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Shaved Handles $$$ ???

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Old May 5, 2004 | 11:19 PM
  #1  
CamaroPimp's Avatar
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From: Arizona; Prescott area
Car: 95' Z28 T-top; 4:10 Posi with KYB adjustable gas shocks; Hooker Super Comp Shorties; K&N; Flowmaster
Engine: LT-1 350
Transmission: T56
Shaved Handles $$$ ???

abought how much woulkd it cost to install the shaved door handles???...Do all you guys do it yourself or how much for a shop to complete??...also...what about the paint...just touchup the shaved part with touch up paint or do yall repaint whole car..??
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Old May 6, 2004 | 07:33 PM
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From: london ontario
Car: 87 iroc
Engine: mild 350
Transmission: 350 turbo
first decide if you are going to use your power door locks to open it or you are going to buy solenoids, i chose the locks. then, i went to canadian tire and bought a remote to lock and unlock my doors. then, i took off the lock/unlock linkage rods, and moved my power door lock right below the latch, used a piece of linkage and bent it to go from the power lock to the handle instead of the lock/unlock. If you have your doors adjusted right(new door pins) and they dont drag, you dont even need to buy springs, the top of the window will push off the weatherstripping and mine opens about half a foot.

As for the outside just remove the handle and mig weld it , Defiantely take it slow, when u warp your door it takes forever to get it back to shape, i didnt havea mig so i had to oxy-accetlyne mine and they got a good warp, but if you mig and jsut do tacks you wont have that problem. then obviously after, u have to bondo/ sand/bondo sand...then "iceing" the really fine stuff then primer then paint.

setting up the linkage is easy!! it will take you just a few short hours and remmeber you dont need locks after u shave the handle so if u already have the power locks why not use them?? they are supposted to have better pulling power then a solenoid(so i have been told) i did my shaved door handles for 40 bucks myself and i had all the bondo and stuff so it was jsut labor sanding the door down! i think it is pretty expensive if u get a shop to do it! well think labor 60 an hour, it is guna take atleast 4 or 5 hours, its easy, jstu common sence and it looks killer

TOTAL COST
40 bucks canadian- for the remote door lock/ unlock kit

or just buy solenoids for 130 bucks, lol
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Old May 6, 2004 | 07:35 PM
  #3  
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From: london ontario
Car: 87 iroc
Engine: mild 350
Transmission: 350 turbo
Woops i almost forgot! you will need door poping springs if you drive your camaro in the winter(when thers heavy snow and ice, haha, your doors will freeze shut) but who woudl drive a camaro in the winter anyway! id be in every ditch
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Old May 6, 2004 | 08:26 PM
  #4  
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From: E.B.F. TN
Car: Tree Huggers
Engine: Do Not
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Originally posted by spekbikes
... but who woudl drive a camaro in the winter anyway! ...
That would be me.
I also take the vette, cobra, and both motorcycles (magna, CBX) out too!
You just have to have some respect for the elements. But it's fun!!

As for the question, IIRC someone posted up how much it cost them in another thread about this. Maybe try a search, but I can't remember if it was in fab or gen tech.
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Old May 6, 2004 | 08:30 PM
  #5  
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From: E.B.F. TN
Car: Tree Huggers
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It's in fab...

