AUZ28

New Y pipe
Modified Steering shaft minus top uni (which is on column)
My car as it sits waiting till next weekend

peterc005

Is that the stock Hooker Y-Pipe?

AUZ28

Yeah that's the one you get with the 2055. Two 2.5" into 3"

The reason I bought the 2055 was cause it came with the y pipe.

peterc005

What are you using for the rest of the exhaust?

AUZ28

HKR 16823 3" cat back with aero chamber exhaust. Doesn't sound as good as the super turbo I had. Not sure what part no. It was. But that was running the aero with the logs and **** 2.1/4" exhaust.

AUZ28

Got the header back from the exhaust shop today. Should be able to fit on the weekend. Can't wait

AUZ28

Not too ugly

AUZ28

I'm goin to be wrapping them anyways. So not too concerned that it's not smooth.

AUZ28

rh side in. Tight but fits

AUZ28

.

AUZ28

Magnaflow hi flow 3" cat installed. Whole system is in and sounds unbelievable !!!! Truly sounds like a different car, soo glad I went with the hookers. All up total cost fitted. $1700.

peterc005

You're not using a catytic converter?

Any problems hooking the Hooker Y pipe to the Magnaflow exhaust?

How low did it sit?

AUZ28

The little bulge at the front there is the 3" hi flow magnaflow cat converter it's only about 3.5" diameter, I had a look through it before installation and you can just look right through it.

I'm running slightly modified Hooker 2055's with the Y pipe that comes with it. The cat back is Hooker 16823, it had a 3" ball flange on it where it would normally bolt to the stock cat but I cut that off and put in a bit of 3" pipe with the cat and two flanges each end.

I'm yet to wrap it, just been driving it all weekend. I'll take my SLR to work and get some photos of the whole system. iPhone camera is pretty lame.

marobird

TreeFiddy did you do the RHD conversion yourself?
I'm about to buy an IROC here and looking into converting to RHD.

peterc005

@TreeFiddy - any progress on your stainless headers?

AUZ28 - any more pics?

calais215

Sounds silly....but has anyone checked or measured to see if hq-wb small block headers would fit or fit with little modification?

peterc005

Interesting idea, do you mean these?

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/like/3307...=true&lpid=107

http://atracingworld.com.au/p-357-ho...rs-ph5325.aspx

Not sure they would clear the cross-member?

peterc005

One site seems to list the Pacemaker PH5310 as fitting both HQ Holden and Camaro:

Code: PH5310 Order Qty:
P/MAKER SBC HQ-WB/CAMARO EXTRACTORS

AUZ28

Looking at those I doubt they would fit. The crossmember sits just below the middle exhaust ports. Headers need to exit further rearward. They might suit Gen 1 or 2 camaro's but not third gens.

calais215

Wss just a thought...cause im in the same boat....I feel that 1.5 primaries wont be real good for 350 vortec head with gm hot cam and stealth ram....seems like only real way to go is custom....yet they'll nearly cost as much as my engine lol........what bout earlier holden with chev like hg ht hk?

peterc005

I've been playing around with the idea of using Dyno Dons (Top Down Solutions) headers.

Looking at the pictures, do you think they'd fit?

peterc005

@TreeFiddy - any joy with your stainless steel headers?

AUZ28

Finally got around to wrapping my headers last weekend

AUZ28

And the other side

peterc005

Have you driven the car with the new exhaust?

AUZ28

Yeah. . I have been driving on it for a year now. Sounds great. Just fitted sub frame connectors and while I had the exhaust half apart I decided to wrap the headers to keep the under bonnet heat down. The old cast logs were great for keeping the heat down.

peterc005

Notice much difference driving it?

evilstuie

Hey Guys,

I'm in this same boat now. I already had extractors on my 85 firebird, and one of the first things i did to it was to change the 3" single exhaust over to a full 2.5" dual exhaust system, which sounded great with the 350sbc crate motor.

I've got a 400sbc going in with angled afr heads, and the spark plugs are in the way on #3 and #4 cylinders which is just another roadblock for my build.

I tried a set of block huggers but they didn't clear the plugs either, andI have a set of pacemaker headers but not sure if the collectors will clear near the firewall, so I'm left with 2 options.

Cut the header pipes on each side for #3 and #4 and get someone to weld in a sharper angle to clear the pipwa on the 1.5" headers.

Or, install the pacemakers and get an exhaust shop to connect them up to the catback system.

