Has anyone made the own exhaust cut-out?
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Joined: Jun 2005
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From: Lafayette,IN
Car: 1987 camaro
Engine: 358
Transmission: TH350
Has anyone made the own exhaust cut-out?
I was want to put an exhaust cut-out on my car and was wondering if anyone has made there own exhaust cut-out with like a choke cable to move the flange. I was thinking about making one and wondering if anyone has done it and if it was hard.
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Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 456
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From: South Texas
Car: 97 200sx se-r, 82 Trans/Am
Engine: 350 bored to 355
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt 3.45
I bought one for a friends import car. The damn flap just broke off. I would consider an electric one. The cable operated one we bought was a waste of money.
As far as building one, I think it would be a waste of money. They are only $30 or so. Now if you converted a cable operated one to electric, that would be something.
By the way, they leak. A lot.
As far as building one, I think it would be a waste of money. They are only $30 or so. Now if you converted a cable operated one to electric, that would be something.
By the way, they leak. A lot.
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 4,500
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From: West Warwick RI, postal code: 02893
Car: Building LS3, T56 Z28
Engine: LS3
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: Moser/ 4.11
I have a 3" one that I think I am selling (electric). Never been used. installed now. But car has no motor, so you can believe that it has never been used. Got it for 160, willing to sell for 110 + shipping it out.
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Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 456
Likes: 1
From: South Texas
Car: 97 200sx se-r, 82 Trans/Am
Engine: 350 bored to 355
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt 3.45
Yeah, the expense is why I never bought one. Something that is really neat for the cable cut outs is the cable itself.
On the handle, the imprinted HOOD RELEASE. That is really cool. That way if someone inspects your car, they don't notice anything out of the ordinary. You can just say that your hood release was broken, and you haven't removed the old cable after you fixed it, or something like that.
It is really cool, but mine leaked a lot. The little flap did not stay closed. Maybe you could weld a throttle body w/ flap to your pipe, and maybe it wouldn't leak as much, but that is a big maybe.
It is too bad I can't find a decent cable driven one, because the reaction is priceless on someone when you rev it and then open it up and rev it again.
On the handle, the imprinted HOOD RELEASE. That is really cool. That way if someone inspects your car, they don't notice anything out of the ordinary. You can just say that your hood release was broken, and you haven't removed the old cable after you fixed it, or something like that.
It is really cool, but mine leaked a lot. The little flap did not stay closed. Maybe you could weld a throttle body w/ flap to your pipe, and maybe it wouldn't leak as much, but that is a big maybe.
It is too bad I can't find a decent cable driven one, because the reaction is priceless on someone when you rev it and then open it up and rev it again.
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Member
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 250
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From: Lafayette,IN
Car: 1987 camaro
Engine: 358
Transmission: TH350
It is too bad I can't find a decent cable driven one, because the reaction is priceless on someone when you rev it and then open it up and rev it again.
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 4,500
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From: West Warwick RI, postal code: 02893
Car: Building LS3, T56 Z28
Engine: LS3
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: Moser/ 4.11
I am gonna have hooker LT's. and then I am gonna pretty much dump it before the rear. You guys think it is still worth keeping cut-outs right after the LT's?
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Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 250
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From: Lafayette,IN
Car: 1987 camaro
Engine: 358
Transmission: TH350
I am gonna have hooker LT's. and then I am gonna pretty much dump it before the rear. You guys think it is still worth keeping cut-outs right after the LT's?
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Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 9,550
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From: Charleston, SC
Car: 91 Camaro Vert
Engine: 02 LS1, HX40
Transmission: 2002 LS1 M6
me and some friends have electric ones.
if your car is a daily driver, they're worth every penny...
you can put a nice quiet exhaust back on.. have a very liveable car. talk to your girlfriend, HEAR the radio, ect... then when you want to rev and be that annoying guy... you can!..... and when you dont want to **** off your neighbors at 3am, you dont have to!
best of both worlds.
if your car is a daily driver, they're worth every penny...
you can put a nice quiet exhaust back on.. have a very liveable car. talk to your girlfriend, HEAR the radio, ect... then when you want to rev and be that annoying guy... you can!..... and when you dont want to **** off your neighbors at 3am, you dont have to!
best of both worlds.
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Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 456
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From: South Texas
Car: 97 200sx se-r, 82 Trans/Am
Engine: 350 bored to 355
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt 3.45
Originally posted by nick05
I am going to do the same exact thing....but I heard you can only do it with Headman LT's
I am going to do the same exact thing....but I heard you can only do it with Headman LT's
I have always heard as a rule of thumb that you need at least 6 inches of pipe after your collector to be safe. Other wise it will suck your exhaust valves right out of the head, I hear.
I don't know the validity to that, but I think it might be bad having open exhaust too close to the heads. Maybe right before the y pipe? That way you still have a little back pressure...
I don't really know from experience though.
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Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 9,550
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From: Charleston, SC
Car: 91 Camaro Vert
Engine: 02 LS1, HX40
Transmission: 2002 LS1 M6
Originally posted by foney_email
I have always heard as a rule of thumb that you need at least 6 inches of pipe after your collector to be safe. Other wise it will suck your exhaust valves right out of the head, I hear.
I don't know the validity to that, but I think it might be bad having open exhaust too close to the heads. Maybe right before the y pipe? That way you still have a little back pressure...
I don't really know from experience though.
I have always heard as a rule of thumb that you need at least 6 inches of pipe after your collector to be safe. Other wise it will suck your exhaust valves right out of the head, I hear.
I don't know the validity to that, but I think it might be bad having open exhaust too close to the heads. Maybe right before the y pipe? That way you still have a little back pressure...
I don't really know from experience though.
you dont need anything after the collectors as long as:
1. you arnt going to burn anything.
2. you are not running O2 sensors... O2 sensors at idle or low RPM might get some fresh air on them from reverb.
you will NOT "burn a valve" with open headers. and you do NOT want backpressure.... less velocity perhaps, but NOT backpressure.
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Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 250
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From: Lafayette,IN
Car: 1987 camaro
Engine: 358
Transmission: TH350
My exhaust isnt going to be that short, I am just going to put 2, 2 1/2 inch pipes down the car and put like a Morosso Spiral Flow muffler on it and dump it right before the rearend....does anybody know if Headman LT's are the only headers you will be able to use with a set-up like that without making any bends? Just put a x-tension on the header will be the only bend.
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 4,500
Likes: 90
From: West Warwick RI, postal code: 02893
Car: Building LS3, T56 Z28
Engine: LS3
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: Moser/ 4.11
prety sure they are the best way to go for the $. The next step up in headers, you are lookin at over a grand.
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Joined: Jul 2005
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From: Irving, TX
Car: 1985 IROC
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
If the cam is small on your 305 then you want a little backpressure. This is required so the there is exhaust scavanging. In my experience, only race motors with big cams will run better with open headers. I'm not saying your 305 won't run, with open exhaust, with some timing and mixtured work. But, you will get better performance with a little backpressure. If you do use a cutout, then I would suggest putting it a little ways down your exhaust.
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