Here is my BeCool radiator installed finally. I need to cool my future 700 HP motor so I figured I needed more cooling. The radiator is a circle track BeCool unit with a 16-AN outlet, one of the main reasons I bought it. I also bought it due to being driver side inlet/outlet, there is a baffle in the middle forcing the coolant to pass thru the radiator twice. The metal work was all done by me. Not done, but also not the prettiest work. But it does work. This is just pics of it finally all welded in place, not final welding/grinding done yet. That will be next weekend. The rad is 19x31 but really is more like 30" wide. It is a 3 core with billet cap bung. To put in perspective why I did this, the rad that BeCool sells that is a dirrect fitment for our car is almost $800. This one was $250. Plus my lower fan mounts were cracked, AND I thought it would be fun.

So here it is:

 

Function>form, nothing wrong with that

Hows the hood fitment?

 

Look like a pretty good job to me! Why are you going mondo radiator and sticking w/ stock fans? I'd be upgrading to a taurus fan or some aftermarket ones.

 

Money cash... Simple as that.

After tossing a gew grand into the motor to make it handle the F1 procharger, I am out of $$$ for now. The stock fans blow pretty well, at least I think so. When they are both on, they pull a ton of air.

This weekend I am going to go sruce it up a bit so I can get the work done before the new motor gets dropped in. Should look a world better.

 

I got a taurus fan for 50 bucks of Ebay, it moves over 4k CFM on the high setting. If you are making the power your wanting to, the stock fans are not going to cut it.

 

I think they will. People over and over again assume these fans are junk when in fact 90% of the problem is some place else. I may be wrong, but I guess we will see.

I also am not going to be making 700HP all day long. The car is 100% street driven, so 98% of the time it will be crusin around town and to shows. This motor will never see 6K unless it is on the dyno for tunning. That is when all the heat is really made. At idle the motor won't make that much more heat than stock. With the added efficiency of the bigger rad I think I will be all set.

Thanks for your advice about the taurus fan. If I went non-stock I would probably do that or go with some flexalites or something.

Just as a side note, the amount of things people say you "can't do" on here when in turn you can is astounding. Be carefull when you say you can't do something. I have done everything from lambo doors, 5 years ago before the kits were easy to use, tucking 315s with no form of minitub, ran 5 points that can retract for use of the back seat, installed an off the shelf 3 core Al. rad with minor "bracket" work...

To who asked about hood clearance, with a 3" Cervini, there is about 1.5" when shut from the rad cap to the hood.

 

I will agree that generally the problem is not the fans when people have over heating issues. I think the main draw back to the factory setup is not having a shroud. You are going to be making 3x the HP than the stock dual fans were intended to keep cool. I think you thinking is a little backwards. Low speed and Idling is the hardest time for the cooling system to keep the engine cool. The fans have to do all the work because you don't have air moving across the radiator from the vehicle being in motion to move air across the radiator and put cooler air in the engine compartment. Me personally, if I am spending all that money to build a badass motor and you went with a mondo radiator. Spend a few more bucks to make sure your moving enough air to prevent overheating and trashing it. Stock 20 y/o fans that probably move 2000cfm between the two when they were new VS a provent aftermarket option. I know which way I would go.

 

the problem with the taurus/lincoln... fans is to find a relay that will work without overheating/melting, and typically the ford one is $$$.

 

yea, but the variable controller that gradually turns the fan on is supposed to work. I have been running the low speed on a 40 amp relay, 30 amp fuse, w/12 ga wiring without any problems. I know the low speed pulls alot less than the high speed. I have read the initial draw of the high speed is over 100a spike then settles around 45a.

 

This is a problem I experienced. My stock fans didnt pull enough air thru the rad, but that may have been because they were not exactly flush with the rad.
As long as your fans are tight against the radiator, they should draw air through the rad. Mine didnt draw alot of air so I had overheating issues.

I swapped to LS1 fans with factory shroud. Fit up fairly tight against the rad and it solved my heating issues.

 

I have my fans less than 0.250" from my rad. They litterally ALMOST touch it. These will def pull air thru. As for thinking backwards, I asure you I am not.

You think that a 383 runs hotter than a 350 at idle, not by much. Crusing around town the motor will be fine. Hot lapping at the track, no.