Originally posted by FLYNLOW92rs
TOTAL for everything was like $750

Door popper kit
Viper Alarm
Body Work
Installation of kit & alarm
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Old May 6, 2004 | 09:17 PM
  #6  
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From: LaGrange (10min from Poughkeepsie), NY
Car: 1992 Camaro RS - not real slow anymore...
Engine: SPDC 360 MAF EFI /w a Holley Stealth Ram
Transmission: T5 untill it blows up from to much torque
Axle/Gears: Ford 9" /w auburn pro & 3.89's
how much is all the stuff if you did the work yourself? Is a lot of that 750 labor?
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Old May 7, 2004 | 03:07 PM
  #7  
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From: Buckeye Lake, OH
Car: 1989 Camaro, 2008 600RR
Engine: 311
Transmission: T-10
Axle/Gears: 02 SS Rear with 3.23 Gears
i have $10 in mine and i used the stock power locks to make it work
Attached Thumbnails Shaved Handles $$$ ???-smoothdoor1.jpg  
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Old May 7, 2004 | 08:49 PM
  #8  
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From: cali
Car: 84z, 65 elcamino
Engine: l69 and a hyped up sbc in the camino
Transmission: t5 m21
Axle/Gears: 373s 411s
look at my post
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Old May 9, 2004 | 02:36 PM
  #9  
CamaroPimp's Avatar
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From: Arizona; Prescott area
Car: 95' Z28 T-top; 4:10 Posi with KYB adjustable gas shocks; Hooker Super Comp Shorties; K&N; Flowmaster
Engine: LT-1 350
Transmission: T56
Originally posted by spekbikes
Woops i almost forgot! you will need door poping springs if you drive your camaro in the winter(when thers heavy snow and ice, haha, your doors will freeze shut) but who woudl drive a camaro in the winter anyway! id be in every ditch
Ya..I drive mine in winter too ...thats the best time...right after it snows you just gotta know how to manuver the slides and take turns while sliding sideways then straighten out after ..Its sooo much fun..
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Old May 10, 2004 | 11:46 AM
  #10  
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From: San Rafael, California
Car: 92 Camaro RS
Engine: 305
Transmission: 700R4
Spec,
does that mean when you hit the unlock button both doors pop? or is it configured that 2 buttons control each door individually? i have an alarm already and when i hit the button both doors unlock, would i need a new remote, or have this one re-configured?

and when you say "linkage" howd you hook the locks to the door handle linkage, you have any pics of when you were doing it?
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Old May 11, 2004 | 10:40 AM
  #11  
spekbikes's Avatar
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From: london ontario
Car: 87 iroc
Engine: mild 350
Transmission: 350 turbo
what i did, was change the wire around, so when one, unlocks,the other locks, kinda thing, so the one dorr opens on unlock, and the other one opens on lock! its easy to do man, just use common scence
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Old May 11, 2004 | 11:31 PM
  #12  
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From: Davenport, Iowa
Car: Still a 3rd Gen
Engine: 450HP 355
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 9" with 4.11's
i have the biggest, baddest door pops money can buy and i never use them unless my woman is riding with me. i was gonna shave the handles but i never got around to it...i still might someday.

IIRC, they are 100lb poppers, they each are on a 30 amp fuse and are connected to an output on my Ungo (Clarion) alarm. they have never jammed and always work perfectly. Total cost was around $500 with the alarm install, solenoids and all the wiring.

here is a quick vid i took for another forum of them in action:

http://whitelightning2.kicks-***.org/av/door%20pops.mov

hehe, you can almost see all that pearl in my paint, (another reason i didn't want to shave the handles, paint matching would be nearly impossible with that $4k P.J. )
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Old May 12, 2004 | 12:41 AM
  #13  
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From: Arizona; Prescott area
Car: 95' Z28 T-top; 4:10 Posi with KYB adjustable gas shocks; Hooker Super Comp Shorties; K&N; Flowmaster
Engine: LT-1 350
Transmission: T56
Originally posted by spekbikes
what i did, was change the wire around, so when one, unlocks,the other locks, kinda thing, so the one dorr opens on unlock, and the other one opens on lock! its easy to do man, just use common scence
Ok i would like to do this to my 4th gen...already has power remote locks .....Could ya spec a lil more on what wires were...maybe take some pics...you can pm me if you think its easier...thnks
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Old May 12, 2004 | 08:42 AM
  #14  
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From: london ontario
Car: 87 iroc
Engine: mild 350
Transmission: 350 turbo
yes, im gunnah ave to look at my car i forgot which wires they were, but i know how to do it for cheap! if u can do the body work.

basically here is teh steps

a remote kit that has lock and unlock! (for one door and one for the other door)

start on the passsenger door and do 1 AT A TIME! lol

then take off door panel,(dont wreck the clips. its a major pain if u break them.

then take off the power door lock by drilling out the rivets that hold it on.

then remove the linkage to the lock/unlock for inside the car. the exterior handle, and exterior lock. save the rods, because ur gunna need it when making the new linkage.

