When I pulled my carpet I noticed several of the plugs had a little surface rust around them and loose. I took them out to treat the metal around the holes, while out I soaked them to disolve the glue off of them. Now putting them back in theres no seal at all. Any ideas on how to seal them in? I thought about putting rtv around them and then maybe spraying a rubberized under coating over the hole thing to seal it.

 

windshield adhesive

 

The correct produce is called automotive seam sealer available @ any auto supply store that sells refinish supplies it comes in cans or tubes for caulking guns

 

I have used a lot of seam sealer and I can tell you, windshield adhevise is much tougher and much easier to apply and get a clean result.

 

I am going to replace the seam sealer in my interior- I was going to use Eastwood's brushable sealer, but would you recommend the windshield urathane stuff for all the seams?

 

You can weld the drain plugs in the floor shut, you don't need to replace the plug.

 

Yes, I recomment that stuff for all the seams, I removed all the brittle factory sealer and used the black urethane stuff, much cleaner to work with too.

 

Can you smooth it out with a little acetone on the old finger? I am a stickler for detail, even when it is under the carpet!! LOL!

 

Is that horrible mess thats in the engine bay/firewall and under the carpet in the inside seam sealer? I dont know about other people cars, but mine look like it was applied by a 3yr old. I understand its on a assembly line but there is alot of spots were its a 4inch glob, and others were its paper thin. I dont know maybe im being picky since thats what I do, caulking. I cut it down and smoothed it over with some good stuff we use at work. I used the same stuff to seal the plugs.

 

I use only body seam sealer I use 3M http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3...glCJ8NZRWH8Jbl you can paint over it and it will stick unlike windshield adhevise

 

I used something similar to what was used originally : tar in roll (Sika Multseal). It's made to seal roofs, ducts,...
It's thinner than the original stuff, but two layers will do the job.
I sticks very well and is soft enough to fit the lines of the floor.

Previously, I have stripped the floor completely and applied POR15, plus a coat of zinc paint, cleaned the drain plugs, POR15 and aluminium/zinc based paint.

 

I dont mean to steal the thread, but are the floor drains all that necissary? I found one rust hole in my floor and its right next to the rear passenger floor drain. I suppose it wouldnt be hard to fab the metal so that the floor plug would fit in there but if i can just weld some flat stock in its place that would be much easier. What are those drains intended purpose? The seam sealer they used in that area is a pain in the **** to remove, and it seems that the drain actually held in salt making that spot rust out.

 

The drains are there for drainage during the manufacturing process- the unibody is dipped in a primer-like solution and as it is lifted out of the tank, the drains let all the fluid run out. If you have the inclination, just weld them up...

 

I read some other threads and am welding up the plug.

 

Ha ha listen to Twin_Turbo about the seam sealer he really did reseal his entire car. Look at his threads his car is off the chart in the quality dept.