I've decided to finally look into headers for my car. It's RHD, which limits the options of what will fit.

There have been several threads about this on TGO, but none I've found that really came to any conclusions, so I'll have my go. The problem arises with the mirror type conversion, where the steering box and column swaps sides.

This results in the steering shaft interfering with where the left header would go, due to the slight right offset of the engine.

Over here in Oz, common wisdom seems to say only the Flowtech 11116FLT's will fit 'unmodified', but the primaries are only 1.5", and the y-pipe looks more like a t-pipe. Plus most anecdotes I've read ended up needing mods anyway.

I was hoping someone could do us RHD guys a favour. If you have Hooker 2055's or 2460's, or Hedman 68470's or anything else, can you please see how far they extend past the exhaust gasket face. I'm not really expecting anything to fit, but it's worth asking.

The distance available between the head and steering shaft is about 95mm / just under 4", as per the following pic. If you could measure yours, or just wave around a broomstick or something, that would be great!




Here's a full length shot from the top:




and one from the front:

 

Check this thread:

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tech...ng-column.html

I'm thinking of getting these stainless steel Chines copies of the Flowtech headers:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/170615730124#ht_3747wt_1165

 

Hey Peterc! Yeah already posted on that thread, Aussiroc's appears to have the same available space I have, and I assume you too.

I've been looking at these Flowtech knock-offs:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/110832988539

Referred to in this thread which you were also a part of:

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/exha...s-headers.html

They claim to have a 1.75 primary vs the 1.5 of the Flowtechs. Problem remains though, like the Flowtechs, will probably need to be modified to fit which would be more difficult with stainless.

My thinking is - if whatever headers I get need to be modified to fit anyway, I might as well get a set of 2055's which have the nice y-pipe included. Hence trying to get an idea of how much the interference would be. Looks like a set from Jegs would be about $750 shipped (so long as customs don't get me!). Or a set of 2460's locally for about $350, but then there's the y-pipe to source.

For under $300 shipped, I might roll the dice on one of these stainless ebay sets if I get no replies about the Hookers/Hedmans. Would still need a y-pipe fabbed tho.

 

I suspect those Flowtech (or the clones) will go into your car unmodified.

There is another thread about the Chinese stainless steel Flowtech clone headers, and the conclusion is that they are a direct copy, including the pipe dimensions.

They are sold as Procomp I believe, and this brand is commonly available in Australia. In theory the SS headers should be here too.

The Flowtech y-tube should connect directly to the Chinese headers.

Rocket have the Flowtech headers, but not the Y-pipe from what I can see.

 

Spoke to Sydney Speedway (Liverpool), who distribute Procomp Electronics stuff in Australia. Also went thru the Procomp catalogue.

The headers are called Speedway and the part number for stainless steel is: SM5011, which is a clone of the Flowtech ones above.

 

Yeah I've spoken to Rocket, got the Flowtechs for $304 but no y-pipe, Pontiworld for $350 no y-pipe, and the ebay Chinese stainless ones for under $300 shipped no y-pipe. I've read several anecdotes where they fit, several others where they need to be cut & shut, seems like a bit of a crap shoot.

The related y-pipe from Summit would be about $340 shipped:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BIG-11102YFLT/

However it looks functionally like the stock pipe and T's rather than Y's - effectively dead-ending the rh bank exhaust flow, and sending some of it back up the lh branch. The Hooker one looks much better. I'd rather not drop money on the restricted Flowtech one, so would need to price up fabrication of a proper one with an exhaust shop (and NOT Midas etc btw those guys are USELESS). Cant imagine it would be cheap.

My other concern is the primary size. Anecdotal wisdom on these forum and elsewhere says 1.5" is ok for a 305 but too small for a 350, where 1 5/8" is called for. Whether this concern is valid for a daily driver which is lucky if it's 220hp atm, I don't know.

Then again, online calculators like this indicate 1 1/2" would be ok for my low-rpm smogger, so what to believe:

http://www.wallaceracing.com/header_length.php

 

The Flowtech headers are not perfect, but probably the best option. They are the header design most likely to fit into your car without painful modification.

