IMissMy86TA

Cant wait to see it finished! this looks great! Its nice to see a collectible brought back to life and like new

Motown

Very nice. A resto done right for once...

FormerL69

iTrader: (2)

The car is home. First -- a huge shout out to Steve and his crew at Body Works Custom. They did an amazing job and really took care of the car.

One thing I didn't realize is that the repro front fascia from Classic (OER) was not drilled for the nose emblem. No big deal. I also completely forgot that I had them install all new new weatherstripping from 1AAuto. They said that was not fun but it was manageable and the fit was good. Enjoy the pics.

FormerL69

iTrader: (2)

A few more...

82tarecaro

iTrader: (4)

Looking good Randy. I can't wait to see her all back together. I guess your work starts now.

FormerL69

iTrader: (2)

I finally got around to updating my web site tonight. I added pictures from the last few months. It's more or less the same stuff I've put here in the thread over the same timeframe, but there are a few that I didn't post here.

http://www.vosehome.net/82pacecar

FormerL69

iTrader: (2)

Hi all. It's been a very long time since I've posted or done any work on the car, but I am still out here. A couple of quick updates.

Last week I started working toward getting my engine re-assembled. I have had the block and heads back from the shop for some time but never finished cleaning the pistons. Last weekend I cleaned up pistons #3 and #4 and found both were scuffed. I checked #5 and the skirt also had some marks on it so the pistons are garbage. I'll be ordering some Keith Black hypereutectics this week.

Today I started work on refinishing and painting the interior panels. The originals were mostly junk due to sun fade so I am prepping and repainting replacements I've sourced from a local yard and from members here on TGO.

I had BAPS in PA custom match and mix the color for me using a piece of my original, unfaded interior plastic as a reference. Nobody had a GM code for the dark blue color used on the interior of the '82 pace car. Today was the big test and the color match BAPS did is perfect. In the attached picture of the kick panels, the passenger panel (the one on the left) is the one I painted. The driver is my unfaded original. If anyone knows anyone looking for the correct interior color for an '82 pace car -- BAPS has my color mix in their computer as the official color for the car.

I attached another pic of the lower, rear passenger panel -- the one I painted and the one that was in the car when I bought it. Guess which one is the original to the car? The plastics in '82 took a real beating from the sun.

The last picture is just the lower passenger interior panels after painting. One started out red and the other started out grey.

The replacement panels I have are not perfect (some nicks and scratches) but they are way, way better than my originals. I really wish someone would made OE replacements panels for our cars. I'd buy them in a second.

I hope to get the pistons this week and my goal is get the other interior panels finished up so I can start putting the inside of the car back together.

82tarecaro

iTrader: (4)

Baps does good work. They have my mix in their computer as well.

FormerL69

iTrader: (2)

BAPS was great.

I'm not sure on the overall durability of the work I did today. I cleaned the panels with dish soap, warm water and a bristle brush, let them dry completely, lightly wet-sanded with 1000 grit, cleaned them with Eastwood PrePaint cleaner, gave them a light hit of SEM adhesion promoter, waited 10 minutes after the SEM and then shot the paint in light coats. It looks fantastic, but I think the finish is going to be soft.

On one panel I did the scratch test with my fingernail and was able to leave a mark. Not sure what kind of hardness I should really be expecting, but I know over on the Interior forum people had mixed results getting the paint to stick. I feel I cleaned the panels pretty thoroughly. Maybe I was too light with the adhesion promoter. We'll see. It's dry out here in CO so think dry quick, so maybe the 10 minute wait between the SEM and the paint was too long.

82tarecaro

iTrader: (4)

Maybe it needs some time to cure. I can tell you that when I reassembled my car there were a few panels that got scratched. They scratched like an ordinary panel and while there was a mark, the paint did not come off. My sill plates have also gone through regular wear of getting in and out, and they also look fine. You did prep them properly though.

FormerL69

iTrader: (2)

Letting them cure is exactly what I thought. I'll recheck them in a few days.

chazman

iTrader: (4)

Looking good Randy! I wonder if that's the same shade of blue for my '83's interior plastics?

