welders/metal experts: need advice
#1
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Car: 89 RS
Engine: 6.3L Megasquirted HSR
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.70 Posi 9 bolt
welders/metal experts: need advice
Heres the low down. I got some long tubes from this guy I work with about a year ago. He TOLD me that they were hookers, and they were made for 3rd gen camaros. 1 7/8" primaries, which would have been overkill, but thats besides the point. Well, he said I might have to notch the engine cradle a little. Well before I knew it, I took out a pretty big chunk. I was thinkin about gettin some angle iron and weldin it into the hole to support/brace it. Im puttin in a ~400hp 383, so I wanna make sure itll hold up. It doesnt have to be rock solid, but good enough not to twist. Heres a link to a pic I took this afternoon. (kinda big file too, sorry )
What cha thinik?
BTW: They werent made for a 3rd gen camaro, they were for a 2nd gen . Hence why I had to take out so much.
What cha thinik?
BTW: They werent made for a 3rd gen camaro, they were for a 2nd gen . Hence why I had to take out so much.
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Car: 88GTAnotchbac/91 -Z/66 Chevelle
Engine: All strokers
Transmission: Pro built 700r4's
Well it depends on your fabrication skills. Anything is possible. If your good.
Personally I would have set the motor in there with the headers attached to that side and attempt to get a mock up and take as little off as possible even if you had to do it 3 or 4 times.
rob
Personally I would have set the motor in there with the headers attached to that side and attempt to get a mock up and take as little off as possible even if you had to do it 3 or 4 times.
rob
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Car: 89 RS
Engine: 6.3L Megasquirted HSR
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.70 Posi 9 bolt
Originally posted by robsgta
Personally I would have set the motor in there with the headers attached to that side and attempt to get a mock up and take as little off as possible even if you had to do it 3 or 4 times.
rob
Personally I would have set the motor in there with the headers attached to that side and attempt to get a mock up and take as little off as possible even if you had to do it 3 or 4 times.
rob
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Car: clapped out 84Z
Engine: 355 efi roller
Transmission: tremec TKO
Hope you got a mig welder and a pile of scrap. Did Sam the butcher do this, or Alice? Get some sheet metal about the same thickness as the k-member, and be prepared to improvise. Good luck and via con dios!!
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Car: 89 jaguar xjs convertable
Engine: 89 L98 5.7 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23 dana 44
#1 get some .125 metal and "box" in where ever you cut. Make a new plate for each cut and weld that plate to the bottom piece of the cross member now showing. Boxing it will strengthen it.
#2 If you can't weld with any kind of "decent penetration" or "skill" , disregard #1! You will only make a weak link weaker.
#2 If you can't weld with any kind of "decent penetration" or "skill" , disregard #1! You will only make a weak link weaker.
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Car: 91 Camaro RS
Engine: TBI
Transmission: 700r4
Originally posted by Rob Wade
#1 get some .125 metal and "box" in where ever you cut. Make a new plate for each cut and weld that plate to the bottom piece of the cross member now showing. Boxing it will strengthen it.
#2 If you can't weld with any kind of "decent penetration" or "skill" , disregard #1! You will only make a weak link weaker.
#1 get some .125 metal and "box" in where ever you cut. Make a new plate for each cut and weld that plate to the bottom piece of the cross member now showing. Boxing it will strengthen it.
#2 If you can't weld with any kind of "decent penetration" or "skill" , disregard #1! You will only make a weak link weaker.
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Car: 86 IROC, 04 Ram, 05 SRT-4, 95 CBR
Engine: LB9, 5.7 Hemi, 2.4 turbo, 600cc
Transmission: 700-R4
Axle/Gears: 26 spline 3.42's for now
you can box it it in with sheet metal or just give in to the tubular setup and shave some weight at the same time.
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