The Hooker headers have a good reputation, but they are an unknown for fitting into a RHD car. There are two options for Hooker headers, one with AIR plumbing and the other without. I have removed the AIR system from my car.

I was quoted $2,000 for custom made headers and was told they were the only option for a RHD car, which I now think is BS.

Maybe get the headers and get a custom Y-tube made as part of the exhaust.

Let me know what you do. The Speedway headers need to be ordered from the USA and if you go for a pair I might order at the same time to make it easier for the supplier.

 

The problem with headers in RHD cars is mainly #1 cylinder.

If you compare the Flowtech headers against the Hooker headers you can see #1 goes over the top, while the Hooker goes under and is unlikely to fit.

The Hooker 2055 y-pipe looks smoother though.

The Hooker 2460 Y-pipe 16767 doesn't seem to work with catalytic converters.

 

Think you mean no 2 hits, and no 6 goes over the top? Legend seems to have it 2 & 4 are the problem, but I remember reading ones guy's story somewhere needing all 4 on the rhs shortened.

Not too concerned about the y-pipe -> cat -> catback interface, mines butchered up in that area anyway (Midas) and needs re-doing by a proper exhaust shop. I'd like to source the headers & y-pipe, cat and catback, and let the shop worry about joining them together - can't see why that would necessarily preclude the 16767?

 

The Flowtech design may not be the best for performance, but has the best chance of fitting without cutting. I've seen photos several of several RHD cars where they went in unmodified.

My plan is to get the Chinese stainless steel Flowtech headers, find a good catalytic converter and muffler and get a good exhaust shop to weld it all up. If they are doing the rest of the exhaust it won't cost a lot more to do it right up to the collectors.

I hope to run a single 3" pipe to exit the right hard side of the car in front of the rear wheel, which is legal in Victoria. Only problem with this is finding somewhere to put the muffler.

 

I suspect I'll probably end up with a set of FT's or clones eventually too, just sucks how much our choices are limited. Lets us know if/when you pull the trigger on the Chinese ones.

Still would be good to get some dimensions of the Hookers/Hedmans rh offset though - anyone found a tape measure yet?

 

Sorry, missed this post earlier. Yeah, the FT's are touted as being the only option by our local folklore as it were, but I'm always one for questioning why. I was also rough-quoted $1200-$1500 for a set of custom headers, better than yours but still no way!!!

I will look at those Speedway ones too, wasn't aware of them.

Still in the meantime - measurements boys please

 

The Chinese Flowtech headers are sold as several brands, including Speedway and Procomp.

 

Figures, same shyte different smell.

 

Bump - anyone with a measurement?

 

Definitely keeping an eye on this topic, it's plaguing me as well. The custom header option is way out of the budget, and frankly the value for money sure isn't there.

peterc005, how will you go with the exhaust exiting the car? From memory exhaust must exit 200mm from the last opening be it a window or door. I'd like to do the same but I'm looking for a way around it. Then again, I am in Queensland where putting on a seat cover is sure to be illegal soon....

Cheers,
Mick

 

Gidday Mick, welcome aboard!

Heh, I always thought u sunshiners had it better up there, at least you can keep your left hookers afaik. Here in NSW I can't even do an engine swap or engine number change without a blue slip and engineering cert.

No replies to this yet, but we ought to keep bumping it along. Someone's gotta take pity!

 

#1 is the first cylinder on the right side of the car when looking at the engine on the front... Do you guys number it differently? The cylinder above the steering box on a RHD would be what I would call cylinder #2...

If that's the case, I think the Edelbrock shorties go over the 4 and 6 primaries.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-68722/

They appear to be out of production, though. Maybe you can find some? I know they're not really very well regarded but they may be better than the flowtechs.

 

Nah, we number cylinders the same way as the US, we upside-down not back-to-front! (Although we are left-to-right, oh god better stop this metaphor...)

There is a vendor over here who sells the FT headers, and on their site they say that you:

'may have a problem with the #1 or #2 pipe'

ie for cylinders 2 and 4

This phrase seems to have become part of the local 'header folklore' that I am questioning.

That Edel set looks interesting in the path the cyl #2 pipe takes, right up out of the way like that. Y-pipe looks good too. Would love to know the extent the 4 & 6 primaries protrude from the flange, will look into this set as far as I can online.

