Gen3FTW

What's everyones opinion of the Edelbrock TES headers for a 305 TPI?
The AIR system is removed.

Mad_IROC-Z

I have always used them. Being in California they are the easiest to find with a CARB EO# needed to pass inspection.
But if you're going to use them get the ceramic coated. The painted is not great paint. Even says paint is just for shipping and should be sanded and repainted witha high temp paint. The Ti-Tech is ok but the set I put on my mom's S10 have gotten rusted areas on it. But it does get hard and has not burned off.

hellz_wings

iTrader: (2)

I bought the car with these headers installed already. They are completely surface rusted so I'm guessing they were not the ceramic coated version! They sound good though! And I blocked off the AIR part of these although if I could do it again I would get non-AIR headers just to remove that extra tubing for where the AIR system goes so it would look cleaner.

Gen3FTW

Ya mine have been modified so they are completely Non-AIR.
They are the coated. The coating is amazing btw. When I was welding the AIR holes shut an acetylene torch wouldn't even take the coating off.
But i'm wondering if i would gain any performance get some hooker 2055s or something?

hellz_wings

iTrader: (2)

I would love to know this as well! What I would like is: Nicer looking headers, one without air tubes, and more power! My heads were ported by the previous owner, how would this affect a new header purchase? Would I have to port the new header to match the head or could I just install it as is? Thanks!

Gen3FTW

Well it depends if he enlarged the exhaust port or not.
But any opinions on the Hookers vs Edelbrock headers for performance?

The Project

iTrader: (6)

I run Edelbrock's with AIR. Decent headers for the price.

Just had them coated when I swapped in the 305 TPI.

hellz_wings

iTrader: (2)

How much did the coating cost?

The Project

iTrader: (6)

$225 including taxes and sandblasting.

Got them done at www.birdsperformancecoatings.com

They are near Niagara Falls and have a very good reputation for quality. They also do powder coating.

Before


After



Very happy with the results.

88WS-6

I'm getting my used set of hooker 2055s baking powder blasted and then powder coated. I had Edelbrock TES with AIR on my old 1986 Trans Am LG4 and they were good for the price. They were uncoated though, and after two years they were rusted and my passenger side one developed a leak at the gasket.

~Matt

hellz_wings

iTrader: (2)

Do you get more power with your hooker 2055s??

KiLLJ0Y

iTrader: (1)

i dont like them, one look at them should inform you...

look at the driver side primaries near the collector.. they smash them in there, like worse than a crush bent exhaust tube. might be ok for lower power 305's..

Sparkytfl

I have them. With pathetic 2 1/4 collectors, and a ypipe with 2 1/4 outlet. I guess some of them have 2 1/2 for each. Only got them because they were used and I needed to replace the stock manifolds i broke the studs on.

Good thing is they fit in without having to lift or tilt the engine.

Bad thing is the design (mostly the air tubes) prevents me from putting the spark wires in from the top, and its a lot more difficult to route them from underneath. That and the poor flow.

stoutz28

i have a set of Edelbrock's on my 91 gta and they look nice. The Y pipe has a 3" collector that fit my magnaflow cat back great

hellz_wings

iTrader: (2)

So, for a fully modified 305 (TPI all aftermarket, bored 0.030, cam, heads, forged internals, all bolt ons possible..) what set of headers would be better than this set? I have a 3 inch flowmaster catback exhaust and the stock catalytic converter but it's gutted. Thanks!

Sparkytfl

Probably the hooker 2055. And a new cat unless your gutted stock one is three inch.

FryeDaddy

iTrader: (1)

I have the air, but I HATE the air, because with my zz4 its impossible to change the spark plugs and etc. with the top part of headers. Now if I were to take it to a muffler shop to cut them off and cover holes, will there be any consequences?

hellz_wings

iTrader: (2)

I got mine cut off and welded shut. AIR was already removed but this cleans it up ALOT! The only thing now is I'm going to install a non-air 3" cat just because I feel like polluting less and not hurting my health by breathing in toxic fumes all the time..

88TransAmGuy

iTrader: (3)

I have a pair of the Emissons TES headers like you.I love them! I dont really see why people dislike them so much. Theyre the best sounding and longest lasting headers ive seen yet. IMO

FireDemonSiC

Gotta bring this post back since I just removed my edelbrock TES headers that were on the car when I bought it and installed a set of hooker 2055's.