I've alread cut the custom headers to do the first option, but the pacemakers are larger tubes and would breathe a lot better.

evilstuie

Anyone tried these?

Clipsters 9300108H
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/CHEV-S-B-...QAAOSwLVZVpjBw

I'm about to buy a pair as they look like they might fit without too much of a fight.
Is there any other way to relocate or remount the steering linkage further to the right?

LX_SS

From the slight memory of the shorty headers i had on my small block, they look similar to what did fit somewhat well, they still had to be modified but it wasn't much.

A lot is just trial and error, i'm not sure if you have issues with the outlets on those either.

As far as the steering shaft goes, basically no. You'd have to add a universal at the box end for it to have any movement, otherwise you'd chew out the seals in no time.
Also you need more universals, 1 at the end of the column that has more movement than that stock unit and then one in the middle, plus the need of a support bearing(rod end). Plus being the stock setup you might have some nasty angles causing binding, its been a long time since i've looked at a stock 3rd gen setup.

Like such, this is running 3 uni's to move the shaft as close to the strut tower as possible and even then, the actual steering shaft is limited by the chassis rail. Maybe you could do some funky things with Double Uni's and supports, but its far more cost effective to build custom headers.

Looks like also your brake proportioning valve would be in the way of you moving it any further towards the tower anyway. Maybe look into the the steering shaft from the jeep or astro or whatever it was, that may give you a bit more clearance on the headers, think peter knew a bit about that setup.

evilstuie

New crazy idea...
What about either clamping or welding a flexible exhaust join in place of the troubled primary?

Then I can exhaust heatshield wrap the pipe to the other to pull it into where I need it.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Exhaust-F...SduTF#shpCntId

I've already ordered the clipster headers which should turn up today, but if I can use the other ones I can bolt them up to get to the exhaust shop then get the ceramics installed.

LX_SS

You would be better off cutting the 2nd runner, move the collector over so the 2nd runner goes in the left side of the collector, then extend your first runner to come out more and go the right of the collector.
So the 2nd runner stays in the same position, and allows the first to come out more if that makes sense. Even rotate the first runner to go down more then back to the collector or even so it goes up higher a little then down around the 2nd runner.

Its all just tinkering with where they suit.

Give you an idea, these are my ls1 headers, i'm pretty sure the ls1 is wider therefore less room.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/atta...d-p1040162.jpg
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/atta...d-p1040198.jpg

evilstuie

Yeah, I see what you mean for the right side, but if these new headers fit without issue I'll just get the bits I cut out rewelded back in and put them on ebay.
I'm sure someone would be interested in a set of RHD headers for straightplug heads on the cheap.

evilstuie

The new ones look great, I'm sure they won't fit without adjustments, but I'm really hoping they do.

They're 1&5/8" primaries and 3" collector with a 3"-2.5" connector for the cat end so if they're better than the 1.5" ones I've tried to mod.


Might try and drop the motor in this afternoon and see how close it is.

There's no way to relocate the motor a few cms towards the center is there? LOL

evilstuie

Well good news so far, the new headers clear the plugs

Now I've just got to check the steering column, but I think it will be good, I just wish I had a picture of the old headers on the motor to gauge it.

Instead, the trippy broom handle will be used to estimate:
Old Headers:


New ones:


It's 3/4" out at the end, and intersects about halfway down. If afternoon maths is correct, then that should mean about 0.33" further out than the old headers, but it also looks like its further down the steering shaft, and at that point it would only hit if it didn't clear the chassis, so I'm very hopeful.

I've got to do a few more bits to the engine before I drop it in so I'll get them done tomorrow and hopefully have a trial drop-in.

Not too shabby for $300AU, especially if they end up not needing any 'convincing' in.

LX_SS

they look nice, hope it works out for you, fingers crossed.

evilstuie

So, that was a waste of money, missed by just over an inch.

The kicker is I can't even get them cut'n'shut because they'll then foul on the angled plugs.




To all else attempting to make headers fit though, my mate sent me this youtube link yesterday that gave me hope for the future regarding denting headers to fit. LOL
They enjoyed this a little bit too much I think...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=azPKIjxmmdU" target="_blank">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=azPKIjxmmdU

LX_SS

So which part of the header is your problem and btw you could easily modify those from what i've seen to clear.

evilstuie

Arrow 1 is the first problem, but I think when I fix that one, problem 2 will be the other bit.
Both above images are from the same position, so you can see the distance it's off from the front view and the engine mount bolt holes, about 1.5" needed.
I marked where I might be able to cut n shut it, but I think the #4 & #6 pipes will get in the way of the joint.

