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Home brew road racer

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Old 09-10-2012, 11:27 PM   #101
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Re: Home brew road racer

a few more pics
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Old 09-10-2012, 11:37 PM   #102
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Re: Home brew road racer

I was also able to work on the driver's side floor. I am raising the floor so that it is 5" from the bottom of the sfc. This will allow me to tuck a standard 4x11 muffler under the seat and not have the exhaust hang any lower than the bottom of the sfc. It really didn't raise the seat any higher than stock in fact I will be raising it an inch higher than the pics show.
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Old 09-20-2012, 10:32 PM   #103
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Re: Home brew road racer

I raised the seat up on a 1" wood block and finalized the seating position. I decided to move the seat another inch toward the center of the car to give more room between my head/helmet and the halo bar. The bracing on the floor is 1x1x.095 tubing and the seat bracket is 1/8 stainless plate. The bracing is temporarily bolted to the door opening pinch weld and the trans tunnel. Seat bracket is adjustable 1" fore and aft to accommodate different drivers and could also accommodate different seat angle/tilt.
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Old 09-20-2012, 10:39 PM   #104
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Re: Home brew road racer

a couple more pics of bracket and the double sheer lap belt mount
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Old 09-24-2012, 09:48 PM   #105
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Re: Home brew road racer

For some reason I didn't feel good about the seat mount and realized that the only thing supporting the majority of the weight was two small 1" square areas where the front lateral brace welded to the door pinch weld and the trans tunnel. The fore and aft braces did little to add support and strength. I decided to change the design and move the fore / aft braces outward and attach them to the pinch weld and the trans tunnel. Now the fore/aft braces support the lateral braces and the trans tunnel. A much stronger mount.
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Old 09-24-2012, 10:04 PM   #106
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Re: Home brew road racer

The grey sheet metal I used for the raised floor pan is very thin, 24ga and it bothers me that that is all that is keeping debris from the road/track from coming into the interior. I have an old food prep table from a closed restaurant that that I had hoped to make into a work bench but it was too big and not strong enough for my needs. It is .060 stainless and measured out almost perfect for the length I needed. Here is what it looks like on the passenger side. I'll replace the driver side with the same.
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Old 10-12-2012, 11:11 PM   #107
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Re: Home brew road racer

I bought a roll cage kit last week from Summit. It was the Comp engineering 10pt #3226K. The main hoop and the halo look like they will tuck tight against the body and roof. The A-pillar bars follow the contour of the pillars ok but they are way to short for the mods I've done. I'll maybe get some time to work on it this weekend (praying for rain) and I'll post some pics.
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Old 10-23-2012, 09:58 PM   #108
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Re: Home brew road racer

Got in some major fab time this past weekend. Roll cage is coming along nicely. The rear crossmember that I installed to hang the 3 link from is roughly an inch higher than the stock floor. This raises the main hoop an inch higher into the roof. This was a plus for me because I wanted the top of the main hoop and the halo bar to be as high in the car as possible for added head clearance and visibility. To get the bars to fit in that position I had to cut out all of the inner roof structure along the door openings and part of the support structure at the top of the windshield.
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Old 10-23-2012, 10:11 PM   #109
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Re: Home brew road racer

more pics
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Old 10-23-2012, 10:16 PM   #110
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Re: Home brew road racer

you know a photobucket account can provide you with links that allow you to embed images right into your post so you don't have to use links, its a little extra work but its alot easier in the end
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Old 10-23-2012, 10:39 PM   #111
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Re: Home brew road racer

with the main hoop and halo bar positioned in the car I remounted the driver seat and checked for head clearance with and without my helmet on. The halo bar as it comes in the kit is designed to fit into the in the car without modifying the roof structure. This causes the width of the halo bar to be some what narrow and although I had plenty of clearance without the helmet on there was less than 1 1/2" between the left side of my helmet and the halo bar. Any attempt to look to the left or lean slightly to the left resulted in contacting the bar.