 

I haven't bought the headers yet because the car is still a way off completion.

I'll get a RWC first, then do the headers.

Will get the Chinese stainless steel headers and am pretty confident they will fit without modification.

 

Heh Pete, you can be our Guinea pig! Unless I get there first

 

Thanks for the suggestion Infernal! Had a look for these, but can't find a source anywhere. I did however find a guy's chronicle of getting a set to fit back in 2001 - took some heavy modification to the no.6 pipe - even mentions TGO:

http://members.optushome.com.au/iroc...xtractors.html

Further research:

I located a few pics of the Hookers from other threads to try and estimate primary pipe offsets on the rh header. Have attached the most relevant below, apologies to members Thirdgen89GTA and Robertfrank for ripping off your pix!

The first two show a Hooker 2055 partially then fully installed. I waved a vernier around the screen and derived a rough scale, then took some very rough measurements.

Given the 95mm available space, looks like no.2 pipe sticks out about 100mm, and the no.4 pipe somewhere around 125mm, with no.6 not far behind it. So no.2 might be coaxed to fit with heat and a hammer, but 4 & 6 would need to be shortened by at least an inch.

Actually even more, considering they would both interfere with the intermediate shaft u-joint that sits approx between no.4 and 6 - available clearance is reduced to about 85mm at that point. So this rules out the 2055's as a possibility without major re-work.

Third pic shows the Hooker 2460's. Haven't tried to "measure", to hard using this pic, but by eye it's the same problem as the 2055's and the Edel TES - no.2 might be made fit, but no.4 and 6 stick out too far.

Also ruled out the Hedmans by similar rough vernier measurements of pics from Summit & Jegs, too much to modify. If no further info comes to light, looks like the Chinese stainless FT's really are the best bet, even though it's a bit of a crap shoot. Just that y-pipe to sort out though...

 

Yep, the Hooker 2460 headers look a better fit.

I'll order some Chinese SS headers myself.

 

Please keep us up to date with how it fits up. Eying this thread like a hawk...

Cheers,
Mick

 

I'd like to know how those Chinese ones work as well. Seems like a good alternative to dropping several hundred on name brand stainless

 

Ryan, have u checked out this thread:

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/exha...s-headers.html

 

Here's another option - building your own custom headers. Looks like a very involved process with a lot of skill required - just found this great series of vids here:

http://www.stainlessheaders.com/headerfabrication

Scroll down to the bottom of the page, and watch all 6 in sequence.

 

Ok guys, here's an update.

I ordered a set of these from Ebay
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/110832988...84.m1438.l2649

Cost $290 shipped; I was amazed they only took 9 days to get here. The finish is excellent in polished stainless, and all fixings, gaskets, and reducers are supplied.

I ordered this particular set because they are advertised as "inlet 1.75", outlet 2.5"; however they are 1.5" od primary as we have suspected. Not too upset though, this was always a crap shoot and these do look very nice! This is a DD that rarely sees over 4000 rpm anyway.

I can't comment on the fit yet, for either rhd or lhd, it's gonna be several weeks before I get time to pull my manifolds for a test fit. However, just waving the rh header around roughly, it looks like the pipe for no.2 is going to interfere with the steering shaft.

Pics follow from right out of the box. Finish is good and welds are nice as you can see:














The following are measurements:

Primaries 1.505" OD:


Collectors 2.480" OD:


Collectors 2.390" ID:


Reducers 2.140" ID:



Now to sort out fitting and Y-pipe - this is going to be a long-term project!

 

Sexy!

They look good, how to you rate the quality of the manufacture?

What will you do for the Y-tube, a custom fabrication?

 

Wow dude, u responded quickly!

I'm no connoisseur of header manufacture, but they look and feel pretty high quality, ie the pics don't lie. Primary wall thickness is about 1.2mm, head flange 10mm, whether this good or bad I don't know but they are lightweight yet solid feeling. Overall I'm pretty impressed thus far, for the money and the source!

As for Y-pipe - will either get a shop to fab one, or buy a tig and learn how to use it. Also depends what I decide to do for a cat and cat-back. Like I said, long-term project!

