im wantin to know should i keed torque arm or buy a ladder bar kit. i dont want a 4-link i know it is a better link setup but im not building a 700 or 800 hp car. tire im gonna run is a 29.5/10.5w/15. stock whith rear end what offset wheel would i need to clear outter fender. inner is cut out right past the spring bucket. with a tube. no matter what i do i gotta run coil over some rear frame mods for support. the tubes r not in yet. it was setup with a 29/10/15 tire with a 5in offset wheel had to trim a lil. got a cage subframe con. and 90/10 drag struts but it fit. 456 gears any feedback would help. ran 11.86 with what i had..

 

 

not done cutting yet

 

I sure do like the adjustability of a 4 link...but, it also makes it possible to dial you chassis right out of the race!!!!

I've built a half dozen or so back halfed cars with ladder bars and coilovers, couple of them still running Super Gas, and my "brand X" 9 flat car, so they do hook up!!!!

Big thing on a ladder bar car is to run a quality, adjustable coilover.. I switched mine over the the new AFCO double adjustable's (spendy but great), and took a few more hundredths off the 60' time as compared to the Koni's that were on there. However, in defense of the Koni's they did have a couple hundred passes on them but the new AFCO's are just super quality shocks IMO!!!!

 

Problem with the 4-link is that there can be hundreds of different settings but only a small handful of settings will actually work. I played with different settings for 2 years. I haven't changed my settings now since last summer.

With ladder bars, you have very limited settings. The IC stays the same distance from the diff and you can only raise or lower the IC the number of holes in the chassis mount. With a 4-link, you can position the IC below the ground level if required. You can also position it inside the car.

 

yea thats true i just didnt want to cut the hole rear out i can do it but its alot of work and more money...but end the end i now its worth it...do ya know of any off sets for wheels with stock rear end i think i may go with a 10inch wide and 6.5 offset i dont have the money right now for axles and gettin it narrowed i got a 9 inch but its stock i got 600 in a 10 bolt and it holds up to the power... ill probly tube it for a big tire tho so i wont have to redo the sheetmetal these cars hook good from the factory i just want to run a bigger tire..

 

You can do a 10 inch wide wheel without tubbing.

 

what he said, for that matter, the 19-10.5 tire you are looking at will probably fit the stock wheel wells with some simple clearanceing and hammering. You kinda went a bit overkill here.

 

Did that already... ten inch tire w/ ten inch wheel w/ five inch bs. Its damn close to tha link bar. A 10.5w mt tire is wider than a 10 in tire. W series tires are alot wider. Look it up on mt's website. Even with custom made link bars w/ heim joints in factory location it would hit. So here i am w/ options... i could go ahead and 4 link it and run whatever tire i wanted with certain rearend, or buy all the tubing and heim joints for torque arm, panhard bar, and link bars which is pretty high. I want to keep the rearend i got if i can buy wheels that will tuck. I dont want to redo any sheetmetal work. So what do yall think? Does anybody know what wheels i need to tuck 29.5/10.5w/15 with a factory rearend? If i cant then i will just have to wait and get a 9inch narrowed.

 

I squeezed a 29 x 10.5 ET Drag tire between the fenders with only some minor inner fender modifications. The tall tire cause more clearance issues than the width did.