Because I had cut away the support above the doors I had an additional 1 1/2" to move the halo bar outward on each side. I did this by cutting the halo in half at the center above the windshield, slipped a piece of 6 inch long, 1 1/4dia, 1/8 wall tubing inside the halo halves and then slipped a 3" piece of roll bar tubing over the 1 1/4 tube and put it back together. All edges were beveled back and I left a 1/16 gap between the 3" spacer and the two halves of the halo. I then tacked it back together and checked head clearance again. Problem solved.

Once I was satisfied with the fit I tacked the main hoop, rear down struts and the halo bar together and then added some braces to keep the parts from moving. Because the door opening is so large on these cars I was able to tilt the whole assembly forward and slide it out of the car sideways and set it up on the garage floor where I could weld it all together in the open and not under the roof of the car.
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Old 10-23-2012, 10:48 PM   #112
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Re: Home brew road racer

Quote:
Originally Posted by kmcn47 View Post
you know a photobucket account can provide you with links that allow you to embed images right into your post so you don't have to use links, its a little extra work but its alot easier in the end
It would make it easier to follow along as well. A lot of the members won't take the time to open the links as they would rather just scroll through the pictures.

I am not a big web user so really not sure how to set one up or if I would use it but it would have made this thread easier to follow.
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Old 10-23-2012, 10:52 PM   #113
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Re: Home brew road racer

you need a "kid" in the house for stuff like that! i speak from experience! I'm following your build! should be nice when it's done!
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Old 10-23-2012, 10:57 PM   #114
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Re: Home brew road racer

i'm following it too, and if you giet me your email i could make a photobucket for you, pm me here and i can do it for you
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Old 10-27-2012, 07:08 PM   #115
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Re: Home brew road racer

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i'm following it too, and if you giet me your email i could make a photobucket for you, pm me here and i can do it for you
sent pm
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Old 10-27-2012, 07:30 PM   #116
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Re: Home brew road racer

Widening the halo bar by 3" placed the ends against the main hoop almost past the main hoop, so that only the bottom of the tube came in contact with the main hoop. I welded this together and added a 3/4 dia brace between the halo and main hoop before I pulled the whole assembly out of the car. Once out of the car I made some "ears" out of 1/4 plate that would fill in the space between the top of the halo and the main hoop.

I have seen this method used on numerous race cars both drag and circle track. The only thing I did differently was to completely cap the ears with 1/8 steel. This ties the entire ear to the main hoop making it extremely strong .
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Old 10-27-2012, 08:34 PM   #117
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Re: Home brew road racer

pm replied to account setup
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Old 11-09-2012, 11:40 PM   #118
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Re: Home brew road racer

Besides head clearance my main concern with making this cage was to get the A pillar bars tight against the A pillars so as not to obstruct my view. The bars that came with the Comp engineering kit followed the contour of the A pillar but to install it as made it mounted to the sfc about midway between the seat and the base of the A pillar. This made it difficult to get in and out of the car. I guess I'm used to stock cars where we climb through the windows. any way I had the bars copied but had the top of the bar extended 6 inches. This moved the bar to within 3 inches of the A pillar base and is tucked tight to the windshield pillar for maximum visibility.
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Old 11-09-2012, 11:47 PM   #119
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Re: Home brew road racer

[IMG][IMG][/IMG][/IMG]a few more pics
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Old 11-10-2012, 12:07 AM   #120
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Re: Home brew road racer

nice to see the photobucket is helping, also cage looks good
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Old 11-11-2012, 09:08 AM   #121
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Re: Home brew road racer

Cool Thing

If you don't want to click each individual link - try SB Unlinker

https://chrome.google.com/webstore/d...boeadpjpklbpji

It automatically opens all pictures in a thread so you don't have to click through the entire thing.
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Old 11-12-2012, 07:03 PM   #122
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Re: Home brew road racer

Subbed great build so far, only thing I recommend is the use of something to seal the inner frame rails while you had em open. It is easy to get some of the rust converter eastwood sells with the extension hose and get it in through a small hole later. Also have you thought about weld through primer for underneath? Not sure if you've tried it before and didn't like it but I personally always use it where pieces overlap pretty much anything i weld anymore really just within an inch or 2 to each side of where I'm going to weld if it's something like a butt weld, shouldn't really be a problem with that squat press tubing but it does help with the cleanup immensely when it comes to spatter. This is one of the biggest reasons I like it so much, I arc weld mainly, unless it's sheet metal or has to be tig'd, and depending on the electrode and what you're welding spatter can become a complete PITA to clean.

