What would be the some of the best degrees for the rear control arms?

 

Probably get alot of recommendations but for general
purposes you would want the rear slightly lower than the
front.
The lower the rear, the more plant you would get.
Most kits come with three or four locations.

Mine probably 1 to 2 degrees and hooks good. I had to
do it because car lowered 2" front and 1.25 in rear.
Spohn kit--Bottom hole.



Later

 

I know im just wounding what the ideal angle in degrees is, and im sure there's different specs for each thing like "roard racing" "drags" "street" ect...
the kits like spohn are great but its a hit or miss depending on how low you are i mean if your at a 2" drop you can use them and still have a decent angle but im just wondering what the idea angle is (or sweat spot) for all around street/road race intent

 

For the street and road handling, horizontal would
probably be the best. Although under load or cornering
slight rear drop would keep bar level.

If having a rear traction problem, lowering the rear
bar hookup helps.

Every car is going to be a little different as to what it
needs. No set rule.



Later

 

you would get massove wheel hop if they where horizontal. i know every cars diff thats what i was saying, but what is the ideal angle in dregess for the rear LCA's? (the angle of the LCAs) a car can be as low or it can be stock doesnt matter at all just looking for the ideal angle.........

 

I’ve said this before, you will not get wheel hop unless something is broken or worn out in the rear suspension… and I always get the same answer “I checked everything and nothing is broken or worn out.” Well, I believe that _you_ didn’t find anything, try again, if you’re getting wheel hop something is broken or worn out.

The correct angle… that depends on your exact application. For road racing and heavy street use you want the back of the control arms a little higher than the front, so you can’t get roll over steer on corner entry or exit.

For a straight line car it depends a lot on what else is done to the suspension and what tires you’re running. As the back of the control arm gets lower relative to the front the harder the rear suspension hits off the line. A slick with it’s soft sidewalls will tolerate a much harder hit than a drag radial, which

 

Good post mark... You will not get wheel hop from the bars being horizontal. Thats how control arms are designed to run. Same with other cars such as Jeeps.... Arms are horizontal from factory. I will say that I get wheel hop in reverse if Im too generous with the throttle...but its reverse. Reverse is for getting out of parking spots or doing 3-point turns. Not for launching.

I run mine horizontal at the moment. I have an Eibach Pro Kit, and Spohn relocation brackets. My bars are set on the TOP hole, and they are perfect. When I go to the track, I bump them down to the bottom hole, adjust my torque arm alittle bit, and it hits like a sledge hammer.

Everything has to work together. Any little worn out piece will cause other parts to not be able to do their jobs 100%.

If you want some more info....there are a few good sites that have some quick suspension geometry "lessons" that show how different settings affect different situations with different suspension designs. Some good stuff....if I remember/come across any of them Ill post em up for craps and giggles.

J.

 

Heh, looks like I didn’t finish my train of thought… anyway, with a softer tire that can absorb energy then moving them down works, but with something that has a stiffer sidewall like a drag radial or a street radial, hitting the tires harder doesn’t help because they can’t absorb the extra energy.

I have relo brackets on my WS6 and on drag radials (275/40-17, not much sidewall) I found that either of the lower locations hit hard off the line, and the tires would stick for a few feet out of the hole, but then they hit the limit of the energy that they could absorb and would literally bounce off the pavement and loose traction.

 

With 17" Drag radials, pure slicks or whatever, there
is going to be a problem hooking up with any kind of
serious power.

All most like coming to the end of suspension travel.
16" are bad enough, thats why I have a rear spare set of
15" rims with the good rubber for those special occasions.
More cushion for the pushing.

Later

 

hmm, i run mine level and the tires dont seem to hop

 

ya you hooked

 

I read in a herb adams suspension book that lowering the rear of the lower control arms in a torque arm car does absoloutely nothing. The reason for this is that the lower arms do nothing more than control front to back movement. The torque arm does all of the "lifting" and wieght transfer. It is different in a 4 link car be it drag only or factory GM 4 link and the reason there is because the upper arms are mounted on a pivot at both ends not fixed at the back like the torque arm. Any thoughts?

 

yes and no,

from what I have been playing with I find it makes a diffeance on our cars but not a night and day differance unless your car is lowered and well messed up the angle as a result. soft setups will notice a differance as well.


they do work just not like some will have you belive

 

the lower arms push the car, so i wouldnt say they do nothing except hold the axle in place. Moving the arms wont change the instant center like a 4 link, but it will affect how the car plants the tire.