here are some pics i took of my car over the past month. just sent it off to sandblasting today.

 

new floor pans from classic industries, tubs from streetnshow.com and year one sent me quarter panels for a TA!!! its ok ill make them work since im shaving my tail lights anyways

 

yea i'm putting lambo doors on the maro too.... i have a good idea on what to do. also had to add some more supports when i cut the floor pans out. i just have the new floor pans laying in there for now to see how they fit... its going to need some slight persuasion from a BFH haha

 

i had to cut the inner and outer wheel house and the quarter out to make room for my tubs

 

looks like a nice project! lets see some updates when u get working on it im sure it cost u a ton bc i kno classic industries is not cheap

just a couple questions... how are u gona sit in the driver seat when u have that roll cage going through where the seat would be? or is that just to keep the cars frame from changing?

how much did it cost for the lambo doors? floor pans? and the tubs? i always wanted to do tubs but my roll bar and having to change all the suspension in the back would prevent me from doing it. but i can fit 315 tires in there without issue now

 

i was going to be a smart *** and ask the same question, you beat me to it.

its bracing to keep the car from moving when he cuts the floors out.

 

thats what i figured... kinda annoying to have to take that all out again.

 

That will be 1 sweet ride!!

 

My only question is, when are you gonna start on mine?

 

haha yea thats what the bracing is for is to keep the car from folding like a pretzel. you have no idea how many ppl have asked me how are you going to sit in there with the roll cage like that... i just laugh. but i think the tubs cost me $100 and the floor pans cost $500 for both at the same time and are $305 individually. the quarters were i think $100 a piece and the lambo doors were like $340 from airbagit, they come with 2 struts per side rated at 100lbs a piece. also i bought shaved door handle kit for like $100 for the same company. i compared prices and looked for the best. im going to make the quarters 3" wider and raise the "fender flair" 3" to make a larger opening and if my math is correct i should be able to fit ZR1 corvette 335/25ZR20 in the rear and 245/30ZR20 up front with a 7" lip and 5" backspacing out back. cant waite to install my 14 point roll cage THAT'S BEEN TAKING UP ROOM IN MY GARAGE FOR THE PAST YEAR!!!! errrr

 

here is a picture i drew and posted on another thread of what the end project is going to look like https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/atta...aper-01555.jpg

 

subscribing... looks like a sweet project!

 

any updates?

 

very cool, i look forward to more

 

got anything else done? i wanna see this thing

 

ok so its been a long time and i have lots of pictures. just been too busy lately working on the z. here it is back from sand blasting and then shot with epoxy primer that same day.

 

here is a picture of it from underneath with my new subframe connectors and how can i forget i actually have a floor in it now lol.

 

after a while i became bored and wondered what it would look like at bagged out stance. i also had to put the rear axle and tires on so moch in the rear tubs so they would be square

 

after welding in the tubs i pretty much eyeballed the line of where i thought the quarters would but up to. who knew i was dead on. also since my whole quater was cut off i had to make a new bottom piece located at the rear rockers behind the tubs. this place is a big rust spot on most 3rd gens

 

i also fabbed up the bottoms for the passenger side rear rockers and mocked up my quarters. after standing back it looks like a car again. the coolest thing about putting these quarters on is that i panel bonded the quarters up front by the door jam and welded the rest. Also to keep the quarters from flapping in the wind i cut one inch sections out of angle iron and welded them around the circumfrance of the tub and added vibration foam to the tabs. it works perfectly and no flex in the quarters.

 

now for the fun stuff. it took me 3 days to measure and cut and weld in this 16 point roll cage. THIS WAS A B****. never again!!!! lol and the funny thing is i never once put my doors or brake booster in and when i finally did fit them up to see how close they were to the cage... you could not get a tighter fit with spandex i have about a quarter of an inch between my door bar and the inside frame of my door. good thing im going with custom fibergalss interior. if it comes to anything ill just mold the door panel around the cage for a clean look

 

and here we are on the road. finally graduated college and taking the car home to let it sit for a while and let me rest up. had to dodge so many rain clouds that day it not even funny

 

Killer job so far!!

However... Not to **** on any parades, but I know my longtube headers come REALLY close to the frame rail and would not fit around your engine bay cage legs. How do you plan on getting around that? Just curious...

 

good question. actually i measured out the cage to fit right above the valve covers by bringing my dash bar up 6 1/2 inches from the designed area to elevate the engine bay legs. so now my dash bar will become my mounting point for my steering column so its enough room to slid in and out of the car and as for the dash ill mold the fiberglass dash over and around the dash bar

 

I figured you would bring the engine up into the bay from underneath the car.

 

thats what i planned on doing. that way i dont take a chance of scratching any of my paint when i put it in.

 

Just corious were did you go to school? Never seen a tech school that actually let you work on your own project, very cool!

 

Seriously! I nearly got sent home for changing my own oil, and my tools were at the school!

 

I heard that at wyotech if after a couple months a perfect attendence they will eventually allow you to bring your own car to work on instead of the ones they provide you with.

 

lol actually i went to school at lincoln tech in indy. i graduated with 100% attendence and 4.0 GPA so thats why they let me work on my own project of this multitude. they let other students bring their own vehicles in for minor repairs as long as they were not slakers, but nothing like what i was doing. Plus i helped them build a chevelle for some tv show on my own time so they owed me lol. It was a great school but im glad i graduated

 

Last update was last year...anything new?

