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Decided to turn a hard top into a targa using the old hard top this is just a rough draft no frame flex at all but I know better than to drive around like that with out reinforcement I'm gonna give it a tube frame
Last edited by Johncassonova; Aug 16, 2021 at 01:04 PM.
Interested to see how this goes. I like the out of the box idea.
Hope to see it come to completion.
my man doubt to believe when they say that oh and I quote the body will crumple under the weight of the top being cut off unquote its false my man true that it will crumple when "force is applied to the body when moving down the road" but this is car is stationary for the time being
my man doubt to believe when they say that oh and I quote the body will crumple under the weight of the top being cut off unquote its false my man true that it will crumple when "force is applied to the body when moving down the road" but this is car is stationary for the time being
Trust me, its flexing.
Literally all the chassis stiffness there is coming from the trans tunnel as there is no direct connection from the front to back.
There is a reason that when people do things like this they weld in support bars to keep the frame from flexing.
my man doubt to believe when they say that oh and I quote the body will crumple under the weight of the top being cut off unquote its false my man true that it will crumple when "force is applied to the body when moving down the road" but this is car is stationary for the time being
The above post was very hard to read, but I made it thru. All I can ask is who's comments are you referring to? Better not be mine because that would make zero sense. I said interesting idea. Will watch build.
Why did I say that? Because 99% of people on here that go the "extreame" mod direction never finish. Period.
The floor of the Car should really have been repaired (looks like there are some big holes/ rot) before starting this.
It would have been ideal to the install Sub-Frame Connectors with additional Tie-In Points as well.
Lastly, temporary Tubing/ Bracing should have been welded together inside of the Cabin to keep everything aligned as best as possible.
Otherwise the Doors may not close properly from misalignment/ shifting...
And the new Targa-Top also may not want to fit in place properly from misalignment/ shifting.
I have built many, many Third-Gens for my Customers.
Even a solid-roof Third-Gen with the typical Sub-Frame Connectors (Spohn, BMR, UMI) still have twisting issues...
And it only gets worse, when adding some Horse-Power (Torque actually) to the Car.
My Personal Third-Gen (T-Top Camaro) with roughly 1,000 Ft/Lbs of Torque, still has Body/ Sub-Frame twisting issues, with the following:
-Spohn style Sub-Frame Connectors (Outer).
-Alston style Sub-Frame Connectors (Inner).
-10 Point/ 12 Point Roll-Cage.
-Both sets of Sub-Frame Connectors tied together with 8 additional connections per side.
-Roll-Cage tied into the Sub-Frame Connectors, and additional tie-in points as well.
Literally all the chassis stiffness there is coming from the trans tunnel as there is no direct connection from the front to back.
There is a reason that when people do things like this they weld in support bars to keep the frame from flexing.
Well no duh I didn't say I was gonna be stupid and drive it around without support I said that sitting still it does not flex like some other people believe and the support stock comes from THE WHOLE CAR you may like to drive around without pinch welds and rocker rails and door sills but I don't.
Last edited by Johncassonova; Sep 13, 2021 at 09:09 PM.
Literally all the chassis stiffness there is coming from the trans tunnel as there is no direct connection from the front to back.
There is a reason that when people do things like this they weld in support bars to keep the frame from flexing.
Originally Posted by vorteciroc
The floor of the Car should really have been repaired (looks like there are some big holes/ rot) before starting this.
It would have been ideal to the install Sub-Frame Connectors with additional Tie-In Points as well.
Lastly, temporary Tubing/ Bracing should have been welded together inside of the Cabin to keep everything aligned as best as possible.
Otherwise the Doors may not close properly from misalignment/ shifting...
And the new Targa-Top also may not want to fit in place properly from misalignment/ shifting.
I have built many, many Third-Gens for my Customers.
Even a solid-roof Third-Gen with the typical Sub-Frame Connectors (Spohn, BMR, UMI) still have twisting issues...
And it only gets worse, when adding some Horse-Power (Torque actually) to the Car.
My Personal Third-Gen (T-Top Camaro) with roughly 1,000 Ft/Lbs of Torque, still has Body/ Sub-Frame twisting issues, with the following:
-Spohn style Sub-Frame Connectors (Outer).
-Alston style Sub-Frame Connectors (Inner).
-10 Point/ 12 Point Roll-Cage.
-Both sets of Sub-Frame Connectors tied together with 8 additional connections per side.
-Roll-Cage tied into the Sub-Frame Connectors, and additional tie-in points as well.
About your major rot comment one hole in the passenger side floor is major rot? give me a break. Worry about your own car not mine and don't promote your business to me I do not I care do my own work
Last edited by Johncassonova; Sep 13, 2021 at 09:14 PM.
The above post was very hard to read, but I made it thru. All I can ask is who's comments are you referring to? Better not be mine because that would make zero sense. I said interesting idea. Will watch build.
Why did I say that? Because 99% of people on here that go the "extreame" mod direction never finish. Period.
not referring to you my man I got messaged by someone a while back he won't show his face on this post beacuse who knows why anyways its already complete not gonna show pics since everyone on here thinks they're a comedian and just wanna bash my stuff all damn day **** this place in out ain't gonna miss this crap
Well no duh I didn't say I was gonna be stupid and drive it around without support I said that sitting still it does not flex like some other people believe and the support stock comes from THE WHOLE CAR you may like to drive around without pinch welds and rocker rails and door sills but I don't.
Don't get your shorts twisted because you don't like the information given.
These cars will crack the B-pillar on hard-tops from repeated twisting of the frame.
The front frame horns require the triangular braces to prevent the frame from cracking where the steering box attaches due to the stress of turning the wheels. The stress is greatest when the car is at a stand still as compared to motion.
Taking the support the center bar provides out without adding in extra bracing while you build the Targa WILL result in a frame that is not straight. It could be fractions of an inch, but it WILL be off.
Its a well known fact that the unibody is a wet noodle. Most cars of the era were.
But, if you want to chance your #'s being off because the frame shifted, that's your decision.
Look at the bracing that was added by ASC for Convertible conversions.
About your major rot comment one hole in the passenger side floor is major rot? give me a break. Worry about your own car not mine and don't promote your business to me I do not I care do my own work
Hey!
1: I am NOT bashing on your Car (Many Third-Gens are in far worse shape).
2: I do NOT promote my Business here, you will never find the name or location mentioned on this Forum or any other (I also constantly have more work than I can handle, and I am constantly turning people away).
3: I am just trying to provide safe information for both yourself, and your Car (FREE of charge).