FormerL69

iTrader: (2)

Thanks Charlie. I have to admit -- the color really came out looking great. Not sure if the colors would be the same or not -- I'd be they are close. I assume the blue in your '83 is officially called "dark blue" but from looking at things like carpet samples I've seen in "dark blue" those tend have a little more grey to them. The blue on my panels is a pretty deep, navy blue -- almost black depending on the light view it in.

Does all that grass you picked up in Crete clash with the blue? jk ...

82RZ

A little trick I learned is to let them cure in Full Sunshine. Sort of like old school paint jobs that were cured in the booth using infrared lights.

Btw Randy, good choice on the KB pistons and be sure to install them per instructions.

Keep up the good work!..

Craig

dmccain

iTrader: (2)

Love your pace car! I used to have one right out of college. It had the CFI. I fought with it and finally put a 350w/carb. That CFI Pace Car is one of my favorites!

chazman

iTrader: (4)

I think you're right about the shade blue.


Oh...it clashes, alright.

FormerL69

iTrader: (2)

Hey everyone. No, I'm not dead.

It has been an incredibly busy summer between work and family. With fall just around the corner it's time to get back in gear.

I prepped and painted some more interior bits today -- the upper rear passenger panel, B-pillar roof bow, center console air vents, seat belt guides and the rear hatch deck panel are done. Well, I do have to paint the back side of the rear passenger panel (yes -- I am so **** that I am painting both sides of the panels) and I have to do the driver rear cargo panel with the locking storage box. I still need to find a replacement rear cargo panel. I ordered a few more cans of Deltron from BAPS last week.

I also ordered a set of PUI door panels from Classic last week along with some rocker emblems. I'll call 1AAuto this week to order carpet. My car has the carpeted rear cargo panels and I need to find a shop to apply the carpet to the interior panels I have it on good authority that trying to bend the carpet to fit is best left to the pros.

Hopefully in a couple of weeks I can start bolting the interior back together.

I still need to order new slugs for the engine and get some parts blasted. I have not been able to get the gasket material off the intake cover so I think blasting is the only way to do it. I have decided that I am procrastinating on the motor because I am worried about screwing up the engine assembly and having the thing blow up right out of the gate. I know it is not rocket science but at the same time I keep thinking I may not have the skill to do it right. The last thing I want to do is have the motor to explode because I missed something.

Anyway -- hopefully more updates coming more frequently in the coming months.

Looking at the calendar -- next month it will have been 2 1/2 years since I started taking the car apart. Time flies.

It's time to get things done and to get it on the road next summer.

Stay tuned.

82tarecaro

iTrader: (4)

It's not that hard covering the rear panels Randy. I used contact cement , and heated the backing of the carpet with a heat gun on low setting to soften it and pull it around the curves.
Yes - time flies. I had mine in pieces for over 2 years as well. It will get done!

FormerL69

iTrader: (2)

Yours looks awesome. Hopefully mine comes out the same.

When you did the curves, did you have to make any strange cuts in the carpet to make it conform or was it just a matter or heat, bend and glue? It sounds easy enough. I also assume were using stand carpet and not the stuff with the sound deadening backing on it (forget what ACC calls it). For that matter -- what carpet did you use?

FormerL69

iTrader: (2)

Yours looks awesome. Hopefully mine comes out the same.

When you did the curves, did you have to make any strange cuts in the carpet to make it conform or was it just a matter or heat, bend and glue? It sounds easy enough. I also assume were using stand carpet and not the stuff with the sound deadening backing on it (forget what ACC calls it). For that matter -- what carpet did you use?

82tarecaro

iTrader: (4)

I ordered the carpet for the floor with the mass back, but the extra yardage just had the poly back. When they form the carpet in their molds, they heat it to conform, so the poly back will hold the shape somewhat. I cut all my pieces larger then I needed. I then laid it on the panel after heating the backing with the heat gun and stretched it to conform to the shape. I then coated both sides with contact cement and let it tack up. Make sure you don't get it on the freshly painted panels where it shows. It will lift the paint. Then I placed it on the panel and pulled it tight and finished trimming after applying it to the panel.

