here it is guys... now tear it apart
custom AC delete box, made out of fiberglass, then bondo, then paint, fits in factory mounting, heater core removed, only need cool air for defrosting purposes, also the fan resistors that control blower motor speed have been removed. fan speed will be max all the time and controlled by a custom on/off switch.

box weighs maybe 2 pounds, stiff as hell and gives lots of clearance, also has smooth transition from box to firewall(which will be painted black soon)

let me kno what you think, also is the blower motor cooler hose necessary? i kno in stock form it was plumbed into the moving air but would ambiant air suffice?

yes it does look like a fiberglass sub box... i wanted a smooth look compared to the stock, BOX thats just bolted to the firewall. flows nicely into the firewall i do have to say

 

one more, hard to see due to the wiring im doing. better pics with the motor installed i promise

 

Nice fab skills bro, very nice. I made a fiberglass delete box for mine too, love it. It looks kinda big, but very smooth and low profile against the firewall. now you have plenty of room for headers or those pesky coil packs on an LS1

As far as the cooling tube, I'm not sure. I imagine that motor gets kinda hot, especially if your planning on running it max only. When I made mine I cut up a spare box and used the motor end to fiberglass off of. That way I had the flat mounting surface and the cooling tube port.


Max,

 

thanks, yea it was large... bc i wanted to use all the stock mounting points. also by making it large it doesnt look like a heater box but part of the firewall. u cant even see the box unless u look where the 2 bolts are that are visible. i believe its height is less than 2" throughout the last half of the box... i wanted it very low profile so i would have no trouble at the rear of the motor.

yea i kno it needs air for continuous use but im wondering if short runs for just defoger would still be aproblem? i already took out the heater core/heater controls, blower motor relay etc.... and im gona set the ductwork on defrost only. i was thinking of just cuting a hole if needed and putting a straight peice of thin PVC or something, then just seal it and call it day, but id rather not cut into the box if not needed

 

[QUOTE=customblackbird;3978727.
i already took out the heater core/heater controls, blower motor relay etc.... [/QUOTE]

Hooking it up single speed wont be a problem. I will say though, if your rewiring the whole thing, make sure you use a relay on it. Otherwise your probably going to end up with some nasty voltage spikes. You might even cook your switch, happened to me before.

Max

 

yea i left the relay in. just connected the orange wire out of the relay to the blue wire that is on the plug that plugs in behind the heater switch in the center instrament panel and hooked that to my switch... and called it a day. i tested it all with and ohm meter... it was interesting to figure all that out tho.

should i plug the whole on the blower motor? or just leave the tub like it is and hope air is pushed in/gets in there

 

Well, being that the motor is spinning(the armatures). I would think that it might draw air in, or a least circulate. This also means that it could draw in moisture/debris as well. You might take the rubber tube that goes in the hole and make some kind filter/screen for the end of it. Zip tie a square of screen and a piece of foam pre-filter over it. Though that might detract a bit from the clean look you have going there, you could always point it down under the wiring.


Max,

 

yea i might stick a cool filter or something on it. or exactly how i have it which is down by the wiring. thanks again! i asked my dad if it would draw in air (hes an electrical engineer) and he said he doesnt think it would, if any a small amount which is why its tapped into the forced air on the housing by the motor. motor will only be used for defrosting purposes so wont be on ever really.

 

For the fan tube, I took a hole saw a littler larger than the tube that came out of the factory box and cut it out, then cut a hole in the new ac delete cover just a bit bigger than the tube it's self. I slid the tube form the inside out and epoxied into the new ac delete cover, since I drilled the tube out of the factory one a size bigger it left a flange at the bottom so it could not pull all the way through the ac delete cover, looks like factory

 

Nice job with the a/c delete. Saves a good amount in the engine bay.

 

yea i was thinking of that but i dont really care too much...i mean it cant push that much air through the tube and the motor doesnt suck in any air, so i dont see how it befits too much from it.

thanks rich2279, thats what i was going for, low profile so u dont even notice it agains the firewall. should get alot of room with it

 

huh... kind of like an interesting organic blob...

It's really not that hard to add a cooling tube (I wouldn't want to be sucking air into anything from up over the exhaust manifolds) or to add the coils, here's mine:


If someone is interested, I wrote up instructions here:
http://mpikas.blogspot.com/2007/12/m...3rd-gen-f.html

 

I was looking for something like that. I have an A/C style box and I guess I can use that as a guide.

 

83 crossfire TA. lol yea thanks. ive built fiberglass sub boxes a few times so i took what i learned and applyied it. thats what subboxes usually look like i guess. i wanted it to be smooth and not like this TRANSFORMER box thats attached to the firewall and sticks out like sum kind of tumor lol. but i read ur whole write up a few times and saw wat u did. urs turned out rreally good. the cooling tube is just stupid lol.