Im not sure if this has been asked before, but is it technically possible to convert a factory hydraulic lifter to a solid roller? Possibly by simply replacing the inner spring with a steel tube... Is this feasible? Will the lifter be overly heavy? I would like to use a regular Comp solid roller cam, will a factory style, converted lifter cause problems?

If not, does any company make an affordable solid roller lifter to fit in the larger bosses of roller blocks?

Thanks.

 

um, i was under the impression that the lifter had the same diameter between solid flat, hydrualic flat, and hydrualic roller. don't think solid roller would be different.

 

steel tube instead of the inner spring?


To swap from a hydraulic roller, to solid roller is just a cam and lifter swap I believe.
If you're thinking hydraulic flat tappet to solid roller then you need guide plates for example, and the cam and lifters and a few other goodies.

 

It would be a lot heavier than a solid lifter, you'd probably launch it off the lobe.

 

Im well aware of how to swap hyd. to solid, and no I dont want to swap from a flat tappet.

What Id like to know is if there would be any problems associated with essentially turning a hyd. lifter into a solid lifter (both rollers), and using a regular hyd. roller cam.

The lifter diameter isnt relevent, only the inside of the lifter would be modified.

By "larger bosses," I meant taller. I only brought this up because many aftermarket solid roller lifters have horizontal retaining bars that hit on the lifter bosses rather than letting the lifter follow the profile of the cam onto the base circle.

 

Ok, thanks for the input.

 

I've seen it done on Mopars. Don't know if that helps though?

 

ooooh! I thought you mean the motor, converting to a solid roller setup, not actually modifying the lifter itself.... Gotcha, sorry.

Well anyone else knows how this works better than I do, so i'll pipe down.

 

I believe Comp Cams produces a lifter they call the Endure-X which is suppose to be a solid roller with a .300 taller body for the late models. Look to drop $400+ for a set though. Think they also use them for the guys running small base circles too.

 

assuming that whatever you use inside the lifter is cut to an accurate height (at least so all are the same) with an appropriate seat and surface hardness, I don't see why it wouldn't work...

 

why not just buy the solid lifters to match your cam, like people have been doing for years before GM got in the roller cam game

 

COMP, Crane, Lunati, and others all Make a SOLID roller lifter specifically for what your trying to do...

They dont use LINK bars...Instead they are machined to use the stock spider plate and retainers...they are taller so that they bolt in just like stock...as far as converting factory rollers to solid rollers...as in trying to modify the lifter...Well Im not going to touch that one...Leave that question to the guys fixing cylinder heads with JB WELD..

 

Ok thanks for the input.

Ideally, thats what I would like to do, but lack of cash severely limits my options.

Thanks, do you happen to have a link or any part numbers? Do you know if they incorporate an oiling system like the HIPPO Crowers or Red-Zone Iskys? I dont want a set that will self-destruct if the engine idles for a few minutes.

Fair enough.

 

Ill check when I get home... My CRANE ones I had used factory oiling just like the stockers.....They looked identical to stock except with a solid body...oil holes and location were all the same..

 

I have similar lifters. Mine are Crane, .300 taller for factory roller blocks. I have a 4 bolt factory roller 385 stroker, just finished. My concern is the push rod length, 8". Seems long to me considering factory roller motors came with 7.2" push rods. I know my push rods should be somewhat longer due to the fact that my cam is a .631/.631 lft, .248/.254 dur. @.050 solid roller with a small base circle, but 8 inches still seems long. Any input on this would be appreciated. Thanks.

 

Sounds to me like a pushrod geometry checker would be in order. Something similar to http://www.holley.com/products.asp?product=80120 to make sure you have the correct length pushrod and valve stems.