I saw those wires and almost bought - look nice! Are you getting coated headers? That'd help a ton to protect with those wires. Also, Summit & others sell slip on 6" boots that provide something like 1,000* protection, ~$40 a set.

 

I ordered mine two days ago, they should come by next week, i need a cat though.

i never got that "gray area" cleared up either, about the air tubes being backwards or something, but i decided that if that's the case i will just plug the holes off and remove the AIR and smog pump making the air tubes redundant.


Does anyone know what size the stock cat/exhaust system is on my car?

 

Also, you guys should order ACC-0576S shorty style.

It's the same version as 0276S but with a Resistor, i believe they are used to prevent static threw radio and other stuff, the RFI stuff.

"In fact, using a non-resistor plug in certain applications can actually cause the engine to suffer undesirable side effects such as an erratic idle, high-rpm misfire, engine run-on, power drop off at certain rpm levels and abnormal combustion."

It's a $1.00 more, not sure if it really even matters tho? i know most "today" spark plugs have resistors, I just saw that the 0276S didnt.

Also, will i be able to work with my current wires? As they aren't all 90 degree, some are tho, I suppose I'll just have to test fit them.

 

for my set up the air tubes directions are okay; compare pictures and look at your set up. http://store.summitracing.com/partde...510+4294791974+

 

When i look at my headers, theres no way a straight boot would fit. I ran the wires under the headers and 90* boots were a must. I had to make a socket witha slit on one end to get some plugs in, so i doubt the straights will work.

 

what do you cover the wires with to prevent them from melting? is there anything you can cover them with to prevent burning and melting?

 

if you are in cal then you need a cat that meets the new standards - ouch. the MagnaFlow 43009 will cost you a couple of hundred. as of jan 1 the smog ****'s demand new standards. you cant use the same cats you had before jan 1 for a new install. most smog shops will not put the old stuff on. and there are even new standards that make the cat writing readable at 5 feet.

 

the cat you mentioned is illegal in cal and the smog ****'s fail the visual. you cant even get them to ship it into cal. and its way to small - you need a 3 inch in and out. MagnaFlow 43009 has a carb approved one but its 200.00.

 

Just ordered my 2055 headers from summit, along with a magnaflow cat, part# 94019, 49 state legal tho, it's a 3" universal cat with air, since I'll be using the air system.

For the record, the direction for the air tubes on the headers is correct.

I used Taylor 8mm Wires, 90 degree boots, part # 74206 from summit, under $50 as well, looks to be the perfect wires, nice small boots.

And ACC-0576S shorty spark plugs with Resistors.

And stage 8 locking header bolts, and aluminum header gaskets.

Will update if i get them installed.

 

Not good. Makes it more expensive to get in than a direct-fit would cost you.

Depends upon what your car is. If TPI, it's correct. If not, it's backwards.

All the more reason to get a direct-fit cat.

 

I'm sorry but how would it be more expensive to install? it has slip on ends, that will go over a standard 3" pipe.

the Catco 9118 is a direct fit, and has a "slip fit" connection that slides on the hooker 2055 Y-Pipe, same as the magnaflow, as for the catco having a Flange on the outlet, well, it don't bother me much, I don't really get why it needs a flange for the outlet but I'm no expert, i know my exhaust side before cat doesnt have one, so i'd need to connect it somehow, maybe someone will explain that to me.

The $300 was a quote for header installation, the cat install/labor being included in price.

I have a TBI, but I've already done the research, and contacted someone on cardomain with the same car, year, engine and headers and asked him.

 

there is a place for the oxy sensor on these?

 

Yep, it's on the drivers side header, and it screws in from the back (rear of car). Pull the wire out of the electrical tile so you can plug it back in. I used zip ties to hold everything in place.

 

Alright, thanks alot, mine came today, i didn't get to look at them before i had to go to work, i was trying to figure out whether there was a place for the o2 sensor through my girlfriend on the phone, but she was too confused with all the AIR tubes and the actual header tubes lol, so i just told her i'd wait until i got off work.

 

IF you don't have to worry about emissions, then I would just buy the shorties that don't have the the A.I.R. tubes. the 2055's are specifically "emissions legal", but Hooker sells an identical set without the A.I.R. tubes but I don't think they call them 2055's, I believe they have a slightly different number.

 

They are called 2460s. However they are not the same. I believe the 2055s are 18 gauge and the 2460s are 16. Also the 2460s Y is no-where near as good as the 2055 Y i've heard. I never seen the other Y in person, all i know is my 2055 Y looks amazing.

