So I bought some hedman 68460 longtube headers from summit the other day and just got them installed this afternoon. Took me about 4-5 hours to get them on. The pass. side probably took 20 minutes lol. All I did was removed the starter on the pass. side and dip stick of course. The drivers I had to do a little denting around the k-member and on the collector by the slave cylinder.

I know someone is going to complain about denting but it has to be done on a manual trans with these headers or you have to cut and weld an offset on the collector and I dont have a welder at the time...wish I did. I didn't install new motor mounts but idk how bad they really are. They may have helped around the k-member.

I am really glad I decided to do the headers, because I found loose sparkplugs, missing and loose header bolts, and lots of leaks. I was planning a tune up soon anyways. The previous owner just sucked lol. The headers are just hanging on right now till tomorrow. I might repaint them with header paint but idk yet because I would have to get the factory paint off. Also, the s-bends and y-collector come tomorrow. I am just hooking it up to the cat back for now till I can do dual all the way back.

I plan on wrapping the header around the slave cylinder even though some say it's bad for the header but idk what to do. Maybe I can wrap the slave cylinder instead idk. I know you want pics so I will get them tomorrow also.

 

What type of heads are you using? I have the same set of the Hedmans i tried putting on when I put my zz4/vortec headed motor in..Engine was still on the stand and the last 2 bolt holes toward the firewall would not line up... I guess it was due to the Vortecs?

 

I have the l98 aluminum heads. Looks like I am going to cut the ball socket on the drivers side and extend it so it clears the slave cylinder better.

 

So the ball & socket flange is what hits the slave? I was planning on a set of these headers and run the same trans. Do you have any pics of the install?

 

Ya I will have pics soon. Well the collector itself hits so you can dent it and it's good, but the headers used to be a 3 bolt flange. Now they make them in a ball and socket which causes more problems when you go to hook up the socket end. Here is someone else who did it when they still made them with a flat flange.
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/590890/3

 

Yeah i'd love to see some pics. I have not yet seen long tubes on a street legal 3rd gen. I bet it's awesome... 4 hours sounds like a total beach though

 

4 hours plus today and tomorrow lol. That is mainly because any cutting is done by a hack saw......it sucks. Also, today has just been making the y pipe. Going to find a welder and band saw tomorrow.

 

Ok here is a few pics. Look at that y pipe that was on there for the hooker shorties. Talk about restrictive and leaky. The shorties were leaking at the heads, before y, and after y at the cat back.

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?ai...7&l=d21f4054f3

 

i ran the hedman 1 5/8 long tubes with s-bends, summit h-pipe and turn downs.

 

i have hedman longtubes and a tremec tko. i had to have the drivers side header extended down and then it cleared the slave cylinder. no dents. i'll post pics when i get home.

 

you can see where it was lengthened.

 

Well I have the headers on and driver's side from collector to y done. Just have to bolt up the clamps on the pass. side. The driver's side fit just great but the pass. was kinda a pain. It doesn't look every even but I'll maybe change it at a later time. Hopefully have it finished tomorrow and pics and video to come after. Oh and have to fix the temp. probe I broke. The hedman's kinda suck because they sit up higher and you have to get around the trans. crossmember.

 

Last year I ran the headman long tubes on my 85 TA with a true dual exhaust that I made. I had to put a small dent in the driver side header to make it fit by the K member without rubbing on it. Other than that I did the same thing, drop the starter and the pass side goes right in. (in my case I dont have a dipstick on that side of the engine) That was with an auto trans, this year I am installing a T56. Other than the cross member for my part of the exhuast, whats this I hear about the slave? I'm trying to picture exactly where it will be, does the header come back that far and at the same level as the slave? I hope I dont have to scrap most of my exhaust! I have a full day of cutting fitting and welding this exhaust. --true dual out the back with 2 mufflers, run in mostly the stock location, tucked up close.

 

i can see how you did the underside but why go into a single pipe when you could have kept them duals and run them on either side of the driveshaft?
but it looks like nice work.
am i going to run into problems with the brake slave or the starter, when i put my 2055's on a 305?

 

Idk about him but I went into a single because I want to do dual all the way back and don't have the materials or money right now to do that.

 

ended up single to try and save as much ground clearance as possible. my car already sits really low and the way i drive, one big bump would wipe out true duals. i hated to do it but that is the reason. hopefully when i get electric cutouts on, it won't be an issue anymore, performance wise.

 

Ok lets try this again my internet messed up my last post and it was pretty long lol..

Headers are on and y-pipe is done. Still need to check for leaks and such. I started it up earlier and it sound awesome. The old exhaust was leaking right under my feet, check out the old y pipe. I am going to cut the a-arm on the drivers side because it hits some and I need to put some header wrap on the collector so I don't burn up the slave cylinder and fuel lines. Pass. side y is ok looking but drivers looks just how I wanted it too. Don't mind the rtv silicone all over the clamps. I wanted to make sure everything sealed. Right now I'm running the Hedman gaskets but will upgrade when I get a few more bucks to Percy's and locking bolts. Going to go 1 1/2 in because thats what was on it and some of the 1in don't tighten because the holes were slightly stripped out. Also put in new ngk tr-55 plugs. Will get new wires soon. Need to put in a hanger too so I don't have all that weight on the headers.

Does anyone know if I can get a new coolant sending unit that is in the pic? I can find factory ones but I don't think it is. I have an aftermarket one right now because the factory one didn't work...previous owners work. I might just buy a new gauge for the price. The old one broke when I hit it with the header and it popped out and I can't get it back in. Also would this be a mechanical gauge or electric? Thanks

Link to pics...
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?ai...7&l=d21f4054f3

 

I went out and just bought a new temp gauge so that is fixed. Car sounds great and I can really tell it flows better and has more power. I will get a sound clip up sometime.