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Anybody know if someone is selling these besides Hooker? I didnt use their mounts so I doubt it'll work...
86 Camaro , long tubes, ls swapped with set back plates & 350 mounts. The factory crossmember lines up with trans mount about an 1/2- 1 inch further back, I got it to work, but will give me poor exhaust clearance
Here is another alternative. The pass throughs are at the same angle as the frame rails, 22.5 degrees. The brackets are 1/4” and the tubing is 1 1/2” X .120 wall. The arches were 4” X 1/4” tubing. Exhaust is dual 3”.
Nice. The only thing is that it puts a lot of strain on the already puny bolts. I drill and tap the stick threads for m12 and if it has tgat much setback I add another set of nut plates further back. Simply drill tge frame for the hole. Then I use a flare ounch to dimple the frame and weld in a nut and grind it flush.
I bought a 5" dia x 6" tube, cut it in half and modified the stock piece.Fits better than the hawks part.
Originally Posted by Twin_Turbo
Here's one I did
Originally Posted by soloc4
Here is another alternative. The pass throughs are at the same angle as the frame rails, 22.5 degrees. The brackets are 1/4” and the tubing is 1 1/2” X .120 wall. The arches were 4” X 1/4” tubing. Exhaust is dual 3”.
Originally Posted by Twin_Turbo
Nice. The only thing is that it puts a lot of strain on the already puny bolts. I drill and tap the stick threads for m12 and if it has tgat much setback I add another set of nut plates further back. Simply drill tge frame for the hole. Then I use a flare ounch to dimple the frame and weld in a nut and grind it flush.
Looks like the passenger side will not have any space to work with. How are you guys clearing this? Passenger side
I cut a notch on the frame, but that's for the cat (this is my illegal exh).Also i'm using 2.5 pipes.If you're just gonna run a straight piece you may have clearance issues, i used several small bends to route the tubing and it doesn't rattle/bang/vibrate at all.Even on crap roads or over r/r tracks
My legal exhaust, i also mounted a heat shield, but on the trans bolts.
Here is another alternative. The pass throughs are at the same angle as the frame rails, 22.5 degrees. The brackets are 1/4” and the tubing is 1 1/2” X .120 wall. The arches were 4” X 1/4” tubing. Exhaust is dual 3”.
I noticed most if not all of you are using a manual transmission. I'm using a 4l60e. I'm able only to get a hump on driver side. I will have to do something different on passenger side.
Edit: also it seems like to get the hump on drivers side, I would have to move/remove the hard metal lines . This wont be a problem because I ran my own fuel lines, but seems like it would be a pita
Last edited by 86iroc504; Nov 5, 2020 at 06:56 AM.
This is how I did it: S***ty Spohn X-member that never fit right (I cut the flanges off it) for reference. Obviously I don't have a torque arm, but that bracket is easy to fabricate.
This is how I did it: S***ty Spohn X-member that never fit right (I cut the flanges off it) for reference. Obviously I don't have a torque arm, but that bracket is easy to fabricate.
Ha ha yours look much better than mines.. great work
Ha ha yours look much better than mines.. great work
Thanks man, I made a jig out of the old cross-member to preserve the orientation of all the flanges since all 3 of them are at different angles! I could potentially duplicate it, but I'd have to make a different version for torque arms, and various transmissions.
And of course, ALWAYS use CAD (Cardboard aided design).
Thanks man, I made a jig out of the old cross-member to preserve the orientation of all the flanges since all 3 of them are at different angles! I could potentially duplicate it, but I'd have to make a different version for torque arms, and various transmissions.
And of course, ALWAYS use CAD (Cardboard aided design).
Yea, nicely done, I used the cardboard design for the offset angle cuts myself