This is just me personally, after investing so much work I always try to make sure there is very little chance for rust to be hiding somewhere waiting to spread. Speaking of, that was a very clean looking car rust wise from what I can tell so there probably isn't a ton for you to be concerned over down the road but for the cost I think it's worth it for the peace of mind knowing you did all you could to prevent it.

Anyways great build once again, I'm definitely going to have to steal a few things from you for my 88 Iroc, especially the ZR2 rearend idea, that alone is going to save so much in costs on a good rearend for me. Can't wait to see more progress!
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Old 11-24-2012, 10:53 PM   #123
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Re: Home brew road racer

I want to thank everyone for following along and giving me tips and advice. I'll try and get the hang of the photo bucket and make the rest of the build easier to follow.

Also Jsmokey, the SFC's and the cage are out of the car for complete strip, prime, and paint before going back in and being welded. The inside of the rockers will get the same. Once everything is back in place I'll only have to remove paint in the areas being welded and then I can brush paint over those areas when done. There will still be a few blind welds where the weldable primer could come in handy so I'll give that a try.

There is about a 3/8 wide gap between the top edge of the sfc and the rocker that I plan on bridging with 1/8 steel strap. This will provide a second connection area between the sfc and rocker panel. Most sfc's are only welded to the bottom of the rocker pinch weld but since I have access to the top of the sfc I can weld there as well.

To further keep water and debris out of the various cracks and crevices I'll be using liberal amounts of brushable seam sealer. The car is being built to drive in any weather but snow, both on the track and on the street. Track days run rain or shine and you don't want to miss a chance to play because your not equipped to run in the rain or it gets a little chilly. Full a/c, heat and defrost are in the design as well as functioning wipers, but using different components and mounting them in a more advantageous way.

For right now there is a lot of prep and paint work ahead. Once the cage is welded in I plan on completing all the sheet metal work from the firewall back. This will seem very tedious with all the cutting and fitting for the sheet metal and the hundreds of inches of weld that will be needed to put it all back together again.
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Old 11-24-2012, 11:15 PM   #124
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Re: Home brew road racer

are you welding the sub frame connectors to the bottom of the cage? my cage was bolt in, but i added metal plates to the sfc's to allow me to bolt it all together- really stiffened up the car.
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Old 11-24-2012, 11:59 PM   #125
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Re: Home brew road racer

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are you welding the sub frame connectors to the bottom of the cage? my cage was bolt in, but i added metal plates to the sfc's to allow me to bolt it all together- really stiffened up the car.
Yes the cage is being welded directly to the sfc's, you can see the A pillar bar setting on the sight side sfc in post 119. Besides welding the cage to the sfc's it will also be welded to the factory A pillars, the support structure just behind the windshield, and the main hoop will be welded to the B pillars. Welding the cage to the body in as many places as possible greatly increase the strength of both units.

the A pillar bars are just set in place in these pics but it shows how they will be mounted.
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Old 11-25-2012, 10:30 AM   #126
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Re: Home brew road racer

if it weren't for the sfc's i wouldn't have anywhere to jack up my car. i hate trying to jack it up with the jacks that just use the thin little unibody edge.
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Old 11-26-2012, 09:53 PM   #127
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Re: Home brew road racer

Even though the interior will be quite sparse compared to factory I don't want it to be ugly. With the cage set high into the roof I thought it might look better with a headliner set inside the halo bar. A few quick fasteners and some 1/8 thick hard board covered with some fabric should help the aesthetics a little bit.
The exposed lower half of the halo will be covered with half round SFI rated roll bar padding.
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Old 11-26-2012, 10:02 PM   #128
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Re: Home brew road racer

the head liner makes a huge difference on a HOT sunny day....the inside of the roof skin gets hot like a toaster....that's why i left mine in when i did my cage.
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Old 11-26-2012, 10:14 PM   #129
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Re: Home brew road racer

Over the long weekend I had time to add a few extra braces to the main hoop and rear down struts. I used saddle type gussets as i feel they are much stronger and look better than the flat plate style gussets. Once the welding was done I spent a couple hours removing weld spatter and sanding down the cage and sfc's in preparation for painting. The paint I chose was a gray epoxy primer from Summit. It is a high solids, heavy fill primer that uses a catalyst instead of a reducer and dries rock hard. Because there is so little surface area to work with I decided to brush on the primer rather than spray it.

