I know most of this probably sounds pretty dumb, but I'm just thinking and would probably never do it to my car....


Here's my hood.



And of course, here's my super ram.


The 84 Trans Am's had a "ram air system" to make their hoods functional. It had a tear drop hood with a solenoid and ducting running into the top of the throttle body....and the typical throttle body intake hose was still present. Not sure how much (if any this helped)

If I could fab something silimilar to run into the top of the super ram lid or maybe even into a side-mounted TB (maybe even fabbed to connect somehow to the throttle linkage).

Would this be just utterly dumb or what? Would it help any? If so, would it be noticible? Or would it just completely screw with the air-flow characteristics Lingenfelter designed it for?

On that note...two other (if, else statements)

What about running that ducting down to the brakes to cool them?

or

What about just leaving the hood scoop open? (Being that the scoop faces the opposite direction, does that mean it will let hot air out or cool air in? Or does it do both depending on if you are moving or not?


lol....thanks guys

 

Seen it done on some of the new hoods. PowerBlock few months back had a pickup with a cowl hood on it that used a vacuum solenoid to snap the flap open upon low pressure (throttle open) then it would snap it shut again at idle. Just like the older muscle cars use to do.

Overall it would take a ton of piping to connect back of the hood up with the front TB and you would have to fit a filter in there somewhere.

Leaving the hood open would work. I pulled out my plate on my teardrop hood and left it open for more ventilation. After the got warmed up you could feel a lot of heat coming out of the opening.

I'm sure there is a topic out there somewhere on this... I'm just to lazy to go digging.

 

Yeah I did that with my old Formula.



Rusted some parts out pretty quickly that way.

If I were ever to do it with this hood I would make it with some kind of gasket or flap.

I wasn't talking about running ducting to the throttle body on top. I was talking about running it to a second throttle body that would be side or rear mounted or something.

Here's what my idea was based after. The stock ram air for 3rd gens.

(it's a picture...not a thread)

Has anyone ever reversed their intake to have a rear mounted tb?

 

Hmm I would consider it way to much work for the potential gain.

Basically you'd have to do a ton of modification (throttle cable, trans cable, and cruise control).

You probably couldn't just flip the intake around or it would hit off the distributor.

Basically it's a cool idea but I don't really see it working to well with this intake setup.

 

from what I understand, you want to have a second throttle body that would run to the hoodscoop... when doing this, you've gotta think about how you'd rig up the throttle cable to open that second throttle body at the desired time. ontop of this, the additional air you'll be getting will have to be matched with more fuel.. you'd need to spend a considerable amount of time getting that right to keep your air/fuel ratio at a decent spot. then, you'd also need to design and mount an intake tube and filter box that would work with the hood scoop.

I don't see this setup making that much of a difference.. don't get me wrong, you'd probably feel a small kick when the sucker opens, but I dont think its worth all the work you'll have to put into it. If you're determined to do it, by all means go for it... I just wanted to throw in my and say that the results aren't really worth the hassle

 

Well the ram air won't place positive pressure on the intake, so the computer will be plenty capable of accepting air acoupe dozen degrees colder.

It would be much easier just to cut open the cowl and leave it open and add a second scoop for a cold air induction. I used a March Performance Mustang Scoop for awhile mounted underneath my passenger side bumper. G-tech Pro read 1 to 2 tenths gain on my 1/4 mile testing.

 

Like I said...these are just crazy ideas I would probably never do anyways.

Speaking of which....lol.....I thought of another CrAzY idea.

I have ttops, so I don't even use my AC. Right now, most of the AC components are gone. But what if I were to hook the AC back up and instead of routing the AC through the vents into the inside of the car, I routed them into the intake, or intake house, or air filter box???

Would that cold air make up for the difference in extra weight and the drag put on the belt system? Is there some kind of electric A/C out there?

 

Wouldn't be worth the drag pulley or the pure weight (around 46 lbs I've heard) of having the AC in place. Sounds like you're getting towards the point of electric blowers *cough* leaf blowers.... If you really want to cool down the intake spray a small nitrous shot... super cold!

I toy'd with the idea one time of running a 6-71 with a supercooler plumbed with pure glycol (spelling) ,electric pump, and a cooler then using AC tubing ran through a coolant tank. So you could run AC get coolant super cold then run down the track with AC turned off. But like everything else I don't even have enough money to pay my car insurance or reg. fee (why I haven't drove the car in 1.5 years) so I can dream all I want but it will not get me anywhere.

Keep the ideas coming though, some of my weird projects came from dreaming. Some of which turned out nicely IMO.

 

It is suposed to draw air in from a high pressure area in front of the windshield. While that is possible, most incarnations of "cowl induction" are not placed properly to actually work. The correct location is where your heater/AC system draws air.

If it draws hot air out, that hot air (and exhaust fumes if you have any leaks) will be drawn right in to your heater/ac system. On a good day it will just interfere with your AC working right, on a bad day you get carbonmonoxide poisoning. For this reason, I would not advocate a "heat extractor" hood.

BTW the '82 Crossfire Camaros had a forward facing "scoop" with flaps that were electrically activated. If you decide to do this and go with "flaps" I would recomend a similar electric system.