlet of the #16829 kit. Let me know how your fitment goes. The #93441 was a little close to the stock hanger bracket for the stock cat, making me remove it from the car entirely. Exhaust seems pretty solid as far as movement without that hanger bracket.

willyp

This is a great, ie., very informative thread on header installs. Are the Hooker 2055's still an available part #/header? Were these the shorties or mids? Is the majority of the info. and advice in this thread still relevant 5 yrs. later? For the guys that originally contributed to this thread, how did your exhaust setups hold-up? How about the hardware, and the ceram. coating itself?
I have only installed SLP 'mids' on my (4th Gen)'94 LTI T/A, and to put it mildly, it was a bit*ch. Those headers were supposed to "drop right in from the top", and neither one did. We had to jack the hell out of the motor, and put them both in from underneath the car. Scratched the pi#s out of one of 'em, and lots of knuckle-skin lost,and expletive-laced tyrades launched. Also, I splurged on the alum. crush gaskets, and the expensive Grade-8 stainless locking header bolts, and still had to re-tighten (the few I could actually get to after the plugs, wires and heat-sleeves were all on there) every now and then, and I hardly ever drove my car! Except for weekend cruising and shows. Also, do locking header bolts even work w/cast iron heads? I thought they were primarily designed for alum. headed engines only? I might be mistaken, this was like 6-7 yrs. ago now.

Thanks all. And forgive this newb for posting to a fairly archaic thread, but it brought up the question of weather or not I actually want to tackle doing headers on my '86 TPI. If I can do it w/o too g-damn much stress, and I can actually get both headers in from the topside of the car, (preferably w/o jacking the motor off it's mounts), then maybe. And if the bolts don't back out and fall onto the highway on occasion, that would be great as well...

Thanks.

Thirdgen89GTA

iTrader: (5)

The 2055's will make you swear and complain just as much. They are also a little too tight against he block. Get a shortly spark plug socket or modify an existing one.

The 2055's are still available and Hooker will probably continue to make them for a long time. Summit, Thunderracing, etc...plenty of shops still offer them.

Ceramic coating is worth its weight in gold to me. The dramatic difference it makes in underhood temps is greatly appreciated. This doesn't mean the headers will be cool to the touch, just that their external temperature will be much less. But the ceramic insulation will let them hold heat for longer too so they don't actually cool down as fast as uncoated headers.

DynoDons headers seem to be the best shorty header at the moment, but Hookers aren't that far behind.

willyp

Thanks. And ditto on the Jet-Hotting. I wouldn't bother installing headers on any F-car w/o having them coated 1st. On my '94, you could literally grab the primaries w/your bare hands 15 min
after shutting off the motor, & not get burned! It's sooo worth the extra $, there's not even an argument, or a good-enough counterpoint to make me consider doing headers w/o it. Btw, what is the cost of the other brand of headers you mentioned? Do they come coated? Or do you have to send them out? What is your opinion on using 'locking' header bolts on cast-headed engines? I didn't think they'd even 'dig into' cast-iron.(?)
Thanks, Bro!

Ozz1967

iTrader: (4)

They're all around the same. $350-ish uncoated, about $600-ish coated. I have the hooker's on my car, took about 4hrs to install and I still had to take it to an exhaust shop because the y-pipe wasn't close enough to my intermediate pipe (from the cat), to meet up without a little work. On some cars, there's no extra work at all. I've heard good things about Dyno Don's, but I don't think they have the ball style connection (Header to Y-pipe) that the hookers use so you'll need to us a gasket with them. Get a percey's aluminum crush style gaskets, those seem to be one of the better sets. I've had a set of manifold gaskets on the car now for 2 years, haven't had to change them once. The other paper or rubber style seem to blow every 6 months otherwise.

Header bolts back out, just a fact of life with them. Get some lock-tite and put it on the threads when you install them. Makes them stay seated and it takes them alot longer to work loose. I've never found any way to make them stay for 100k miles like on the original manifold. Also, if you have AC, getting to the last two bolts on the passenger side can be a real pain. I basically have to lay on top of the motor facing the back of the car and do everything one handed. There's just no room coming in from the side.

willyp

I just Googled 'DynoDon's' headers, and I definately want these. Eventually.
I will not even be thinking of headers until this winter when the car is put into hibernation. Do you think it's worth it to get a catback, and have it installed before the snow flies? Or will it just cause me to have to cut it up and reweld everything later when I install the headers? I really want another Hooker Aerochamber setup like I had on my '94. They sound awesome, and are very affordable. I'm not worried about aluminized steel vs. stainless, as this car will likely never see inclement weather as long as I own it. What is the difference between the Aerochamber catback, and the Hooker Competition? Muffler, materials, finish?