 

TTT I see alot of new questions being asked that are in this thread. Great info here!

 

those 2460's are nowhere near the quality of the 2055's. from what i have read in the stickys. yes lots of great info in this thread. i did look yesterday and i will need to wrap my starter. you should never wrap headers because you will void your warranty. i saw that in the stickys too. thanks to everyone who posted info and pics. one thing i still need to do is rebrace my ac comp. i dont like the classic spot since i have locking header bolts... maybe to the strut tower. i need to get a brace anyway. mine got misplaced about a year ago.

 

I was thinking of getting this heat sheild. http://store.summitracing.com/partde...9&autoview=sku

Think it will work? Looks promising and for 7 bucks i cant make one lol.

 

that looks like it should fit right in. and if it doesnt for $7 i wouldnt mind modding it to fit. not like you are going to pay $70.

 

Dont waste your time with headers, and I would NEVER spend 1,000 on headers. I just put some on my car. Not looking for performance or sound or anything. I just put them on because My Old y pipe was leaking really bad and a new y pipe was $300 and headers were like $320 with y pipe. and i wanted to get ride of my air pump and emission ****. So I put them on. NO PERFORMANCE at all, and made my car quieter. and I have a 80's series Flowmaster. LOL

Now I love headers and a Good set of headers will make a difference, But lets say with a stock 305 daily driver, dont waste your money/time.

 

Which headers did you put on?

In most cases you get what you buy, there's a reason why the 2055's are so damn expensive.

 

Yeah, really they only shorties worth it are the Hooker 2055's, The SLP Tri-Y's (discontinued), or the SLP Shorties.

Other than that, long tubes are where its at. The header choices for our cars are very slim as far as performance and ground clearance goes.

I've thought about selling my shorties and going with long-tubes, but don't want to lose ground clearance.

 

as i have stated before though... headers and exhaust dont create power. they are performance as they do FREE UP power that your motor has but is restricted. they create better air flow. just like those of us with a maf sensor. if you take out the screens you free up power... better flow going in. if you have tpi then put in one of those air foils at the tb and you free up power because of better air flow. exhaust STUFF in general doesnt ADD just releases your motors natural ability. you do get more even out of a stock motor 305 or 350 or even the v6's. just have to get the right stuff for your application.

 

If you follow that line of thinking then your heads don't make power either. They just free up power by allowing the intake to flow more.

Its semantics. Headers make more power. Period. Whether or not the $/HP is the right price is up to the person.

Long tubes are best, but you sacrifice ground clearance. Shorties and mid length headers are a balancing act between long tubes and manifolds.

 

the point in my statement though is that headers have no moving parts. heads do. heads would be an adder. but you are right in a sence that freeing up air for them would free up power but they are controlled by other components. the headers help you reach a power range. and yes long tubes are the best... for top end power. shorties are better for torque.

 

I totally agree with you. If you dyno your car before and after you'll see a difference in hp/tq.

 

Hollys. Better known as flowtech!! lol yeah there shity. But they work. But yeah im sure the Hookers are better.

 

i read in my instructions that using new ceramic coated headers will eff the coating. what is the defenition of rebuilt?

ive sent my heads out and got them machined/valve grind/cleaned and painted. plus a few new vlaves and springs where needed. (they look like brand new).

will this mess up my headers?

 

Sorry im not picking up what your laying down. So you got new ceramic coated headers, and you got rebuilt heads that are painted correct? I don't see a problem with using those two, I'm sure lots of people got that. I'm a tad bit confused.

 

ok i understand. you heard that you cant put new headers on a new engine. it applies to the engine, which will run extra hot during the engine break in, and that extra heat will damage the coating. but i have never heard it apply to newly reconditioned heads.

 

cant get direct fit cats here in cal today. you either go with 2 1/4 pipes or you use the carb approved universal cat, both made by mag. the new cat, mine just arrived has a 3 inch inner hole and slips over the top of my 3 inch y from my 2055 headers.
i like the fact i can brace insteat of weld them in. so if the carb ****'s change the world i can pull them out.
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/exha...available.html is where i posted it.
but dyno don is the man.

 

lol sorry for the confusion. basically i was just wondering what hooker would define a rebuilt engine. i understand it consists of a fresh block/new pistons new cam new lifters, everything basically new. just wondered if my refurbished heads would effect the coating. but after reading tonys post i think ill be fine lol.

