My doors are just like everyone else and I am wondering what solutions have been devised to resolve these problems. I have seen some of them and have employed a few, but maybe their are others that exist that I am unaware of. So the main complaints i've seen and I have about the doors are

-Door Sagging
(I know http://www.top-downsolutions.com offers a solution )

- Door Creaks

- Door sounds hollow - no insulation or padding

- Door seals are old and falling off

- top of the door panel (window seals perhaps) are dry and cracking

- Window motors are so slow its embarassing

- power locks require hitting the button a few times for them to unlock fully

-Window is off track (still goes up and down, however one of the guide wheels broke when my windows was busted, and i've never found a replacement )

- Window velvet brushes - old and worn


Did I miss anything? Can anyone offer up what solutions they know exist for these problems ? Post up anything you know, and perhaps this can be a sticky.

 

This just about covers it all https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/body...servation.html

 

The slow window going up and down, in most cases can be resolved by either silicone spraying the old weatherstrip or replacing it with new seals.

Old seals will slow down the window. You said yours is actually off track,I'd fix that first and white grease the mechanism so the window glides easier.

 

And Dynamat the door- do the inside of the outer skin(good luck in not cutting your hands up reaching in through the door openings with the Dynamat!) and the outside of the inner skin.
My doors sounded like a Lexus' after I insulated them- and the A/C worked SO MUCH better with the added insulation making the car a lot cooler...

HOWEVER, now that my neighbor backed into my driver's door and crumpled it, I HAVE TO START ALL OVER AGAIN WITH A REPLACEMENT FROM A JUNKER!!

So, I will be swapping over the upper hinge greaseable bushings that I got for the original door from Top Down and replacing the lower hinge bushings, pin and detent spring and roller/pin assembly, also from Top Down (thanks Lon)!

 

Yes Dynamat or similar will solve the hollow door problem. I used Raammat. Door sounds solid now. Here are some pics.

Door with Raammat only on door skin. I used two layers on the door skin. The only real place to get you arms in there is the big hole on the left. You will cut up your arms. If you take out the power window motors you will have more room. I didn't.


Door now with Raammat on the door skeleton also. I used one layer here.


Door with 1/8" ensolite foam on top of Raammat, one layer.

 

How much weight does the matting like that add? Im looking into doin it to my doors but I dont want them to weigh too much more they already feel like brick walls lol im not worried about weight for racing or anything i just wanna make sure it wont weigh too much

 

Not to worry.

JamesC

 

Now thats what I'm talking about, a full on solution! (sorta. It seems like it would be a good idea to make sure I never need to pull off the door again, but I imagine it closes like a dream. You have got to take videos of your door closing and put that on youtube.


On a side note, is the "metal to metal" striker on my door what causes me to need to slam the door hard in order to get it closed ?

 

Most likely your problem with closing the door is your hinge-pin bushings. They are easy/cheap to repair.
Nice job 87350IROC!!

 

Test if your hinges need to be repaired by having someone grab hold of the bottom of the opened door and lift and release it while you closely inspect the upper and lower hinge pins for movement. Also take a look at the lower detent pin and bushing and the detent bar as you close the door. If it jumps or creaks the pin and roller needs to be replaced. Upper hinge repair kits, lower detent pin & rollers and all the tools you'll need are available from my web site. ---->

Lon Salgren

 

Yeah I need to do the hinges too. So for the moment the doors still don't close like they should. However with the Raammat they are quieter and and if you tap on the door skin they no longer sound thin and hollow.

 

Raam Audio lists the Raammat at .35 lb/sqft. So the two roles I'm adding is 44lbs.