I have seen this question asked a few times in the past and I just wanted to make sure it is still the case. I want to go from Hooker 2460 headers to Hooker 16823 aerochamber cat-back, and buy a y-pipe that will delete the cat. The Hooker 16767 goes down to 2.5" at the I-pipe connection, correct? Is this the only y-pipe that will join these two parts?

I would like to keep the whole system 3". If the above is correct, the only way to do this would be through a custom y-pipe. I have no idea how much these things cost, so does any one have an idea of the price of a custom y-pipe?

 

I found this on JEGS. It's a hooker Y-Pipe that fits the 2460's. It doesn't say if it's 3" or not, but a call to JEGS would solve that.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Hooker-Headers/520/16767/10002/-1

 

i posted something like this a little while ago asking the same question. thats the only they make for the 2460, and ive heard the quality of it isnt that good anyway, so custom y pipe mite be your only option. and it is a 3" to 2 1/2'' where the cat delete is.

 

Probably why most everyone goes with the 2055's and if they don't want/need emissions, they just cut off the AIR tubes and weld them shut.

 

that is what his other option is. they have a normal y pipe which is better quality than the cat delete one, but you can just weld in some extra pipe going to the intermediate pipe, if your running no cat

 

Thanks for the replies guys. I almost wish I would have went for the 2055s instead, but I got a crazy deal on my 2460s.

I guess my question is now - how much should I expect to pay for a custom y-pipe?

 

maybe 250...who knows. go to a couple shops and get estimates.

 

 

Just out of curiousity, would a 3" crush bend be better than the Hooker 16767 (mandrel bend, 2.5")?

 

Probably not a lot of difference.

Mark.

 

im not sure if dyno don uses the same flange type as the 2460s, but his y pipe is pretty affordable and ive heard nothing but good things about it. just may have fitment issues cuz there not his headers, but it could be worth a shot

 

Mine would be a good start but if you use this one and cut it right where it goes down to
2 1/2" and put a 3" bend on it it would work better.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Hooker-Headers/520/16767/10002/-1

 

Thanks for all the replies guys, even Don got in here to tell me not to buy his products! Great customer service right there.

I guess my question now is if it is worth it to go for the custom 3" work or just buy a 16767 y-pipe and install it myself? I know it isn't worth it now with my stock LG4, but I would like to make some more power out of this engine in the near future. How much HP would this system (good headers, y-pipe with a chokepoint of 2.5" where it meets the cat-back, and then a 3" cat back) be able to support, cfm wise? I know that probably depends on a variety of factors, but would this handle 300-350 horse without a doubt?

 

A 3" system with a 2.5" choke point, is only a 2.5" effective pipe. A 3" single flows only about 10-15cfm less than a true dual 2.5" (google it, should be close). It's definitely worth getting the 3" system...for a 350 or larger motor. For a stock or mild build 305, you probably won't see the gains out of it. Chevy High Performance did a build on a 305 that got 358hp. So that kind of power is doable, if you build it right. If you do a build with 300hp+ on a 305, you'll want the 3".

 

Thanks for the info Ozz. I think what I will go for is the 2.5 for now, and get custom work done to make it 3" when I have the money and more power.

Also, how much will this reduction down to 2.5 inches affect sound compared to a full 3" system?

 

It won't. That aerochamber you're looking at getting is a mean muffler. Sounds wicked under WOT and has a nice rumble at idle and when just cruising around.

 

Thanks! Everything is solved. This is such a helpful website, I love it.

 

I made a good flowing pipe using the Doug'd D901 y pipe for much cheaper than the hooker pipe. It bolts right up to the 2460's and all I had to do was cut off the 2.5 pipe, expanded the opening and weld in a 3 inch. worked great for a budy of mines 91 tbi car.

 

I've got a few basic questions, I'm trying to get an idea of what I'm going to be facing when installing a set of 2460's. I just got a deal on a set with no Y-pipe. I'll probably end up using the Doug's Y-pipe, is there a recommended set of gasket's for these? Any tips from others that have done this install? The only smog equipment left of my 92 5.0 TBI are the heat risers, and these are non-AIR versions. I should mention I have access to a lift, if they go in easier from the bottom.

