Looking for my first Camaro...
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 6,499
Likes: 31
From: Macon, GA
Car: 1992 Camaro RS
Engine: Vortec headed 355, xe262
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 9-bolt 3.70
Looking for my first Camaro...
I've always had a thing for these third gen camaros... I think it has something to do with my dad owning one when I was younger, though I barely remember it.
So I'm perusing a lot of the local listings for Third gen camaros... 83-92, right?
Either way, I'm sure you guys get tons of these, but I did a search and I couldn't really come up with anything i was looking for... so here's a few questions...
1. this will be the first car I've ever bought for myself, by myself... Something I'm actually looking forward to doing... so any tips on how not to get screwed over?
2. What kinds of things should I look for on a 3rd Gen Camaro? What kinds of things are good indicators as to whether or not everything is about to fall apart or not. Seems like it's kind of a crapshoot with things that old.
3. What kind of maintenance is a car this old going to take to keep running? I keep thinking it really wouldn't be that bad since it's older and simpler and most of it is fairly straightforward. Not too many computer chips to fry out and cost $800 or anything... How reliable are these cars usually?
I just have to make sure whatever I get is in pretty good condition I guess. But I was hoping you guys could shed some insight...
So I'm perusing a lot of the local listings for Third gen camaros... 83-92, right?
Either way, I'm sure you guys get tons of these, but I did a search and I couldn't really come up with anything i was looking for... so here's a few questions...
1. this will be the first car I've ever bought for myself, by myself... Something I'm actually looking forward to doing... so any tips on how not to get screwed over?
2. What kinds of things should I look for on a 3rd Gen Camaro? What kinds of things are good indicators as to whether or not everything is about to fall apart or not. Seems like it's kind of a crapshoot with things that old.
3. What kind of maintenance is a car this old going to take to keep running? I keep thinking it really wouldn't be that bad since it's older and simpler and most of it is fairly straightforward. Not too many computer chips to fry out and cost $800 or anything... How reliable are these cars usually?
I just have to make sure whatever I get is in pretty good condition I guess. But I was hoping you guys could shed some insight...
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Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 14,298
Likes: 197
From: Doghouse ······································ Car: 1989 Formula 350 Vert Engine: 350 L98 Transmission: 700R4 Axle/Gears: B&W 3.27
Car: 87 Formula T-Top, 87 Formula HT
Engine: 5.1L TPI, 5.0L TPI
Transmission: 700R4, M5
Axle/Gears: Sag 3.73, B&W 3.45
RUST--
1) The rear fenders around the wheels are usually one of the first places that they like to rust out. THere is a double lip on the fender and make sure its not filled in in places. If its smooth anywhere Its either starting to rust more more likely has some bondo.
2) Check the bottoms of the doors and behind the front fenders for rust,
3) Take a look underneeth to see what is there, Check the floor pans for rust holes...
4) Look in the engine compartment for any RUst, except for the exhaust manifolds there should be very little if any under there. I would avoid anything that has holes especially around the strut towers THe cross member for the engine usually has a rusted color, as I do not think it was ever painted from the factory.
5) Look at the suspension pieces, they tend to have some rust as they are in the weather, look for holes.
Engine:
1) I guess it would depend on what you want to do with the car. BUt a TPI, V8 will have the most value, AND it will be the fastest AND it should give you the best milage.
2) THerer are alot of 305 posing to be 350's if you want a 350 car then make sure the 8th diget in the VIN is an 8, 305's are F, G, H.
3) Reliability, I would probably avoid a CFI (cross-Fire) 82 & 83 only car, although they can be alot of fun I hear alot of horror stories and there is little support for them.
4) Personally I would never Ever purchase antying less than a TPI again... But I am familiar with the system
Transmission
1) You can get a 700R4 rebuilt for around 1000-1200, and thats with a shift kit & all... If you do it yourself its alot less, but alot of work and you have to be very **** on how you take it apart so that it goes back together correctly.
2) The 700r4 is a good trans, so is the World Class 5 speed made from 88-92, the early 83 - 87 Trans are good for the engine they are paired with, but not as strong.
--- NOTE --- You will never find a Factory 350 paired with a Factory 5 Speed transmission. NEVER EVER EVER. --- NOTE ---
Things I would avoid if I was new to 3rd gens...