Thanks again.

Ozz1967

iTrader: (4)

I have the aerochamber muffler on my car. LOVE IT! I've run the Flow Master's 40 and 80 series and I just...just don't like their sound that well. They "drone" too much for me at highway speed when I'm crusing. Personally, I'd wait until you got the headers. Save your money for now. I'd buy the headers and the Aerochamber muffler, get the headers coated of buy them coated, then take it to the shop all at once and be like. "I want a catback to fit it." This way there's no "Surprises". If you want, you could even install the headers yourself, then drive it to the shop open pipe...that would be wicked. Just avoid the 5-0, they might get you for "exessive exhaust noise". Thenjust tell them you're taking to to the shop. haha

willyp

Ozz, like I mentioned earlier in the thread, I have installed headers on my 4th gen., and it was brutal. But not as brutal as I'm sure a shop's bill would be for headers and welding up a catback all in one shot. I'd have to guess it be the money you spent for the parts all over again, and then some. And that's probably a conservative estimate.
I did drive my LT1 over 40+ miles to my exhaust guys w/open headers. It really wasn't as bad as you'd think. I had an M6 T/A, and I just stayed out of it (almost) the entire way in. ;^)
I'm thinking I may just get the Hooker Super-Comp catback now, have it installed (is it possible to just use clamps until I get the headers and y-pipe and have it all welded together?) just for a little power/sound boost this fall, and to compliment the minor motor bolt-ons I plan on doing once I get the car, and get the cosmetic issues straightened out first. You basically have to buy an entire catback where I live, as the guys I have do my exhaust work still don't have a mandrel bender! I bring them an aftermarket catback, they bitch the whole time how the 'fit and finish' suck, 'nothing lines up or fits properly'. Then they act like they can't make any $, because everyone does the same thing as I do, cause they don't want a 'custom' system that's 'crush bent'. Duh. These two turds (father and son team, both mean as hell) just don't seem to get it. The bit*h of it is, they do fantastic work, can make anything work/fit, and always do their best to get the tips lined up perfectly, etc...
I really need to find some new exhaust guys... lol!
BTW, who makes a decent (affordable) high-flow cat for my car? I believe it is a single cat car, correct? 1986 T/A w/TPI 305.

Thanks again.

Ozz1967

iTrader: (4)

Yes, your's should be a single cat car. Do a search for high flow cat, I saw a post about two days ago where someone again posted the link for it.

I installed my own headers, the car wasn't running, so it was towed to the shop, but I only spent about $200 for them to install the 3" catback. I already had the cat and Aerochamber muffler in the back seat, so most of the work was fabbing up the pipe and puting it in. Mounting exhaust really isn't that expensive, as long as you have the expensive parts already...muffler, cat, headers etc.

willyp

I feel ya', but I can't imagine having any shop intall headers would be a cheap proposition. Considering the accessories that need to be removed, & the overall labor time required. I remember when I was swearing & bleeding my way through swapping out the spark plugs on my '94 LT1, I inquisitively checked w/the members of my old message board, Fbody.com re: the cost of having the plugs done @ a shop. Needless to say, I went back to the garage newly energized & inspired knowing that it was around a $300 job (give or take 50 bucks) to have the 'pros' do it. I'm just remembering back to how I wished I would have waited to change the plugs until I did the headers, because they are both absolute nightmare jobs on the 4th gen cars. Even if you had the headers in hand, w/all the hardware, gaskets, etc..., I'd have to imagine that a reputable shop would charge you an arm and a leg to install them.
I did have a custom system fabbed-up and installed on my '00 WS6, & if I remember correctly, it was around $500 out the door. That's not bad, when one considers the cost of a premade, brand-name system, ($270-$1000+), plus the typical price to install/weld it, ($125-$200+), the custom system's are usually gonna come in a little cheaper. Assuming , of course, that the shop has a mandrel bender, & can @ least come close to matching the flow rate(s) & typical power gains of the aftermarket systems.

Guest

...They could have been ported better....
coating on y has an -area- where it looks like it was rubbed off......

Guest

Also the size cap needed to plug the AIR port is in fact 5/8".

I H8 WWD

iTrader: (5)

I had mine coated inside and out. I was told and read somewhere that this helps exhaust flow as well as keeping the heat from leaving the header through the coating, exhausting(?) all of it through the...exhaust. I'm not that great with automotive lingo, but you guys understand what I mean. So not only do they flow better than an uncoated inside, but they cool faster or essentially stay cooler overall.

