Here's a couple answers to commonly asked questions:

Is there a turbo/supercharger kit for my V6? Ans: No, you'd have to completely fab everything up, which is why no one on this board to date has done it. Many have talked about it, but none have followed through. So if you talk about it and get laughed at or just not taken seriously, you now know why.

I want to start modding my 6....where do I start? Ans: Do a search for TomP's full tuneup.

My engine needs a rebuild OR I still don't have enough power OR I have a high mileage engine, what do I do? Ans: Well, any high mileage engine should have a new timing chain thrown in. Refreshing this will do wonders. Still not enough or need a complete rebuild? Honestly, the cheapest way to do this would be to find a 3.4L shortblock out of a 93-95 F-body (you can find them in junkyards) and swap it in. It's a straightforward, direct swap...and it'll fool Cali tests.

What is the best exhaust? Ans: For the money, most people go with a full dynomax catback. At around 150 and a direct bolt in, it's hard to beat.

What about lowering springs? Ans: I think that DropZone (only found them on Ebay) makes them for V6's, but none of the major companies do. EDIT: Suspension Techniques makes them too.

Can I cut my springs? Ans: Yes, but it's not recommended....it changes the spring rate and decreases handling.

FYI-If you do drop your car, then you'll need an adjustable panhard rod to recenter the rear, and LCA relocation brackets to drop the LCA's lower if you want to correct the suspension geometry you just F****D up by lowering the car.


If you guys have anymore, post em. Be warned though, if I don't think it belongs here, I'm deleting the post. Only questions/answers, no comments. If you have a problem with mine or someone's question/answer, then PM....that's what it's there for.

 

LCA's are lower control arms, for anyone who doesn't know.

If you want headers for your V6 go here:
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=160965

There are many many old but useful threads in the data base to help you out. This is the greatest button in the world use it wisely

 

A V6 transmission will not bolt to a V8- different pattern. He's a plate that should mate the V6 trans to a V8 for $65 (note:no one here has tried this yet) http://www.speedwaymotors.com/produc...o=91&redirect=

3.4 block is stronger than the 2.8/3.1 blocks. Stronger castings/Better for hot roding.

Average third gen V6 1/4 mile time stock- 17's sec range

Optimal exhaust size (catback) for a 60*V6 is 2 1/2"pipe tubing.

gutted cats or high flow cats will only show improvements above about 4000-4500 rpms

 

Good idea, Overclk350!

A) 90% of power/driveability/reliability problems can be fixed by a major tuneup. That's why a major tuneup should be your first mod. <a href="https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/showthread.php?s=&threadid=162251" target=new>Click here for the last posting of my major tuneup message, opens in a new window.</a>

B) If you're new and don't have a manual yet, buy the $15 Haynes 82-92 Camaro or 82-92 Firebird manual. It will get you off to a good, "beginner-level" start. The essential manual is the GM Service Manual, available new from http://www.helminc.com - don't use the Haynes for diagnostic procedures. Sometimes you can find the Helms on eBay.com.

C) Spend $60 on a brand name (ex: Husky, Craftsman, SK) socket set. Make sure your set has "6 point" sockets in it. 99% of the time, you will use metric sockets on your 2.8/3.1. Buy a cheap $15 Walmart set and you'll ruin your sockets and bolts and cause a mess. Ruin a bolt bad enough, and you'll have to pay someone to remove it, and you might have to buy a replacement socket. That's another bonus about the brand name socket sets- LIFETIME WARRANTY. You only buy it once.

D) Besides the engine and bolt-pattern for the transmission, just about everything else on our V6 f-bodies is the same as for a v8 f-body. Use the internet catalogs and http://www.summitracing.com to find part #s; chances are, if it's spec'd for a v8 305/350 Camaro/Firebird 82-92, it'll work on our V6's.

 

I think TomP means 12 Point Sockets" , as the intake manifold bolts have those.

I have this thread: CAI/Ram Air ideas going o for those looking into improved/better air induction.

 

No, TomP means 6 point sockets. These allow more torque to be applied to a bolt, and protect the bolt heads better than 12 point sockets. As to intake bolts having 12 point heads, well, my '86 doesn't. If some models do, then a single 12 point socket should be bought separately. A beginner's socket set should have 6 point sockets in them. Buy 12 point sockets later- if you need them. I haven't used a 12 point in quite some time; and I doubt a beginner is going to be taking off their intake right away.

[edit] Hm, just re-reading this, and seems like I was coming off like I was being a jerk- wasn't trying to be! Just clarifying.

 

Invest on a pair of saftey glasses when you work under your car. Theres so much debrits and whatnot that can get into your eye. My plenum has the 12 point bolts on it, thats about the only thing on my motor that uses them.

 

I thought of another thing. If you plan on doing any work on the interior of your car, you should invest in some quality TORX sockets. The interiors on our cars use mostly this type of screws.

