im kind of torn between the place to put the rear bars on a 6 point roll bar. should I got to behind the shock area in the rear or to the side over the rear wheels? anyone have pics of these areas?

 

I like them as close to the upper rear spring area as you can get them.

 

Mine is a 10 pt, but I put the bars back further.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/atta...icture-660.jpg

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/atta...icture-703.jpg

 

wanted them close to the SFC's and room on the back deck

main hoop touching interior plastic on both sides at the roof line. it's that snug.

 

how did you get the angle cut to work? the one where tube mounts to rear plate. I cut mine at a 30 deg angle and no matter what trimming or what not I cant get it to sit flat (rear strut bar)

 

what degree angle did you cut the rear strut tubes at? I cant get em to sit flat. or any teqhnic I should use?

 

My saw would only do a 45* cut, I finished the angle off with a 4.5" angle grinder. I can't remember the angle I ended up with, but here's a couple more pics.

In the 1st pic you can see the 45* my saw made, next to it is one I worked on with grinder after the cut.

The second pic is the finished angle to get me flat down on plates.

 

Here's one

 

thank you that helped a lot. I have mine at a 30 deg cut so im thinking angle is way off. ill try 45 deg and grind till flat. thanks again

 

I like that

 

Nothing special requires to cut and notch tubing. My whole cage was done with a chop saw and disk grinder. A sharp angle that a chop saw can't do can be roughly done with a sawzall. Fine tune the cut with the disk grinder.

Normally, you don't want those real sharp angles because it's very hard to weld the underside. A bent tube to get the angle as flat as possible is best however very few people have a tubing bender to make custom tubes.

A short vertical support that the tube can be welded to is just as strong and will reduce the angle of the cut. Cap off the end hole at the top for a cleaner look.

 

Hard to see but my rear bars are welded right to the side of the rear shocks, this was the most solid piece as right above (toward the tail lights) are a hollow spot. I also reinforced under neath the rear bars with a support bar that runs from rear spring pocket to the other.


My hoop is welded forward alittle to the outside of the car so its not on the "empty" seat hump, this ties into my thru floor and perimeter DIY SFC. Tranny tunnel bars are literally bolted through the jegster tunnel brace for the TQ Arm… thus making a very solid connection.

The pics show my old seats, the pic with the swing out door kit shows the new racing cloth seats which I had to custom make seat brackets.

 

I have 5 point harnesses also do they just loop around the "hoop" or do they bolt to the floor? I have the gforce style belts

 

You NEVER put the shoulder belts to the floor!. If the shoulder belts are mounted to far below your shoulders, during a crash they can cause spine compression. This is why NHRA has specs on the roll cage seat bar, must be level with, to no more than 6" below drivers shoulders.

They make the belts in wrap around and bolt on style. The bolt on style will need a tab welded to the seat crossbar, then the belt gets installed in another tab, and they bolt together. Or the wrap around style, where belt goes around seat crossbar, and gets installed into a bracket to hold belt together/tight.

The lap belts gets bolted through floor (brace and support area with a plate)
The crotch strap gets bolted through the floor or better yet to a crotch strap bracket that runs between the seat mounts.

 

Yup, basically what he said lol. Shoulder belts (you can see mine are wrap around style) and work great. I welded some "hoops" that center the shouldn't straps that wrap around the bar to keep them from sliding from side to side (so they stay put). You can see the hoops on the driver side but not the pass side.

Crotch belt uses a through floor big @ss bolt with a fat washer on it basically.

Installing a roll bar/cage is a lot of work… all the measurements have to be within spec, shoulder to elbow height for door bars, cross bar in relation to shoulder height, placement of the bars and certain bars are not NHRA approved (low profile door bars). Door bars that are straight and fully welded are best but make it very difficult to get in and out of the car. Pure drag car its ok as your not doing it often but my car is a street car so taking it to shows and stuff i wanted a swing out door kit.