This will be the paint I'll use for the whole interior and most everything else except the exterior body panels.
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Old 11-26-2012, 10:28 PM   #130
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Re: Home brew road racer

Thats one of the things that was determined to remedy on this car. The sfc's I made are 72 inches long and extend below the pinch weld about a 1/4 inch. You can put a floor jack anywhere along the sfc and not worry about bending or damaging anything. I will probably make a jacking point at the front and rear of the car as well.
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Old 12-15-2012, 10:43 AM   #131
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Re: Home brew road racer

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the head liner makes a huge difference on a HOT sunny day....the inside of the roof skin gets hot like a toaster....that's why i left mine in when i did my cage.
Roger that! I will be using a dyna-mat type insulative matting over most of the flooring, firewall and roof. I plan on spending some major seat time in this car at the track and on the street and I want to be as comfortable as i I can be. I think I mentioned earlier that I will be installing a/c and heat and the insulation will make those more efficient.

I haven't been able to get out to the garage these past two weeks but hopefully I will get some time this sunday. Getting the cage and sfc's welded in will be a major milestone as so many other items are on hold till it gets in place.
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Old 12-31-2012, 06:17 PM   #132
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Re: Home brew road racer

What a great build! I love the whole budget build theme, everything looks like it's turning out great. Nice score on the wieght lifting frame work.

I would love some more info on your homemade lift. It seems like a great idea, and would be a perfect fit for my cramped garage space (very low ceiling). What materials did you use? measurements? etc? If you don't want to clutter up your thread, PM me please (If you don't mind giving up your secerets). Thanks!
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Old 12-31-2012, 09:08 PM   #133
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Re: Home brew road racer

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What a great build! I love the whole budget build theme, everything looks like it's turning out great. Nice score on the wieght lifting frame work.

I would love some more info on your homemade lift. It seems like a great idea, and would be a perfect fit for my cramped garage space (very low ceiling). What materials did you use? measurements? etc? If you don't want to clutter up your thread, PM me please (If you don't mind giving up your secerets). Thanks!
I'll make a separate thread on the ramps sometime in the future. Suffice to say it took over a year from conception to finished product and about $700.00 in materials (all new steel). Once I had a design and full size prototype that worked the biggest problem was to be able to make exact duplicates for the ramp stand pieces and main rails for the ramps. Jigs had to be made for cutting each piece, each angle. More jigs for drilling the holes. More jigs to position the pieces for welding etc. It was very time consuming but I was very pleased with the end result.
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Old 12-31-2012, 09:35 PM   #134
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Re: Home brew road racer

I was able to spend a few hours during the Xmas break in the garage and got the main cage welded into the car. It is tucked high into the roof and to the "A" pillar bars for max head room and visibility. I am pleased how it turned out, surprised really, that the Comp Engineering kit could fit this snug with just a little massaging.

[IMG][/IMG]

I mentioned before that I bolted in the sfc's so that I could lower them to gain access to the top of the "A" pillar tubes for welding. I tacked them in palce and welded a 1x2 cross brace to hold them in line. With the sfc's unbolted all it took was a couple of good shoves on the cross brace to pushe the whole cage forward and down giving me plenty of room to weld the A pillar bars top and bottom.

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

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Old 12-31-2012, 10:18 PM   #135
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Re: Home brew road racer

Santa was good to me this year and I was able to get tires for the car. The size 275/40r17 was never a question but I had not decided on what brand and type to get. This car will initially see some serious street time and then autocross and finally track days as I get the suspension sorted out and deem it safe and track worthy. For these reasons I wanted a good responsive tire but not one that was so soft that I wouldn't get 3k out of a set. I looked at tires with a tread wear rating of 300, a traction rating of AA and a temp rating of A. They also had to be affordable (remember the budget thing).

