Making wheel adapters
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 5,028
Likes: 78
From: Desert
Car: 1991 Z28 Vert
Engine: 383 single plane efi
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 8.8 with 3.73s
Making wheel adapters
I recently came across an unbeliveable deal on a set of wheels and tires (17x8). Bad thing is is that they were originally for a front wheel drive car. So as we all know they will not fit a 3'rd gen axle and the backspacing is off.
What I will have to do is make an adapter that will do two things:
1. Act as a spacer for correct wheel fitment.
2. Adapt the new bolt circle to the axle's bolt circle.
My plan is to get a solid piece of steel or aluminum and have it milled down to the correct thickness on the mill-drill. Then I will have to drill the holes out to fit the axle studs and the wheel. The adapter will have to sets of holes (bolt circles) Both sets will be facing opposite directions. One way to bolt the adapter to the axle, and the other wy to blt the wheel on to.
My main concerns are as follows:
1. Which series aluminum or steel should I use?
2. How can I ensure that both bolt circles will rotate around EXACTLY the same center point? If the point is off at all, it will wobble.
3. I have to make the adapter a perfect circle to prevent throwing the balance off or vibrating at higher speeds.
Is there anyone around here that has done this before? I looked at the price for 2 sets of these and they are through the roof. $80-120 per adapter. That is $320-$480 for all four!
What I will have to do is make an adapter that will do two things:
1. Act as a spacer for correct wheel fitment.
2. Adapt the new bolt circle to the axle's bolt circle.
My plan is to get a solid piece of steel or aluminum and have it milled down to the correct thickness on the mill-drill. Then I will have to drill the holes out to fit the axle studs and the wheel. The adapter will have to sets of holes (bolt circles) Both sets will be facing opposite directions. One way to bolt the adapter to the axle, and the other wy to blt the wheel on to.
My main concerns are as follows:
1. Which series aluminum or steel should I use?
2. How can I ensure that both bolt circles will rotate around EXACTLY the same center point? If the point is off at all, it will wobble.
3. I have to make the adapter a perfect circle to prevent throwing the balance off or vibrating at higher speeds.
Is there anyone around here that has done this before? I looked at the price for 2 sets of these and they are through the roof. $80-120 per adapter. That is $320-$480 for all four!
Last edited by Tibo; Dec 12, 2005 at 12:45 PM.
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 4,506
Likes: 95
From: West Warwick RI, postal code: 02893
Car: Building LS3, T56 Z28
Engine: LS3
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: Moser/ 4.11
Don't know about you, but that price sounds about right for all the trouble that you would have to go through to do it by yourself. Think about it, just pay the 500 bucks and sit back and wait for them to show up.
Just an opinion from a person running 2" spacers on all 4 corners.
Just an opinion from a person running 2" spacers on all 4 corners.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 5,028
Likes: 78
From: Desert
Car: 1991 Z28 Vert
Engine: 383 single plane efi
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 8.8 with 3.73s
Originally posted by dennisbernal91z
Don't know about you, but that price sounds about right for all the trouble that you would have to go through to do it by yourself. Think about it, just pay the 500 bucks and sit back and wait for them to show up.
Just an opinion from a person running 2" spacers on all 4 corners.
Don't know about you, but that price sounds about right for all the trouble that you would have to go through to do it by yourself. Think about it, just pay the 500 bucks and sit back and wait for them to show up.
Just an opinion from a person running 2" spacers on all 4 corners.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 5,028
Likes: 78
From: Desert
Car: 1991 Z28 Vert
Engine: 383 single plane efi
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 8.8 with 3.73s
I am going ahead and making the wheel adapters myself. The following is some usefull info for stock wheels/axles I have calculated:
Diameter=4.75"
Circumference=14.9226"
Radius=2.375"
Arc length from bolt to bolt=2.9845"
Distance from bolt to bolt=2.7919"
Angle from radius to bolts=72*
That was found using trigonometry, not measuring. So you may assume that is more accurate than measuring.
Diameter=4.75"
Circumference=14.9226"
Radius=2.375"
Arc length from bolt to bolt=2.9845"
Distance from bolt to bolt=2.7919"
Angle from radius to bolts=72*
That was found using trigonometry, not measuring. So you may assume that is more accurate than measuring.
cutting aluminum on a lathe is alot easier than steel
you dont even need a sharp tool bit
but i forgot the type aluminums, so i couldnt tell u what to use or even if its good enough
and using a lathe is easy enough, if u can get the metal and access to a lathe, do it youself, its fun
you dont even need a sharp tool bit
but i forgot the type aluminums, so i couldnt tell u what to use or even if its good enough
and using a lathe is easy enough, if u can get the metal and access to a lathe, do it youself, its fun
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 5,028
Likes: 78
From: Desert
Car: 1991 Z28 Vert
Engine: 383 single plane efi
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 8.8 with 3.73s
Originally posted by respectirocz
cutting aluminum on a lathe is alot easier than steel
you dont even need a sharp tool bit
but i forgot the type aluminums, so i couldnt tell u what to use or even if its good enough
and using a lathe is easy enough, if u can get the metal and access to a lathe, do it youself, its fun
cutting aluminum on a lathe is alot easier than steel
you dont even need a sharp tool bit
but i forgot the type aluminums, so i couldnt tell u what to use or even if its good enough
and using a lathe is easy enough, if u can get the metal and access to a lathe, do it youself, its fun
Supreme Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 10,763
Likes: 4
From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
chances are that'd be 6061 AL, soft as butter. Once you put the bolts through it, to hold it to the current axle, and new wheels studs, I can imagine them ovalizing the holes.
I'd use a medium steel, 1040 maybe. See if you can get 1/2" plate. I got some 1/2" SS plate for cheap $40, in the scrap pile at the metal shop. In the scrap pile it's simply sold by weight, and it was dirt cheap.
Then cut it into rough discs on the mill using a.... I forget the tool, you bolt your workpiece on it, and you can rotate the piece around, while using your milling bit to make a circle....not terribly accurate.
Then put it on a lathe to make it perfect. Probably have to use the lathe to drill all the holes in it as well. I am not versed in lathe use though, so my help ends there
I'd use a medium steel, 1040 maybe. See if you can get 1/2" plate. I got some 1/2" SS plate for cheap $40, in the scrap pile at the metal shop. In the scrap pile it's simply sold by weight, and it was dirt cheap.
Then cut it into rough discs on the mill using a.... I forget the tool, you bolt your workpiece on it, and you can rotate the piece around, while using your milling bit to make a circle....not terribly accurate.
Then put it on a lathe to make it perfect. Probably have to use the lathe to drill all the holes in it as well. I am not versed in lathe use though, so my help ends there
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