Whats the best exhaust? What are the best headers?
#1
Whats the best exhaust? What are the best headers?
Lets start off the new year right with the answers to these questions that get asked 50 times a week. First of all, do a search on this forum. There are literally a ton of posts that will tell you the answer to your question if you just do a search for "exhaust" or "headers" or similar. I'm going to make this a sticky post, but I wont lock it, for now. Any replies will be considered for addition to this thread, and then deleted.
Q: Who makes headers for thirdgen f-bodies?
A: SLP, Hooker, Dynomax, Hedman, and Edelbrock are the most popular, and they all have 50-state smog legal headers. There are other companies out there too who make long tube headers, Hooker probably being the most popular. Which one is the best? Thats a matter of opinion. SLP is the only company that makes smog-legal 1 3/4" headers as well as 1 5/8". The others are all 1 5/8". If you plan on making more than 300 HP to the rear wheels, the 1 3/4" are what you want. You can do a search to find out other's opinions, as this is a much-discussed and heated debate. Single and dual-cat headers are for the most part identical, its just the y-pipe that is different. And yes, there is no difference between 305 and 350 headers, they all bolt up to any small block Chevrolet heads on any size engine. You do have to watch out for Carb vs TBI vs TPI headers, however. Carb and TBI headers have THERMAC and/or Carb-heating devices that wont be there on TPI headers. However, the manufacturers in their infinite wisdom usually make the Carb/TBI headers and y-pipes smaller, so you want the TPI versions anyway. This will require some customization on your part to get your stock stuff to fit. Do a search and you'll find out more.
Q: Who makes cat-back exhausts for thirdgen f-bodies?
A: The same companies above, as well as Flowmaster, Magnaflow, Borla, etc. Again, there are other companies too, but these are the most popular. Which one is the best? Well thats up to you to decide. Just about any 3" mandrel-bent stainless steel exhaust will benefit your car and last for a long time. Listen to your friend's cars with different exhausts on them and choose the one you think sounds the best.
Q: Who makes catalytic converters for thirdgen f-bodies?
A: CarSound, Catco, Random Technology, and others. I recommend CarSound because they are good quality as well as a great price. But they're all good converters.
Q: Should I gut my catalytic converter or replace it with a straight pipe?
A: If you still have a stock converter on there, replace it immediately with one from the above companies. A catyltic converter is a federal emissions device and tampering or removing it on a street vehicle is a federal offense punishable by a fine and/or jail time. Today's cats are more efficient and cleaner burning than ever before, and you will lose anywhere from zero to five horsepower by having one. Thats nothing you will notice or feel. Do yourself and the environment a favor by keeping your cat. Not to mention you give our performance car hobby a bad name by removing your emissions devices.
Q: Who makes headers for thirdgen f-bodies?
A: SLP, Hooker, Dynomax, Hedman, and Edelbrock are the most popular, and they all have 50-state smog legal headers. There are other companies out there too who make long tube headers, Hooker probably being the most popular. Which one is the best? Thats a matter of opinion. SLP is the only company that makes smog-legal 1 3/4" headers as well as 1 5/8". The others are all 1 5/8". If you plan on making more than 300 HP to the rear wheels, the 1 3/4" are what you want. You can do a search to find out other's opinions, as this is a much-discussed and heated debate. Single and dual-cat headers are for the most part identical, its just the y-pipe that is different. And yes, there is no difference between 305 and 350 headers, they all bolt up to any small block Chevrolet heads on any size engine. You do have to watch out for Carb vs TBI vs TPI headers, however. Carb and TBI headers have THERMAC and/or Carb-heating devices that wont be there on TPI headers. However, the manufacturers in their infinite wisdom usually make the Carb/TBI headers and y-pipes smaller, so you want the TPI versions anyway. This will require some customization on your part to get your stock stuff to fit. Do a search and you'll find out more.
Q: Who makes cat-back exhausts for thirdgen f-bodies?
A: The same companies above, as well as Flowmaster, Magnaflow, Borla, etc. Again, there are other companies too, but these are the most popular. Which one is the best? Well thats up to you to decide. Just about any 3" mandrel-bent stainless steel exhaust will benefit your car and last for a long time. Listen to your friend's cars with different exhausts on them and choose the one you think sounds the best.
Q: Who makes catalytic converters for thirdgen f-bodies?
A: CarSound, Catco, Random Technology, and others. I recommend CarSound because they are good quality as well as a great price. But they're all good converters.
Q: Should I gut my catalytic converter or replace it with a straight pipe?
