Hey guys,

Seeing as there isn t much out there about fabricating your own steering wheel, I thought I would start this thread to show how I will make mine.

Aside from the column adaptor this wheel will be completely scratch built. So to start why did I want to build my own steering wheel? 1) I hate the wheel I'm my thirdgen, which is the airbag wheel. It's too big and ugly. 2) Aftermarket wheels are far to expensive for my tight budget. 3) the satisfaction of fabricating your own parts is sky high.

So to get started I wanted a wheel similar to the wheel on the Audi r8 lms ultra. Which can be seen in the i first picture.

So I drew up a 2d image of what I wanted on paper with propor dimensions. And figure out how it would all work. Not really that complicated just the center hub portion and the outer wheel. The center portion will be a piece of 1/4in mdf that will be laminated in carbon fiber. This is a very cost effective way to achieve a strong and good looking part. The wheel portion will be either pine or plywood hand shaped. The wheel will attach to the hub via 6 bolts and nuts. But that will come later.

This project will likely take around 2 or 3 weeks to complete as I'm wiring a ignition panel and doing the LS1 brakes at the same time. So stay tuned for more updates.

Edit: the forum is only letting me upload 1 photo from my ipad. Any idea how I can upload more?

 

It looks like the Audi wheel bolts to a 6 bolt adapter. Why not buy the proper adapter and just bolt an Audi wheel onto it?

Posting pictures is easier if you provide a link to a hosting site instead of uploading them to TGO.

 

This particular wheel is for an audi gt3 race car if i could even find the wheel it no doubt would be way beyond my price range.

 

I could be wrong, but I think a steering wheel made out of wood would not be strong enough... at least for street use, racing is another story

 

Found this on a google search earlier this summer. Might help with your wheel.

http://www.mgexp.com/article/diy-woo...g-wheel-1.html

 

The wooden core doesn't necessarily have to be strong. If you laminate enough CF over it, the strength will be in the skin. In that case, the wood is there mainly to define the shape until the epoxy cures.

 

Pine is not a very stable wood. Look into using white oak or poplar and make sure you cure it for at least 3 months before using it. Interior temps in a car are extreme and will warp or delaminate pine in no time. While MDF is stable, it is weak and I would not want to put my life in its hands.

 

I agree mdf isn't the strongest by the time it is laminated with fiberglass and carbon fiber it will be stronger than it needs to be. The plan is to layup two layers of 3oz fiberglass then one layer of 5.7oz carbon. This will be done on both sides. I've done layups similar to this before and it is very strong. I think I will take your advice and not use pine as your right its not very stable. Although I don't think it needs to be cured for 3 months. It will go in a hot box with the center section for post curing and should come out as dry as its going to get.

 

I hope you never get in an accident, because what you're proposing will definitely break when it takes 20 G's and your face hits the center of the steering column.

There is a reason that steering wheels are made of steel

 

Why not make it like lots of old steering wheels where made. Cut the shape you would like out of 3/16 plate steel. Then just use wood to fill out the outer rim to the thickness you would like and bolt the wood to the metal. Then cover the wood with whatever your chose.

Here is an example

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/1513197...ectorid=229466

 

Safety is a valid issue. However this will be going on a car that will see little street time and mostly track time. And I will be using a 5 point harness so I don't ever see my face making contact with the steering wheel.

 

If safety is really a consern and you will be using it for any type of driving being street or track time you will want to have a metal ring for the core. In case of an accident you would want the wheel to flex a bit before it breaks. with a wooden core the wheel will break in peaces while if you have a metal core then the wood to your shape it will bend and crack but stay together.
Just because you have a 5 point harness on does not mean the steering wheel wont come into contact with your chest in an accident, It can be shoved back into you in a front end collision.
I hope you are going to use vacuum forming to set your carbon fiber and evenly distribute your resin and not allow you to use to much resin, As to much resin will make the part week.

 

I will look into using some sort of metal ring, starting to think it might be a good idea. And I will be vacuum bagging the layup.

 

http://www.jegs.com/i/Grant/470/670/10002/-1
For $200ish....by the time you add an install kit.......ya got the look ya want and the peace of mind that its not gonna be a death hazard in a crash.........
A small price to pay for peace of mind and KNOWING it done to a REAL spec.........

Have you taken into consideration, that when you get to the track and the tech inspector sees a homemade wheel, you will not be allowed on HIS track????

 

like a knife handle, you want a thin core of steel.

 

I think its a great idea. You are motivating me to do the same thing.

 

Not to toot my own horn but I don't think you will be able to tell the difference between my wheel and a wheel that was bought. I don't see any reason a fabricator can't build a wheel that is just as good if not better than a wheel that was produced in terms of safety and usability. This is exactly why I started this thread to show what can be done.

As soon as I get my ls1 brake upgrade finished I will start on this project.

 

buy a rigid sheet of CF and cut the shape you want . in theory.. you could make the loop from CF as well.