Been practising on scrap metal. Started out using 1/16 rods, 6013 and 7014. So the 6013 was easier to start, however with both 1/16 rods I had severe issues with burn through, splatter, not enough coverage.

So I took the advice to switch over to 3/32 6013 (from Lowe's, the 1/16 rods were from Harbor Freight maybe that was the problem too) I can now weld a bead real well on 1/8 steel, however when I try to join square tubing which is less than 1/8 wall thickness (ie the one from Lowe's and Home Depot) I do burn through.

Tried to lower the amps, but I think I am lowering it too much, to the point where I lack good penetration, and the rod sticks like crazy.

Can it be an arc length problem ? That I'm keeping the rod too far away from the metal ? That I have to turn up the amps back to the normal (ie recommended) settins and then keep the arc length real short ?

I do also have the Eastwood stitch welder attachment, which I can try using, but I didn't think I'd need it for square tubing ?

 

a stick welder is really too much for work like that, they are made for heavy steel. You should be using a mig on that material.

you can do it, but it takes practice. Keep practicing. try starting the arc with the stick at different angles and see what works best for you to get things started.

 

Well problem is lack money no mig and I do have a stick welder, maybe I should find thicker square tubing but where ?

 

I don't know anything about stick welding, but check out www.weldingtipsandtricks.com, I've seen some stuff there.

 

Try to move the rod a little faster, it takes lots of practice. The smaller the rod the better, also make sure to keep rods as dry as possible.

 

Store your welding rods in a warm and dry location. Most welders keep their rods in an old fridge with a light bulb on all the time. No moisture gets in and the light bulb keeps it warm enough to burn off any moisture that does get in. Rods that sit around on a table or on the welder will attract humidity and go bad after a while.

 

Thanks guys,

I'll give it a try and let you know how it turns out. I know I could take several 1/8 pieces and slowly weld them together but then I'd add too much weight. So I'll try the way you guys suggested, and in worst case I'll get the thicker perforated square tubing and use that instead.

Regarding the moisture, the 1/16 rods were brand new but like I said seems the ones from Lowe's (Lincoln Electric 3/32 rods) were better quality.

 

You can actually use a second 3/32 rod as a "filler" rod also. Knock all the flux off, and use it with your other hand. I've done this many times welding thin metal with a stick welder. Takes a little practice, but just keep the filler rod just ahead of the "pool".

Joel

 

Oh yeah someone did actually mention it on a thread I read, just seemed really hard to do, like stick welding but "TIG weld feeding" at the same time.

So knock all the flux off ? Didn't know it could come off "easily" and actually the thread never mentioned remove the flux, so I most definitely appreciate the advice.

Has been a bad day today, no time to weld, cos my GF's car (2007 ML350) got the entire (rear) fuse box area soaked with water somehow, so no turn signals, wipers, power locks etc etc real bad !!!

 

Yea, the flux can be removed very easy. Just lay the rod down on a concrete block, a board etc., and tap on it with a hammer. The flux will break away.
Good luck with the elec issues.

Joel

 

What welder are you using? I can stick weld steel down to about 1/16" thick without too much trouble, so with practice 1/8" material shouldn't be a problem. 6013 will probably be the most "forgiving" rod, but 7018 runs really nicely and is a great one to learn on too.

It sounds like an excessive arc length problem to me, but P.M. me if you'd like and I can help you figure this out, and coach you along.

 

It's some cheapo China made one I bought years ago, AX250 or something like that.

 

Decided to work around the welding issue, took some thicker perforated metal, notched it, and mounted it to two existing bolt holes. Excuse the excessive cut out in the trunk, was originally going to be a fuel pump access for, but it got changed to a fuel cell mount, still have to cut out the top part.

 

This (pic no1) was the pre fit, then like I already mentioned, (pic no2) notched and flipped upside down, so it's now raised about an inch in pic no2 compared to the pre fit in pic no1.. Reason I notched it was to get as much mounting surface to weld to once I get to it. A bit of notching left though, for the mounting hardware for the cell.

 

ive had good luck using 6010's
you do not want to make the angle to steep max i would go is 10* or 15*
also pick up a wire brush too, helpfull to get the splatter off,
and a http://www.topfreebiz.com/product/13...er-AWS0301.htm good luck

 

Yeah I got a chipping hammer and a wire brush, didn't think I'd need a chipping hammer until I saw how easy the slag comes off followed up by the wire brush.