Wow! You really have put lots of work and thought into this. If Pontiac had you on the 6000 STE project, the car would be in Jay Leno’s garage instead of a land fill somewhere. I look forward to seeing your test drive.

 

Drop by anytime

 

Finished the front pans, pedal box, tunnel front and thigh armor plate. Still a few small areas to fill in, but the hard part is done

I finally built a trans mount. Hammer forming some 1/8" in a vice. Slotted with a file... oof
Initial drivetrain angle is significantly tail down. This is to bake in adjustment adding from washers/shims under the mount



Thigh armor finally showed up. That's 3/16" plate double bent 45*. While the front driveshaft will have several safety loops, I'd just feel safer if there was some significant metal between the shaft and my leg



First up was a lengthwise cut and angle it 90*. Mount to the trans x-member brace and frt toeboard corner. Set to 1" clearance from the OD of the shaft. With the frt diff solid mounted to the oil pan, the shaft will never articulate, so clearance can be tight


Toe board corner formed, main floor made



Started on the pedal box area. This was pretty complex. The point at the top is from a relief cut I made in the firewall. The header was pressed up against the firewall, so I leaned it back some for clearance. Firewalls are easier to modify than header tubes at this point

 

I sliced the top 45* of the plate to flatten it out. Then a simple flat sheet can be used



Front needs a little trim to clear the hydraulic lines



Totally unnecessary, but good practice on the bead roller. I probably should have mounted it backwards to be seen with the trans out. Sound deadening and carpet will totally hide the panel



Welded the floor and toe board in to move to the LH tunnel. I goofed on the template for the tunnel, so there's a strip added




For the tunnel flange, I opted for short 90* pieces. Single piece would be nicer, but I was pressed for time already. The trans was pulled to button up the bottom. I'll have to pull the engine to finalize the front of the tunnel and fill the firewall holes





I cut the shifter hole and welded the top cap on. It'll probably need to be extended rearward for an offset shifter. I'll figure that out later




I have about 20hrs in the front section. Hopefully the rear is easier

Next up is the torque arm mount behind the t-case. It'll have to be VERY strong, while being removable to get the t-case out. TBD
Need to bite the bullet and order the frt coil overs. Once their structure is welded in, the wheel wells to frame can be filled in. That should be the bulk of fab work done

 

Great work so far - I really appreciate the extra time taken for the bead rolling.

 

Awesome work on the car.

 

This thread and this work, make this forum a better place.

 

Gotta say great work, i came across your build on facebook. Here i was worried about doin some floor patch work and you cut the whole thing out, look forward to seeing this build completed. keep up the good work.

 

No progress, but realized I hadn't posted any pics of the whole system recently

Lots going on in there

 

This is an incredibly project and top-notch fab skills. Nice work!

 

I got to play in the shop for a few hours and made a little progress

Since the front DS stuff is finalized, I could pull the pan/diff and finish modifications. Previously, I cut the trailblazer and 302-1 pans in half and welded them together. The front was notched to clear the steering drag link. Time to finish the internal floor mods

To reiterate, the trailblazer section is only to hold the front diff accurately. It will remain hollow structure. The two drains and filters would be a good prank later on







Back to the welder. I shouldn't need this back until the actual LSA goes in to stay

 

I also did the quick fab to mount the iBooster. Compared to the fabrication marathon of the AWD, this was no sweat. Maybe an hour in this. I posted a more detailed writeup in the brakes forum for others to follow

 

Here's the booster installed under that 1953 AWD pickup I posted at the start. I really like these units, plus this pic turned out awesome with all the SS hardlines
This truck had 6 piston Baer brakes with 14" rotors. Stopping could be as gentle or violent as you needed. The Trans Am will be more modest with C5 13" fronts and Fbody LS1 12" rears, but hopefully is up to the task

 

Built the torque arm mount and the drivers floor pans

Maximum motorsports 99-04 Mustang TA mount. Super heavy
I only need the middle section



This ended up more complicated than expected. The front thin wall tube is where the seat brackets will mount. Middle is heavy wall and has the TA mount attached to the bottom. It's removable so the t-case can come lout easily. Rear thin wall tube holds up the flooring and center loop. Since the t-case is a home-job, I don't have 100% faith in it not exploding. This loop will keep the tail out of the cabin area should it come apart