FormerL69

iTrader: (2)

Ordered my carpet from 1AAuto today. Since I needed a non-standard color (navy blue instead of dark blue) Adam at 1A had to do a little extra legwork to get the order placed, but he got it done. Thanks to both Tony and Adam at 1AAuto. Great customer service from both of them.

I also got my extra paint from BAPS today. I will finish up my rear driver side rear interior panel tomorrow.

I am still looking for a good, replacement rear cargo panel. If anyone has a line on one please let me know. My car has the locking rear cover without a cargo light so I need that piece.

FormerL69

iTrader: (2)

Got the last interior panel painted today. Aside from the rear cargo panel I still need to locate, the plastics are done. The panels are not perfect, but they are far better than what I started with.

Once I get the carpet from 1A I'll throw that in and cut the pieces for the kick panels, center console and rear panels. At that point I can start putting the interior back together. Still need to decide what to do with the seats. The blue cloth on seats is not torn but is going to look badly faded against the new carpet and my freshly painted panels.

Tomorrow I'm going to reinstall the rear spoiler and winglets. the rear tail lights and the lower quarter panel rocker extensions. The rear wiper motor will also go back on. Time permitting I may pull the passenger finder and start re-installing the power antenna motor and wiring.

It actually feels pretty good to he thinking about how to put thing back together.

FormerL69

iTrader: (2)

A couple of before and after pics.

Man I wish someone would remake these panels ...

MoJoe

iTrader: (5)

Nice job on the paint!

gsmarcano

nice, good to see these old cars brought back to life instead of being thrown away, like a disposable lighter or something, everybody has to always have something brand new, so wasteful. My wife and I love our old Camaro hotrod.

KITT1983

iTrader: (3)

Awesome progress

FormerL69

iTrader: (2)

Holy back from the dead Batman!

And hello again to those of you still subscribed and following along.

I cannot believe it has been over 2 years since I last posted in this thread. And yes, it has honestly been over 2 years since I've turned a wrench on the car. Life has a funny way of getting in the way of car projects. Maybe 2018 will finally see me get this thing done.

I spent some the last few days looking at what to do about the scuffed pistons. I have decided to go with Speed Pro hypers. That change, of course, also means rebalancing the crank and I plan to talk to a machine shop Monday about getting that done. The guys over in the engine forum also have me thinking about a Renegade intake too.

The immediate "get started again" goal I have set myself through Jan/Feb is to get the motor put back together. I know it shouldn't take two months to bolt a 305 together, but there are family and work commitments that have to come first.

I hope to have more updates and make some progress this year. It's time to finish this thing up and start cruising with the tops off ...

z28cop

Ready for more pics of the progress.

83DaytonaTA_Ian

Totally loving the way this has progressed, even with a 2+ year hiatus! Lol

Own an 83 Daytona TA myself, also CFI. Really wanna see this thing finished myself. Standing by for updates!

83z28crossfire

chazman

iTrader: (4)

Are you saying only one injector fires?

FormerL69

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for sticking with me guys. I'll finish this eventually.

I have a bit of a dilemma on my hands regarding the engine and am not really sure how to proceed. Mind you, I'm not an engine builder but have built motors with my dad years ago. I learned enough from him to be dangerous. So if I say something stupid about the engine build, call it misplaced confidence.

My engine is/was 100% factory and I have multiple scuffed pistons which need be replaced. Replacing those means re-balancing the crank. Since all small blocks (except the 400 cid) are internally balanced, re-balancing my original factory bits with new pistons is neither a quick or economical option for me.

I talked with a local shop that specializes in SBCs some weeks ago about this. They were pretty honest that even though it could be done, it would be a pretty intensive and expensive effort.

I'm not sure it's worth that. More to the point, I'm not sure I'm willing to spend the money to go that far.

I am trying to decide if I keep the original block and go get a new crank, rods and pistons (which will still require the shop to balance everything - but at that point all the internals would be completely new). Or, do I just get a new crate motor outright.

