What's the best way to get to the back 2 header bolts on the passenger side? I have all the other ones out except for those. All the other ones came out easy. I took out all the AIR stuff coming from the smog pump. I don't really want to do anything to the A/C because I don't have anything to evacuate it. I moved the heater valve and hoses out of the way.

The one closer to the front, I can get to from the bottom, but can only fit a wrench on it, not a regular or deep socket. I tried 2 wrenches, a steel pipe, a lot of PB Blaster (sprayed the night before, and again today), but I haven't been able to get it loose.

The one all the way in the back, the black plastic heater box or whatever that is, is in the way. Can't get a wrench or socket on it. Whether I go from the bottom and top, it doesn't matter. I read about people unbolting the passenger side engine mount and then jacking up the engine to get to these two bolts, but I don't really see how it would help, because the issue is with the left to right clearance. I don't see how raising or lowering the engine will help.


Another question I have is.. unless I buy new bolts, I don't see how the A/C and alternator brackets will fit on the headers. The bolts that came with the headers don't seem like they will have space for the brackets. Is it ok not to reconnect the brackets? Everything seems pretty stable without them.

 

For changing my plugs, I use a header socket like this one...

http://www.jegs.com/p/SLP/SLP-Spark-...64116/10002/-1

It's a little pricey but, at least in my case, made changing plugs so much better! You slide the socket on and then turn it with a wrench.

I don't have a bracket from my headers to anything. Ideally you would but I haven't had any issues without them.

Hope this helps!

 

I have no problems getting to the plugs. I have a socket like that too, actually. I'm trying to get the last 2 exhaust manifold bolts off on the passenger side.

Thanks, I figured the brackets aren't really a big deal.

 

Sorry, I misread your post.

It's been a long time since I've had exhaust manifolds... if I remember correctly, mine broke when I tried taking them off (they were old and brittle), so I just busted them up and then took the bolts out

 

I use a C shaped 3/8s wrench

 

I used Craftsman Max Axess ratchet/socket. It is he thinnest/lowest profile socket available. Access from the under the car.

The problem I had, was the stud loosened from the head, before the nut holding the heat shield to the stud. I worked it back and forth, and simply tore the mounting tab off the heat shield. To deal with the same problem with the dip stick, I think I was finally able to get a wrench on the stud to hold it, while the MaxAxess ratchet/socket turned the nut.

 

Don't be afraid to buy cheap wrenches and grind them thin or heat them up and bend em to make what you need.

 

The best way I got to them was from under the car. I used a wrench since I couldn't get any kind of ratchet and socket on the bolts.

 

I don't have stock manifolds so my situation may be a bit different.

I used crow's foot wrenches (http://imgur.com/OX4QqXO).. They helped A LOT when doing exhaust gaskets.. would have taken me many more hours than it did if I didn't have them available.

You can get a cheap pair from your local Harbor Freight for around 10 dollars.

I've used them in many situations other than just exhaust manifold/headers, they're one of the tools I have that I consider indispensable.

 

Cheapie crows foot on exhaust manifold bolts? I foresee disappointment. They're tough enough to get loose with quality tools most of the time. Maybe, and I mean maybe if you break them loose first.

 

Yeah I ended up using a breaker bar and a crowsfoot on one of them. The other one was too hard for me. I tried about 3 days and then my friend helped me get it off. He just used a wrench from the bottom. But you have to angle your arm in a position where you can't see what you're doing. He just did it by feel. You also have to use the open end of the wrench at an angle. Also helps to have someone watching from above to tell you if you're close or not.

Getting the last header bolt on was a pain too. Again, you have to angle your arm correctly and do it by feel. I would suggest buying the smaller headed bolts (5/16 head instead of 7/16 head that comes with the headers). I just ground down the one bolt I needed for back there, but if I had to do it again, I would save the time and get the 5/16 head bolts. That way all of the bolts are easier to get to.