I looked at Nitto NT555R, Riken Raptors, and a Yokahoma AS100. I had pretty much settled on the Nittos until Mickey Thompson released their new Ultra High Performance (UHP) street tire they call the Street Comp. It is priced between the low end Raptors and the Nittos and with Mickey Thompson's experience in drag radials and performance street tires I figure they'd put out a pretty good product. I finally installed my budget SSBC brake kit and had the tires and wheels mounted. For the first time since October 2010 the Z has a complete rear axle assembly with brakes, suspension, and tires.

[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]

I have 3 inches of tire to frame clearance with this tire and the 17x9 wheels with 6 in back space. Plenty of room if I want to go to a 315/35/17 tire on a 17x11 wheel with 8 inch back spacing.
[IMG][/IMG]
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Old 01-01-2013, 09:13 AM   #136
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Re: Home brew road racer

Looking good with all that progress.

You'll have to post up your impressions of the MT's as corner-carving tires when you get a chance. MT has plenty of straightline experience, so I'm curious how well they pulled this off. (Years ago, Nitto managed pretty well with the NT555RII R-comp road course tire evolution from the NT555R drag radial, so it's certainly "do-able". Any reason for not considering Nitto's NT05 (not the NT05DR)?


Happy New Year.


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Old 01-01-2013, 11:13 PM   #137
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Re: Home brew road racer

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Looking good with all that progress.

You'll have to post up your impressions of the MT's as corner-carving tires when you get a chance. MT has plenty of straightline experience, so I'm curious how well they pulled this off. (Years ago, Nitto managed pretty well with the NT555RII R-comp road course tire evolution from the NT555R drag radial, so it's certainly "do-able". Any reason for not considering Nitto's NT05 (not the NT05DR)?


Happy New Year.


Norm

Happy New year to you also. Glad your still following along. I looked at the new NT05 tires but they seemed more like a quasi racing tire than a street tire. If I remember correctly they had a tread wear of 200 and only 5/32 tread depth and not many lines of tread at that. The NT555R were 300 and 10/32 as are the Mickey's and both have a AA wet traction rating. Since the car will see significant street time those numbers are important.

You'll be happy to know that I will be installing those braces you were trying to describe to me a while back. I was scrolling through a few hundred google images under the search "nascar iroc camaro" and came across a picture of the chassis without the sheet metal that showed the bracing from the top of the rear frame tied into the center of the main hoop cross bar bracing.

The only question I have is the front mounting point. To get the most benefit from the bracing I think it should mount just above the 3rd link mount. That would position the braces at nearly horizontal between the rear frame and the center vertical brace on the main hoop.

Like this
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Old 01-02-2013, 06:36 AM   #138
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Re: Home brew road racer

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Originally Posted by 83RDRACR View Post
The only question I have is the front mounting point. To get the most benefit from the bracing I think it should mount just above the 3rd link mount. That would position the braces at nearly horizontal between the rear frame and the center vertical brace on the main hoop.

Like this
Agreed. You want most of the 3rd link force to be carried as tension in the braces as opposed to bending in the loop and harness bar.


The NT05 seems to lie somewhere in between max or extreme performance "true street" tires and the better autocross "Street Touring" tires (that are allowed to carry an advertised treadwear rating as low as 140 last time I checked). Feedback that I have gotten in the last couple of days from a guy who ran the NT05's apparently on the street and out on the big tracks includes them being good enough on wet roads but poorish if you hit standing water, so it probably isn't an entirely street friendly choice for all regions.

As far as most other 200-ish TW tires go, I've never shied away from 200 -240 rated tires in full street duty for at least three seasons out of four. With alignment and inflation tuned to suit my driving rather than being "by the book" and "per the door sticker", I can count on getting at least 10,000 (more typically 12,000) miles per 100 TW.


