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Steering Wheel Bearing Replacment

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Old Jan 27, 2010 | 09:16 PM
  #1  
mjsmikey's Avatar
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From: Orlando, Florida
Car: 89 Firebird Formula **MODIFIED**
Engine: 330 HP Crate 350
Transmission: 700R4 with Shift Kit
Steering Wheel Bearing Replacment

I fixed the tilting/ loose tooth steering wheel problem the other day and found that I have a bad bearing on the Steering Shaft. It is separated in two parts, inner and outer. I want to replace it but I cannot seem to find the correct information on what bearing to buy?

Can somone provide this information?

Thanks,

Mike
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Old Jan 27, 2010 | 10:40 PM
  #2  
Ward's Avatar
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From: Rowlett, TX
Car: 1988 GTA
Engine: 5.0 TPI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 9 Bolt, 3.45
Re: Steering Wheel Bearing Replacment

It's normal for the outer "shell" part of the bearing to come off. The horn spring holds it in place.
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Old Jan 30, 2010 | 10:48 AM
  #3  
mjsmikey's Avatar
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From: Orlando, Florida
Car: 89 Firebird Formula **MODIFIED**
Engine: 330 HP Crate 350
Transmission: 700R4 with Shift Kit
Re: Steering Wheel Bearing Replacment

hum... that would make sense, except my steering wheel is still somewhat loose. In comparison to other cars (Newer) the amount of play is huge. I tried to use the inner spring to force in the inner bearing race , but the spring or the spring parts wer not large enough in diameter to push the bearing to the place it belongs. I'm not sure if the outer race moved, or if the bearing is broke. either way I need a new one and I can't seem to find the replacement number.
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Old Jan 30, 2010 | 08:20 PM
  #4  
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From: 62656
Car: 1991 S10 pickup 2700lbs
Engine: 4.3L Z TBI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.08 7.625"
Re: Steering Wheel Bearing Replacment

still have the steering wheel lock plate under the steering wheel?


i have found that many ppl dont like to replace it when servicing a column, and sometimes on some columns it wil cause this looseness of the upper shaft if its not used.

mostly the case on FWD cars, but sometimes RWD also.


or do you mean the wheel is loose from the shaft., slop in the shaft splines? never seen it happen burt its possible especially if its not a stock steering wheel.


otherwise, its either loose tilt mechanism screws,

or its not enough preload on the upper bearings.

one or the other.
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Old Jan 31, 2010 | 02:57 PM
  #5  
mjsmikey's Avatar
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From: Orlando, Florida
Car: 89 Firebird Formula **MODIFIED**
Engine: 330 HP Crate 350
Transmission: 700R4 with Shift Kit
Re: Steering Wheel Bearing Replacment

Actually the two halfs of the bearing no longer line up. The inner race doesn't seat correctly against the outer race ***** once the assembly is completely put together. I tried to force the inner bearing race inward durring the re-assembly process of the steering column, but everytime I pushed the lock plate back in to put on the snap ring, the center shaft would go in about a tenth of an inch causing a gap between the inner and outer race. I made a piece to fill the gap so the spring would force the inner bearing in place, however It still didn't work quite right because the bearing is still worn out. I was hoping that someone knew the replacement number so next time I dissasemble the column I can change the bearing which should get rid of this play.
Its not really a big deal as the whole thing is still pretty good, but the age of the stearing column is really starting to show with the loose bearing.
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Old Jan 31, 2010 | 10:52 PM
  #6  
Norwood's Avatar
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From: Munford, TN
Car: 89 z
Engine: Chevy 383
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt 3.73
Re: Steering Wheel Bearing Replacment

Your best bet is probably the junk yard. There is a special tool to push that snap ring down into its groove to hold down the retainer plate. That spring is a beeotch without it. Also remember that plate is keyed so it only goes on one way. I once sort of deformed that bearing cage one time in a fit of anger trying to get that plate down. I was able to massage it back into shape and put it in place with a tool I made out of 1/2" pipe. Took a total of 5 seconds with the tool. You need three 6" pieces of 1/2" pipe nipples, and one 1/2" pipe tee. Hand thread all three nipples in the tee. The two pipes on top of the tee are the handles. The one pipe pointing down goes over the splined shaft and will push the retainer ring down into its groove. The trick is you need to get everything lined up as close as you can before you use the tool. Like stated earlier when you push down, the shaft will also move down a little which makes the bearing come out of position. You want to pull up on the splined shaft with one hand while pushing the plate and ring down as far as you can with the other and without disturbing anything, slide the tool down to the ring. Get over the tool as much as possible and quickly and very firmly push the handles down and OILA...bobs your uncle. go get a beer
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Old May 25, 2010 | 08:55 PM
  #7  
POP6482's Avatar
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From: NE Pa
Car: 1989 Iroc-Z Convertible
Engine: 6.0 LQ4 LSX
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: Moser 12 bolt w/4.11s
Re: Steering Wheel Bearing Replacment

mjsmikey....how did you make out with replacing the bearing? Iran into the same problem today trying to fix the loose column. Noticed that my bearings were shot also. Did you go to the junkyard or find a replacement somewhere else. Let me know. I've been searching everywhere online and noone seems to have it.
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Old May 26, 2010 | 10:15 PM
  #8  
mjsmikey's Avatar
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From: Orlando, Florida
Car: 89 Firebird Formula **MODIFIED**
Engine: 330 HP Crate 350
Transmission: 700R4 with Shift Kit
Re: Steering Wheel Bearing Replacment

Never found a bearing, the trick, however is to push the outer race closer to the steering wheel. As it turns out the fitment to the housing wears out, so your best bet it to just fill the gap with something effectively pushing the race toward the wheel. Glue works well, if you use the correct type.
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