i recently order a set of edelbrock headers for my 91 Z28 with dual cats off of summit. im waiting for them to come in and was just wondering if anyone has these or as any advice about them, installation or clearance problems ect. Part number:EDL-68762

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ED...2/?image=large

 

i have the same headers in my 87 and they fit very well but i cut the EGR stuff off them

 

almost the worst flowing headers available for our cars...

good luck!

 

thanks for the positive feedback...i didnt ask if they were good or not i asked if i should know any tips or advice with them

 

yah the flow is so bad it will shave 1 sec off your 0-60 you will like them man good choice. in the last 7 years i have had hookers headers in my book junk and gibson headers.for the last 4 and a half years i have had the edelbrock headers and love them i can get to my starter and all my plugs without a problem

 

and let me add smog legal

 

yeah thats why i bought em cause i still need to pass inspection.
They look like perfectly good headers to me so im gonna give it a shot. thanks vangogh

 

longtubes or nothing...this is hotrodding, bolt-ons never are

 

Matt, can you back this up with data? I ran Edelbrock shorties on my IROC for years and I loved them, I even had them wrapped and they looked like new when I sold them after 5 years and 30K+ miles on them. I get kind of tired of people bashing them just because the collectors aren't perfectly made.

The fact is that for 99% of guys these headers are going on stock or bolt-on motors and they are way better than the manifolds. The difference between these headers and Hooker shorties is undetectable I'm sure. Anyone that is going to be hurt by the way Edelbrock has done their collector should be running long tubes or custom headers anyway.

These are great budget headers for bolt-on street car guys, nothing more nothing less.

 

i'd rather keep the stock manifolds and run a mandrel bent y-pipe, which is where you're going to see gains anyway on a stock car.

no data, just personal experience. those headers are hard to work with, and have seen et gains by going to a set of hookers with a well built y-pipe.

 

OK, fantastic, thats exactly what I'm looking for. Do you have any before and after data to go with the ET gains? Were they ET gains or trap speed gains? If you've got data to prove edelbrocks hurt power then I'll shut up right now and retract all my statements defending Edelbrock shorty headers.

 

et, on stockish setup, the hookers are worth about .1 and about 1mph over the edelbrocks. not much, but worth the extra few dollars if you're buying headers for the first time. i'm also talking about 2460's, with a y-pipe i built.

 

these are the first headers im buying and im not exactly worried about .1 sec or 1 mph, thats not a big deal to me im not draggin i just want my car to be somewhat faster and also pass inspection and emissions. i think that these headers are perfect for me. im only 17 and im doing this in my driveway so again no need to try and shoot down the edelbrock headers

 

hookers was the first headers i put into my 87 LT a year later the rust was so bad i took them off and put them into the garbage

 

I have them on my 85 Trans Am, they fit fine and I have had no issues. Like you I have to pass an emissions inspection which limits the choices of
what I could use. You made the right choice.

 

Thanks i think i did too. did you see any big increases in horsepower and also sound?

 

I installed a set of 350 edelbrock headers on my 86 305 last summer. The engine was pretty bare at the time and I was sble to get them in without lifting the engine from it's mounts. ( they were single cat style.)

I would advise you to install the oil dipstick tube BEFORE setting the pass side header bolts !! I didn't the first time and had to take the pass header off again in order to get the dipstick in ( Like an - I forgot to check first ! )

 

thats because you didnt sandblast them and paint them correctly. The black coating on them from the factory is so they don't rust in the warehouse....

 

I have an 89 GTA that I want to get more out of. What type of headers would you suggest, and why? No emition problems here at all!
I am stock right now, I am thinking of going with a small cam, small bore, and 10.5 pistons. Just a small boost for fun driving.

 

longtube headers of your choice. if you're looking for all out power, the shorties leave alot on the table. going with a longtube will yield better power under the curve. hooker makes better quality then hedman, and has a larger 1 3/4" primary...but it's hard to beat the price tag on the hedmans.

 

If thats all you want go with shorties and maintain your ground clearance. Especially if you plan to lower the car. The power difference we're talking here is probably less than 10hp...

 

tip 1 : buy better gaskets, includet ones burned on my car within 1 month
tip 2 : Y-pipe needs modification, at the exit where pipes merge, some idiot designed it by bending them, replace that part with straight pipes will improve performance

best regards

 

I have Edelbrocks on my Trans Am, Yes i do realize they are not the "best" shortie headers for our cars. But 150x's better than stock manifolds. No fitment problems here either. Longtubes are great. If youre car lives at a track, or youre not at all concerened about clearence or emmisions. On my next build ill be going with Dyno Dons probably. IMO, Longtubes arent worth it on our street cars, not for 1 or 2 MPH at the 1/4 mile anyway. If i had a carbed beast that revved to 6500+ and setup for drag racing, Then of course id go Longs. But not for a streetcar with TPI.

