I am looking at purchasing a 1987 IROC-Z the RPO has no B4Z it has a 305 4bl Carb the VIN comes back as IROC on car report. So does that tell me it is a true IROC?

I looked and production of B4Z IROC Sport Equipment Package was only 3,452 for 1987.
I know in 1987 more than 3,452 IROCs were sold. So how can you tell if it is a TRUE IROC for sure? What makes an IROC an IROC?
Thanks

 

it has to have the B4z xode or no IROC. car reports/carfax/insurence companies will ALL able it as a iroc/z28. you can't determ model by vin. only codes. all vin tells is if its a V8 which shows why it would say it was a IROC.

 

Welcome to TGO. A search here will provide a ton of info (and your question is one that's asked frequently). For example, does the car have the correct badging inside and out, a Wonderbar, 16" single-line IROC wheels (the door placard should indicate 16's), black buckets under the headlights, etc.

Check this link for more:

http://www.iroc-z.com/

JamesC

 

Not sure I would reference iroc-z.com as a good source for info. Jim's website, www.iroczone.com, has more reliable and accurate information on identifying an IROC-Z. Look for the spotter's guide.

 

Interesting site. Jim does reference IROC-Z.com for historical data, though the link takes you to fbody.com. Odd.

JamesC

 

I couldn't find that reference. I think he used to have a partnership or ownership of iroc.fbody.com which is now fbody.com. iroc-z.com is very inaccurate in so many ways. If Jim is referring to iroc-z.com, then someone else wrote the article or he reconciled with the owner. If I remember correctly, iroc-z.com was built with information and pictures from iroc.fbody.com years ago. Oh well. Back on topic!

 

This page shows 38,889 cars made in 87 with the B4Z code:
http://www.camarosource.ca/php/camar...eels&year=1987

 

Very simple...match the VIN on the SPID sticker in the console glove box to the VIN plate on the dash, if they match then it is the original SPID. If the SPID has the Z28 and the B4Z RPO codes than it is an IROC. If it has Z28 but no B4Z than it is "only" a Z28. If it has neither than its a base model Sport Coupe (unless its an LT, but thats a whole nuther aminul )

85-87 most parts listings, insurance companies, hmm just about anything where you select car model does not differentiate between Z28 and IROC but lump them together

 

Ok I passed on the other 87 Camaro, after all your help.
Now can you give me any help on good price for a:
1987 IROC 5.7TPI 85000 miles all original but the new paint job fully loaded in great shape only problem is AC/heater fan stays on all the time. Will need two tires for the rear soon.

 

"Will need two tires for the rear soon"...don't they all? Actually this can be a sign of a rear suspension in need of attention...definately drive it first, if it makes a loud clunking sound when you switch from P to R and R to D or the rear breaks loose in a heartbeat its a worn torque arm bushing (cheap to fix, but you can make it sound like a big deal). Blower Fan is on all the time (im assuming you mean just when the ignition is on) could be an easy fix or a pain to chase down. Is this car on a lot? or a private seller? Why are they selling it? If you arent mechanically inclined or familiar with these cars get it inspected by a certified mechanic prior to purchase. Does your area have emissions? Make sure it passed its last inspection.

Seriously, since we don't know where you are located hard to say a price. Go to NADA and KBB do a search on your zip see what they are fetching for in your area (split the differance between their "retail" value and their "trade in" value", check the newspaper classifieds, ebay, auto trader publications in your area, and see what other people are buying similar cars for.

and ultimately whats your budget and whats it worth to you?

 

Ok the owner said the rearend shifts when driving. Is that what you are talking about? And what is the cause of that? What all will I need to fix it?

Thanks
Billy

 

Well the torque arm bushing being shot will cause the rear to "roll" under load, resulting in bad traction. Cheap part, less than $20 for good polyurethane replacement. Other things that could cause the rear end to "shift" or make a lot of noise would be sway bar endlinks, LCA bushings or panhard bar bushing being shot.

Look under the car unless you see something bent or twisted none of those parts are expensive.

Number ONE thing, DRIVE it. How does it feel, do you hear a lot of noises? If the owner won't let you test drive it, take a pass.