Another "Should I buy it question" 88 Iroc-z
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Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,674
Likes: 3
From: Windsor Ontario
Car: 1987 Firebird Formula
Engine: 2004 LQ4
Transmission: T-5 WC
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Another "Should I buy it question" 88 Iroc-z
It's a real iroc, 305TPI, auto, rear drums. Interior is rough, little bit of rust here and there, the frame rails looked good, the floor looked good, T-tops. New exhaust, and other stuff. But it needs a fuel pump, the pass. window doesn't open, and the drivers seat electrical doesn't work. Is it worth 1500?
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Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,439
Likes: 3
From: Tucson, Arizona
Car: 1987 IROC-Z Camaro
Engine: L98 5.7L TPI
Transmission: 700-R4
Axle/Gears: 3.27 BW
Re: Another "Should I buy it question" 88 Iroc-z
C&C Tops or factory?
Weatherstripping is prolly bad. $349 for GM kit, $440 for C&C
Rear drums means you'll prolly want a new disc rear, new master cylinder, and different lines, rust is well... Rust.
Fuel pump is a six to eight hour job if done right. Drop the rear, the exhaust, the heatshield, the tank, then pull the pump, reverse order.
Window problems can be really easy, or suck a lot. No real middle ground here.
Troubleshooting electrical sucks. If it's not something obvious like a short or a blown fuse, it could take a long time to figure out what's wrong. And then there's fixing it.
I'd offer $1000, unless the interior is outstanding, which I might just pay the $1500.
Weatherstripping is prolly bad. $349 for GM kit, $440 for C&C
Rear drums means you'll prolly want a new disc rear, new master cylinder, and different lines, rust is well... Rust.
Fuel pump is a six to eight hour job if done right. Drop the rear, the exhaust, the heatshield, the tank, then pull the pump, reverse order.
Window problems can be really easy, or suck a lot. No real middle ground here.
Troubleshooting electrical sucks. If it's not something obvious like a short or a blown fuse, it could take a long time to figure out what's wrong. And then there's fixing it.
I'd offer $1000, unless the interior is outstanding, which I might just pay the $1500.
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Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 79
Likes: 0
From: Central Wis.
Car: 1985 Z28
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23
Re: Another "Should I buy it question" 88 Iroc-z
I know what you mean!!.I have seen a 1985 Z28 in town,black over gold.It has a 5-speed and looks super solid for 2300 OBO.I don't have the cash,but I do want a 5-speeder......
...................decisions,decisions........BILL
...................decisions,decisions........BILL Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 666
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From: Newport Beach, Ca.
Car: 1988 Iroc
Engine: 383 TPI
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: BW 9 bolt 3.27
Re: Another "Should I buy it question" 88 Iroc-z
Check the rust carefully. If only minor surface rust in limited areas maybe ok, otherwise forget it. If you want rust, I`ve got a `74 El Camino with new 300hp/350 GM crate motor, rebuilt driveline, suspension, steering etc.., drive anywhere anytime no problems.
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,674
Likes: 3
From: Windsor Ontario
Car: 1987 Firebird Formula
Engine: 2004 LQ4
Transmission: T-5 WC
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Re: Another "Should I buy it question" 88 Iroc-z
I'll call him and offer 1000$. I got the money, it's just a matter of "Will I have the time to do all the work". It would be a nice car to start with. They're factory t-tops, aswell, and the weatherstrip is solid. I was looking for something to make a street/strip project out of, and this looks like a valuable candidate. Plus there is a disc/posi rear end from an 87 Camaro for 200$ near me, which would be a nice addition. I'll call the guy and see if he'll take 1k.
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iTrader: (1)
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 666
Likes: 0
From: Newport Beach, Ca.
Car: 1988 Iroc
Engine: 383 TPI
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: BW 9 bolt 3.27
Re: Another "Should I buy it question" 88 Iroc-z
Keep in mind there are a lot of these cars out there. I spent a year looking for my `88 and paid 3k from the 3rd Cal. owner, always garaged, never spent a night outside and it shows. This car was in the family since new and still has mostly original parts. Be patient and have cash in hand when you find what you want. Body work is the most expensive thing to have done and the hardest to do right yourself.
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Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,674
Likes: 3
From: Windsor Ontario
Car: 1987 Firebird Formula
Engine: 2004 LQ4
Transmission: T-5 WC
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Re: Another "Should I buy it question" 88 Iroc-z
Well, in my city they're few and far between. If you're willing to make a sacrifice of doing bodywork, it's ok, but since we use salt on our roads, 85% of the cars get rusted out in 10 years or less. But this one has rust in some key spots, like the quarters, and rockers. The rest seems straight.
Re: Another "Should I buy it question" 88 Iroc-z
I would not right off the weatherstripping as good. My car is 20 years old and the weatherstripping looks great at 14k miles, but I can hear air with the windows up. The rubber has a lifespan and 20 years is beyond the factory design. If I remember correctly, 14 years is the outside for weatherstripping.
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