Additional gussets will be added to the TA tube. The MM mount absolutely cannot break off the tube

Yes, this is excessively heavy; ~50lbs or so. That's an add more HP problem though




I laid a tube across the added tubing to scratch the paint on the floor tubs. I'm raising the floors slightly for exhaust clearance. I plan to mount the mufflers under the rear seat bottoms, so this metal needs to go



This exposed the factory torque boxes. Inner "hole" is the main rear frame rail. This needs to be tied in
Outer "hole" is the LCA mount. The SFC rocker rails I built already sandwich these, so they don't need much help



The bottom needs a cap plate and the triangular hole closed. Otherwise done

 

Hard part of the tunnel is done. Carpet is going to suck...
PS side will be a breeze by comparision

Time to figure out the DR seat/sliders




I also bought a Monte Carlo SS pedal to modify. Gotta keep the 3rd gen honeycomb

 

Is this expected to be a "full feature"/loaded car w/ seating for 4? Or is this meant to be a light weighted, more of a fun toy?

Fab looks awesome as usual!

 

As close to full feature as possible

 

I started fiddling with seat brackets. I welded threaded rod to some flat stock to try and get a mock-up. Not loving it





I decided to re-clock the t-case some more for more seat space. For now, it's precariously attached via two bolts. Only 2/6 can be used in the S10 tail extension with this position, so I'll have to redo that later. For now, floor pans

To start, I did most of the shifter build. It's a combo of a camaro TR6060 divorced shifter and a C5 hurst







Just need to know where the seat is positioned to adjust the F/R length. While I'm not a fan of the DR side pan/tunnel, it does atleast set the seat position, so shifter can be done
The rear of the shifter base mounts to the t-case. Front will mount to the t-case adapter which isn't built yet. Another piece that can only go 80%

 

I only had a few hours to crank out the PS floor pan and redo the DR, so no progress pics, only the end. The joints are semi- fitted with the intention of most being hammer formed when welded

I made a pretty big goof on the raised panels that will not be corrected. The first few panels were recessed. I goofed on this set by raising the design. Oh well

Might add a few more designs in the DR panels, TBD. Of course I ran out of metal and couldn't do the last piece on the tunnel same day




This is how much seat real estate was gained clocking the t-case

 

Drivers side is totally finished, welded, ground down and ready for seam sealer/paint

DR seat bracket built. Unfortunately it has a "gangsta lean" built in. The seat base needed to go upwards to clear the tunnel even with a little recess. The seat back needs to lean back to get ample headroom with a helmet

(seat pic not found)




I made the last panel to cap off the tunnel. Welded the PS rear section and mid tunnel pieces. Seat braces still need to be welded in once I decide what to do. Chipping away at it little by little

 

The project is coming along nicely and your fabrication skills are fantastic. My question is what are you doing about exhaust routing. 3rd gens AR notorious for lack of room for exhaust routing. You've got a very crowded tunnel with the transfer case and front driveshaft, and you've made both floors relatively flat. I don't see any space to run the exhaust.

 

This is an amazing build. I can't even imagine the man hours getting this far. What a true labor of love. What do you intend to do with this when you are done? Acceleration should be AMAZING. It might be fun on a road course too.

 

The floors are pretty tall compared to the chassis. Exhaust will come pretty soon after the floors/firewall are finished, so stay tuned. Dual 3" SS

 

I had +200hrs planning before ever touching the car, maybe 80-100hrs in the mock-up, probably 150-200 building the chassis, installing it and fabbing the floors. It's definitely a labor of love, but if I ever do it again it will be considerably faster

Intentions for the car... that's a tough one as it's a mixed bag. Partly it's a last hurrah from my younger days wanting "all the powah!" and finally putting an old motor I've had for +10 years to use. Partly it's a demonstration of my skills for my hotrod shop. I'd like to expand past the typical LS swap, restomod into more custom stuff as I love deep fabrication. I've had a few owners ask me about taking their Chevelle, 1st gen Camaro, etc to the next level, but nothing to really show them explicitly what that would look like. The 1953 at the beginning of the thread was the closest. Classic A, B, G body cars would be simple compared to a relatively tiny Fbody

I know that's not really a great answer, but I don't have a direct purpose. It's not a dedicated drag car, corner carver, garage queen or anything. And yes, I'll probably get bored of it 3 months after hitting the streets and be ready to build version 2, however that may look

Acceleration is nice, but a buddy has been joking with me about popping in a 2spd t-case, dropping it in low range and dominating "slow races" for T56 cars

 

What an amazing work you're doing on this car !!!