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Old 01-13-2013, 09:43 PM   #139
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Re: Home brew road racer

I got busy on the 3rd link front mount. Because the heim joint extended past the forward edge of the mounting brackets I had to get a little creative. I made the brace from 2x2 square tubing and notched it to fit between the main hoop cross bar and the top of the rear drive shaft loop. I then cut the rear facing side up through the center for about 8 inches and another cut across at the top so that the cuts formed a "T". I then recessed the two sides using a 3/4 solid steel bar and a large hammer.
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I tacked the the brace in place and tacked the mounting brackets on and checked the clearance. i had to bend it in a lot more than I thought i would have to but in the end it came out well.
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I made the bracing that Norm's been suggesting out of 1x2. To my surprise it cleared the diagonal braces on the rear frame kick ups.
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Old 01-13-2013, 10:14 PM   #140
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Re: Home brew road racer

I ran out of mig wire so I started to lay out the X bracing. I thought my mufflers might be a problem and that proved correct. The staggered offset of the inlet and outlet worked great to align the exhaust but it positioned the body of the muffler to far forward along the sfc to allow for any useful x bracing.
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I searched the web and some exhaust catalogs and found a shorter muffler that had both inlet and outlet offset to the same side. Its from Magnaflow so its stainless and also only 4 inches thick. This will give me a little more clearance with my floor pan.
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I'm going to run some wood 2x4 through the table saw and cut them to 1x3. I'll use these to mock up the x bracing. After looking over Fueledsoul's sfc design I have decided to incorporate a second, inner rail that will run on each side of the tunnel. Speaking of the trans tunnel I have just about decided to do away with the little bit I have left of the original and make one from scratch. I think the only reason I left it in the first place was to give me a height reference for the floor and seat mounting.
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Old 02-11-2013, 09:54 PM   #141
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Re: Home brew road racer

I cut up a couple 2x4's into 1x3 and tried to mock up the x-bracing. No matter what I tried as far as position, angle or having the 1x3 stand up or lay flat I could not eliminate interference with the front section of the exhaust. The exhaust pipe has to angle up from running along side the transmission to align with the muffler. After more thought and a few sketches I decided to make a crossmember and notch it similar to the rear crossmember so the exhaust could pass through/under it.

It is 1 1/2 x 4 .125 wall.

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[IMG][/IMG]

I positioned the tubing so it would be level with the top of the rear crossmember. This will allow the floor pans to weld directly to the crossmembers and act as a sheer panel effectively cross bracing the boxed area. On the driver side I notched it so it would sit on the sfc. On the passenger side I butted it against the sfc and left the top of the sfc open as the fuel lines will have to run along there.
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Old 02-11-2013, 10:27 PM   #142
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Re: Home brew road racer

To figure out where to notch the tubes I positioned the exhaust pipe along the side of the trans and marked the tube with a sharpie. I then drew a larger patern that would give roughly 3/4 inch clearance around the pipe. This puts the OD of the cut out at 4 inches. I cut the notches out with a 4 inch hole saw in my drill press. This is a slow and noisey process but produces good results.

[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]

I squared off the bottoms of the opening and cut some 2 1/2 x 8 inch x 1/8 sheet steel and formed it to fit inside the notch. I was able to use the cut out section as a form and also to drive the strap into the notch.

[IMG][/IMG]

once they were in I welded the strapping and reassembled the frame work, squared and leveled it and tacked it back in place. The exhaust now clears and the open notch will allow easier install and removal of the exhaust system. Because I did not design my floor pans to work with this setup I was a little worried they wouldn't fit but they dropped right over the frame work and will only require slight trimming at the tunnel.

As for the tunnel itself I am planning on making one from the same stainless sheet stock that the froor pans are made from. Getting it to transition from the round opening at the rear to the squared off shape at the front will be a bit tricky but I have a little over 2ft length to work with. I also need to make another U-shaped drive shaft loop for the top half of the front to connect the two halves of the new crossmember. The bottom half will be a bolt in piece both front and rear to facilitate getting the driveshaft in and out.

The last piece of this frame bracing execise is to tie in the relocated front subframes into the new crossmember. That will effectively join the front sub frame to the the rear crossmember and frame rails and should add extra stiffeness to the entire frame .
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Old 02-11-2013, 10:40 PM   #143
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Re: Home brew road racer

pics of crossmember with exhaust cutouts

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pics of floor pan
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Old 02-19-2013, 09:11 PM   #144
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Re: Home brew road racer

Nice work so far man, gets me motivated to start on mine. Should get started this weekend.
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Old 02-20-2013, 03:51 PM   #145
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Re: Home brew road racer

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Old 03-04-2013, 10:31 PM   #146
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Re: Home brew road racer

Thanks for following along guys. Please feel free to comment. Any feed back good or bad is appreciated.