With a more effiecient rad, I will be fine. If I am not, trust me I will admit to being wrong. From my mechanical engineering opinion everything looks like it will be just fine to me. MAYBE I will need to fab a shroud, but after that I don't see me needing to do anymore.

But at this point we are just bouncing the ideas back and fourth. I will tell you how she runs in the spring.

 

I have kept an eye on your build and I think it's pretty awesome! I look forward to hearing about it running!

I also doubt your car will have to contend with half of the heat mine do here in AZ, so that will also be in your favor.

 

That is true. And thanks for checking out the build! Allways cool to hear people keeping up with the build. Here is MA it is pretty cool in the spring/Fall. Summer it can get up to 100 but that is rare. It is does get around 90 a lot though. I know that is nothing compared to AZ. If these fans don't work I will try a shroud out of cardboard to see if that helps, if it does, I will use Al sheets or something. But anyways, that is far off. I just learned I won't be seeing by new motor till Jan now! ................

So that sux, but it is worth it. The builder is being SUPER carefull. Just what I wanted when trying to stuff boost thru a SBC.

I finished welded and POR'ed the whole setup. I will post pics in a couple of weeks when I start to wrap the interior up. Can't wait to see all the stuff back in there.

 

with that radiator, you're not going to see any problems. my griffin and stock dual fans barely get it to operating temp in the summer.

 

Thats what I figured was going to happen. Motor will be done real soon, but won't be up and running till spring

 

Where did you get that rad for that price???

 

Got it from summit. I had to call up and order the part number I wanted though. It is not listed on the website. I got the part number by calling BeCool directly. Felt good finally getting a name brand radiator in the car. The sales tech guy says it can handle 1000HP on the street with 2 1700CFM fans. Or was it 1700 CFM total? Not sure but either way, if I overheat I know who to call to get the specs of fans I need.

It is a PS inlet and outlet. There is a baffle inside that makes the fluid pass thru the rad twice and not just go in and out, still hot.

Anyways, hope that clears it up. I think this is the best way to stuff a BeCool racing rad into a Camaro. All it takes is a little cutting and some simple bracket welding with metal bought from home depot. I will post pics of the finished install next week.

 

Do you have the part number for me? I need a new rad and I don't want the crappy "direct fit" that doesn't fit anymore. I have AN -16 and 20 thermostat housings, hoses and remote thermostats to hook something like that up. Dual pass is nice.

 

No problem. Part number is: BCI-35030

You can look up the specs on summitracing.com now I think. Took me a while to get this piece but it was worth the wait. Fits great with minimal effort and it a high quality part. Can't wait to see the AN - 16 hose coming off of it. The PS inlet helps with the Procharger as well. Get the hose out of the way.

 

I think a big issue with cooling is letting heat OUT of the engine compartment. The stock hood just does not let heat out very well. I was easily hitting 210 (and i know that is just standard operating temp) but getting my custom hood?

With my stock, 23 yr old radiator, stock fans (i've had to replace 1 fan motor 3 years ago), and stock thermostat.....On 85 degree day (i just got my new hood late Fall/early Winter), my engine temp. only gets to 180, where the thermostat open & STAYS there, even setting at idle for over 30 min. I can't wait for the 105 deg. Summer days to get here, to see how the engine cools.

With the Cervini hood...Is it open in the back to let more heat out?

 

Yes, the 3" Cervini hood, my fav of course, but I am partial, has two ducts that are open with mesh facing back. You can see them here.

 

that hood will work the same as a cowl induction hood, air will be drawn in through the openings, not out.

 

Do you have any probs with water? I am thinking about a ram air 2 hood for mine.

 

Absolutly not. The hood sits SUPER tight against the cowl. Then there is an inch before the vents so it is impossible for water to get in there. This is the best hood for third gen camaros, hands down. Look, fit and finish. But I am partial. It is a great hood though. I have had mine for 4 years and it looks just as good as day one. And that is saying a lot when I used to drive this car in the snow and in 100 degree days. Fiber glass usually doesn't take that too well.

 

From what I see they dont make a Cervini hood for a trans am. Am I wrong? Where can I find out info on them?

 

Just called Cervinis and they dont offer a hood for a trans am.

 

call them again and tell them they should =)

 

Not even sure if they still make the one for Camaros

 

I guess I will be getting the Ram Air 2 with the filter system from Hawks.