 

Looks great

 

This is soooo cool. Wish i had the motivation to go this far with a build like this. Amazing work!

 

I haven't had much time to focus on this car for quite a while, but I did get a key piece finished

Oil pan mods are finished!




The front oil filter port doesn't go anywhere now. Would be a fun prank to blow peoples minds using two filters



Front notch to clear the steering drag link


New pan "floor" to box out the front sump and only use the rear sump
Pan rail didn't need much cleanup to be true. I'm still going to coat it with RTV just to be sure



One diff stud had to be moved to clear the oil filter. Fortunately, both the oil filter and bypass plate clear the yoke/header

 

I love these updates

 

Me too. Pan looks awesome. Well done. Thanks for continuing to share all of this.

 

That's a good solution. Would it also be possible to employ the S-10 style adapter and remove oil filter mount? Those are pretty low-profile and only leak in three-year intervals.

Also, a "shortie" oil filter spun onto that surplus mount would be a good way to cover/seal it, and a great distraction to the casual observer. Cheap, too.

 

Any updates? I just ordered some parts from rockauto.com to see how they play together. I discovered that the uplander front knuckle that I spotted in the junkyard and figured would be rare as hens teeth is actually used on tons of gm vehicles. I ordered unit bearings from a syclone, 5on4.75 26 spline, but the flange is a few millimeter different. The other idea that was close was corvette rear hubs but they are 30 spline. I just found a 3.42 front diff on marketplace and hopefully will have that next week. Been researching to find a limited slip option for it but struck out so far. I ordered some 14inch vette rotors and found some Chinesium ctsv 6 pot calipers on ebay. Hopefully it will all fit inside a 17inch wheel. I haven't decided what coilovers to run. I could stick with the fbody aftermarket for those, or anything from an impala or monte carlo should fit with a plate on the tower. I'm leaning towards the latter for ride quality. I have a trailblazer oil pan I picked up years ago to play with and now that I have a differential on the way I can start mocking things up and seeing how they play together. Over the years I've been collecting ls7 parts and last winter I assembled a wet sump converted cathedral port afr1390 head and fired it on the stand. And I have a vette tr6060 I've been looking at putting the transfer case on. Thanks for the research on the s10 axles. The trailblazer axle are definitely going to be to long, but I went ahead and ordered a cheap set. Also I found some vette lower a arms cheap on ebay. Went ahead and picked those up too. Doesn't seem like they will work but it's worth a shot to save a few pounds.

 

Few points

 

I'd be interested in the diff housing parts, also any cv axle bits or whole if you are set on your fitment for those. I've received the calipers and rotors and they play together except the pads overhang the friction surface on ID and OD about an eight inch.


I have two more sets of knuckles on the way to test fit. The 27 spline typhoon hubs do not interface well without some machining, but will be supported on the hub side by a 1/4inch lip. The bolts are on a larger diameter circle and it would appear that stepping up to a 14mm thread and remachining the spindle and hub could bring them into concentricity. (If that is a word). The corvette 30 spline hubs fit the spindles perfectly, I found a Malibu cv axle with 30 spline, was hoping I could put the trailblazer 26 spline on the inboard of that and it should end up close to the length I need, but the axle shafts and tulip joints do not interchange. I have one more set of 27 spline hubs to investigate, from an 84 vette. The spindles I've ordered so far do not seem to have any alignment angles built in and are mirror images seeming reversible for rear steering or front. Just gotta swap the matching caliper, left with left and right with right so the bleeders stay on top. I did order a cheap mustang coilover kit as per your suggestion. Inspired by your oil pan design, I thought why not cut the diff support off a used pan and weld them on a holley or fbody pan so no need for welding inside the sump....I guess the pass through would be the issue.

 

I haven't thought this out much, but it could be interesting to see the new Hawks Spindles machined out to allow the axle shafts through. It uses the corvette hub by standard, but it should be a standard GM bolt pattern... probably a splined hub out there that would work.