A big part of me wants to keep the original block and go get all new internals since the car was built with that block. Balancing new parts which are intended to be balanced seems to make sense. At the same time, sourcing a crate motor and just dropping it in seems to make a lot of sense too.

FormerL69

iTrader: (2)

LOL. Thanks. I was thinking the other day that my new goal needs to be finishing the car by the time I turn 50. At the rate I'm going now, that'll be here before I know it!

chazman

iTrader: (4)

A dilemma. I need to chew on this and return with an opinion, Randy.

MoJoe

iTrader: (5)

Adding weight to the crank is expensive. Drilling into a counter weight to remove weight should be pretty cheap.

It also depends on how close the new pistons weigh vs factory. I don't know how many grams difference makes re-balance required.

Buying a complete rotating assembly will be somewhat "pre-balanced", but the same "how close do you want it" applies.
Are there 305 crank/rod/piston packages available?... that are worth a darn?

To save the cost of pistons and a crank balance, this is an expensive option.
To kick start the project, spending the engine assembly time on something else could be worth while.
Picking a crate engine opens a whole new can of worms... stay 305, or step up to 350? Will you be happy with a plain Jane low-perf smogger engine? I recently had create engine discussion with a friend for his 71 Chevelle... In the Chevy offerings; L31 @ $2100? Or SP350/357 @ $3300 for long block. $4350 for the deluxe version is overkill for a distributor and wires... since I figure you are sticking with the CrossFire.
Does the Renegade manifold have a Vortec version?

scottmoyer

We're in the same boat. You've probably already seen my comments that I will be replacing the engine and trans. The pace car is a great car, but due to the fact that they only have 145hp or 165hp means that they don't carry much value. I think the car would be more fun to drive and enjoy if you leave it looking stock, but drop a new engine/trans in the car.

And it would be more valuable to you or the next buyer if it actually performed!

1MeanZ

iTrader: (9)

I'm with MoJoe here. I fail to understand why re-balancing is such a conundrum. Replacement pistons should weigh close to the stockers, it's not like you're running stroker pistons with a different compression height, or your changing to forged pistons or something.

I'd get a second opinion from a reputable shop if you can. I've had two 383s balanced and it's never been a big deal. Don't let a few hundred bucks be the reason you don't stick with the original engine, if originality is your goal.

Otherwise get a ZZ6 crate engine, put a renegade crossfire setup on it and control it with the EBL.

Scott, I got your PM and haven't forgotten about you, I'm formulating a response.

chazman

iTrader: (4)

I've thought about it, Randy. Nothing is easier than dropping in a crate motor topped with your Crossfire. But will that make you happy?

You've gone through a lot to retain originality on this car. I'd keep the factory block. Between the Renegade, exhaust and other tweaking, you will get it to run stronger than the stock, but still keep the engine it was born with.

82tarecaro

iTrader: (4)

I have thought about stepping up to a 350 or a 383 in my Crossfire and retaining the original engine just in case. Since you have the engine apart, you should take advantage of that and get a few more cubic inches. You can make it look original and only you would know. A Renegade would make it all work with larger injectors and give the car a much needed boost in power. Don't go with a Targetmaster replacement though. Get something a little better, with more compression.

82tarecaro

iTrader: (4)

No Vortec Renegade, unfortunately.

yaj15

iTrader: (3)

What kind of power did the stock 350 crossfire engines make in the C4 corvettes?

Would it be more cost effective to find one of those engines in good shape or use a crate motor?

8t2 z-chev

'82-200 HP/285TQ
'83/84-205/290,
the small increase with the later engine is mostly a serpentine belt and electric fan,though earlier '82 intakes don't have the little balance ports that the later ones do.In stock form,these 'vettes are a bit lame,but a proper manifold porting and a couple other mods will wake them up to quite decent performance For the pace car situation,I say proceed with rebuild of original 305,or swap in a period correct 350 for a "what could have been"Port the manifold and a couple other small mods in either case

1MeanZ

iTrader: (9)

if you're going to spend the money, just go all the way. I'll say it again. ZZ6, Renegade, EBL. Bazinga.

you can paint a ZZ6 blue just like you can paint an iron headed 305 blue... the only give away that it's not stock would be the Dyno Don headers you should be using.