IMO, these edelbrock headers are poorly designed and only a small step above stock manifolds. Like another user has already stated, the collectors are a BIG bottleneck. They smash and crush the primary tubes at the collectors which is a big restriction on the already small diameter primary tubes, Also, the primaries are all dimpled at the head for easier bolt access. Sure It's a PITA to get headers bolted up but I'd rather give some extra effort and have my car go faster than spend less time on the install only to go slower!

Finally, the straw that breaks the camel's back with these headers is the Y-Pipe. Where the Y joins the two tubes are crushed together in the same way the primary tubes are crushed at the collectors. These headers are not all that great and I'd really urge anyone who is thinking of buying a set to reconsider.

If anyone still wants to grab a set for cheap however I'd let my old ones go for $50 (Headers only Y-Pipe got destroyed in an offroading incident). They're going to the trash otherwise.

peterc005

Are Edelbrock TES Headers still available new?

FireDemonSiC

They are not. Edelbrock no longer makes them.

Dyno Don

iTrader: (7)

That's a good thing, they were worst than stock manifolds.
The ports are smaller and like was stated, the tubes are smashed at the collector.

To say nothing about they burn plug wires on the right side.

TA

iTrader: (1)

I purchased a set of Ededbrock TES headers (used) and when they arrived, I was appalled at how smashed and restrictive the design is, the coating had been rock nicked and rust had flourished underneath it, and the flange nuts had stripped out or broken off. I got a set of Hooker 2055s and threw the Edelbrocks in the garbage. Night and day difference in build quality, port size, primary size, and especially where the "designers" at Edelbrock crush everything into a tiny collector. Go get an SBC exhaust gasket and compare it visually to the port openings in the photos provided here, and you will get an idea why they are widely "disliked" on this site. I recently stepped up to Dyno Don headers and sold the Hookers (383 CID), but on a stock-ish 305, the Hookers would be a good choice.

I never saw the "y" pipe, and I can only imagine what a POS that must be. From what I have heard, Edelbrock is no longer in the Header business at all, none too soon.

...that should pretty much cover that.

BlackenedBird

iTrader: (5)

What is the non-emissions equal to the Hooker 2055? Or other non-emissions good choice?

hellz_wings

iTrader: (2)

Are they really worse than stock manifolds?? I find that hard to believe They look bigger than the stock manifolds and bigger=more air no? I'm not defending edelbrock at all, these headers aren't the nicest looking and mine are very much corroded, and the design isn't smart (my wheel rubs on them when @ full lock and yes they burn plug wires hence my recent purchase of wire covers to prevent this). But performance-wise and sound wise I would think they do the job .. My 305 (modded) has about 271HP and 354TQ at the engine and sounds pretty beastly lol.. Granted, I have a decent cam, and 3" cat back flowmaster exhaust..

Dyno Don, would your headers be good for my application or would they be "too much".. I will eventually be going to a 383 TPI one day..

Sparkytfl

I didnt have the problem with them burning my wires, but only because the design of the right side (with the one pipe crossing over the others, combined with the air tubes in the way) forced me to route the wires from underneath. Which forced me to use custom you-cut-them-to-length wires.

Dyno Don

iTrader: (7)

Measure those Edelcrocks again...the stock Chevy port is 1 1/2" X 1 1/2"
those POS headers are 1 1/14" across the port. They weld the tubes from the inside and don't grind them open to match the heads.

No, they would not be too much. Some like to theorize you would lose...not true, in most cases you gain torque from better air flow. I think you might lose if you fed them into a
3 1/2" catback tho.
They will be what you need when you upgrade. Then go to a 3 1/2" catback with the 383.

Rumblin70SS

Back in the day, the Edelbrock headers were worth about a tenth on my IROC. I did clean up how the air tubes entered the port though.

How much HP would your headers and Y pipe be worth on a stock 88 IROC? I would still need to run a cat to be emissions legal. Could I purchase the dual converter Y pipe in place of the single?