Thanks!

 

Gasket type for me really depends on how flat or true the header flange is. If it's good and flat then some good fel-pro gaskets work fairly well. If they are slight off then the dead soft aluminums have worked well for me. For the collector gaskets I like to use the aluminum gaskets as they have never failed on me. It's always been a hit or miss with the metal/paper gaskets for me.

getting the 2460's in is pretty straight forward and easy once you get the old manifolds off. They'll drop right in from the top no problem.

 

I much prefer the non-gasket style of the 2055's to any gasket style.

 

i WISH YOU WERE CLOSER, AND i WOULD MAKE YOU A CLEAN Y-PIPE FOR $100. I built mine, with a custom cross member, and a 4" out the back with a hooker aero-chamber. I have actually had a couple people tell me it sounds like a Ferrari. Don't know about that but, I really like the sound either way. As for the 3" crush bend vs. mandrel 2.5" Unless you have a crazy engine, the 2.5 would be plenty. Mine is really over kill, but I had to prove a point. Before I opened my own exhaust and fab shop I had guys laugh at me when I told them what I wanted under my car. One guy even call me an idiot. So to prove him wrong I built it. I will post up some pics soon. I plan on making some changes to the car and having the whole exhaust system ceramic coated.

 

Dangit, I just moved here a couple of months ago from Ft Campbell, KY... If you could replicate a Y-pipe, I might be able to swing down.

 

I could do one about any afternoon. Where are you at now? Just saw Ft. Knox? If so your only about 2 hrs from me..

 

Yep, Knox for another 9-12 months or so. Let me get to that point, and I can get ahold of you when I'm ready. It'll be at least 2-3 months, unless I sell my other toy.

 

Just shoot me a pm when you are ready, and we can set-up a weekend to come down and get it done.

 

Just installed my 2460's with Hooker y pipe everything fit nice.Trying to post pics
Yeah, it's a 2 1/2" Y pipe.

 

More pics.





I also installed the off road cat eliminator that came with the Y pipe. Problem is that the Xcelerator 2 1/2" cat back exhaust muffler, when standing behind the car you can hear a definite difference in sound coming out of the tailpipes the right side is way louder!!!!

 

I just redid the Y-pipe on a set of 2460 headers.
Changed it to 3" where it drops down to 2 1/2"

 

I will get a thread up soon of my exhaust. It is a custom y and 4 inch to a hooker aerochamber. Even built a trick tranny x-member....

 

That's what I did with my Hedman "Y" pipe. Worked out pretty well.

Mark.

 

Those of you who cut off the bottleneck of the y-pipes, and welding in a 3 inch piece, did you cut before the y, and find a 3 inch "y" section, or did you just cut after the y, before it gets down to 2.5 inches?

 

I'm curious about this too. I have the 2460's with the hooker 2.5" y pipe and need to join it to my existing 3" exhaust without restricting it down to 2.5.

 

Hey kauboy. How's your starter doing with the header heat running by it? Still good? I haven't put mine on yet.....

 

I have a mini starter on my car with the y pipe pretty close, and haven't had any problems yet. it's been over 2 years now. and I just cut the y-pipe right at the "y" and welded on a 3"oval pipe. I cut the "y" as far back as I could without making the hole bigger than the Oval. I am very happy with the results!

 

Any tips for ovalizing 3" exhaust to fit the 2.5" y-pipe collector?

 

I purchased some oval pipe sections from summit. Worked great!

 

Very cool! Thanks!
And it looks like it clears your subframe connectors too! Are those the UMI's?

 

Yes they are! My old exhaust rested right against the small support of the subframe connectors. Always made obnoxious noises. Love my new exhaust!!

 

Did you do oval all the way back or did you transition to round?

 

I transitioned back to round right before the electric cut out. The cut out is right where the catalytic converter used to be.

 

How close is the passenger side tire at full right-lock to the Ypipe bend for you guys?
I'm fabbing up a oval to 3" adapter and have concerns about how close my set up may come to the tire.