 

Didn't feel a huge power difference. Did notive nice change in exhaust tone.

 

There isn't any "EGR stuff" on headers.

 

Don't know if they've updated the installation instructions but on both sets of Edelbrocks I've used on my car they claim they can be installed from the top. Save yourself the hassle and drop the starter and slip the passenger side in from the bottom and be carefull of the fan switch at the rear of the head. Also, now is the best ever time to change the plugs and wires, get yourself a set of quality wires you can cut to length and terminate yourself for a better fit and appearance.

 

I have these hedders on my z28. Installed them 3 years ago. If I recall correctly, the drivers side installed from the top, the passenger, from the bottom, with the starter removed. Mine are ceramic coated and still look pretty good. I also deleted the cats and installed a Dyno Max cat back exhaust, with a few mods (test pipe?) and it sounds great, nice idle sound and great WOT sound. I am very happy with it. Randy

 

@Mongoose - i've managed to install them from the top

best regards

 

I have had mine now for 3 years and like them. I got mine in from the top but had to jack the motor up about 1/2" to get the passenger side on.

 

yeah, clearance with longtubes is terrible

 

mw66nova....were not discussing whether long tubes or shorties are better we all know long tubes are. i just asked for installation tips which people are giving me and thank you very much for that..its gonna make my life a lot easier. i think im gonna try and go from the top first and see how it works out but worse comes to worse ill take the starter out like you said and drop it from underneath. thank a lot guys really appreciate this....keep em coming

 

folks said clearance sucked...i was mearly showing that it doesn't always have to.

 

You said that the Hooker 1.75" (2210) primary headers were best, so I thought that is all you'd run. Neither of those car have been lowered, and neither of them have 2210s. If they had 2210s I'd be able to see them, I know because its what I'm running. Here is how low 2210s hang....





You must be running the 1 5/8s LTs?

 

the white car is lowered, has an ls1 with hawks longtubes, dual 3" pipes into a single 4" in that picture.

the red car is lowered now, has hedman longtubes. dual 2.5" into single 3.5" in that picture. i'll be sure to get updated pics, even though there are pics of these cars all over this board.

1meanz, i highly recommend you build a better transmission crossmember that will allow the pipes to hug the tunnel better. both of those cars have mighly modded transmission crossmembers.

 

Anything is better than stock manifolds. I dropped .4 and gained 2mph going from stock manifolds/Y to 2055's and their 3" Ypipe.

 

Do you have a/c and did you have to jack the engine up?

 

You are correct and it is in the works. I'm re-doing my exhaust along with my C4 IRS swap currently in progress (see fabrication board). My point was that no matter what I do with the cross member, the header collectors are where they are. You can see the flanges in the pics.

 

Thats a great gain. Thats enough that I imagine you can feel it in the seat of the pants.

 

I have been running a set of these for 9 years with a Borla cat back system. I had a problem with the brake line a couple months ago where it crystlised the brake fluid. Pay attention to the brake lines. Get some retainer header bolts and also do what Mongoose said about changing the wires and plugs. It will not be easy after you put the headers on.

If you want to turn heads with a bone stock 305 get the Borla cat back system. I have had many people come up to me and think I had a 350.

 

Having headers makes it 10x easier to do plugs and wires, are you kidding? I have the Edelbrock headers and Y-pipe only because I got them brand new for $200 plus an 80 series muffler. The collectors are horrible! the don't merge smoothly, they're crushed into a triangular shape greatly reducing the cross section width of the primaries before dumping into the actual collector. Next time I get headers they will be LT's or Dyno Dons if I still have the 700r4.

As for the install, it went pretty well. they actually slid in much easier on the passenger side than the 2055's do. The driver's side was a pain in the *** though.

 

The headers on mine made it harder to change the plugs because I have 2 on the drivers side and 3 on the passengers side that are covered by the header pipes coming from the head. The only way to change them is to go from under the car with a wrench and socket. Mine have a 3 inch collector with each side going into a D-shape to the collector. I don't know which set you have but it does not seem to be the same as mine.

 

I guess there where my double flex head ratchet makes things easier.

 

Here are some pics of my setup. The top 2 are from the drivers side. The bottom pic is from the passenger side. These where not a cake walk to install.