First of all, as far as I know, the Hooker 2055 headers are only available with the AIR connections, is that correct?

My LG4 does not have the AIR system on it, as it was (and still is) not required under Alberta law. If the 2055's come with the connection, what should I do with them? I think that cutting off and welding over it would be the best, and I saw that idea when I searched. I will fall back on that if there are no other options, but I would have to get someone else to do that, which costs money, which I do not have much of.

So, my ideas for alternatives are: A) Just leave them there, open to the air (is that bad?) or B) Try to find some sort of little plug that will just slip on to the end of it and stop air from going in or out.

Any other ideas are appreciated! Thank you in advance!

 

Cut them off, drill them out, tap them, and put pipe plugs in.

 

Seems like a lot of work. Is it possible to cut the pipes and bend the end over?

Good thing about the Hooker 2460 is that they have no AIR plumbing.

Wish Hooker had the option to exclude AIR plumbing from the 2055.

 

Try these from TDS: (http://www.top-downsolutions.com/pow...079478fa72af83)

 

the down side with the hooker 2046's is that the hooker y pipe is crazy expensive, its either fork out the cash, or have a y pipe made at an exhaust shop. and i think the hooker pipe goes from the 3" collector to a 2.5 in pipe too.

 

Thanks for the replies, I'm sure I'll figure something out if I order them. I agree with you peter, I wish you could get the 2055's without AIR. And I did already look at the 2046's, but the y-pipe is hard to find and expensive when you do.

I wish I could get Dyno Dons! But shipping to Canada is just crazy, and I just can't justify having a quarter of the final price spent on shipping.

Just want a final answer on this: is it bad to leave the AIR tubes open?

Thanks!

 

You could leave the tubes on if you capped the ends or maybe left the check valves on. Leaving them open isn't an option.

 

That's a bummer. You'd think Hooker would bolt on, rather than weld, the AIR fittings like the OEM.

 

Welding is cheaper on headers, and screwing-in is cheaper on manifolds.

 

Bingo....

 

Can the cut, tap, plug method be done while the headers are still mounted to the engine in the bay?

 

Yes

 

Might even be easier that way.