 

#1 Thing to remember is: BE SAFE!

Most people that are new to working on cars are going to be cautious, but some are not going to think about it. It isn't worth you getting hurt to save a few dollars.

Never rely on a jack alone to hold the car up if you are going to be under it. Wear safety glasses when grinding and spraying stuff. When in doubt, ask someone who has more experience than you do.

Also: Nitrous is readily available and a good upgrade for our V6s. I use a 75 HP shot and feel confident that any 60 degree V6 in decent shape can handle that on a fairly regular basis. Any more than that and you are taking a much bigger chance with your motor. Also, my kit is for an 86-95 5.0 liter Mustang. It is from NOS, and works well with our engines, and is about $200 cheaper than one that says it is specifically for a 2.8 or 3.1 liter F-body.

 

Dont type in all CAPTIAL LETTERS, THIS MEANS YOUR YELLING ON THE INTERNET. Lately theres been quite a few members who have caps lock on.

 

If you ask about putting NOS on the car:

1. NOS is a manufacturer name- that's IT! It does not stand for nitrous. That's like putting a message up asking "Who has Holley on their car?" Well, Holley what? Holley ignition? Carb? They own Earl's, so do you mean hoses and fittings? And I picked Holley because guess what- they also own NOS. NOS stands for Nitrous Oxide Systems.

2. Other manufacturers of NITROUS systems, besides NOS, are NX, Edelbrock, and Compucar. It's stupid to ask "Who has Edelbrocks' NOS system?" Why would Edelbrock sell NOS? They don't. They sell NITROUS setups.

3. Asking who put NOS on their car will pin you as a recent viewer of "The Slow and Serious". Asking who put Nitrous on their car gains more respect, and you'll probably get a more serious answer.

 

Anyone got that webpage with the 3.1 stroker kits and what not for our 2.8?

 

Here's some interesting and helpful links for 60*V6 engines:

Basic specs and info on performance parts- http://users.spec.net/home/emxjc/

ARI Racing engines sells basic stroker kits for 2.8 to 3.1 /3.4 conversions(Keep in mind that the 2.8 blocks are not as reinforced as the later '93-95 3.4 blocks):
http://www.engine-parts.com/GMV6/gm28stroker.html

GM HT3.4 "new" performance crate motors (this is the same motor that came stock in the '93-'95 3.4 Camaros):

http://www.sdpc2000.com/cart.asp?act...id=120&pid=116

Aftermarket performance 3.4 heads ( Fully ported & polished $850- free shipping/ optional 1.8"intake valves add $200) 3.4 cast iron heads will bolt right up to a 2.8 or 3.1 motor:
http://www.supersixmotorsports.com/

62mm Throttle body (stock is 52mm):
http://www3.sympatico.ca/fjpeters/throttlebodies.htm

Headers:
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=160965

High performance vavle train components/ Crane Cams ( Camshafts, springs retainers, pushrods, roller rockers...):
http://www.cranecams.com/master/apps/chevy1.htm
or Competition Cams magnum 1.52 steel roller tip rockers (Note: these are the best you can buy for use under the stock 2.8 valvecovers, 1.6 steel and any aluminum rockers need Fiero valvecovers for clearence):
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...CA%2D1413%2D12

ASP crank underdrive pulley ( Buy through summit racing- least expensive- $38.39):
http://store.summitracing.com/defaul...1800&x=13&y=14

 

I think I might be a little helpfull today.

I want a V8!
Well then go here many people have swaped thier 2.8 or 3.1 for a v8.
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/for...=20&forumid=20
I want a 4.3 V6!
Go to the link above although Its the same effort to swap a 4.3 in as it is to swap a V8 and you will have less power and roughly the same poor fuel economy.


SSC

 

N.O.S. Nitrous kit part# NOS-05115 Safest shot is 75HP and sells for $475.95 you can get it at summitracing.com

 

Use your engine castings before rebuild. Thought I had a large journal block till I ordered bearings for it. Call the dealer with the casting number. They'll tell you how old it really is.

 

LOL, you hate the term "NAWZZ" as much as I do, maybe more.

I'm not going to comment on the original post, and leave it at that.

For some great information and forums for the 60*V6, go here: www.60degreev6.com

The 60*V6 has some great potential, and recently a stock bottom end 3.4 with a turbo laid down a high 300HP (387HP IIRC) dyno pass to the rear wheels, so withthe right parts and tune it is a great engine. Yes that was in a Camaro, but a 4th gen.

Can I use my 3.2L turbo hybrid build as a "follow through" even though it's not in an F-body?

 

Or buy broken ones at garage sales, return them to Sears, and get new ones!

 

LOL. that is the most valuable piece of advice on this topic. I buy broken craftsman tools all the time and do just that. ROFLOL.

 

Found a 2.8/3.1 expanded overview of internal parts- could be helpful to someone.

http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...=1&catalogid=1