 

Diff/parts, shoot me a PM. Just pay shipping and they're yours. They're mock-up quality only, not good to rebuild

I remember the pad overhang previously. I changed nothing and it didn't seem to matter, but did not run them longterm. Doing it again, I'd bevel the overhanging part of the pads back

As for the hubs, the center register is the only critical dim. If that's a snug fit, then punching the holes out larger is a viable option. If the holes are too big, then cut sleeves to take up the gaps

Don't worry about CV axles until the diff is roughly mounted. If you aren't using off the shelf S10 base, S10 ZR2 or trailblazer axles, then you'll need custom CV's. For the latter, hub spline doesn't matter because you'll specify that to the CV mfr
For my build, I used one S10 base axle and one S10 ZR2

For spindle angle, I meant the angle the coilover attaches to the spindle
If you look strait down the spindle axis, the strut should be angled both towards the engine and towards the rear of the car
Doing the same setup on the FWD spindle, which direction does the strut point?

For the pan, the "pass thru tunnel" extended up into the floor area of the 302-1 pan. Seemed less work to cut both in half and fab a new floor. You could cut your own mount points, but welding them on accurately would be quite the challenge

 

Yeah the angle speak of on the strut seems quite similar between all the makes of gm and ford for that matter. Though I haven't had eyes on a third gen strut in about a decade...my car has been in storage that long lol. I caught my self wondering if it were some kind of industry standard with the strut manufacturers. Wishful thinking probably. I ordered a set of strut bolts from spohn and they are larger diameter than the modern gm spindles. Difference between 5/8 and 16mm maybe. We'll see how the spacing lines up when the ford struts get here. As for the oil pan I think I'll just stick with the front sump design and perhaps the notch for the center link, or I might end up switching to rear steer. Do you think your steering notch would interfere with the oil pickup. I know you didn't test that is it wasn't your design. You said that the s10 box ended up 4 inches further forward? That makes me doubt that front steer will work at all with the stock box.

 

Ouch $795 plus extra machine work to fit them. I think I'll try to stick with making a $50 existing spindle work

 

My oil pan notch did not interfere with the oil pickup. It was present when the new floor was fitted to avoid that issue

 

Oops

 

I haven't be able to directly work on the car much at all this year, but that hasn't stopped the gears from turning on solving issues

Right now I'm mulling over the steering setup
I really want a steering rack for a number of reasons, but the extreme tie rod angle eliminated traditional mounting. Here's a rough mock-up of a T-bird PS rack. There's a giant oil pan and diff in the way!


As a result, I chopped up and modified a drag link and have a S10 style steering installed. It's huge, heavy and takes up a ton of space. I don't like it



That's where I left off until I saw a crazy russian doing crazy things to an old lada and their unique steering linkage got me thinking
(Pic not found, see falcon linkage below for similar design)

The center of the steering is the part that holding me up, so why not offset just the center?

I then discovered 60-65 Ford falcons also used this offset drag link, so the precedent is there


Getting back to the rack aspect, if i moved it far forward and used a CTO unit, the linkages should work
It would have to be a rear steer unit, because swinging the opposite side of the idler pivot will reverse the steering input direction
Since I'd have to make the idlers, I could adjust the ratios of the idler arm. That would allow shorter travel racks to still get the full sweep of the spindles
Downside is the extreme complexity. That's alot of failure points introduced

Rough sketch to illustrate the idea




Then I stumbled onto this thread. Awesome build, well worth the read
Post 542-543 cover his offset rack in a much simpler form
https://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vbo...332026&page=22

The jist of it is to remove the rack's inner tie rods and affix a plate directly to the rack ends. The inner tie rod mount is moved outboards on the plate as needed. Since the rack's gear shaft is still a round shaft, something needs to be added to prevent it from rotating in the rack housing. A linear actuator rod is attached to the rack mounts and travels with the steering assembly





That seemed to be a much simpler solution. On the plus, the inner tie rod mount is only dictated by where it's attached to the plate. Bump steer can be tweaked my moving it anywhere along that plate
The down side is deflection cause by the offset plate. The fellow above used 3/8" steel to rein it in, but was also in a <2400lb car. This Fbody is considerably heavier
It also limits rack selection. Travel needs to match. The inner tie rod pivots need to be very close to the S10 drag link pivots too. Thankfully, both the T-bird and BMW rack I already have are similar. ~6" of travel and ~24" at the pivots (according to a few forums)
Here's the sketch




Thoughts? Concerns?