A: If you still have a stock converter on there, replace it immediately with one from the above companies. A catyltic converter is a federal emissions device and tampering or removing it on a street vehicle is a federal offense punishable by a fine and/or jail time. Today's cats are more efficient and cleaner burning than ever before, and you will lose anywhere from zero to five horsepower by having one. Thats nothing you will notice or feel. Do yourself and the environment a favor by keeping your cat. Not to mention you give our performance car hobby a bad name by removing your emissions devices.
Last edited by Kevin91Z; 01-01-2003 at 12:07 PM.
#3
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To avoid emissions troubles and or warm up hampering when using TPI headers on carb/TBI engines, Hooker offers simple kits for the THERMAC device that include a stove, flex tube and clamps. PN#10930 is a 1-1/2" system and PN#10936 is a 1-3/4" system. It is possible to rig up the same sort of system yourself if you are creative enough.
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Car: '81 Trans Am
Engine: 6.6L
Transmission: auto 350
So your saying I should get tpi headers for my carb engine??? What is this "THERMAC" thing your talking about. Is it the larger hose that connects to the breather so your carb wont freeze up? I have an open element filter so I dont use that anyhow. I do want a set of headers for my car,,,I dont have to worry bout emissions stuff. Any sujestions on if I should get tpi headers, carb headers, long or short headers. I also need to get a y-pipe too??
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Car: 82 Pace car
Engine: Small block
Transmission: TH350
I have a 408 smalblock and I put the Hooker Super Comp headers on. They are 1 7/8 headers and they fit and look awesome. The were the only header that would fit with my kicked out oil pan. Hooker and Hedman are the ONLY companies that make any thing bigger than you standard 1 5/8 headers. You will have to Fab up a Y pipe with any long tube header
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Car: 99 Formula
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 342
Originally posted by StreetRCR
I have a 408 smalblock and I put the Hooker Super Comp headers on. They are 1 7/8 headers and they fit and look awesome. The were the only header that would fit with my kicked out oil pan. Hooker and Hedman are the ONLY companies that make any thing bigger than you standard 1 5/8 headers. You will have to Fab up a Y pipe with any long tube header
I have a 408 smalblock and I put the Hooker Super Comp headers on. They are 1 7/8 headers and they fit and look awesome. The were the only header that would fit with my kicked out oil pan. Hooker and Hedman are the ONLY companies that make any thing bigger than you standard 1 5/8 headers. You will have to Fab up a Y pipe with any long tube header
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Car: '92 Rally Sport
Engine: LO3
Transmission: 700R4
The main thing I am looking for in headers (besides a great y-pipe) is removable AIR tubes. I want to be able to remove them for looks once I start getting my car into shows and also so I can use a pyrometer in the future with an MPFI setup to tune individual injectors. Now I know this is probably only just a dream and that I will have to fab something up in the future, but if ANYONE made headers like that I would seriously consider buying them.
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Car: '92 Rally Sport
Engine: LO3
Transmission: 700R4
Originally posted by TransAmTBI
would 1 and 1/2" be a bad choice for headers?
would 1 and 1/2" be a bad choice for headers?
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Car: 1986 Iroc
Engine: 454 Demon 850DP
Transmission: TH350, 3500 stall
Axle/Gears: 3.73
I think the Hooker 2210 Supercomp long tubes are 1 3/4" and the Hedman longtubes are 1 5/8"
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Car: Check The Sig
Originally posted by Kevin91Z
New Jersey's smog checks are just as tough as California's. There's no way you're passing smog without AIR tubes and all that hooked up, no matter what the manufacturer says about being 49-state legal. There's no such thing anymore.
New Jersey's smog checks are just as tough as California's. There's no way you're passing smog without AIR tubes and all that hooked up, no matter what the manufacturer says about being 49-state legal. There's no such thing anymore.
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fyi.
my 93 Chevy pickup had SLP stainless headers / y-pipe on it.
they were AIR headers, but the truck wasn't. GM has a stainless plug that fits in that single hole on the trucks, and it has passed many smog visuals here in Delaware.
If anything, I would think having the plug would throw up a flag!
Chris400
my 93 Chevy pickup had SLP stainless headers / y-pipe on it.
they were AIR headers, but the truck wasn't. GM has a stainless plug that fits in that single hole on the trucks, and it has passed many smog visuals here in Delaware.
If anything, I would think having the plug would throw up a flag!
