JessieJames

Taking the a/c out of 88 third gen.. has anyone tried to make an a/c delete box like hawks has for $150. i plan on making one out of sheet metal to maintain my factory blower.. just need to make a shout into the cabin intake.. not sure if gonna use a one piece design or weld or seal..

anyone done this before? and i heard i want to keep the resistor.. which is the 1 plug with 4 prongs and the coils on the other side of it?


here is the link to one from hawks.
(http://www.hawksthirdgenparts.com/pr...iberglass.html)

-AO-

The resistor controls the 3-low speeds while the blower relay is for the fan's high-speed. I think the high-speed is a little excessive so I got rid of the relay on my RS and just kept the fan usable on the 3 lower settings.

On my Z28, I made a big steel plate and covered the entire passenger side of the firewall. I put a small fan in the cowl duct so air is always blowing from the cowl into the car. For heat, I'm using a small electric heater.

JessieJames

upload some pics.

//<86TA>\\

iTrader: (14)

If you want to experiment with some fiberglass you can cut down the stock a.c. box and reform it with fiberglass. I did that years ago.

redneckjoe

i made one out of sheetmetal. cut a 3" hole and attached a piece of pipe in there. kinda shaped like a dryer vent on a house. not the best pics but it might give you some ideas?

JessieJames

@redneckjoe

did you use factory blower?

redneckjoe

yes. thats what the 3" pipe is for. i'm not near my car right now, or i'd get better pics.

JessieJames

did you use the factory blower housing unit and affixed a 3 inch pipe to it? what did you use to affix the pipe to the factory blower housing unit ? fiberglass?

redneckjoe

IIRC i made a square metal flange with a 3" circle/cut out for the pipe to slide into. i think the square flange had about 3/4" sides to it, to attach it to the blower. so it comes out of the blower, then through the pipe, then through the homemade delete box. it actually works pretty good. i only use it for defroster when it rains, but i rarely drive in the rain anyway.

Base91

iTrader: (1)

Someone posted a pic of a very neat aluminum sheet metal addition to a trimmed down factory box.

JessieJames

where? do you have a link to it?

redneckjoe

i made a chicken scratch drawing of how i attached to the blower, lol. i suck at drawing. anyway, might give you some ideas?

Base91

iTrader: (1)

Sorry not off hand. Try some searches. I'll let you know if I find it.

FRMULA88

The Hawks part is a fiberglass version of the factory sheet metal blower motor box
which came on 1LE cars & S10 PUs with heater only.

worth every penny IMHO for the new hawks piece... you can sometimes find the S10 blower motor box on ebay... not that expensive...

I scapped mine after 10 years when I finished the job and deleted the heater core etc.

Food for thought, race cars don't need heat or AC. so if you are deleting the AC why keep the heater are you driving this in the winter?!

87FBomb

found some on ebay for 120 looks to be fiberglass think im gunna pick it up looks like a great place to mount my msd box and coil and down the road i dont think ill have such a hard time getting to that last exhast manifold bolt.

i use my car for dd in summer rain or shine so i just need the heat to defrost the window when it rains

FRMULA88

um yeah, the defroster works with the A/C in the summer time. Cold dry air quickly defogs the window when it's hot, humid,rainig.. the heater will just make it worse.

also why would you delete AC in a car that is you summer time daily driver?! that is when you want A/C?

you may want to re-think that.

I deleted mine completely because it's not a daily driver anymore... I left the heater for years so I could drive on cool autumn days... for summer I had the t-tops.

IF you plan on racing it makes sence to delete it, but really how often are you going to access the exhaust manifold bolts that it will make a difference on a daily driver?

87FBomb

i live in central new york theres no such think as hot and humid rain up here the rain is usually cold and the defroster works great when the windows fog up and i drive with the window down whenever i can theres no better ac than the wind and i get to hear that exhaust.

-AO-

I can do without AC but heat is a must. My 150 watt electric heater is better than nothing.

brian p

Try this for ideas:
http://mpikas.blogspot.ca/2007/12/ma...3rd-gen-f.html

Brian

87GTAj

iTrader: (4)

Was this the one you were talking about:
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/cool...ac-delete.html

JessieJames

i made my ac delete box with my father last few days budget was about 15 dollars..

JessieJames

and installed..

83RDRACR

That is the box I made for my son's 84. I insisted that he at least have defrosters for safety reasons. After a few years while we were changing engines he took it out and smoothed the firewall. There have been several times he wished he had left it in because the windshield fogged up late at night or if he wanted to take it to work early in the morning to show his buddies.

The finished version was covered in Fiberstrand, kind of a fiberglass re-enforced bondo, as the aluminum sheet was very thin and fragile. Painted black you couldn't tell it wasn't factory.

LastGTA

iTrader: (1)

Interesting approach. I just might try this. What size PVC and what did you use to glue it together?

IrocMBJustice86

I deleted my A\C and just picked up a factory heater only piece from the wreckers. had it sandblasted and powder coated. Looks brand new. Easy, no fuss and it fits because its Factory.

83 Crossfire TA

iTrader: (2)

Hey, that's me... I guess someone has been reading this thread because the site got a bunch of hits from here.

Base91

iTrader: (1)

Yes. I think it looks very neat. good fab work.

formula_novice

iTrader: (1)

Here is the AC delete box I made a while back. It's a little dusty in the pic. Keep in mind it was the first time I ever used fiberglass so have pity

Rolling Thunder

I actually also made my own out of a sheet of 20 ga steel. Fortunately I had factory piece from one of my other cars to copy. Really not to hard if you can weld (really a great practice project).

This is a little over simplified as the part has some curves and baffles but just imagine a flat piece of sheet metal, cut out the raised part, then weld the part you cut out back to the sheet with a roughly 3" or so inch strip of metal as a stand off. 20 ga steel is easy to bend by hand and will give you nice a nice radius just like the factory piece. Then I just welded on some nuts to eliminate the sheet metal screws and some 1/8" rod around the base's edge to give it a little more strength and sort of a factoryish rolled look (actually the factory part has the edges folded up). In the end it looked pretty much like the factory part except the corners were a bit sharper (which I thought actually looked kinda nice).