 

Flaming River sells some kits that use a simple cross bar and a pair of rollers. The kit pictured is for 4000lb trucks. I think you could do something similar by adding a forward leg to your tie rod mounts. On the plus side, it should add some stability to your tie rod plates.

 

83RDRACR made this post, but on a totally different thread. Possible site glitch? Anyways, the info within was too good to be buried. Relevant links also supplied

His build thread which is excellent reading
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/fabr...oad-racer.html

Posts 283-334 cover the meat of the rack setup
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/fabr...ml#post5838797

Post #4 of this follow up thread covered the drag link rollers
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/fabr...oad-racer.html

Looks like a game plan for this TA

 

Absolutely loved reading through this and catching up with your progress, incredible work! Can't wait to see more updates!

 

It's been a minute. I had to make a new account due to a PC failure and not being able to access the defunct email attached. Hopefully that can be resolved, so I don't lose a +20 year old account on here

Anyhow, big changes to the build

So, I decided to move the car from my shop to my home garage, so I bolted all 4 wheels on a welded temp bars to simulate the ride height. Apparently, I made a huge blunder as the PS wheel has minimal turning radius before hitting the fender. I feel like the entire S10 subframe was welded in crooked. Most likely it was due to haste on my part, but not having any strait features on the frame didn't help. I also made a mistake by not fully articulating the suspension/wheels before finalizing everything

Since it all has to come out, why not improve things with a clean-sheet design. Most of the decisions were made as a compromise and now would be a great time to address them. EX: unequal length CV axles which often leads to TQ steer. Poor control arm angles, wonky steering, overly large frame rails, heavy cast iron spindles etc

This is the design phase all over again. I really don't remember much about suspension design from my FASE days, so this will be another learning experience. That said, I'm using quite a few constraints that will complicate the endeavor, because why not

For wheels, I have three choices all with the same tires. I'd like a GTA mesh wheel to look stock, but the low offset may or may not be feasible. High offset wheels are the C5 deep dish and classic C4 ZR1's
17x9" +16mm Hawks GTA wheels 275/41/17
CV05 17x9.5" +56mm Deep dish y2k wheels 275/40/17
CV01 17x9.5" +54mm C4 ZR1 wheels 275/40/17

When researching spindles, I found there were NOT very many options. Almost everything semi-moderns was McP strut or the tall double wishbone (ex 4th gen Fbody). Tall spindles severely limit wheel options and are almost always cast iron. Non-GM spindles were nixed because my CVs require a 3 bolt S10 27sp hub
98+ S10 4x4 cast iron w/ C5 brakes (long steering arm requires long travel R&P)
C5/C6 aluminum (short arm)
Solstice/Sky aluminum (short arm) a guy on LS1tech started an AWD design using these before scrapping the project
CPP MII or C10 2" drop for C7 hubs cast iron (don't know any of the specs). I've used non-drop version of these on a few builds. Nice pieces, but drop would be required for CV pass thru clearance
2010ish Buick Lacrosse with a hi-per suspension. McP style suspension, but has a double wishbone style spindle. Geometry is likely wrong, but it was an interesting design

Last resort, convert back to Mcphereson strut using a FWD spindle. Finding useable coil overs, setting the proper angle, upgrading brakes and then dealing with the rear to front steer flip seems daunting

There isn't a perfect solution

Drivetrain will shift to the PS 1" to center the diffs. The short/long CV axle combo changed to short/short or long/long depending which overall width fits the body best

2x3x.120" main frame tubing with 1.5"sq and 2"sq legs for the LCA points
Custom control arms with poly bushings and common BJs. BJs need to have options for .5" and 1" extended to adjust suspension geometry
Coilovers as intended previously

 

I found a local guy parting out a C5 and picked up the frt suspension for a song


Comparing C5 to CPP M2 standard height. Notice the lower BJ position and how a CV could never pass through. CPP offers 2" drop versions, but I haven't confirmed anything



And because nothing is ever easy, here are the die grinder mods done to the C5 spindles to fit the S10 hubs. The OD is about .025" larger and the mounting bolts wider apart
The counter sunk hole was elongated with a flat topped bit. The aluminum chewed very easily with some WD40, so this wasn't a major undertaking. I tested the CPP spindles and they require the same treatment. Those would be sent to a machine shop if I was going that route


Caliper/rotor mockup. Of course the height is different too, but nothing a few shims can't solve. Why GM, why can't anything be standardized?