EDIT: zz6 has vortec intake pattern. Any aluminum headed small block crate motor with a roller cam will do. I just think 350-400hp in a stock looking CFI car would be a riot.

SteelDirigible

iTrader: (2)

Very cool build and car. Makes me feel bad for altering my car.

83z28crossfire

gheatly

iTrader: (2)

Well, I went through the same discussion with myself about what to do with my CFI Z-28. It's not a Recaro T/A or a pace car, but I think the CFI induction system it is very unique and super cool. I wanted performance and decided to keep the CFI and do what I could. An LS conversion would be awesome, but then the car would lose what makes it special. Too many people ditched the system and you rarely see them anymore. I am one of two CFI cars in the North Texas Third Gen Club.

You can see my mods in my signature. You could probably go a couple of steps bigger on the cam, but have to be careful not to max the Vette injectors out. IIRC, after those, you have the 454 injectors, but people had issues at low RPM with those. Hey, you could go with one of those Dart small block 427s!

FormerL69

iTrader: (2)

Hello everyone ... after a brief 2 year, 10 month and 10 day break (1,047 days since my last post here, to be exact) - I'm back.

Yes - believe it or not, my pace car project is still in the garage and I have not abandoned it. I find myself with a lot more free time than I have had in a long while so I finally have time to get back to my Camaro. I spent time Saturday taking an inventory of all the bits and pieces I bought and collected over the last several years (and which have been sitting in my basement). It felt good to get that done and to assess where I left off.

Today, the man in the brown truck dropped off new motor mounts, a new trans mount and 8 shiny new pistons from Summit Racing. I need to find a local shop that deals with press fit pins who can install them for me. I called a local race shop on Friday but they didn't deal with pressed pins. I talked to another engine shop who said they'd have their small block guy call me back but he hasn't called me so far. I have a few others to check with tomorrow. My inventory also revealed that I forgot to order a new rear main seal when I ordered the other stuff for the engine - so that's new in my parts box as well.

I had the block done years ago and have to unbag and make sure things are clean. It's been quietly sitting on the stand waiting for some attention for too long now. The cylinder bores were well oiled to keep them from getting crusty but I need to recheck and reclean the oil passages, etc. just to be safe. I may need to wait until the weather warms up a little bit more to do that because my garage isn't heated.

I did put some exterior bits back on. I re-installed the side spoiler extensions but need to epoxy one of the actual studs in the deck spoiler itself. One came loose and pulls right out of the hole so I can't tighten it down. I guess after almost 40 years it had enough. I'll get the rest of the rear fascia bolts put back in and re-install the tail lights after I polish them up a little bit. I'll also get the motor mounts bolted on.

Getting the engine bolted together and getting the CFI put back on in the next few weeks is my first goal ...

82tarecaro

iTrader: (4)

Glad to hear you are back at it.

FormerL69

iTrader: (2)

Spent a few hours under the car this afternoon getting the motor mounts out. Well, one of the motor mounts anyway. I decided to do this without dropping the LCAs because the book says it can be done. Also, I've seen a spring come loose and shoot across a garage (and fortunately miss everything in its path). So even with a compressor and chain to drop the LCAs the "right" way I'd figured it was still safer not drop the control arms. If push comes to shove I will do that, but it's a last resort.

The driver side mount came out easy but the upper, forward bolt on the passenger side is giving me fits. I probably spent two hours trying various combinations of extensions, wobbles, etc. and could not figure out the right path to get a socket securely on the nut. I came really close a few times but no dice. I am going to pick up a 15mm flex socket and see if that's the magic I'm missing. I've named this the "Cracker Barrel" bolt because you can see it easily enough but it's impossible to get to. Most Cracker Barrel's I've been to can be plainly seen from a highway but then you end up taking weird frontage roads to get to them. Sure. That needed explaining.

I talked to my shop yesterday and will drop off my rods and new pistons sometime next week. I have some family commitments this weekend so nothing more on the car until sometime next week.