LX_SS

Little bit of heat, and a curve die or even using a thick wall pipe + hammer to re shape those areas would cure it wouldn't it ???

easier than cut/shutting.

evilstuie

Not sure, this isn't my area of expertise, I've seen your headers for your project and it's way too advanced for me LOL
That and don't have a curve die or thick wall pipe or at the moment, heat, dad took the butane torch to use on something.

LX_SS

Unless you were making the headers from scratch like i did, i dont think you will find anything that is a bolt on that clears for rhd, since there are so many factors in the conversion to cause issues with the headers. However i'm not suggesting you go this route.

I think you could get away with those and just putting an indentation on the areas of issue with the heat and a thick wall pipe to give you a uniformed curve (rather than just bashing with hammer). This is probably the easiest route providing everything else clears for you. Nag your old man for the Butane torch back and get a small 1 inch off cut thick wall pipe from a steel place.

They look like it gives you spark plug clearance compared to the other headers and if they can be fitted with just tho minor indentations on the issue areas, it wouldn't be a waste of money compared to the old headers you had.

evilstuie

Yeah, I'd love to use them if I can, the indent method would possible work with the joint, but if I knock the #2 in 1.5" it'll completely close that pipe before it clears.


Crude diagram of where the headers would sit once the mount bolts line up.

LX_SS

Ahhh, i missed that engine mount missing the bolt.

I must admit, get the engine bolted in sitting correctly first to work out what you have to work with.

evilstuie

Well the motor is in now, so I've got a few options for it

1st option, is use the stock headers, not sure how much performance I'll lose on a torquey 400 daily driver that shouldn't see over 5500rpm anyway. Anyone have an idea what losses I'd see? Also, are you able to port the exhaust headers for a bit more flow?
Look at all that spare room!

2nd option, my mate suggested it yesterday, again not the best option performance wise, but should be on part or a little better than the stock ones, is to pipe the #1 & #2 header pipes into 3 & 4 respectively, and cut out the join, so just straight across to the next pipe parallel with the head.

Or option 3, get a place to magically cut and shorten the pipe on #2 to bring it in close to the block, without hitting on the angled plugs, and possibly dent in the collector pipes enough to miss the steering knuckle

evilstuie

Quick update on the jeep shaft conversions...
Not quite as easy with RHD conversion.

The steering box shaft is a large size than the joint socket.
I had to grind the shaft down and remake the D shape in order to get the jeep shaft to slide on, but it worked eventually. Was thinking it might be worth tack welding the joint as well just for added comfort of knowing its not going anywhere, and can crack it if it needs to come off again.

Will see how much banging is needed to clear the shaft on the headers this afternoon.

evilstuie

Starting to wish I hadn't ground down that steering box....

So the headers didn't want to fit on their own, so I cut the #2 cylinder pipe off, chopped a bit off the end and re-angled it in slightly and it now clears the shaft.

The problem now is the jeep shaft joint towards the steering wheel is hitting on the other two pipes, and it'd take too much denting to clear, I'd have to close the pipes.

The really ridiculous thing is the old steering shaft would probably fit now, but the box shaft is ground too small to fit...

Anyone ever taken a thirdgen shaft apart?
If I use the wheel end half from eom thirdgen, and the box end from the jeep, it'll fit fine, but i don't want to wreck the thidgen shaft by cutting the rubber joint off if that's a vital piece of it.

Also quick question, if i unbolt the two large bolts in the cabin holding the steering shaft in place, will I be able to pull it froward in the cabin or is there something else holding it there?

LX_SS

Sounds like custom headers would have been the cheaper option in the long run :-(

Not sure with what you want to do with the shafts, however what i do know, if any welding of shafts is required there needs to be x-rays of said welds proving the strength of the weld joint.

Its been so long for me seeing the original pontiac column/shaft setup, i couldn't really tell you here.

evilstuie

Yeah probably.
What I want to do is take one half of the telescopic shaft of the jeep, and insert it into the other half of the thirdgen shaft and use the 2 different types of joint.
So no welding required, just not 100% sure if they'll fit in each other.

LX_SS

You'd have to measure the shafts up with verniers to see if they are the same size, if they are then there isn't any reason why it shouldn't. If there is any slop then you'd have issues too.