Confuzed1

iTrader: (4)

I've had my TES headers for about 8 years already. I have the plated ones. I agree, definately not the best breathing headers out there, but better than the stock manifolds IMO. Better suited for a 305 than a 350+.
They don't work so well on my 400.

I've never burned any plug wires on either side, but as with ANY headers, you need to be super careful where you run the plugs wires. I have the air tubes capped.

I'll have 'em up for sale this winter as I need badly to upgrade. Believe it or not, I still have Dyno Don's headers to install that I bought a good 6 months ago! Anyways the TES have been great headers overall - especially when I ran my 305.

ninetyone

iTrader: (2)

Don, should i buy the round port 1.5 X 1.5 header gaskets or the square ports for my 91 083 stock heads? Last time i used the edelbrock 6923 header gaskets that are for the headers, i had to cut and elongate the port holes to match the heads. I have blown 2 sets out already.

dfarr67

iTrader: (2)

Have them on my truck- no complaints.

Dyno Don

iTrader: (7)

Use the Earl's #29DD3BERL
I have had the bolts fall out and still didn't blow the gaskets.
They also have replacement inserts so you don't have the buy the whole gaskets when the need arises.

FireDemonSiC

I'm appalled at how many people are complimenting these headers.

Not ragging on you guys but c'mon, after I saw how horrible the design was I simply don't see how these POS's can increase power levels other than through placebo effect.

I noticed a LARGE difference in the upper RPM's after I installed my Hooker setup and ditched the flowmaster. These simply choke the motor way to much too be any more efficient than stock manifolds. I can see them MAYBE helping with scavenging but that's about it.

hellz_wings

iTrader: (2)

FireDemon we both have 310ci engines (TPI, but I have 700R4 auto).. I have Edelbrock's but would it be worth it for me at the moment to get better headers like hooker or Dyno Don's 1 3/4" headers?

ninetyone

iTrader: (2)

I remember seeing the Edelbrock headers advertised in Summit racing and stated that they can increase 0-60 times by up to a full second.

FireDemonSiC

I call complete BS on that one. Like I said, they might help scavenging a little bit due to the now tuned primary length vs log manifolds, but the design is way too restrictive to promote healthy breathing.

When I took a turn too wide barreling down a country road and went offroading, I smashed my Y-Pipe almost shut then discovered I was going to have to replace the entire exhaust setup because they don't make the Y-Pipe anymore. The catback was already a 3" into 2x 2.5" but it was so badly rusted together that it wouldn't be able to accept anything new without doing it all ghetto with all sorts of pinch clamps and slip fittings.

I removed the entire exhaust setup from the engine back, went with a hooker 2055 headers and y-pipe system into a 3"/2x 2.5" straight pipe system with no cat and no muffler. Dyno Don makes an excellent set of headers but IMO it is overkill for any 305 variant and might actually hurt performance if there is a loss in exhaust gas velocity due to the oversized primary tubes for a 305. He would know this better than I would however so you should ask him.

I noticed a LARGE difference in power above 4000RPM, a bit too considerable to be contributed to the muffler delete alone IMO.

Just look at these pictures I took of the edelbrock system before I threw it in the garbage. Like Don said, they weld the primary tubes from the INSIDE creating a restrictive ridge along the inside of the header. These headers are bad enough to start with with the small primary tube diameter. To add insult to injury, they SMASH all the primary tubes together at the collectors and do the same thing where the Y-pipe comes together.

The first time I noticed the way the primary tubes were crushed at the collectors I actually thought for a minute that something at one time or another the car ran over had flew up and damaged the headers.

FireDemonSiC

Compare to the hookers I replaced them with.

hellz_wings

iTrader: (2)

That Edelbrock statement about slashing a full second of the 1/4 mile is very bull.. I had them on my car when I bought it, I did some mods since then (3.73 posi, alum driveshaft, engine and bolt on mods like cam, heads, bored, porting, aftermarket tpi, custom PROM tuning, full 3" cat back exhaust, amazing new grippy firehawk wide oval tires, over 250lbs of weight reduction, etc. etc. check my sig for more) And my car now does 14.2xx on the 1/4 mile.. Stock 305 TPI's did something like mid 15 second no? So yeah just by looking at all the mods I have done since, it's obviously clear that the headers did not do much if anything at all for the 1/4 mile..

crate28

Hey Fire Demon...Which Hookers are these? 2460? Do you really need the y-pipe coated?

