LostX

iTrader: (1)

Back in the summer of 2011, I purchased a 1988 firebird formula 5 speed with a 350 swap. It was a pretty decent car for what I paid. The previous owner had done a 350 swap from an equivalent year Camaro and threw a carb on it. It was a factory t top car, white exterior, with a gray interior. It was a Florida car its whole life.


So over the past 4 years I have driven it probably around 15,000 miles a year (but since the odometer has never worked I technically have never put a single mile on it). I had done a few mods to the car over the past few years;


installed a 28 spline posi unit, new 3.42 gears, aluminum driveshaft from a 92 Camaro, holley 670 carb, 4th gen plastic gas tank with the internal converted for a carb, pbr rear disc brakes, hurst short shifter, 17x9.5 wheels all around, jeep steering shaft, and fiberglass hood are what come to mind now.


I've also done a fair share of repairs including;
new radiator, power steering pump, power steering box, new poly bushings all around, ball joints, new exhaust ypipe, on my 3rd transmission, and many more small things.


I moved the car up to Mississippi running on only 7 cylinders. I quickly fixed the problem but I was under such a time crunch for the move that I couldn't diagnose it in time.


Otherwise it has been quite a good car, that is until February of 2015 which was the last time this car was my daily driver. After finishing up the new power steering pump I must have forgotten to pin the hood. As I get to work by 6:30 I was too tired and it was too dark to notice, but the hood basically ripped in half on my way to work. That's when I had enough and just bought a new 2013 ford.


Since then i've had the car in the garage for 8 months, starting it and driving it whenever I can. A few months ago I had decided to turn this car into a racecar, primarily autocross. Since I don't care any bit about the resale value of this car, I've got a plan to just make this a mean, stripped out 4 seater. I will be taking weight reduction to the extreme on this thing.


I will post what pictures I have soon and keep this post updated.
My goal is to have this car ready for the autocross up here in North Mississippi by next summer.

LostX

iTrader: (1)

Hera are some pictures of the day I bought it in 2011

LostX

iTrader: (1)

LostX

iTrader: (1)

New Wheels





Battery Relocation









New Hood










And New Carb

LostX

iTrader: (1)

All of the previous pictures have been from when this was my daily driver, I will update with new pictures with the race car build.

AlkyIROC

I'm pretty sure that battery mounted on the firewall won't pass a tech inspection.

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

If it is properly mounted why not? Or is it specific to firewall mounting that's the issue?

I have a rear mount kit ive been meaning to install I just don't have the ambition.

-- Joe

AlkyIROC

Well the first issue that I can't see in any of the pictures is a master cutoff switch mounted at the rear. Any battery not in the OEM location needs the master cutoff switch. Switch needs to be wired into the positive cable and must kill the engine when turned off.

As for the battery location on the firewall, it will really depend on tech inspection if they'll let if pass or not. I just can't see the weight hanging off the sheetmetal as a proper mounting location.

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

I don't see the rules stating you cannot move it from the OEM battery tray to an alternate tray in the engine compartment. If you relocate it to the trunk you need a shutoff. Seems like OEM strap or welded J hooks and metal strap are the only requirements:


8:1 BATTERIES
All batteries must be securely mounted; must be of sufficient
capacity to start vehicle at any time. Batteries may not be relocated
into the driver or passenger compartments. Rear firewall of .024-
inch steel or .032-inch aluminum (including package tray) required
when battery is relocated in trunk. In lieu of rear firewall, battery
may be located in a sealed .024-inch steel, .032-inch aluminum, or
NHRA-accepted poly box. If sealed box is used in lieu of rear
firewall, box may not be used to secure battery and must be vented
outside of body. Relocated battery(s) must be fastened to frame or
frame structure with a minimum of two 3/8-inch-diameter bolts.
OEM located batteries without complete OEM hold-down hardware
must be secured to OEM battery box/tray using the same 3/8-inchdiameter
bolt hold-down method described in previous sentence.
(“J” hooks prohibited or must have open end welded shut.) Metal
battery hold-down straps mandatory. Strapping tape prohibited. A
maximum of two automobile batteries, or 150 pounds combined
maximum weight (unless otherwise specified in Class
Requirements), is permitted. Maximums may vary according to
Class Requirements.

8:4 MASTER CUTOFF
Mandatory when battery is relocated, or as outlined in Class
Requirements. An electrical power cutoff switch (one only) must be
installed on the rearmost part of each vehicle and be easily
accessible from outside the car body. This cutoff switch must be
connected to the positive side of the electrical system and must
stop all electrical functions including magneto ignition. The off
position must be clearly indicated with the word “OFF.” If switch is
“push/pull” type, “push” must be the action for shutting off the
electrical system, “pull” to turn it on. Any rods or cables used to
activate the switch must be minimum 1/8-inch diameter. Plastic or
keyed switches prohibited. Switches and/or controls must be
located behind rear wheels on rear-engine dragsters

AlkyIROC

So mounting it to the firewall isn't mounted to the frame or frame structure. Even my rear mounted battery sits on top of and is bolted down to a crossmember that's welded between the frame rails.

Since that firewall mounted battery is not in the OEM location even though it's still under the hood, it needs a master cutoff. Too many people especially in slower vehicles feel they need to move the battery somewhere else and don't realize all the extra stuff required to pass tech. If you never take your car to the track, you can do whatever you want

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

Hrmm.. When I mounted my PC680 firewall to the inner fender, with the PC680 cradle it passed tech.

http://sepbatteries.com/media/catalo...80holddown.jpg

I assumed "relocated" was interpreted as moved out of the engine bay. I wonder if I can email NHRA tech for clarification.

-- Joe

AlkyIROC

Ryck Campbell is your Div 1 tech director. You can contact him directly at rcampbell@nhra.com

That tiny race battery isn't really the same as an automotive series lead acid battery weighing 30+ pounds

Like I said, it becomes the tracks tech inspectors to make that final decision. Just because it passes tech one day, it may not pass tech on another if someone else is working in tech.

When I worked in tech, there were a lot of questionable things especially on the Friday night street legal nights. We refused a lot of common things like bald tires, missing wheel nuts, insecure seats, bungee cords holding down batteries etc. I questioned a Miata one night because the battery was in the rear. Since it was in the OEM location and not relocated, a master switch was not required.

My car runs 9's. Master switch is required even if I still had the battery in the OEM location.

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

I'll drop him a line, thanks.

The safety stuff is crazy. My 412" motor and J-trim blower will make 1,000+ hp. I could run high 9 second passes with a car that looks 100% stock. But the safety stuff is going to cost almost as much as the motor...

I guess I'll do the minimum to get a 10.00 cert and just pulley the blower so I don't break out.

-- Joe

AlkyIROC

That's a common complaint from most people who have a fast street car. 8 second turbo street cars that can't legally race at a track because they don't even have a roll bar/cage then they get all pissed off at the track complaining that they don't want to hack up the interior to put a roll cage in.

Spending money to go fast is a package deal. You can't just invest on the engine and powertrain without upgrading the rest of the vehicle to meet the safety requirements and expect to get any proper track time.

You can buy a rolling dragster or altered. Drop in a mild SBC and run 10 second 1/4 miles with very little maintenance required and very little safety equipment required compared to getting into the 9's.

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

Some stuff though.. For a 10 second cert.

Like the c-clip rule should be waived if you have disc brakes. Aftermarket axles .. There is no SFI spec, but they must be "Aftermarket"

Engine oil retention device (diaper).

Transmission blanket


The roll bar won't be an issue, but the SFI restraints will be.. I'm not aware of any that are DOT approved, so then the car cannot be driven on the street.

-- Joe