Lastly, something unique to the C5/6 spindles is the incorporated upper BJ. Not a huge deal, until I considered where to buy a bushing/mount for a custom A-arm. I'd prefer to purchase one, because to make one locally would require also buying an expensive 10* reamer. I'm going to attempt to use C5 UCAs to save some time/effort. They're already engineered, dead simple to mount/adjust and are crazy light weight. The main hold-up will be if I can fit a coil over beside the CV axle and inside the narrow arm. An oddity for using these arms lies in the BJ angle built into the control arm. This requires the suspension to droop off the chassis and cannot be mounted in a level or upward rake. Interestingly, the control arm will hit the spindle before the BJ maxes out

 

Next up, I modeled the parts

C5 brakes, S10 hubs, S10 and C5 spindles
S10 spindles were modeled with multiple lower BJ pivots. Stock, flipped and ext BJ flipped. To flip the BJ, the old hole must be machined out and a tapered sleeve pressed in and welded. While I didn't have a particular sleeve in mind, I was betting the old K5/K10 SFA BJ repair sleeves would be usable
Since I didn't have any cut open BJs, I had to make an assumption on pivot locations. They all seemed pretty close to 1" above the surface on everything I measured. I'm sure it's something metric, but it atleast got me in the ballpark

The main reason to do that was to change the kingpin inclination angle (KPI)



Next I added wheels
I'm glad I did this exercise because I can't find a way to make the GTA wheels even drive-able. Scrub radius is the distance from the KPI to the tire contact patch CL. You want this .25-1" towards the inside of the tire. These dims would be borderline undriveable. Any change in road crown, surface, pothole etc would pull the car. 3rd gen guys (myself included) often discovered this when running wide front wheels as the car was darty and wandery regardless of how good the alignment was





Switching to a high offset wheel corrected this number. Unfortunately, it means no GTA wheels, but I'd rather learn that now, than after the car is completed



Knowing all that, the C5 spindle seems the obvious choice. With all the numbers I need, it's time to design a front suspension. I really don't remember much from my FSAE days on this subject so I spent weeks reading on the subject. Now I'm full of novice level confidence, so feel free to chime in where I most certainly will make a blunder

Good reading in here
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/susp...do-i-make.html
https://www.rctech.net/forum/electri...ll-center.html
https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/fo...s/43604/page1/
https://www.racecar-engineering.com/...d-roll-centre/

This guy was probably the most helpful

Another good one

Here's an early draft that ended up not being feasible. Notice the UCAs angle down toward the chassis. C5's can't do that based on the BJ angle cut into the piece. Were I fabbing UCAs too, it would be viable
Notice how the guide lines cross the center line


This is closer to how a stock C5 is with downward angled control arms. The guide lines point away from the chassis. It's very easy to get a very low roll center with this setup
Putting my noob hat on again, I can't find an answer to which suspension layout is preferable to which scenarios. Nearly every explanation uses the above basic design with crossed guide lines, but most OEM setups are the lower. I made an excel doc of the susp pivot points so I wouldn't lose the time spent optimizing various features



I'm also unsure on control arm ratios. It seems the rule of thumb is 2:3 up:low overall length. OEMs are never close to this formula. C5 and S10 are closer to 1:2
I drew the above with an 8.55 C5 upper and custom 14" lower. Shorter lowers will be easier to package around the front diff

The numbers are easy enough to play with using this tool. I'm looking for a second analyzer so that I won't be betting the farm on one tool

https://www.vsusp.com/#0.8%26project...inclination%7D

 

Playing with other elements

A bunch of people on here have sought the center of gravity and there isn't a consensus. Obviously it will change quite drastically car to car, but I needed something to start from from a gut check point of view
Sofa and a few others have estimated it to be somewhere between the shifter and radio on a totally stock V8 car, so that's atleast something
My drivetrain is approx 2" taller than a standard LS swap. Drop some weight for the aluminum LS, then add some back in for all the AWD stuff. Let's estimate final weight around 3600. Heavier than a stock car, but not terrible
Going by sofa's estimate plus 2", I measured approx 37" behind the front wheel CL and 20" above the ground for center of gravity

Will need those for side view suspension tuning of the anti's, primarily dive and squat

 

Aren't front and rear C5 knuckles the same p/n?

 

Yes they are