FireDemonSiC

They're the 2055's. I looked into the 2460's but the Y-Pipe sucks. You don't have to coat the Y-Pipe but it really helps in prolonging it against rust.

norcalz28

iTrader: (13)

Hedman and Hooker both make CA legal headers that are far superior for a marginally higher price. The hookers fit like a glove, hedmans require a bit more persuading to find their place. If you don't want to do the job again and seriously want to improve exhaust flow, don't waste your money on TES headers.

Will

zenish

what ever header you buy ,buy a coated one.i bought the edelbrock headers and then had to find someone to coat them.it pissed me off the headers came with a sticker telling me i needed to get my brand new headers sandblasted and repainted.

FireDemonSiC

There is a way to DIY. The coating you see in the pics was done by me.

What I did when I first got the headers and Y-Pipe was use aircraft stripper, lacquer thinner and a steel toothbrush style brush to get rid of the black paint they ship with. 1 can of aircraft stripper was just enough for everything but if I had it to do over again I'd use 2 to make the job alot easier.

SATURATE the headers with the aircraft stripper, let it soak in real good about 15 - 20 minutes then start scrubbing it all off with the steel brush. A pressure washer is good for blasting it all away but I used a garden hose to spray away all the stripped gunk while I scrubbed. The stubborn spots that started to loosen up but didn't completely strip off I hit with lacquer thinner which finished them off and allowed me to scrub them away. You won't get it all the first try. You'll need to dry it off and repeat this process about 2 - 3 times before it will completely stripped. You won't get every single molecule of paint removed down in the nooks and crannies where the primary tubes meet with the collectors but get as much as you can. Where the tubes come close to each other and almost touch I found slipping a piece of sandpaper in there and rubbing it back and forth like a belt across the tubes works well.

Do the same for the Y-Pipe, then they need to be 100% DRY. I dried them in a matter of about 15 minutes by using an air compressor to blast all the moisture off. Be sure you get it down really good in the nooks and crannies. Next, hang them in the air and prep them for paint. I used a chain that hangs from our upper deck which is where a punching bag used to be. I then sprayed them completely down with the nastiest carb cleaner I could find as surface prep, hit them with the compressor again and waited another 10 minutes. Then I used the VHT flameproof header paint. Personally I liked the aluminum finish more but they also have it in flat black. 2 cans were JUST enough to do all 3 pieces but if I had it to do again I'd go for 3 cans and have a little leftover.

Spray them evenly and allow about 10 - 15 minutes between each coat. I spray the coats on progressively heavier as I go. The first coat was very light and acted as sort of a primer. The next coat I laid it on medium and the final coat I did a heavier (Not too much or it will sag like no tomorrow) wet coat. Allow them to cure for 12 - 24 hours, then toss the headers into the oven. IIRC the baking process goes as followed:

200F 30 minutes > remove and cool for 30 minutes > 400F 30 minutes > remove and cool 30 minutes > 600F 30 minutes > remove and cool.

My oven didn't go past 525 so the final bake I did them at 525 for 45 minutes.

The Y-Pipe is where you have to develop a precise technique because it is too big to fit in the oven and you have to cure it with a propane torch. It really helps to hang the Y-Pipe for this step. I cured it 3 times. The first time I held the torch far so the full flame could be seen and only the heat from the flame was hitting the Y-Pipe. The second time I got the flame a little closer to just the tip of the flame was barely grazing the Y-Pipe. The third time I got the flame right up on the pipe so it was kissing it. The third step is where you have to really be careful because if you hold the flame in the same spot for too long it will burn the paint. Take your time while curing and do not rush. IMO to properly cure the Y-Pipe it should take you around 30 minutes to an hour for each stage. I went over the Y-Pipe twice in each stage from one end to the other then back again. Also be mindful of which propane you get. There is a kind in a yellow can that gets REALLY hot and I wouldn't recommend using this one.

Also, when you get to the Y-Pipe part DO NOT do this in an enclosed room. propane gives off carbon monoxide as it burns and the time it takes to cure the Y-Pipe will fill the room up with a decent amount of it. I'd recommend a well ventilated room or better yet do it outside. I absentmindedly cured my Y-Pipe inside and got freaked out when I lost consciousness 4 hours later after standing up too fast.