Chris400
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Car: 1989 IROC-Z
Engine: L98
Transmission: T-56
Originally posted by Kevin91Z
New Jersey's smog checks are just as tough as California's. There's no way you're passing smog without AIR tubes and all that hooked up, no matter what the manufacturer says about being 49-state legal. There's no such thing anymore.
New Jersey's smog checks are just as tough as California's. There's no way you're passing smog without AIR tubes and all that hooked up, no matter what the manufacturer says about being 49-state legal. There's no such thing anymore.
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Car: Check The Sig
NJIT, thanks.. that gives me more confidence when i rip all that crap off this summer... ill have my headers, heads, cam and cat back put in before i go for inspection.. am i asking for it or what!?!?!? my luck ill fail for gas cap or something..
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Car: 1989 IROC-Z
Engine: L98
Transmission: T-56
Originally posted by bigals87z28
NJIT, thanks.. that gives me more confidence when i rip all that crap off this summer... ill have my headers, heads, cam and cat back put in before i go for inspection.. am i asking for it or what!?!?!? my luck ill fail for gas cap or something..
NJIT, thanks.. that gives me more confidence when i rip all that crap off this summer... ill have my headers, heads, cam and cat back put in before i go for inspection.. am i asking for it or what!?!?!? my luck ill fail for gas cap or something..
dont take it as a guarantee, but they never said a word. the only thing the guy asked for was for me to shut the hood. it doesnt like to shut properly.
#20
Originally posted by NJITIROC
not correct, i have no air pump in my car, passed with flying colors on my 89 IROCs emissions. i failed for a busted 3rd brake light
not correct, i have no air pump in my car, passed with flying colors on my 89 IROCs emissions. i failed for a busted 3rd brake light
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Car: 1989 IROC-Z
Engine: L98
Transmission: T-56
Originally posted by Kevin91Z
Just because you went to an easy guy, doesnt mean everyone will. As always, your mileage will vary. And yes, it is correct that New Jersey's smog tests are just as tough as California's.
Just because you went to an easy guy, doesnt mean everyone will. As always, your mileage will vary. And yes, it is correct that New Jersey's smog tests are just as tough as California's.
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Car: 1991 Corvette Coupe
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700R4/4L60 same trans different name
Originally posted by Kevin91Z
Just because you went to an easy guy, doesnt mean everyone will. As always, your mileage will vary. And yes, it is correct that New Jersey's smog tests are just as tough as California's.
Just because you went to an easy guy, doesnt mean everyone will. As always, your mileage will vary. And yes, it is correct that New Jersey's smog tests are just as tough as California's.
for whatever reason, its not "working" like it was expected
i have heard this from several credible local sources, saw it in the newspaper
and local shops who spent big bucks on dynos are pissed to hell about it
i'm not sure if they are going back to the idle only/tailpipe test or what the alternative will be
if anybody knows anything more, please let us know
#24
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I'm gonna chime in and say that I think the Hooker 2055 headers are the best out there period! I know I'm gonna get a lot of crap for saying that because it seems that everyone believes the SLP's are the best. It seems to me the only advantage the SLP's have are they are stainless steel, but that doesnt matter if you get the headers coated. The Hookers have 1 5/8 inch primaries which are just fine for anything making less than the 450 hp range. The hookers also have a 3 inch collector which does neck down to a tiny 1.9 inches at the ball flange, but that problem can easily be fixed by opening that up to the ID of the y pipe. The SLP's only have a 2 1/2 inch collector that necks down inside. I have heard many horror stories about the SLP's fitment and a lot of work needs to be done for them to fit right, whereas the hookers fit nicely with no modifications. Now comes the sweetness of the 2055's; the awesome y pipe! The hooker y pipe is by far the best y pipe available for the third gen f body, it is a work of art! It has nice 2 1/2 inch mandrel bent pipes that come together in an awesome 3 inch collector all the way to where the cat mates to the y pipe compared to the SLP y pipe that only has 2 1/4 piping.. The hooker y pipe doesnt stick out in the wheel well like the SLP y pipe does either. Now another strength of the hookers are they are wayyyyyyyyy cheaper than the inferior SLP's. I have done extensive research on all the brands of headers and have found that the Hooker 2055 headers are by far the best headers available!
Last edited by 25THRSS; 05-07-2003 at 03:16 AM.
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Car: 86 Z28
Engine: 305
Transmission: 700r4
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thermac is the aluminum hose that hooks up to the stock air cleaner right? if so most people prolly won't need it.
all it does is use ambiant* (spelling) manifold heat and a the hose to send warm air to carb/tbi
all it does is use ambiant* (spelling) manifold heat and a the hose to send warm air to carb/tbi
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Car: 86 Z28
Engine: 305
Transmission: 700r4
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i asked in case anyone with tbi wanting to use tpi headers as mentioned in topic above needed to know. i'm not really conserned for me persay but it was to get a frequently asked question out of the way. thanx.
