how do i remove and re install my upper door panel rails? i ordered new door panels and i need to know how to properly reuse the ones i have.

if you have done this please post pics!!

thanks

 

You need to remove the sheet nuts from the plastic studs on the back side (they're installed upside down and a PITA to remove), then the top cap separates easily from the door panel. Some have had luck using a pair of pliers to remove the nuts, it took me about an hour for one door. For replacing them, they'll just push onto the studs. And be very careful when removing the sheet nuts so as not to break the plastic studs they're secured to.

The best pictures I have are of the repair I did to mine prior to replacing the panels. Here you see the sheet nuts on top of some washers I epoxied to the door panels to reinforce the holes in the cardboard.

 

alright sound good and thank for the pics also very informative

any ideas of how i can get the plastic screws in the door panel behind the cardboard that push into the door?

 

How did you repair them?

 

im assuming your talking about the white ribbed push clips. those can be had at most part stores. i know at super chevy there was this vendor that had dang near every clip you could think of, wish i could find thir card.

 

For the most part when you try to remove the sheet nuts from the plastic studs on the back side of the upper door panel rail you will break some of the 7 per panel. I broke two on one rail and five on the other. A new set will set you back at least $125 not including time and shipping.
As stated above, these nuts are installed upside down and a PITA to remove, then the top cap separates easily from the door panel. Some have had luck using a pair of pliers to remove the nuts, but you most likely break some...don't dispair. I developed a repair for this that I can do for anyone at a reasonable price (hey I gotta pay for gas too). So if you are interested, send me an email and we can work something out. One benefit of my repair is that you can remove and install the panel without repeating the repair, so future panel replacement is easy.

Scott

 

I'm trying to repair those top rail studs too. Broke two on my new rail and haven't started the other side. I need to figure something out. Maybe epoxy some bolts to the rails and use some nuts and washers. Can't figure it all out yet. Any other ideas?

 

Anybody have any ideas? I went and got some bolts, nuts, and washers but i still need to get some type of glue to make them stay permanently. I'm so close to finishing my door panels and I need this done!

 

i'd be curious as to how i can fix these broken studs too. the best idea i've thought of so far (haven't tried it though) is to just use small rivets in place of the studs, but then you'll see them on your door trim. i guess you could paint the rivet head black or something. anyone else have another idea?

 

You know, I was thinking the same thing. I know the one Fox Body I have been in had screws in the interior trim and I hate to say it but it is much more stable feeling and sounding and it doesn't really look bad at all.

 

another idea is to use a small cap head bolt - with a head that is rounded and smooth. then you can just use a washer and nut on the back. that would probably secure the top trim pretty well and not look too bad.

 

I really would like to design a reinforcement plate for that upper area on the panel because they do break as soon as you take off the panel.

 

how would you attach the bolt to the rail? some plastic epoxy? I don't know which to use.

 

i don't think many of sills plastic are still in perfect shape . myself , i have used a hot glue gun for many door panel repairs . has worked for me . just use a good glue stick . good luck .

 

I would think something hot glue like this guy said because if you ever have to take them off, you have a less permanent bond which could easily be replaced/broken/replaced.

 

I figured it out. I used Super Glues Single Use Quick Set Epoxy. And it is pretty strong stuff. I had gotten some other glues but they didn't work.



Close up. Excuse the black glue on the bolt. It was some other glue that didn't work.



I know I need to trim the bolt still but this was just a trial and fit. I ground down what was left of the old, broken plastic nipple to where I could still position the bolt to be in the same direction as the old plastic. And boy is it strong!!

 

sweet!

 

Well what about the door panel? Is your cardboard ripped where the bolt sits like mine is?

 

Mine was so I cut out some cardboard poster board parts and put it where the part had ripped out. I just used Tacky Glue to secure it, then I glass resined all the cardboard.

 

I had always debated about what was the best fix for this. I always came back to replacing the plastic pins with screws. I played with the idea of putting the screws in and then using a high end black vinyl to "recover" them to cover the screw heads. A bit of padding and the heads would not show thru the vinyl. Though you would have to deal with removing and reinstalling the dew wipes then...

So please let us know how the glue idea holds up! I'm curious if it will hold up over time. My sills actually started to turn up on the ends and that is why I wanted a stronger fix!

 

So far its still doing good. I have even taken it on and off a couple times to test it out. One time it was stuck really good when I was trying to take it off and it still didn't break.

I need to measure how much of the bolt I have attached to the rails and repeat this on the passenger side.

Close up of the door panel attached to the rail and tightened down with a ratchet. Nothing broken yet!



A picture of the finished product. I think I'm going to cry.

 

looks good

 

Okay I forgot to post how much bolt I left on. I have a measurement of 0.7" from the head of the bolt to the end without any clearance issues. You could probably go shorter if you wanted but my door panel is pretty thick.

And yes, I glued the head down to the panel. That was after I ground the old plastic tips smooth to the rest of the panel. It's way easier to find out where the bolts go if you mark it with a silver marker or white out then cover the spot in epoxy. I next dipped the head of the bolt into a mixture of epoxy to get the glue covering the whole head and then stuck it to the epoxy on the panel.

Just finished my second door panel and tightened them down without problems. Best of luck.

 

I am trying 3/8 marine mdf and making my own.... and currently putting the screws behind the material... see how that is gonna come out.

 

3/8 is really thick for a door panel - plus it will be pretty heavy. if you do go this route, you'll have to make the panels slightly smaller than the originals or else the door won't close right. the panel will hit the interior plastic trim in the door jamb.