Square tube LCAs and panhard rods can be hundreds of dollars. A little welder from sears is about $200. Is it possible just to cut a piece of metal and weld it onto our stamped suspension pieces over the channel? I mean this would essentially make it boxed steel and take out the flex right? Ideas?

 

yea... and lots of people have done it too.

heres one of several how tos that you can find online....


http://sethirdgen.org/lca.htm

 

I have done my LCA's already and it will work just as well, and best of all, it was free. As far as panhards are concerned, I personally wouldnt box that in. I think it will still be flimsy, because it is a long piece. I plan on using a piece of tubing with some sperical rod ends. SFC are going to cost about $10 for some scrap tubing. Plus I think its always build your own if possible.

 

Boxing the Panhard is VERY effective. Mine sure wasn't able to flex after I boxed it. Check out my link and look at my undercarrige boxed up. I used 1" by 3/16 steel bar. For the LCA's, I believe it was 2" wide and 1/8 inch bar. Stout as can be.

 

I agree. I boxed mine also and I found the difference to be night and day. The same as how a strut tower brace tightens up the front end (which in the case of both my Camaro and Trans Am, made a HUGE difference)

 

I just built my own panhard. I cut the ends off my stock panhard bar, then welded them to a piece of steel tubing. Used poly bushings and the things sweet! If you know how long it needs to be to center the rear, it doesnt need to be adjustable. Just cut it to the right length.

 

any pics?? sounds interesting

 

i just swapped rears lastnight... guess what.


my panhard bar is tweeked.


so i guess i'll probly be making one somtime soon...


i was thinking of getting some thick wall steel tubing and just putting in some high quaility rod ends... i'll have to buy a LH tap but i could use it later to make LCAs the same way...

similar to that guys page that made alum ones, but i feel more comfortable using steel.... overkill is good.

 

Ok I guess I was mistaken to say that it would still be flimsy, it was a guess. BUT my new argument is a piece of tubing would weigh less, and look cleaner. So there, take that.

 

i do NOT support the idea of using alum in critical suspension pieces... however the same thing in steel would be great.

http://www.jonaadland.com/Z28/Mods/L...minumLCAs.html


just somthign to look at.

 

The tubing is heavier. The point it becomes light enough, it loses its integrity. I have some 1" by 14 ga square steel tubing, the right length to make them appears (havn't weighed it) to weigh a few extra ounces.

 

A few ounces heavier? LOL,I didnt know we were getting that tecnical here. What are you building out of 1''by 14 gauge square? I was talking about panhards. IMO using square tubing to make a panhard would look kind of gay. Besides as strength goes round is better than square, although depending on wall thickness.

 

im not worried about weight.... and if you ever picked up a set of spohns adjustible LCAs, you'll see how most of the aftermarket parts weight more anyway..

i just want somthing stiffer... if its at the cost of a few oz of unsprung weight, so be it....

if i was that worried about it, i would have diffrent rims, thinner brake rotors (with alum hats) ect.... there are better places to lose weight first before i think about lightening my suspension linkage components.

 

I can't see mine

 

i just boxed my lcas in last night and it was very easy...if you have a welder. i have a little 50 amp 115 volt welder that i just tacked the metal in and i had a buddy who is a very good welder finish them. all i have to do is prime and paint them and i will try to get a pic.

 

One thing I don't like (and why I haven't boxed my LCA's yet) is rust- as soon as I figure out how to effectively coat the inside of the LCA after I weld it, to prevent it from rusting from the inside-out, I'll box 'em in.

Best idea I've had so far is to only weld a bar over the u-channel that's shorter than the arm itself- leaving about 1/8th inch between the bar and the bushings. This should let water drain out. Of course I still have to coat the weld itself; maybe some POR-15 poured into the arm would work.

 

You guys ever look at a front wheel drive car or mini-vans rear axle? On many it looks like our beloved panhard rod with a bar welded in the middle. I do not mean boxed but a bar that is welded at the ends only. I live in Canada and rust is obviously a concern so I used a piece of concrete rebar cause its super hard and tough and welded it in between the bushing eyes if you will with a one inch weld right in the center. Worked excellent and no water trapping. I figured if it worked so well for strength on a mini van axle it would be okay for a panhard bar.