 

Not yet. I graduated and ran out of room in my garage with tools and what not. Soon to move the car to my new job. I have changed my mind on a few things like switching to IRS and currently developing a carbons fiber body kit including ss style hood, gt style fenders, front and rear bumper, aero style ground effects and here is the kicker!... im making cf complete doors WITH POWER WINDOWS. Found out how to do a thing such call vip (vacuum infusion process) also I can't shave my tail light because it would give me no way to mount my rear bumper so im just going to mold up some tail light housings that fit in the original spot but are painted body color but with the l.e.d. strips in them.

 

That vacuum infused layup is quite interesting.
Would you mind giving a summary of the equipment (vacuum pump, overflow, vacuum lines etc) you intend to use?

I'm trying to figure out if it would be interesting for a few one-offs.
Shipping ready-made parts to europe is quite expensive. I can buy a lot of equipment for the shipping cost alone which for me DIY is always a valid alternative.

Another question, would this process allow the hood to be bonded to the underhood structure of a stock hood after removing the sheet metal?

 

Well their are 6 main parts to vip: resin bucket, feed line in, mold, feedline out, resin trap(pressure pot) and vacuum pump. The maine part here is the mold. To set up the mold in steps here is what you do first: use a relese agent such as wax, and then spray on a layer of gel coat(this acts as a sandable clear coat for the finished project) and let it get tacky. Next lay a layer of your reinforcement down(weather it be cf, kevlar, fiberglass), followed by a layer of flow media. (Flow media needs to be sandwiched between each layer of reinforcement, this allows resin to travel through the mold fast and evenly). After your last layer of reinforcement you put down what is called "peel ply"( this meterial does not bond with resin) now you need to contruct how your resin feed line in will be anchored. You star by taking a piece of filter jacket( its like flow media but in a sock) about 2" long and cut a hole so your tube fits through it followed by a "T" fitting. Then place a 4" long piece of filter jacket under that and place it all in the middle of your mold ONTOP of your peel ply. Around the edge of the mold place butal tape so the bag can seal. On the inside of the vital tape place a spiral tube, about an 1" in diameter wraped in peel ply, around the border of your mold. Put a "T" fitting sobthe ends of the hose connect each other to the feed line out. Place your vacuum bag over top with holes cut for your feed lines and your good to go

 

Here is a detailed site that tells you about it. This is also where I get ALL my meterials from. I suggest looking through it and reading up on deferent resin methods and things like that. htw.fibreglast.com/product/LC_021 As for the hood question im planing on having a square brace all the way around the underside of the hood for a bracket system to allow my hood to flip forward. If that wasn't the case im sure that cf would be ridged enough without a frame underneath. If you wanted the frame you could just panel bond glue it or make your own cf hood frame replicating stock.

 

Thanks for the very detailed reply.

From what I see and read this appears to be a valid method, even for one-offs.

I also found these links:
www.fram.nl
www.polyworx.com
www.brandscomposiet.nl

in a boating forum. The guy from the fram.nl page is not too far from where I live, so I might go and have a look there as well.

The reason why I would want the stock hood framing is (definately not weight savings) trying to work around any possible fitment issues afterwards. I guess I'm lazy in that regard.

Glueing is my least preferred method. Maybe just pulling a single layer of CF or aramide around the frame using some epoxy and normal layup will work. Most likely will.

 

Well guys i know its been quite a while but i have not forgotten. I have not been too busy on the build lately, i will say however i did move to a new house with a garage that is twice as big and has a nice concrete floor able for me to work in. Im currenly stuck without a welder but should have one in 2 months. I did make a body dolly out of lumber and heavy duty casters so i can wheel it around the garage or driveway and work under it. I have re-primed the floor since it was scratched up and also bought a c4 corvette irs which is sitting on the shelf waiting to be moched into place.

 

I hope to have a rolling chassis by next july but the suspension is still on the drawing board. I know what i want just have to figure out how to make it work. Luckaly i have a cnc and tube bender right down the road from the body shop that i work at. Here is a little teaser on what i have planned... http://speeddirect.com/index.aspx?nodeID=132
Also i changed my plans from my 383 to an ls3 which means my roll cage frame rails are too close to each other so i have to cut them out and move them. I know i previously said the cage rails were too close to the booster but i redesigned thar as well. Im going with a dual break master cylinder pedal assembly from wilwood that is far better than the stock booster. Better yet it mounts inside the firewall for a clean engine bay. Im running all my break lines inside the car as a well with a hydrolic handbrake so the underside stays with a clean look.

 

can't wait to see more pics!

 

First thing first. Since im not putting my 383 in my z im going to do a swap with it on my rs this winter. Then after that back on the monster full time!

 

found this thread from a link to another thread in that thread on neils car, anyways, updates? love that your going heavy on the carbon fiber

 

No the project has been on stan still for the past year and a half. Been trying to buy a 220 welder so i can re weld the cage but besides that im refurbishing my 89 rs for this year show season. After that its ***** deep back into the z28 100%. Look for updates somewhere around june. First thing on my list is moch up the lambo doors and the corvette irs.

 

Well i know things havent changed in 2 years but here is why...something to keep you guys occupied till i get back on my stage 3 build.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/body...stage-2-a.html