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Car: Check The Sig
flowtechs are good for a stock 305, but if you want my real opinion, there a waste of time. Just save up some more and get hedmans non air tube headers. they are 109 plus another 100 for the y pipe. im not sure, but people have had to weld a bung for the o2 sensor on the y pipe, but in the pics that hedman has, its there, right below the collector.
#31
Originally posted by bigals87z28
Just save up some more and get hedmans non air tube headers. they are 109 plus another 100 for the y pipe.
Just save up some more and get hedmans non air tube headers. they are 109 plus another 100 for the y pipe.
It seams like a waste to neck the y-pipe down to 2.5 inches to open it up to 3 inches the rest of the way.
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Car: '92 Rally Sport
Engine: LO3
Transmission: 700R4
Originally posted by Formula_Fire
25THRSS, commented on the hooker headers anyone else have any input or experience with them? (asking because I was considering them)
25THRSS, commented on the hooker headers anyone else have any input or experience with them? (asking because I was considering them)
Later,
Harry
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Car: 1992 Firebird
Engine: TBI 305
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 2.73
Thanx for the info I think I'll get a set later, besides with the money I save on them VS SLP I could probably get them JET coated, and the whole Y pipe thing sounds like the best bang for the buck.
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Car: 84 Trans Am
Engine: 350
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 9in 4.30's
Originally posted by bigals87z28
Yes, jersey smog checks are very strict.. but i know that everyone that took off there air tubes off there manifolds or didnt have tubes on there headers all passed emissions.. not only did they not have AIR tubes, but some have even taken out the actual AIR pump and they still have passed. The AIR tubes dont really effect the emmisions that much as removing the cat would. AIR tubes are really only for visiual inspection, and most people that work there are dumb asses anyway so they dont know what the heck their looking for. Im sure if you got another jersey owner in here, they would say the same. I still need to watch inspection, but im not worried about my AIR tubes when i get my headers. The engine will be a lot better looking with out all that clutter there too.
Yes, jersey smog checks are very strict.. but i know that everyone that took off there air tubes off there manifolds or didnt have tubes on there headers all passed emissions.. not only did they not have AIR tubes, but some have even taken out the actual AIR pump and they still have passed. The AIR tubes dont really effect the emmisions that much as removing the cat would. AIR tubes are really only for visiual inspection, and most people that work there are dumb asses anyway so they dont know what the heck their looking for. Im sure if you got another jersey owner in here, they would say the same. I still need to watch inspection, but im not worried about my AIR tubes when i get my headers. The engine will be a lot better looking with out all that clutter there too.
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Car: 91 Z28
Engine: Forged 383
Transmission: Pro-built 700R4
Can I ask why this post is a sticky? If you want people stop asking the same exhaust questions, why don't we just lock up this forum and archive it? There's always going to be advances in the auto (exhaust) industry and maybe some of the answers to these newbie questions may change as time goes on. I'm just curious that's all.
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To add to the idea of this thread about cutting down repeat posts on questions that have been asked countless times, here is a link to a header coating test that car craft did in august 2002.
Hopefully this will answer the normal questions about header coatings like: Is it really worth it? Does it really work? Etc, Etc.
Read this article and judge for yourself. I myself read the article and realized it was definately worth it. It's the reason I just installed "coated" hooker 2055's that I bought from jet-hot on my car.
http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/80038/
Hopefully this will answer the normal questions about header coatings like: Is it really worth it? Does it really work? Etc, Etc.
Read this article and judge for yourself. I myself read the article and realized it was definately worth it. It's the reason I just installed "coated" hooker 2055's that I bought from jet-hot on my car.
http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/80038/
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Car: 89 camaro RS
Engine: soon to be juiced built 357
Transmission: turbo 350
how much hp can the hooker comp shortie headers take not the 2055 cuper comps but the regulars.
Last edited by supermaxxbasher; 07-22-2003 at 08:52 AM.
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Car: 1988 Trans Am
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 5 spd
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt w/eaton posi 3.73
MAC
What about the MAC products for our cars. They look like they have a good quality to them. Anyone have experience with them?? Seem a little pricy though..
http://www.macperformance.com/store/...ategory_ID=566
http://www.macperformance.com/store/...ategory_ID=566
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