 

From what I've read a pair of 2.5" primaries feeding into a 3" pipe, cat and muffler should be a great combination.

Does the O2 sensor screw in ok?

Any idea on the RH clearance?

 

Yeah, that's what I'm thinking. There's the horrible FT y-pipe I mentioned up in post 8 which should fit the headers, but the y joint needs to be addressed. Could probably mod one of those. Or I've noticed mandrel bends, y's, collectors, whatever u want on Ebay, in whatever size u want. Get a bunch of those and make a custom Frankenpipe. Then 3" all the way back.

Haven't tried the o2 yet, but looks the right size from memory. Just an adapter if it isn't, anyway.

Clearance doesn't look good on the #2 pipe, but unfortunately don't have time atm to pull the manifolds - work is slow atm and the wife has me renovating the bathroom and kitchen - but I'll try add it to the to-do list asap without her noticing

 

@TreeFiddy - any photos to share yet?

 

Sorry mate, and anyone else subscribed, I know you're waiting with baited breath to see if these things fit, as am I. Life has pushed project TA on the backburner again with renovations, a glut of work, a court case, helping a friend move, and a nice 3 week dose of the flu (immunosuppressed due to heart transplant, takes me forever to get over anything).

Found some time yesterday to finally start replacing tie rod ends and drag link, were getting pretty wooley, don'tcha hate non-performance priorities

Hopefully might get time to look at headers next week

 

Sorry to hear you've been ill, hope you're feeling better soon.

Court cases are never fun, generally a waste of money and energy where the only winner is the lawyers.

 

Amen to that, no cost to me at least, just a witness for aforementioned moving friend. Cheers, getting better now. At least the downtime has saved me some petrol money!

 

Any progress Treefiddy?

Cheers,
Mick

 

@TreeFiddy - congratulations on cracking a thousand posts. Hope your health is well.

Have you decided what to do about a Y pipe?

 

Yeah, too much posting and not enough wrenching! Unfortunately, life has just stalled this project for the time being, just not getting any garage time. Still haven't even had time to pull the manifolds and check the fit

On top of that, the car developed another steering fault a few weeks ago, so it's parked for now. No time to even diagnose it yet

As for the Y-pipe issue. The plan is to get a bunch of bends off ebay, and a tig or mig, and teach myself how to weld em up. I'm handy enough with a sitck, but have only blown thru thin stuff when I've tried it. If I end up sucking too bad, I'll get my dad on it. He's building a set of headers for his Morris (believe it or not!). Using a stick welder he cobbled together out of a bunch of car batteries, and is getting some unexpectedly ok results.

Sucks on your problems with the caliper powdercoat - any resolution?

Edit: Also sorry Mickey! I know you guys are waiting for me to pull my finger out

 

The callipers are sitting around while I figure out what to do. The powder coater should have baked them first to get the impurities out, cleaned them and then done the powder coating.

Not sure whether to take them back to be redone, sand them back to improve the finish, or strip and repaint them with VHT calliper paint (which I should have done initially).

I've replaced every rubber bushing with Energy Suspension polyurethane parts, include LCAs, torque arm, engine mounts etc, and installed new Moog ball joints. I hope the steering is tight.

For an exhaust I'm thinking of a Magnaflow 16829 Stainless Steel 3" Dual Cat-Back Exhaust System.

I was hoping you'd announce some simple and cheap solution for the Y-pipe, but guess I'll have to keep searching.

What's wrong with your steering?

 

That's the exact catback I was thinking about too. Be over $800 shipped from Summit - any clues on a cheaper source, maybe locally?

The cheap and simple solution for the Y is still the flowtech one, the only option I've found so far. However since it's actually a 2.5" outlet T pipe, I don't really see the point. Also no gaurantee it would fit this knock-off set of headers anyway.

Sounds like you're really going all out on your resto, I dont think there's a single area you haven't been fiddling with over the last year At this point I'm happy if mine just keeps running ok (well I was grrr). Got any plans for the rear brakes?