I would probably avoid a car that had a bad gas tank fuel pump Although it seems simple to change its a Big job expecially for a first timer... On the up side its straight forward, and not difficult, it is justa royal PITA.
A 4bbl is not necessarily easier to work on, its just older technology, If your or someone you know is familiar with them then I would recommend looking for a 83-85 L69 (8th VIN didget is a G for most years), They made L69's in 1986 but there very RARE. the LG4 is not a bad engine, its darned near bullet proof unless you run it out of oil, they made it from 82-87 But there the slowest of all V8's ( 8th VIN diget is an H).
I would not bother with a V6 or a I4, nothing against them other than there slow, and have little resale value. The 82-86 I4 is a novilty.... It would be a fun car to put a Big ole Honken Turbo on, as there is alot of room under the hood.
Whatever you get, were here to help, look out for the jerks and report them, have them banned, abide by the rules, and you will have alot of fun and learn tons. Start getting books and read about them how to make them perform etc...
John
1) The rear fenders around the wheels are usually one of the first places that they like to rust out. THere is a double lip on the fender and make sure its not filled in in places. If its smooth anywhere Its either starting to rust more more likely has some bondo.
2) Check the bottoms of the doors and behind the front fenders for rust,
3) Take a look underneeth to see what is there, Check the floor pans for rust holes...
4) Look in the engine compartment for any RUst, except for the exhaust manifolds there should be very little if any under there. I would avoid anything that has holes especially around the strut towers THe cross member for the engine usually has a rusted color, as I do not think it was ever painted from the factory.
5) Look at the suspension pieces, they tend to have some rust as they are in the weather, look for holes.
Engine:
1) I guess it would depend on what you want to do with the car. BUt a TPI, V8 will have the most value, AND it will be the fastest AND it should give you the best milage.
2) THerer are alot of 305 posing to be 350's if you want a 350 car then make sure the 8th diget in the VIN is an 8, 305's are F, G, H.
3) Reliability, I would probably avoid a CFI (cross-Fire) 82 & 83 only car, although they can be alot of fun I hear alot of horror stories and there is little support for them.
4) Personally I would never Ever purchase antying less than a TPI again... But I am familiar with the system
Transmission
1) You can get a 700R4 rebuilt for around 1000-1200, and thats with a shift kit & all... If you do it yourself its alot less, but alot of work and you have to be very **** on how you take it apart so that it goes back together correctly.
2) The 700r4 is a good trans, so is the World Class 5 speed made from 88-92, the early 83 - 87 Trans are good for the engine they are paired with, but not as strong.
--- NOTE --- You will never find a Factory 350 paired with a Factory 5 Speed transmission. NEVER EVER EVER. --- NOTE ---
Things I would avoid if I was new to 3rd gens...
I would probably avoid a car that had a bad gas tank fuel pump Although it seems simple to change its a Big job expecially for a first timer... On the up side its straight forward, and not difficult, it is justa royal PITA.
A 4bbl is not necessarily easier to work on, its just older technology, If your or someone you know is familiar with them then I would recommend looking for a 83-85 L69 (8th VIN didget is a G for most years), They made L69's in 1986 but there very RARE. the LG4 is not a bad engine, its darned near bullet proof unless you run it out of oil, they made it from 82-87 But there the slowest of all V8's ( 8th VIN diget is an H).
I would not bother with a V6 or a I4, nothing against them other than there slow, and have little resale value. The 82-86 I4 is a novilty.... It would be a fun car to put a Big ole Honken Turbo on, as there is alot of room under the hood.
Whatever you get, were here to help, look out for the jerks and report them, have them banned, abide by the rules, and you will have alot of fun and learn tons. Start getting books and read about them how to make them perform etc...
