Isolating my cowl induction
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Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 38
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From: Tishomingo, MS
Car: '84 Trans Am
Engine: 350
Transmission: T-5
Isolating my cowl induction
Ok, here is a freakin' novel! sorry for the length!
We got our '84 T/A about a month ago and it is great! I am getting to know the car and planning just a few upgrades as time and money allow. THe car has the functional cowl induction setup, however, the P.O. removed the solenoid and, *i think* the induction unit that mates to the air cleaner. I think he got a little "overzealous" in trying to make it pull cold air constantly, not just under WOT.
I do not want to reconnect the solenoid either. I just need to figure out how to seal off my air cleaner assembly so that it just pulls air ONLY from the cowl opening and snorkel. Right now it has nothing to isolate the hole in the lid from the hot air in the engine compartment, so that is what I want to fix.
I have searched, but have been unable to find an article dealing with fabbing something like I am thinking of. Here goes, I am thinking of welding a plate of aluminum or chromed steel under the hood matching the induction channel with a hole cut out that matches the outside diameter of the cleaner assembly , then attaching h.d. foam or something to seal the cleaner assembly to the cowl induction, making sure my carb only gets cold air!
What are ya'lls suggestions?
We got our '84 T/A about a month ago and it is great! I am getting to know the car and planning just a few upgrades as time and money allow. THe car has the functional cowl induction setup, however, the P.O. removed the solenoid and, *i think* the induction unit that mates to the air cleaner. I think he got a little "overzealous" in trying to make it pull cold air constantly, not just under WOT.
I do not want to reconnect the solenoid either. I just need to figure out how to seal off my air cleaner assembly so that it just pulls air ONLY from the cowl opening and snorkel. Right now it has nothing to isolate the hole in the lid from the hot air in the engine compartment, so that is what I want to fix.
I have searched, but have been unable to find an article dealing with fabbing something like I am thinking of. Here goes, I am thinking of welding a plate of aluminum or chromed steel under the hood matching the induction channel with a hole cut out that matches the outside diameter of the cleaner assembly , then attaching h.d. foam or something to seal the cleaner assembly to the cowl induction, making sure my carb only gets cold air!
What are ya'lls suggestions?
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Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 10,763
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
I was asking about something like this before, maybe my thread can help you out?
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...&highlight=CAI
Edit: Most specifically, the link I give on my first post.
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...&highlight=CAI
Edit: Most specifically, the link I give on my first post.
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From: Boosted Land
Car: 92 Z28
Engine: Boosted LSX
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From: 5280FT.
Car: 1987 Firebird Formula
Engine: 305 LG4
Transmission: 700R4
That article that Sonix mentioned from highoutput.com is what I had in mind also. During cold or rainy weather you could just block off the hood buldge so you're just taking in air through the snorkle(s) under the hood.
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Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 900
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From: Haslett, MI
Car: 1984 Trans Am WS6
Engine: Minirammed 385, 396 RWHP
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.73 Moser 12-bolt

I made this in about an hour back in 1999 and it draws all cold air through the scoop.
Is this about what you were thinking?
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iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 10,763
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
hmm, yea that's the idea.... The idea on that website I linked uses just a big air cleaner base, and a small air cleaner top, so it'd have less flow area then yours, but looks a little nicer... however yours wouldn't need to screw up the hood... maybe I'll do that way 
Is that just a plate of AL bolted onto the carb, then the air cleaner sits on it? that is nice and simple...

Is that just a plate of AL bolted onto the carb, then the air cleaner sits on it? that is nice and simple...
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Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,768
Likes: 2
From: Gambrills, Md
Car: clapped out 84Z
Engine: 355 efi roller
Transmission: tremec TKO
I used a thin piece of sheetmetal from lowes, cut a large hole in the middle, and welded it to an air filter base. I added a 3/4" or 1" lip around it (mcmaster carr sells long strips of it so no tedious cutting required). I also bent it in the back to both clear the distributor and for extra strength. The foam was glued on with 3M weatherstrip adhesive. My neighbor helped me trim the foam once it was bolted on. He used one of those really sharp carpet knives which cut the foam really well.
Last edited by Lo-tec; Jan 13, 2006 at 02:15 PM.
Senior Member

Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 900
Likes: 1
From: Haslett, MI
Car: 1984 Trans Am WS6
Engine: Minirammed 385, 396 RWHP
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.73 Moser 12-bolt
Originally posted by Lo-tec
I used a thin piece of sheetmetal from lowes, cut a large hole in the middle, and welded it to an air filter base. I added a 3/4" or 1" lip around it (mcmaster carr sells long strips of it so no tedious cutting required). I also bent it in the back to both clear the distributor and for extra strength. The foam was glued on with 3M weatherstrip adhesive. My neighbor helped me trim the foam once it was bolted on. He used one of those really sharp carpet knives which cut the foam really well.
I used a thin piece of sheetmetal from lowes, cut a large hole in the middle, and welded it to an air filter base. I added a 3/4" or 1" lip around it (mcmaster carr sells long strips of it so no tedious cutting required). I also bent it in the back to both clear the distributor and for extra strength. The foam was glued on with 3M weatherstrip adhesive. My neighbor helped me trim the foam once it was bolted on. He used one of those really sharp carpet knives which cut the foam really well.
Mine was made in an hour with an old air conditioning duct, kevlar gloves, some duct tape, tin snips, some closed cell neoprene industrial insulating foam , some 3M weatherstrip adhesive, and a magic marker.
Ugly yes, but cheap and effective.
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From: Toledo, OH
Car: 1982 Trans Am
Engine: SBC 400
Transmission: 700-R4
Axle/Gears: 9 Bolt 2.77
I was thinking of doing something silimar...Good thing I used the
button!
Anyway, after deciding not to go the CFI route I had planned earlier, I have decided to keep my current carb setup. I have the exact same K&N air filter in the photo above. Now while the filter can draw in more air, my concern is that engine bay generates A LOT of heat and it's just sucking in all the hot air. I have the power bulge hood, with none of the hood induction parts attached, so it is just open to the outside. I'm sure very little if any outside air is getting inside to the filter and if it is, it's not much to do anything. I wanted to know if I could just use the carb hood induction setup with the same air filter I have or will I have clearance issuses? Would I have to get a different filter?? And lastly would there be any difference in performance as far as the heat goes compared to the restriction of the hood induction unit being used? I know heat is your enemy, however with a more restrictive setup would it even make any difference if the air was cooler/more restrictive vs. hotter/less restrictive?
button!Anyway, after deciding not to go the CFI route I had planned earlier, I have decided to keep my current carb setup. I have the exact same K&N air filter in the photo above. Now while the filter can draw in more air, my concern is that engine bay generates A LOT of heat and it's just sucking in all the hot air. I have the power bulge hood, with none of the hood induction parts attached, so it is just open to the outside. I'm sure very little if any outside air is getting inside to the filter and if it is, it's not much to do anything. I wanted to know if I could just use the carb hood induction setup with the same air filter I have or will I have clearance issuses? Would I have to get a different filter?? And lastly would there be any difference in performance as far as the heat goes compared to the restriction of the hood induction unit being used? I know heat is your enemy, however with a more restrictive setup would it even make any difference if the air was cooler/more restrictive vs. hotter/less restrictive?
TGO Supporter
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,768
Likes: 2
From: Gambrills, Md
Car: clapped out 84Z
Engine: 355 efi roller
Transmission: tremec TKO
How large is the opening of the hole for the power bulge hood?
As far as clearance issues, get a large sheet of sturdy cardboard and some masking tape, and mock it up. I used a 14" radius for the front section (1/2 circle) with the carb stud being the center, and then went straight back until it hit the firewall.
As far as clearance issues, get a large sheet of sturdy cardboard and some masking tape, and mock it up. I used a 14" radius for the front section (1/2 circle) with the carb stud being the center, and then went straight back until it hit the firewall.
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iTrader: (1)
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,372
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From: Toledo, OH
Car: 1982 Trans Am
Engine: SBC 400
Transmission: 700-R4
Axle/Gears: 9 Bolt 2.77
Originally posted by Lo-tec
How large is the opening of the hole for the power bulge hood?
How large is the opening of the hole for the power bulge hood?
Supreme Member
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 1,701
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From: San Diego, CA
Car: 1991 Camaro RS
Engine: LO3
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42 LS1
Anyone tried that setup, i.e. foam but with ram air ? Would it hold up at higher speeds ?
Still trying to find somewhat decent foam, damn Home Depot didn't have anything as usual.
Still trying to find somewhat decent foam, damn Home Depot didn't have anything as usual.
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