Steering problem - was driving around a few weeks back, and it started getting a little wandery over the space of a couple km, with the straight-ahead position of the wheel changing about 4-5 degrees. I think it's probably the box, as it's making an odd clicking sound like something's getting hung up internally. I really hope it's not the chassis cracked again. Given this concern, I decided to just park it for the duration till I can look at it properly.

 

I'll probably keep the stock Delco rear disk brakes, although Scott from BigBrakeUpgrades is bringing out a rear LS1 kit and I'm interested in this.

The car is in a thousand pieces and looks like a junk yard wreck, but is moving slowly.

I bought an aluminium tail shaft and had it balanced with new uni joints.

I believe that Magnaflow cat back is designed for duals cats, meaning the right Y tube is needed, but you would have two 2.5" pipes.

Amazon are selling that Maganaflow cat back for $370. Use a shipping agent with sea freight and you will get it shipped for less than $100.

http://www.amazon.com/Magnaflow-1682.../dp/B001HM0PP0

I've been looking at the Holden steering boxes. I think they were all the same from HQ to WB. The Holden power steering boxes all seem teh same, with a 16:1 ratio, while IROCs had a 12:1 ratio.

Need to find an expert in Holden steering boxes.

 

Thanks for the Amazon tip. Since I'll be doing some welding anyway, I'll just mod the inlet of whatever catback I end up with to suit whatever Y + cat I end up with. Haven't even thought about a cat yet, should be a few choices around though.

I replaced the steering box 10 yrs ago. It had a dying hq box when I bought the car, which I replaced with an identical reco from a local brake & steering place. Happily they're still in business, it where I get my rego's done actually, so sourcing another reco shouldn't be a problem.

 

Ok - I finally found a spare arvo to test fit the right side header. It comes heartbreakingly close to fitting, but doesn't quite get there.







To get it this far, I had to remove the y-pipe and starter - the collector is about 150mm longer than the exit pipe from the manifold. It still has 2-3cm to go both back and down. Unfortunately, the first primary pipe (cyl #2) hits the steering shaft and won't allow it to go any further:



So the first pipe will need modification. Once it is, further interference may arise with the intermediate steering coupling. It's not actually contacting in the following pic, but probably will once the header can move further down:



Obviously this coupling has seen better days, but has no discernable play. Might have to replace it with a narrower universal joint, or try and source a local equivalent of the Astro van shaft.

As for the collector end, looks like it's going to end up butted up beside the plastic flexplate cover, so that may need notching. I'll try removing the steering shaft, and play with the lh header over the next couple days.

 

Great pics.

I suspect if you replace the rag joint with a Jeep joint there will be plenty of space.

Is the front #2 pipe actually hitting the shaft?

 

Maybe remove the long centre bolts from the engine mounts and then lift the engine so you can wiggle the headers down and back?

Never seen anyone document and take pics of RHD header installation yet.

What are you doing for a Y pipe?

 

Yeah, I was reading a thread here, I think one of the mods was comparing the Jeep shaft to the Astro van shaft and concluded the van shaft was a better fit. No chance of those in the wreckers here of course, but Jeeps might be worth a look. Or Rocket's got some nice billet uni joints.

Yep, the front pipe is wedged right into the shaft. See the 3rd pic above - the shaft stops the flange rotating to align with the head at the top of the ports. I want to pull the shaft so I can appraise how close it interferes with the header fully in position.

 

Your second post there: Yep, I was thinking lift the engine a little, but I still don't think it will get me there. The shaft to head distance (engine in place) is simply less than the flange to pipe distance of the header. Will need to cut maybe 10mm off the pipe at the flange, bend it, and re-weld. Or squish the pipe, but I'd rather not.

Yeah, that's why I started this thread. I scoured the net for pics of this and came up pretty short, just like you've done I'm sure. Hope I can provide some insight for the next guy.

As for the Y-pipe, will definitely be a home fab job. Won't be getting into that yet; at this point I just want to find out what I'm up against with the headers. Then it's manifolds back on, sort that steering fault, and get her rego'd (that time of the year again ).

 

Looks like it's close to fitting.

Wonder if you could heat and bend the front tube?

 

Either heat + bend or cut + heat + bend. Any idea if heat discolours stainless too bad? And if so, can you clean it up?

Ps showed my dad your caliper pics today, he was pretty incensed too.