Okey I know everyone is sick of hearing about subframe connectors, but i am having alot of fun attempting to install mine. I have my car raised about 2 feet in the air, and the wheels removed so it's easier to scurry around underneath it. I remember reading that you should have your car sitting level and have even weight on your suspension. (this makes sense, so your car isn't permenentally bent out of shape) Where did those of you lift so your car was reletivley straight and not sagging, twisted etc....... and is there any way to measure or check to see if it is straight enough to weld them in there. I currently have 2 jackstands on the rear axle, and another 2 just inside of where i want to weld the subframe connectors, on the front subframe between the front door hinge, and the tranny x member. I was thinkin about putting blocks under the front tires and lowering it down as this would better simulate it sitting on the ground than the way it is sitting right now. I'm gonna try to attach a pic so this might make more sense to some of you. Any input or pics of previous installs is greatly apreciated, thanks guys

 

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last one pic 4

 

You need to install them with the doors shut and 4 wheels on ramps. You can't do it with the car on jacks because the car doesn't sit the same. If you want it done right you gotta do it with the wheels on the ground. You could try 4 drive up ramps if you can't find any one.

 

well I just got a bunch of 6by6? posts i believe.......... I'm gonna lower the front tires onto 2 of these. I cant see there being much of a difference having the rear axle supported by jackstands, as compared to with the tires on ramps. I am thinking about attempting this tonite, so the more info the better. thanks

 

it shouldnt matter if u have ur axles supported it would be just like having it on tires as long as the floor is level. it is even better than haveing it on the tires. because you dont variables ie tire pressure. just my 2 cents. if u want u could come over and we could use the lift

 

how the heck do u weld these in? I keep blowing holes through the darn floor.......... the floor is soo thin. I'm using a dc stick welder. I've tried 6010 and 7018 rods..... with verry little success.

 

i would tig it. or if u insist on stick some 6013 so u can just go right threw it instead of going forward and then back

 

I don't have a tig, mig or gas welder........... if I did i would give it a shot. It sure is difficult tryin to weld the thin floor.... I am open to any suggestions, I think i just need a break to calm down, and try it again tomorrow.

 

There are several sizes of rods, and you will need the small size. Obviously this allows you to use a bit less amperage.

Also, as you move the weld along, "aim" the electrode towards the subframe, and away from the flooring. Worst case scenario is you'll have to take the seats/carpet out and weld the holes back up from up top. Stick welding to different thicknesses is difficult upside down.

Good luck

Troy
So Cal

 

to position the car you should place it on a known level surface and take a few referance measurements with an angle finder or level. jack it up place jack stands underthe front control arms and rear end and replicate the measurements you got with the angle finder. my garage floor is sloped for a drain. i use 1/2" plywood for shims under the jackstands.. for electrodes for a stick machine i'd use 3/32" 6013. really if all i had was a stick machine i'd find someone to mig it for me.

 

i would use a wire feed welder which im about to do as soon as i get done with my body work. i was told that wire welding will be fine as long as you attach it to the frames and make braces along the way.

thomas

 

itsnot really that safe but thas waht i did

 

whats not that safe, wire welding? you can't get much more safe as far as welding goes than that.

 

i did gasless mig welding. its strong but its not the strongest. if i had to do it all over again i would tig the whole thing with stainless filler.

 

anyone have exact dimensions for the bar on the passenger side?

 

i used a super large arc welder with a stinger and a rod. the damn thing is from the 70s and is used to put up buildings. only blew one hole. hey im glad to see more of the v6 body style! finally im not the only one around here

 

You should be able to get away with the 6010 but you have to jam it in and not pull back cause when you start to pull the rod back a little it will just blow thru cause of all the arc.....Also don't whip it because you will be goin back over the slag and it will weaken the weld but you can do the ole' small circlular motion trick which will keep the trapped slag down to a minimum for strength.....My .02 cents

 

thanks for the tips guys, I paid 180 bux to have them installed, a guy i know tig welded them in place. I was kinda surprised, they never even cut the passenger side subframe connector, it was just a straight bar with a triangle bracket welded at the front subframe. This was prob one of the best mods i have done to date, I wish i did this earlier. The day i got them i tried to do a donought and my car went up on 2 wheels with my oval track slicks. it was pretty intense, anyways I'm gonna shut up now, and go take some pics of them installed, because i have never seen any installed like this before.

 

why are you welding the SFC's to the FLOOR??

all you need to attach them to are your front and rear frames..

sounds like it worked out, big difference eh!

 

so where are teh pics

 

didnt notice from the back that it was a berlinetta because of those grid tailights. then i saw the front signals. those front signals with the crosshairs are hard to find!