P.S. Mine are 1700* coated. Gellner Engineering (Mainly marine engines, but they took my walk in).

SaxophoMan

I checked Dyno Don's, and they sell the 2055's (ceramic coated) without air tubes (which is what I want), but the y-pipe is not ceramic coated. How important do you guys think it is to have the y-pipe coated too?
I figure I would just get the coated 2055's and use a very high temp. paint for the y-pipe.

Thirdgen89GTA

iTrader: (5)

By the time the exhaust gasses reach the Y-pipe they've cooled a significant degree as compared to the primaries.

Don't forget though, most of the Y-pipe is under the car, where there is more airflow and as such it cools faster than the headers which are in a much more compact place.

The Y-pipe is ceramic coated on my set, only because I did some promo ad work for the company that did the coating. So I got some major discounts as I didn't get cash for the work.

Thirdgen89GTA

iTrader: (5)

When I had my headers coated I also went with the hightemp coating. I was told they wouldn't look "pretty" for long and the texture would roughen up a bit. But that didn't bother me, underhood temps were pretty cool compared to the furnace I've felt blasting off other cars with uncoated headers.

Dyno Don

iTrader: (7)

My Y-pipes are now available with aluminized tubing.

Bruce.jr90

I was wondering.... is there an equivilant with a y pipe and without the air tubes? Less expensive perhaps? Also I'm going to be running a gmpp 350ho. It comes with vortec heads. Will this be an issue?

Beef

iTrader: (1)

So I installed a set of these this weekend, on my wife's '89 RS, 5.0tbi, on ramps in the driveway, it was not pleasant. But here's some tips if you plan to undertake it.

First get ceramic coated, I'm time rich and money poor, I read some claims of using VHT paint, figured I'd save a few bucks.
Getting the anti rust paint off, seriously not fun, its thick, auto stripper and a wire wheel didn't really work, however after hours of fruitless labor I found soaking them with acetone pretty much dissolves it. Jury's out on the paint, but if I ever do it again I'll buy coated, no matter what the paint isn't worth the hassle.

I installed them, retaining A.I.R. and A/C, both create headaches.
Have stubby and angle wreches to fit your header bolts. Do not count on reusing A.I.R. check valves, buy them ahead of time, $20ish at napa. Clean all mounting holes in the head with a tap. Make sure the bolts will thread into the ball flange holes before installing. Retaining A/C and A.I.R. neccessitates jacking the left side of the motor, and taking the A/C compressor loose, don't try not to, I did, it didn't work and wasted allot of time. I ditched the brace that runs to the A/C compressor, I retained the one to the alternator. It really seemed like the Y-pipe was not going to fit, it hit the K-member and would only reach one header at a time, I was about to give up and then it kinda fell into place, lots room, but I did have to pry the passenger side over a little. I installed Bosch plugs (I think ACDelco and reg Accel are the only ones too long), with a modified socket and wrench, went pretty easy, and used '79 Camaro wires which nets 90 degree boots.

The header install wasn't the easiest thing I ever undertook, complicated by a broken exhaust stud, but it wasn't exactly difficult either. I finished up with a 3" Catco and Hooker cat-back, sounds good pretty quiet, but doesn't feel like it gained any power. Hope this helps someone.

Ozz1967

iTrader: (4)

Dyno Don's sells a set witout AIR tubes.

Ozz1967

iTrader: (4)

The higher temp gases leaving the chamber move faster when "hot", so they evacuate the exhaust chamber more fully which is why everyone wants to coat their headers. It just keeps the exhaust flow speed high. Makes for a more efficient burn. Not sure how much the Y-pipe helps, but as noted, it cools much faster than the headers because it's under the car.

I had mine "Coated" with HPC coating (Very similar to JET HOT coating) by a company in Salt Lake City. It ran $250 to coat the whole set.

Ozz1967

iTrader: (4)

That sounds like my experience installing the headers in my 84 T/A. The AIR tubes are an absolute PITA to work around, you will learn to hate them. If you really don't need emissions testing where you are, I would've gotten a set without them. I"ll keep the CAT, I don't mind that, but those AIR tubes suck. You can't do anything with them in the car. I've found I have to lay on top of the motor and reach down left handed and blindly dig around with my left hand to find bolts in the back of the motor. And god-forbid that you have to change your fan switch...with the AC box in the way and the AIR tubes, even swivels have a hard time getting in their at the right angle.

