I had to remove the torque-arm, to make some space for the exhaust, and made a new arm on the top of the rearaxl. This is now adjustable in lenght and I'm planning to make it adjustable in height too.
Works fine, no big issues yet.





More pics here: http://www.dudez.no/imagegallery/thu...lastup&cat=-71
And some more info here: http://www.dfwss.org/smf/index.php?topic=9643.0

 

This design is just for testing purposes, I'll test it some more.. And then I'll decide if I'll go for this 3-link or just build 4-link.

 

Hmmm. I like the idea. Let us know how it works for you.

 

That looks like a lot of good fabrication!! Awesome idea i bet no one ever did that before.

Is that last pic a LCA?

 

No it's the top-link, just made it adjustable. I had to adjust the pinion-angle, so I made it adjustable.
As I said this is just to see how it works, will redo everything if it works.
The LCA's are from spohn, also have coliovers in front and rear from spohn, and panhard from spohn.
This car is made for drifting and just funny driving.

Something like this... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=siHQA...eature=related

 

You're going to have problems.

The suspension is going to bind or change the pinion angle as the diff moves up and down, unless the top link is the same length as the LCA.

 

I've thought of that, but the springs is so hard, that it's not much movement. This car is set up for drifting and is stiff as hell.
I just had to try this, but 4-link may be the end solution.

 

I have. On my CP autocross Camaro. My upper link ended up being 16 inches long. It was recomended to me that the upper link should be approximatly 3/4 the length of the lower arms. I used a torque absorber style bar from a circle track supplier. My rear suspension is also very stiff with 425 lb springs but I still get a couple inches of movement. BTW most of the CP cars use a 3 link rear suspension very similar to what I have because they just flat out work in this situation. I know my car gets better traction with the 3 link then it did with the torque arm.

To me it looks like you will need a little more angle sloping forward on the upper link. I had to angle mine a lot more then I thought to finally get decent traction. I also have my bar mounted higher on the rear end housing but not sure if that will work for you because of gas tank clearance.

I know I shouldn't make this my first post but I just had to respond to this thread.

 

double post

 

Just a thought to avoid binding why don't you move the cross bar up 3-4 inches put a bushing on it and have 2 pieces of metal come down to you're rod end simaler to the sphon tourqe arm mount just upside down. this will keep the rear from binding when it trys to move it the arc of the lca.

 

There shouldn't be any bind on a 3 link suspension, unless you really screw up. I put a link to a decent picture of a 3 link http://www.lateral-dynamics.com/prod...k_iso_view.jpg Ladder bars bind, 4 links can bind but it is pretty hard to make a 3 link bind.

BTW the upper link is mounted to the rear axle with a rod end, it is not solidly mounted to the rear axle as a torque arm is so making the front mount like a spohn torque arm mount won't work.

 

I think he's talking about putting a short vertical arm at the front to allow fore-and-aft movement.

 

That pic of the 3rd link is fantastic!
Is there any pics online that show the difference between all the styles?

torque arm
3 link
4 link
ladder bars?

I now have the first two figured out, what's the difference between a 4 link and ladder bars?

Also, on the picture, what controls lateral movement? I'm only looking at the blue bars, is there like a watts link on the back?

 

The lower arms are angled inwards to control lateral movement.

 

This on has a watts link.
http://www.lateral-dynamics.com/prod...s_iso_rear.jpg

I have some good drawings of the differences between a torque arm and 3 link but don't have access to them on my work computer. Might even have 4 link.

 

Do you have any pics of the rearend in your car?
As I've said this is just for testing, and I'm very pleased you guys respond to it. We have built several 4-link solutions on our Pro-Street cars. But make a car handle is new for us.

I've just got the stock rearaxl, waiting to get a 9". Then I will get the mount higher. Clearance is no problem, I've installed a fuelcell.

 

A 3 link still requires something for lateral movement right?
A 4 link has the bars angled in (like on a fox body mustang rear?), such that no lateral bars are needed?

ladder bars also require some type of lateral support?

 

Sorry, I don't have pictures of my rear suspension. I did it a couple years ago and never thought to take any pictures. Every thing is covered now. The only thing I can say is, even after 2 years I am still makeing adjustments on the rear. Even though it gets pretty good forward bite it could be better. I think you made the right choice with the 3 link, it will just take a little expermenting to make it right.

 

Torque arm, ladder bars, 3 link and 4 link all need some sort of device to prevent lateral movement.

Factory 4 link systems such as a Fox or G-body use a triangulated 4-link which doesn't need a lateral bar.

Third gens already use a panhard bar to keep the diff centered under the diff. The downside to a panhard bar is that as the diff moves up and down, the bar allows the diff to move in an arc. This means in it's neutral position, the diff is as far to the left as possible. As it moves up and down, it's actually moving slightly to the right. Because the third gen panhard bar is so long, the distance is hardly measurable through normal suspension travel.

Other forms of centering the diff is with a watts link as mentioned above. This works similarly to a panhard bar but eliminates the arc.

Most 4-link and ladder bar suspensions use either a diagonal link or a wishbone to keep the diff centered. Both keep the diff centered through full suspension travel.

 

So, out of curiosity, without any hint of bias, which is better overall? I know that's a loaded question, but I know ladder bars are better for drag racing only.
But 3 link, 4 link, and torque arm, which is better for a street car? I figured a decoupled short arm torque arm setup would be best...?

 

Pretty nice set up. Have you had any ideas for angle?

 

Oh I thought the arm was mounted solidly to the diff. Nevermind my sujestion then. I couldn't see in the pics.

 

The torque arm is very good for a street car and even works well for autocross and drag racing. I just couldn't make it work with my car, Not sure why but I had very little forward bite. The decoupled torque arm looks interesting and I even looked into that before I decided on a 3 link. Huge antisquat without brake hop, I think it would work well in allmost any application. I went with a 3 link because it is what most competitive CP cars run and was highly recomended because of its adjustability. As far as a street car, just improve on what came from factory. I have even seen leaf spring cars that had increadible launches with very little work done to them.

When I was younger I ran ladder bars on one of my street/strip cars but I don't think I would run an aftermarket 3-4 link or ladder bar setup on a daily driven street car. If it was Something that I would only drive occaisonally it would be allright but now that I am older you just can't beat stock reliability.