I was able to get the front sub frames tied in this past weekend. Although I am ok with how it turned out, this whole center structure could have been done easier, possibly lighter, and certainly more aesthetically appealing had it been pre planned like the rear suspension and front sub frame mods. I thought I could cobble up some X bracing once I had the exhaust in place but that clearly wasn't going to work.

I am sure this is stronger and stiffer than the X bracing would have been so I am hoping it also makes the car torsionally stiffer also.

Here are pics of the tie in pieces. They are made from 1 1/2 x 4 tubing.

Driver side
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Passenger side
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Old 03-04-2013, 10:45 PM   #147
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Re: Home brew road racer

I had talked about making a bolt-in driveshaft loop for the front. I decided that the front crossmember need to be as strong as possible and decided to weld a 1 1/2 square tube brace across the bottom of the two halves. For the top half I formed a piece of 1/4 x 2 steel strap to match the contour of the original tunnel. You can see in the one photo how much narrower the tunnel is without having to make room for the torque arm. It moved the tunnel away from the driver's seat about 2 1/2 inches.

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I did make the bottom half of the rear driveshaft loop removable to make getting the driveshaft in and out easier. It is also from 1/4 x 2 inch steel and held in place with 1/2" bolts.
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Old 03-04-2013, 10:55 PM   #148
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Re: Home brew road racer

With the frame structure mostly complete I cut out a driver side floor pan from my stainless food prep table.

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I realized that with the new center frame structure I could eliminate the 1x1 frame work I had made to mount the seats. The center frame structure will allow me to weld 1/4" steel plates under the floor to bolt the seats to. This will lower the seats almost an inch providing more headroom.

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Old 03-05-2013, 08:31 AM   #149
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Re: Home brew road racer

hey looks good- but i was wondering if the rear loop gives the driveshaft enough up and down room for movement? The chassis definately looks allot stronger than stock, any idea how much the completed car will weigh?
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Old 03-11-2013, 12:04 AM   #150
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Re: Home brew road racer

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hey looks good- but i was wondering if the rear loop gives the driveshaft enough up and down room for movement? The chassis definately looks allot stronger than stock, any idea how much the completed car will weigh?
Hotrodln, thanks for following build. The driveshaft can move about 3 1/2 inches up or down in the rear hoop. Bump stops on the coil over shafts will bottom out at about 2 1/2 inches of travel and extended travel on the shock is about the same so shouldn't have issues there I hope.

As for total weight, the car scaled in at 3209lbs in its stock configuration without the driver and had a true 60/40 weight bias with 1900 on the front wheels and 1309 on the rear. I am hoping that the finished car won't weigh more than that and I would really like to get it closer to 3000 lbs. The main concern is where the weight is at, front or back, high or low. I have added about 75lbs of steel framing to the car, not including the roll cage, with most of it below the door sills. Over 1/3 of this is offset by the amount of flooring and frame work I cut out of the car.

Major weight reduction will come from the more spartan interior with aluminum seats and dash and lightened doors. The power train will be significantly lighter as the new engine has aluminum heads, intake and water pump. The 700r4 and stock converter weighs about 190lbs and is being replaced by a 100lb TKO 600 and a 35lb flywheel and clutch package. An aluminum drive shaft will probably find its way under the car as well. The 8.6 ZR2 axle added extra unsprung weight to the rear but I'll accept the trade off for the extra strength and adjustability it will provide.

I will be trying to remove as much weight from the front of the car as I can either by taking off or cutting out unnecessary parts/brackets/bracing, or replacing needed items with lighter pieces or moving the parts farther to the rear. My goal is to get the front weight down to the 54-52% range.

Plans for the front of the car include a custom K-member, a-arms, coil overs and rack and pinion. The front frame horns will probably cut off at the core support and a tubular bumper fitted behind the factory nose. The car has the factory fiberglass Z hood but I have an even lighter Harwood lift off style hood that could shave 5 to 7 more pounds off the front end.
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