 

no you are ok. new and rebuilt engines - new pistons, and the like, will run a little hot until they break in. rings are not seated well for a while, that kind of new. your heads will not make the engine run hotter.
what they warn again is too much heat as it can crack the coating. the coatings are temp rated - usually not over 700 or so running temp - jump in here anyone if the temp figure is wrong. there is a chance if the new engine runs too hot it can break the coating.

 

Just to let everyone know, I ordered Summits stainless heat sheild for the starter. When i get it on ill tell you how it went!

 

Just finished installing new Hooker 2055 headers after removing the stock ones yesterday! Thanks to everyone who posted install advice as thats what got me through the tough spots.

If anyone needs pictures of anything they're stuck on while they are installing their headers let me know because some things (like the tabs around some of the stock bolts) really confused me at first.

One question I have is how did everyone secure the oil dipstick after installing the new headers? right now its not secured down because the new bolts aren't long enough.

 

Hey good job man! They really are nice headers. I did not rebolt the oil dipstick. Instead i used some rtv and really pressed the stick into the block good and tight. So far so good and it seems very solid.

 

hah i was wondering what i was gonna do about that lol. Thanks!

 

so, anyone tired to install spark plugs with these headers? im going to go buy a cheapo spark plug socket and cut one side out of it.... anyone have this issue or is it just me lol?

 

Shouldn't be a problem, use Shorty plugs from ACCEL, they are listed in this thread.

Hawks also sells a special header socket to change your spark plugs without removing the headers.

 

dont buys hawks "special" socket. Just cut a side off one and your golden!

 

thanks guys. i thought i had done all my research on these headers...turns out i missed one thing lol.

at first i was all excited about easily being able to access the spark plugs....then i tried to tighten them haha.

 

Does anyone know how different the MAC headers and y-pipe are from the Hooker 2055s? Specifically, would a MAC y-pipe for $170 and a used set of 2055s fit together?

 

Its unlikely unless MAC is a offshoot brand of Hooker, which I don't think it is.

The Hooker 2055's COME with a Y-pipe, its not possible to buy one without brand new. So either the previous owner damaged the y-pipe somehow, or he sold it.

The 2055's use a ball flange for the header to y-pipe connection. Not many other headers use something like that so its unlikely it will work.

here's a pic of the 2055's out of the box.
http://home.comcast.net/~thirdgen89g...headers009.jpg

 

Quick question for you guys, I've had my 2055's for a bit and I haven't put them on yet, I just haven't had the time to take my car out of commission for the time it will take to install it, I could probably do it in a day but I'm not willing to take the risk of missing class or work for that.

So my semester's over on tuesday so I'll do it immediately after that, but I have a quick question (s).

I have a stock L03, everything is unfortunately still on there, the a/c in all of it's inhibiting glory. Anyway, what do I do about the mounting brace bars that are for the A/C and the alternator? Reuse those stock bolts? Will I need spacers to make up for the slack in the bolt?

Can this be done without jacking the motor up? Does the starter have to be removed for the install?

NOTE: I don't mind installing them from the bottom.

 

i just installed these on my car. they sound ****in awsome! for the alt bracket i was able to use it without modification. as for the AC bracket i had to cut one side off....in your instructions it should have a picture of what to cut. if not, you will see when you go to remount it. if you dont have any air tools you will need a hack saw etc. its kind of a big peice you cut off.

mine were installed on my 87 with 4 different belts. if yours is 88 and up you may have to alter your alternater bracket. but i think the instructions should have come with pictures of what you need to cut off.

i recomend changine your spark plugs while your old manifolds are out.
but from now on you need to cut a spark plug socket (with 19mm 6point end) you will need to cut about 1/4-1/2inch off the tip and cut a slit big enough for the plug to fit inside the socket. while still having enough points on the socket to grip the plug properly.

if you want a pic of my modified socket let me know.....

i also had to cut a wrench in half to tighten the bolt nearest the firewall on the passenger side.

 

Yes send a pic please, that would help.

I plan on putting the new plugs in before I install the headers so no problem there.

I don't think mine came with instructions? It all came in a box. So I'm not sure, but what needs to be cut off of the A/C bracket? Can you please post a pic of that?

 

if i go to work tomorow i will get a pic of it. if not then tuesday for sure. or if someone else here knows a link to one you can buy online then im sure itle have a pic.

 

Also, for good plug wires, buy a set of plug wires for any L98 vette. They are 8mm much better than the F-body wires at pretty much the same price.

 

I already bought everything like two months ago, I bought MSD spark plug wires.

I heard that for some cars the AIR tubes are backwards, I have a stock L03 TBI and I was looking the night that everything arrived and it looked like it would fit but I'm not certain, can anyone clarify this?