As for the power, they "free" up power in the car. You may not feel an appreciative "in the seat" power jump, but your car will run alot better and you may get some better MGP's. My 305 "picked up" around 12hp from installing my headers. I wish I had a baseline with my new 355 on the original exhaust. WHen I have it dyno'd next, I may see if I can find a set of factory manifolds to bolt on ...just to see. On second thought, that's a terrible idea. Never mind. At any rate, headers just sound cool.

EvelBist

iTrader: (1)

Anyone install Remflex gaskets with 2055s? Which gasket model did you buy?

Mike85TALimited

OK, so I've done a quick search through the forum and this post and I still don't know one thing for sure about these Hooker 2055s:
Will they fit a 1985 Trans AM?
Everything I read about them says 1986-90. When I search by vehicle, I can only find the Hooker 2460s for the '85, but if I use '86 as the year I come up with the 2055s as well.
Is there something different about the '85 that makes it not work with the 2055s for some reason?
I'm inches away from pulling the trigger on a set of these but this issue has me scratching my head.

EDIT:
Face, meet palm.
Found "https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/exha...-fit-85-a.html"
Still leaves my question mostly unanswered, only that it will supposedly fit.

Another bit of research (summitracing.com specifically), starting with Exhaust Y-Pipes, then selecting 3" outlet diameter, year selection begins at 1986 without selecting make/model or anything else... perhaps this is why the 2055 doesn't show up in a search for an 85. But this again begs the question: why?

dickeymoore

Will the Hooker 2055's work with Dart Pro 1 "ANGLE" plug heads and what about sparkplug changing?THANKS

Dyno Don

iTrader: (7)

Not very good, they block part of the port.
And... the collector opening to the Y-pipe sucks.(but can be fixed)

dickeymoore

How do you fix the collector opening at the y-pipe?

Thirdgen89GTA

iTrader: (5)

Assemble
Mark the Ball flange on the header side
Start grinding. Leave your self some room to move the Y-pipe a bit. You grind too much away and you will have leak on your hand.

Guest

Just don't buy the 2055s....their trash.

dickeymoore

I guess I will have to save up the money to get the Dyno Don's headers and y-pipe cause right now my money is "Tighter than Seven Budweisers in a Six pack".THANKS

Guest

I did a LT swap for less than Dons. btw-

-just throwen it out their

88gunmetalgta

iTrader: (1)

Double post...

88gunmetalgta

iTrader: (1)

How bout throw out something helpful?



2055's will get you by until you can get yourself a decent set of long tubes.

Guest

He said his budget was tight, Dons are expensive...

-helpful

dickeymoore

What parts did you use,how did it fit and any pictures of your install?THANKS

Guest

Mini starter and heated o2.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/exha...g-tube-vs.html

boscat

I received my 2055 headers along with some seal4good gaskets. they are the ones with the 1.5 square holes. when I hold the gaskets up to the headers they don't look like they are going to seal. looks like a leak before I even bolt them on. I didn't realize that the primary tubes came through the mounting flange like they do and so are round where they meet the gasket. Kinda like putting a round peg into a square hole. It touches on the sides but not on the corners. the gaskets that came with the 2055 are square as well but they made the holes a lot smaller so they do touch all the way. Any ideas? Should be using the round ones? I think those would work.

Also would a set of 4048 accel wires work for me?
Any part numbers that might work for me?

Thirdgen89GTA

iTrader: (5)

I just used the standard FelPro gaskets found in most stores for SBC. They worked just fine.

Beef

iTrader: (1)

I used the gaskets that came with them, been on our daily driven 89 since March of this year, no leaks, no loose bolts, used some 1" parts store header bolts.

4048s worked fine.

Red_Dragon

iTrader: (1)

What length header bolts can you use with the Hooker 2055's? I bought some 3/8" Diameter x 3/4" Long header bolts a while back and just got around to taking off my original headers. The original bolts look longer then the one's I bought. Would they work or do I need the 1" long one's? I have stock heads but will be upgrading to AFR's pretty soon.

Also, does anyone know the thread size for the two bolts that connect the header to the y-pipe?

Thirdgen89GTA

iTrader: (5)

With hooker 2055's you are likely going to need a mix of cap-head and hex-head bolts to make life easier.

If you want to know how deep they run just remove a single bolt, then run a tooth pick or something into the boss and mark how deep it goes.

Red_Dragon

iTrader: (1)

Hey, thanks for the quick response. I'll have to try the toothpick suggestion you had that sounds like a good idea. I think I'll take a look at that and also pick up some cap bolts since I already have hex bolts.