It sounds complicated but It's really not. This was my first time and I think it turned out really good. Just take your time and get a feel for it as you go and you will be OK. Total cost for supplies was around $50 BTW.

Here is a recent picture of my engine bay showing the passenger side header a little under 2 months later. Does it look like the coating burned off to you?

IROCgiraffe

iTrader: (3)

Anyone have the part number of these Edelbrock TES headers/y-pipe that fit the TPI? Was it the 68742 / 68743

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

I think it depends on the headers and year. Some fit the stock y pipe .
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/engi...ck-y-pipe.html

1991sleeper

iTrader: (-3)

[QUOTE="FireDemonSiC;5155204"]

There is a way to DIY. The coating you see in the pics was done by me.

What I did when I first got the headers and Y-Pipe was use aircraft stripper, lacquer thinner and a steel toothbrush style brush to get rid of the black paint they ship with. 1 can of aircraft stripper was just enough for everything but if I had it to do over again I'd use 2 to make the job alot easier.

SATURATE the headers with the aircraft stripper, let it soak in real good about 15 - 20 minutes then start scrubbing it all off with the steel brush. A pressure washer is good for blasting it all away but I used a garden hose to spray away all the stripped gunk while I scrubbed. The stubborn spots that started to loosen up but didn't completely strip off I hit with lacquer thinner which finished them off and allowed me to scrub them away. You won't get it all the first try. You'll need to dry it off and repeat this process about 2 - 3 times before it will completely stripped. You won't get every single molecule of paint removed down in the nooks and crannies where the primary tubes meet with the collectors but get as much as you can. Where the tubes come close to each other and almost touch I found slipping a piece of sandpaper in there and rubbing it back and forth like a belt across the tubes works well.

Do the same for the Y-Pipe, then they need to be 100% DRY. I dried them in a matter of about 15 minutes by using an air compressor to blast all the moisture off. Be sure you get it down really good in the nooks and crannies. Next, hang them in the air and prep them for paint. I used a chain that hangs from our upper deck which is where a punching bag used to be. I then sprayed them completely down with the nastiest carb cleaner I could find as surface prep, hit them with the compressor again and waited another 10 minutes. Then I used the VHT flameproof header paint. Personally I liked the aluminum finish more but they also have it in flat black. 2 cans were JUST enough to do all 3 pieces but if I had it to do again I'd go for 3 cans and have a little leftover.

Spray them evenly and allow about 10 - 15 minutes between each coat. I spray the coats on progressively heavier as I go. The first coat was very light and acted as sort of a primer. The next coat I laid it on medium and the final coat I did a heavier (Not too much or it will sag like no tomorrow) wet coat. Allow them to cure for 12 - 24 hours, then toss the headers into the oven. IIRC the baking process goes as followed:

200F 30 minutes > remove and cool for 30 minutes > 400F 30 minutes > remove and cool 30 minutes > 600F 30 minutes > remove and cool.

My oven didn't go past 525 so the final bake I did them at 525 for 45 minutes.

The Y-Pipe is where you have to develop a precise technique because it is too big to fit in the oven and you have to cure it with a propane torch. It really helps to hang the Y-Pipe for this step. I cured it 3 times. The first time I held the torch far so the full flame could be seen and only the heat from the flame was hitting the Y-Pipe. The second time I got the flame a little closer to just the tip of the flame was barely grazing the Y-Pipe. The third time I got the flame right up on the pipe so it was kissing it. The third step is where you have to really be careful because if you hold the flame in the same spot for too long it will burn the paint. Take your time while curing and do not rush. IMO to properly cure the Y-Pipe it should take you around 30 minutes to an hour for each stage. I went over the Y-Pipe twice in each stage from one end to the other then back again. Also be mindful of which propane you get. There is a kind in a yellow can that gets REALLY hot and I wouldn't recommend using this one.

I did the same exact thing to mine ... I used
The vht ceramic header coating from auto zone .. got about 1000 miles on the new build and its still holding up fine

Sent from my XT907 using IB AutoGroup