now it shoudl be pretty gutted and easy to understand!! now u want to make your linkage to the exterior door handel. i placed my power door lock at the bottom of the door(inside) then i just used the linkage rod, put it in the vice, and hammered it to bend it to the shape i needed, then once i had made a few of them and got the best one, u then simply just connect the linkage and when u have it set just right, (instead of using rivets, just use bolts, and voila!! its easy!

the first door will be abit of skrewing around figuring it out, and hten after that your set man!!

just do one door at a time (starting with passenger, so if u skrew it up its not much of a inconeince to drive it aroudn liek that for a few days.


i cna try to get a few pictures but i dont havea digital. so its guna be a while before i get any pics of where the power door lock sits
and the linkage i made to connect the two.
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Old May 12, 2004 | 08:45 AM
  #15  
spekbikes's Avatar
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From: london ontario
Car: 87 iroc
Engine: mild 350
Transmission: 350 turbo
that video you posted of how your doors pop. i hope that is without the 100lb poppers? kuse mine opens that much or more without a popper, just new door pins and my door adjusted correctly so it moves freely
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Old May 12, 2004 | 01:50 PM
  #16  
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From: Arizona; Prescott area
Car: 95' Z28 T-top; 4:10 Posi with KYB adjustable gas shocks; Hooker Super Comp Shorties; K&N; Flowmaster
Engine: LT-1 350
Transmission: T56
ok thnks..i might just buy the selenoids so i dont have to screw up my new car..lol...but if i decide ill do what you said
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Old May 12, 2004 | 03:44 PM
  #17  
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From: Davenport, Iowa
Car: Still a 3rd Gen
Engine: 450HP 355
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 9" with 4.11's
Originally posted by spekbikes
that video you posted of how your doors pop. i hope that is without the 100lb poppers? kuse mine opens that much or more without a popper, just new door pins and my door adjusted correctly so it moves freely

yah, my pins are a little worn out and the latch is kinda gummed up. one of these days i'll clean it all out so it pops wide open. I almost like it like this better tho, atleast i don't have to worry about those bigass doors slamming into someone's car
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Old May 14, 2004 | 07:26 AM
  #18  
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From: springfield, missouri
Car: 83 firebird, 95 tahoe
Engine: crossfire 305
Transmission: 700r4
I tried to use my lock/unlock solenoid, it wouldnt open the door. I think the door grags too much, any suggestions to get the door to open smoother?
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Old May 14, 2004 | 11:54 AM
  #19  
spekbikes's Avatar
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From: london ontario
Car: 87 iroc
Engine: mild 350
Transmission: 350 turbo
if u push on the door while pressing unlock, will it open then? because it should, everything has to be running 100% smooth for it to open without door poppers(springs) if it doesnt open, then either your linkage isnt being pulled far enoughto open it, or you power door locks are worn out!

new door pins do wonders , my doors dont drag a tiny bit ever since, just get them adjusted correctly so they dont drag and you should be home free!
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Old May 14, 2004 | 01:35 PM
  #20  
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From: Charleston, SC
Car: 91 Camaro Vert
Engine: 02 LS1, HX40
Transmission: 2002 LS1 M6
for thoes that dont know, TDS (they're at the top of this page) sells a complete kit for doing the doors.

he even sells this trick door alignment tool...

http://www.top-downsolutions.com/adv...f68519c5c20dc7
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Old May 14, 2004 | 03:30 PM
  #21  
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From: Central NJ, USA
Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
Now that's a cool tool. Sure beats the door alignment tool's I've seen, with the super-long bar on 'em!
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Old May 14, 2004 | 04:28 PM
  #22  
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From: springfield, missouri
Car: 83 firebird, 95 tahoe
Engine: crossfire 305
Transmission: 700r4
I do have new door pins. The door is just hard to open and shut. if the window is up it is even harder
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Old May 14, 2004 | 04:48 PM
  #23  
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From: 107th and lower buckeye
Car: 91z28 and 88 SC thats for sale,in the sig
Engine: 305 TPI soon 383 stroker or 327
Transmission: t-5
shaving the doors is awesome,ive shaved a few cars. its not to bad, but once you do it you cant take the car to the track. they wont let you run cause if somethin happens u dont got door handles..kinda sux.
once their shaved you just have the doors repainted,or the upper half...
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