John
I would definately look for a tpi car, 85 is a good year for the 305tpi, 86 got the peanut cam and is I believe THE slowest 305tpi made. There were NO 350's in these cars until 87, and EVERY 350 put in them was TPI, so if someone tells you their car is an original carbeurated 350 the are full of it, didnt happen. I would look for a later 80's iroc or trans am/gta. They handle well, perform well, look good. The most desireable would be a 350, but if I had to pick a 305 auto vs. 305 5 speed I would definately go with the five speed. Also, if possible test drive the car too. The interior will most likely be worn out and raggedy unless it was really well taken care of, the interior in the cars isnt really their strongest point, the drivers seat usually tears and rips, and they like to rattle alot. If you can find one with really clean interior, it has probably been well taken care of. Also, I would look at the motor, pull the dipstick and check the oil, if the oil is like non existant, or its pitch black, it may be a sign it wasnt very well taken care of. If its nice and fresh and clean, that is probably a good sign. Also start it up and let it run, listen to it for any knocks or pings or anything like that, and see how well it starts up, and watch for smoke...it will probably blow a puff of smoke when started unless it has very very low miles or has had the valve seals replaced, dont let it scare you they all do it sooner or later, we just put valve seals in my brothers 85 Z28 this summer and it hasnt blown a puff of smoke since. It doesnt really hurt anything, just kind of annoying and can be an embarresment. Whatever you do, good luck and have fun! Let us know what you find and how you make out......
Supreme Member
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,739
Likes: 4
From: Beaufort South Carolina
Car: 1983 Camaro Z/28
Engine: LU5 305 CFI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: J65/G80/G92-3.23
I agree with everything above.If you have a good knowledgeable friend to go with you when you look is always a good idea.Another idea is to take it to a shop,one you're familar with possibly,or call around to check who will look over a car for you for a fee,usually $50 to $100.This is something you have to weigh against the asking price of the car.If the seller has any objections to you doing this then I would walk away.Definitly do a Carfax on anything you're looking at.Although not definitive it will give you an idea of the history of that particular vehicle.Sit down and think just what you would want;t-top or hardtop - or convertible if you're lucky to find one,auto or stick - what's listed above gives you your options.Good luck in your looking.
Member
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 231
Likes: 0
Car: 95 Camaro Z28
Engine: LT1
Transmission: 4L60E w/ shift kit
Axle/Gears: 3.23s
It's 82-92 and read this...
https://www.thirdgen.org/newdesign/tech/techdb.shtml
Do what I did, read it over untill you know all the technical stuff about each year.
I don't own one yet, but I've learned a lot about them just from reading this once in a while to refresh my memory.
https://www.thirdgen.org/newdesign/tech/techdb.shtml
Do what I did, read it over untill you know all the technical stuff about each year.
I don't own one yet, but I've learned a lot about them just from reading this once in a while to refresh my memory.
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 6,499
Likes: 31
From: Macon, GA
Car: 1992 Camaro RS
Engine: Vortec headed 355, xe262
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 9-bolt 3.70
Wow you guys are even more helpful than I was hoping...
Thanks a lot, I appreciate it.
And for the record, I'm 20.
Thanks a lot, I appreciate it.
And for the record, I'm 20.
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Having owned nearly a dozen thirdgens over the last 11 years, I can tell you honestly only one thing that really matters.
Buy the nicest one that you can afford that you really feel a connection with, and don't look at any others, don't try to make it somethign else, just enjoy it.
At this point in time the cars that can be had are an unknown quantity at best. Even the ones with low miles that have been treated well will need expensive repairs if driven daily. If you drive them hard (and if you didn't whats the point of buying a performance car?) they only get more expensive to maintain and improve.
Buy the nicest one that you can afford that you really feel a connection with, and don't look at any others, don't try to make it somethign else, just enjoy it.
At this point in time the cars that can be had are an unknown quantity at best. Even the ones with low miles that have been treated well will need expensive repairs if driven daily. If you drive them hard (and if you didn't whats the point of buying a performance car?) they only get more expensive to maintain and improve.
TGO Supporter
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 9,067
Likes: 1
From: Saskatoon, SK, Canada
Car: '83 Z28, '07 Charger SRT8
Engine: 454ci, 6.1 Hemi
Transmission: TH350, A5
Axle/Gears: 2.73 posi, 3.06 posi
When people tell you stuff here, don't always take it like they know what they are talking about. Not bashing anyone here, but lots of people don't know as much as others. Most of the time, the guys/girls with the higher post counts will know more than those with lower post counts.
Beware of users with like, 8 posts
Beware of users with like, 8 posts
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